Q8 RC

if any one got a mayhem can you please tell me how it is and is there any problems and how is the engine servos and radio and handeling i am talking about the RTR thanx

Bader

KUWAIT

oldchopdoc

I bought a Pro, but put the same radio in it that comes with the RTR. It's no slouch! Out performs everyhting else I own. The RTR has a .26 engine so if you plan to race you might consider the Pro with a .21. Most tracks won't let you run the .26 in a 1/8th buggy class from what I hear. I love the car, but don't have any other buggies to compair it to...Only M.T.s

Hope this helps...I'd buy it again without a second thought!!!

HPIDUDE

the RTR comes with a XR3i and you said you have a XS3

MandK

how is the pbs on the mayhem? i'm a fan of c-hub but might consider buying one

oldchopdoc

HPIDUDE is right. I don't have the same radio or the same receiver for that matter. The XS3 comes with the same servos that are in the RRT kit though, but I'm not sure if the different receiver in the car will make it react any different. Scratch what I said, but I still like the car anyway.

HPIDUDE

im always right....jk

oldchopdoc

MandK,

Call me stupid[sm=spinnyeyes.gif] but I've never ran c-hubs, only pbs. Couldn't tell you one way or the other. The XB8 has 'em. I wanna see that car!

HPIDUDE

thats one sweet machine, the worlds are gonna be interesting because the test track that XRay used is the one where the worlds are gonna be

oldchopdoc

Q8 RC

Nurch just got a new Mayhem that I think is RTR. He's starting a thread called "Sportwerks Mayhem Shout." He might be able to give you more info on it as far as comparing it to other buggies.

nurch

Well, I am glad someone beat me to making a Shout for the Sportwerks Mayham buggy, but with a slightly different topic!

Ok, I got my buggy, and I did some modifications. I unfortunately got the RTR version, with the smaller opening at the flywheel (so now, when I change the engine, I gotta get a pullstart version) where bumpboxes will not work. Unless I enlarge the gap on the chassis or if the Pro version of the Mayham chassis has a bigger hole, please someone post a picture. I am going to be posting pictures tomorrow and even a video of it in action. I cant promise when the video will be up since I am on a dial-up (until comcast gets my cable internet fixed).

Another thing I noticed was the diffs; fluid not grease! I was highly impressed and astounded by the quality of using differential fluid instead of grease found on other RTR vehicles, mainly with OFNA and GS. However, I am going to change the fluid vescosities to the vescosities I stuck on all my buggies that gave me the traction and response I am acustomed to: 7000 front, 10K center, 3000 rear. Thick huh? But somehow it is what works at my track. I have to go with what works.

The shocks seemed unresponsive when I did the drop test and later a 5ft jump. It bottomed out all the time. I stuck on some pre-load, like the one in RC Driver's magazine, but my buggy still bottomed out. I listened to the shocks closely while I was compressing the shocks and heard what sounded like air in the shock bodies. I removed the front right shock from the buggy and looked in. The shock body was 3/4 of the way full. Guess I am going to give myself a little project tomorrow morning (going to use 35WT all around) when I finish the breaking in of my buggy. On an added note, I noticed the shock bodies were threaded yet that ring screw that goes on the shock bodies was not included. I was bummed and saw no purpose to have a threaded shock body if that ring screw is not there to make the pre-load adjustments.

The muffler on the Mayham seemed quite silent compared to other RTR buggies' pipes (who remembers the deafening sound from the OFNA GT LX's pipe???). It provided quite a bit of bottom end, and really make the buggy dip when you punch the throttle. Truly astonishing.

The body design of the buggy looks MUCH better in person than in pictures. Pictures do not do it justice. I am definitely keeping that body. I am going to order another Mayham body since the one that comes with the RTR is pre-painted. [&o] However, once the stickers were applied, it looked lively, especially the RC Driver stickers that Greg Vogel sent me and the ones I kept after my visit to Dave Baker's house for an article.

The JR XR3i FM (instead of AM radioes that other brand names come with, except GS) radio is definitely an added plus. However, I am a huge Futaba fan. But I think I will go back to JR again on this buggy! I cant promise that it will stay on there after I get the new Futaba FM radio, 3PM. I did change the steering servo to a Hitec 645 MG (133 oz, .2 sec @ 6.0v) and changed the throttle servo to the Z590M that was once the steering servo. I have to say, I had to adjust my brakes to give more play since the buggy stopped way too hard for me. I like the slight ABS effect when I power slide in turns.

