Official Mayhem Thread
03-22-2005, 09:57 AM
#51
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RE: Official Mayhem Thread
I forgot to mention that I'm running a 13T clutch bell and mugen aluminum clutch and Mugen 1.1 springs. I'm lucky enough to have a LHS that stocks Mayhem parts and can order me stuff fairly quick. Did you replace your steering servo? If so, which one?
03-22-2005, 11:05 AM
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RE: Official Mayhem Thread
Na I haven't had a prob with the steering servo yet so I am just going to stick to stock! It seems to do pretty good! I can't wait for my 13 tooth clutch bell to come in. I put a 14 tooth on it and it helped some but I still don't have the bottom end! So maybe the 13 tooth will give me that! One of my local lhs stores caries a few parts and can order the rest, but I can get it cheaper and faster through fullthrottlehobbies.com. But right now I am just toying with ideas to make it turn sharper. I think I am going to raise the back end up a bit, add some camber to both the front and back, and put one size bigger sway bar on the back. I am also going to shorten the wheel bast up a bit and see if that helps. If I could get the setup down pat for the turns and control my go finger, then I should be right there with the big boys. I was turning 11 laps in the heat races in the stock buggy class which is the same as the guys in pro class were turning. There times were faster of course but atleast I would have been on the lead lap! haha
03-22-2005, 11:53 AM
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RE: Official Mayhem Thread
well, to update mine, i bent the chassis on the rear and the rear shock tower, i bent them back and put it back together. word to the wise---this happened because the rear chassis brace screw that attaches to the wing mount fell out--might not hurt to check it regularly and use threadlocker--as the screw is a little shorter than i would like it to be. use 30% in it and it runs cooler so you can lean it out more and get more response and top end. and make sure the low idle needle is set right---that might help on the bottom end a little---it helped mine a lot. i dont race mine--just play with it. i might go to the races this weekend if it quits raining in time to dry up. as for the steering, if you have the jr racing transmitter---read the manual for the control, you can adjust the steering to respond quicker and actually turn a little more, you can also change the mounting point for the servo on the throttle to the outside hole and due to the added leverage angle, it will open the throttle quicker. the lhs suggested that i run 10,000 in the front diff, its so thick it will almost act like a front one-way but will still retain a little slip.
03-22-2005, 12:11 PM
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RE: Official Mayhem Thread
I have already maxed out my steering on the radio and on the buggy. The key is to get the front end to bite! I think 10,000 is way to high for the front diff. About the most I would go is about 7,000. I do need to recheck my low speed needle settings, it seems like it is idled a little on the high side and if I cut it down it tries to cut off! As for the throttle servo it already opens faster than the engine can respond so I don't think makeing it faster will help! But thanks for the input its good to see there are some people out there experimenting. If the 10,000 wt works for you let me know. It might be worth a shot but I think that is way too thick! It seems we are all haveing the same prob with the turning radius so I will try and do some experimenting if it isn't raining this weekend and let you know how it goes and if I come up with any good tips!
03-22-2005, 01:31 PM
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RE: Official Mayhem Thread
have you tried to adjust the exp. and the limit on the transmitter for the steering?, you can make it start toturn faster, which might make it touchier, and you can adjust it up to 125% on the limit, i found that with it set at 100% it doesnt turn as much as if it is set at 125%. the only other thing is the tires grip so much like on grass, the servo cant turn the tires as much, kinda like having no power steering on a real car. and its already supposed to have a high-torque servo on it. the only real problem i am having is with the interference i get from electrical sources, as in power lines or if i am in the house with the car off, just playing with the servos, everything is ok for about 15 seconds, then the throttle opens to about 20-30% and the wheels lock in the full left turn position. is there a frequency that i can change to is is it just a characteristic of the fm transmitter? and the reason i was going to use 10k oil in the diff is because where i play sometimes, i get hung on a root, dirt clod, etc... and if one frt tire and one rear tire is off the ground, the ones that are one the ground, dont turn.
03-22-2005, 01:41 PM
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RE: Official Mayhem Thread
You know I had problems with same Hitec servo twice. Basically after 1 lap, it went to crap and wouldn't center. It was repaired once and then the same thing happened again. Someone at the track told me to set the end points on the TX so that it wouldn't over steer the servo. HOwever, while my Hitec was being repaired, I used a JR Z650M and didn't have a problem. Do you guys set your endpoints?
03-22-2005, 02:29 PM
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RE: Official Mayhem Thread
i want to say that i have a z650 in mine now, but i dont have it in front of me to verify. came with it. by endpoints, what do you mean, if its the limit of control on the transmitter---i have mine at 125% and have not had a problem with it yet, my problem is a frequency interference issue.