The shock towers are nice and thick!!! I like that added sense of security!

The chassis braces on the front and rear are aluminum. But I don't like the way they are installed. I know that if I were to get into a crash, I am going to destroy the plastic mounts on the bulkhead for the braces. On that same note, the plastic base will surely follow suite.

The center drive shafts would have been more appealing if they were CVDs. They have too much slop in them. I had to add o-ring seals inside the drive shaft cups to end that horrendous slop. However, despite the slop, it handled like a dream and throttle response on the buggy's part was exceptional. Kudos there! However, I will call up Horizon and place an order for center CVDs.

The radio tray is aluminum. Nough said. However, I cannot say much for the radio plate posts. They were plastic!!! But then again, I guess this is because it was an RTR. Definitely got to get rid of those.

I felt that the engine sat too high, and perhaps that may have been another reason why the flywheel did not stick out enough to make contact with my startbox's wheel. Are the engine mounts on the Pro version lower so that the flywheel protrudes out?? Or is the flywheel just larger??

The added fuel filter was a great touch!!! Kudos there as well!!

The versatility of the vehicle and its endless amounts of adjustments (save for the rear since I cannot get it to toe-in for the life of me!!) are an added plus, especially for an RTR version. GREAT feature to have! The RTR version is definitely a buggy an beginner can start and grow up with. Magnificent.

The engine on this bad boy that I got is a .26. I must say, it is supreme. Scary even. But it has to go. It is not legal at my track. I am going to stick in a OFNA Hyper 8. That engine has comparable power to the .26, though it is bored as a .21. Definitely the first thing I will do after I have fun burning the living poop out of this engine. However, I think this Dynamite engine is sheer quality and built for the rugged break-in procedure I am enduring on it. It stays true to the cliche "Takes a lickin and keeps on tickin!" Really nice!

The wider stance of this buggy is really awesome. It really does improve cornering at higher speeds, and is surely stable.

The pre-glued tires were definitely an added plus, and the tire spokes were PERFECT for my track conditions. Excellent!!

I have to say, as hard as I been driving this buggy, I give it a very thorough cleaning. It deserves it. Please don't be shocked when you look at the pictures and see it looks like it just got out of the box. I am a real Nazi when it comes to cleaning a good buggy! Plus my power washer cleans the entire buggy in a second. I use 100% denatured alcohol now. Gone is the usage of water anymore.

This buggy has surely withstood the harsh driving I have christened it with. I even hit one of the pit tables when I punched the throttle too hard. It slammed right into one of the table's legs. I rushed over to the buggy to see what damage it could have sustained. NONE!!! AMAZING!!! I am glad no one was at the table or near that table I slammed into. I do feel bad for pulling such a dim-witted stunt like that. Won't be doing that again.

If anyone feels a little skepticle about trying out a new company and its product, I can say that you can rest assured on the Sportwerks buggy. This buggy is built to be raced hard!! I give my huge respect to Sportwerks. Bravo. I have even cancelled my pre-order for the XB8 buggy. I am definitely sticking with this buggy.

addendum: If you wish to see what I look like, I was in RC Driver's magazine (Issue 6, June 2004, Pages 114 and 116. My name is Harry Nazarian).

oldchopdoc

Nurch,

Mine (my son's) is a Pro and the flywheel sounds like it's in the same place as yours. I used a Dynamite Ready Start Universal box and modified the connections to work with a 12 volt lead-acid battery that fits inside it. Put some banana plugs on the side to charge it and it worked out pretty nice. I did have to mark the box and drill two new holes so the posts would line up with the chassis. The chassis has one of the smallest slots I've seen, but it still works fine. Took some doing and a lot of cussing though! It would be a problem for marshalls to restart though, unless they had your box handy.

The starter wheel has to stick up into the chassis on ours.

My youngest son, "Mom, Dad said the D word!"

Doug

oldchopdoc

Nurch,

Which carb insert did you run in it?

Doug

nurch

I used the stock insert that came with the engine. I haven't tried the other inserts yet since I had such a hard time trying to remove the bloody air filter. I think I may have damaged it since the blue ring around the carb is white (fatigued). I bought a motor saver filter just in case this air filter does break.

By the way, do you have CVD center shafts (drive shafts) on your pro? I am curious. Because I am in the midst of making this car a genuine pro. The plastic radio posts plus regular dog bone shaft drives do not cut it for me.

oldchopdoc

Yah, it came with all CVDs.

I'm going check out the shocks on this one like you said in your post cause it bottoms out pretty easily.

Also, I think Horizon sells the adjustment collars for your shocks separately. They're already showing quite a few parts for the Mayhem. Most of them are stock though.

oldchopdoc

Something else I didn't notice before. Every screw on this car is a hex-head, except the air filter and battery switch screws. That's a plus.

mk999

As you've never run a Buggy before you probably don't know, they bottom out like crazy you will scratch that chassis to hell and back till it 1mm thin and snaps, but i think thats part of why they jumps so well. While MT's are rolling around from the previous corner the buggy bottoms itself out with flat land which steadies it and then it jumps it fly straight as an arrow while the MT spins in midair more than a washing on spin dry I didn't realise this at first and only know because a friend of my Dad's is teaching me all about, and he knows his stuff cos he happens to be the EFRA rep for 1/8th

nurch

That is pretty interesting MK999, I hope you can share some knowledge here! It has been a while since I have been in the off-road scene.

I also wanted to note that every metal terminating screw on the buggy had threadlock on it. Yes, even the engine mount screws. TRULY a sign of quality manufacturing. You would think that this buggy was made elsewhere aside from Taiwan.

Oldchopdoc, were you able to toe-in your rear wheel adjustments to -3? I can't get my buggy's rear wheels to go beyond -.5 toe-in (yes I am guessing here). I am trying to set this buggy up as best I can, but the rear wheels do not want to agree with me. Cantankerous bloody SOB I say!

mk999

I've only been in the off-road scene two weeks but been reading odd bits about it and thinking wish i could get one of those, if they weren't so damn expensive for about a year. Then i found Ho-Bao Cheap and high-quality race ready, bought it about a week after i saw it. But anything you can ask me I can either answer myself or ask my expert just PM any questions Once you ask me I'll probably want to know the answer as well All of my screws had threadlock on em as well, didn't stop me going over it again though, I was waiting for 'my expert' to check the car over before i started it and i had nothing better to do. Think yourself lucky you can adjust your wheels I have to buy plates for mine and take the rear diff off to change em, on the back anyway.

BTW taiwan push out some of the best RC cars in the world, The Team Magic G4 The Hyper range (I think) and the mayhem. If korea can create the impreza then taiwan can do pretty well as well because Korea aren't all that well known for great manufacturing

HPIDUDE

Impreza's are Japanesee

mk999

I stand corrected, I was told they were Korean always thought they wre japanese but i believed this guy for some reason

oldchopdoc

Nurch,

Even though things get pretty technical where I work, they don't at home...We bash cause we don't have a good track close enough to go each day. (Good old Kentucky....We invented the toothbrush! How do we know, you ask! Cause anyone else would have named it the teeth brush!) All of them numbers give me a headache! I don't see any way to adjust they rear toe-in, but if you get a big hammer and hold your tongue just right...

The manual only talks about adjustable caster on the rear. Post what you find out. My MTs have pbs front and rear with tie rod toe-in adjustment so it's easy with them.

Doug

HPIDUDE

thats a good one nurch, did you see Leno last night? He said the slogan for Kentucky shoulda been: "Got Teeth"!?

mk999

Do you really think anybody races every day It would cost them hundreds of thousands of pounds in spares and new engines and fuel and......

HPIDUDE

thats a little exageration and im hoping your joking,but it would get expensive

mk999

well lets see shall we using figures i got from a mate that races, £25 a month racing fortnighly that's 12.50 a race so a year of racing would cost 4562.50 add on to that engine costs 150 say for a fairly good engine now he gets a new one every year cos it nakars out on him now your racing 14 times more often so 14 engines a year 2100 a year in engines

in total it would cost you £6662.50 a year now you also buy a new buggy everey couple of years cos it gets a bit old and nakard so, high quality £550 every two years but racing 14 times more often so 7 buggies a year

So in total 3850+6662.50=10512.50

now lets say you stay in racing for 15 years in total

Total value of 15 years racing everyday=£157,687.50 100's of 1000's of pounds