03-22-2005, 02:43 PM
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RE: Official Mayhem Thread
The Z650M is not the stock servo on the Mayhem. I think it's a 540. The endpoint adjustment would keep the transmitter from trying to steer past the limit of the servo. The servo can be damaged if it is forced past it's stopping point(left or right). The same is true on the throttle servo.
03-22-2005, 03:02 PM
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RE: Official Mayhem Thread
Actually it doesn't realy limit the servo. You can't force the servo past its stoping point. What it does do is keeps you from trying to force the servo to pull the steering past its limits! For example if you had a steering stop on your car or something and you constantly turned your wheels lock to lock it would keep straining the servo untill it would fail! So in other words you are matching the servo travel to that of the steering setup. If the steering bottoms out then you want to set the travel of the servo to stop just before the bottoming out. So 125% would be the servo's max travel, but maybe the steering can only go 100% of that distance. In that case you would want to set the servo limit to about 99% so that the servo isn't straining trying to pull the steering more than it is capable of going! A good way to tell is to turn the wheels all the way to one side with your radio. Then start adjusting the limit % untill the servo starts to make a buzzing noise. Once it starts buzzing then back off a couple %'s. If it doesn't buzz at all even till 125% then you have plenty of steering travle and it shouldn't hurt the servo. Also it is best to do this with the tires on a slick surface and the buggy sitting at ride hieght. I hope yall can follow this I know is prob sounds confusing as hell. And if I am way off base here someone let me know! 
03-22-2005, 04:10 PM
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RE: Official Mayhem Thread
ORIGINAL: Giles300-72
Actually it doesn't realy limit the servo. You can't force the servo past its stoping point. What it does do is keeps you from trying to force the servo to pull the steering past its limits! For example if you had a steering stop on your car or something and you constantly turned your wheels lock to lock it would keep straining the servo untill it would fail! So in other words you are matching the servo travel to that of the steering setup. If the steering bottoms out then you want to set the travel of the servo to stop just before the bottoming out. So 125% would be the servo's max travel, but maybe the steering can only go 100% of that distance. In that case you would want to set the servo limit to about 99% so that the servo isn't straining trying to pull the steering more than it is capable of going! A good way to tell is to turn the wheels all the way to one side with your radio. Then start adjusting the limit % untill the servo starts to make a buzzing noise. Once it starts buzzing then back off a couple %'s. If it doesn't buzz at all even till 125% then you have plenty of steering travle and it shouldn't hurt the servo. Also it is best to do this with the tires on a slick surface and the buggy sitting at ride hieght. I hope yall can follow this I know is prob sounds confusing as hell. And if I am way off base here someone let me know!
Actually it doesn't realy limit the servo. You can't force the servo past its stoping point. What it does do is keeps you from trying to force the servo to pull the steering past its limits! For example if you had a steering stop on your car or something and you constantly turned your wheels lock to lock it would keep straining the servo untill it would fail! So in other words you are matching the servo travel to that of the steering setup. If the steering bottoms out then you want to set the travel of the servo to stop just before the bottoming out. So 125% would be the servo's max travel, but maybe the steering can only go 100% of that distance. In that case you would want to set the servo limit to about 99% so that the servo isn't straining trying to pull the steering more than it is capable of going! A good way to tell is to turn the wheels all the way to one side with your radio. Then start adjusting the limit % untill the servo starts to make a buzzing noise. Once it starts buzzing then back off a couple %'s. If it doesn't buzz at all even till 125% then you have plenty of steering travle and it shouldn't hurt the servo. Also it is best to do this with the tires on a slick surface and the buggy sitting at ride hieght. I hope yall can follow this I know is prob sounds confusing as hell. And if I am way off base here someone let me know!
03-22-2005, 05:05 PM
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RE: Official Mayhem Thread
i held mine in the air and did it. it doesnt buzz at all on the left turn, but on the right turn, it does, so i will adjust it a little tonight
03-22-2005, 05:29 PM
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RE: Official Mayhem Thread
i have to host them somewhere---can i host them on this site? my friends server is down right now where i have my other pics and i dont know when i will have access to them. besides that its just a stock rtr mayhem
03-23-2005, 03:37 PM
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RE: Official Mayhem Thread
Yea I have the same prob. I can't find a place that will host my pictures with out messing up my computer! lol I tried using webshots but for some reason I keep getting an error code. Mine only has a few hop-ups and I am still running the factory body. I figured I better learn how to drive before I mess up any more bodies! lol
03-23-2005, 07:05 PM
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RE: Official Mayhem Thread
can this site host the pics though?
ORIGINAL: Engrose
One page down there is a thread called "buggie pics", it's a fine place to put those pictures.
One page down there is a thread called "buggie pics", it's a fine place to put those pictures.
03-24-2005, 06:16 AM
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RE: Official Mayhem Thread
Glad I found this thread - you guys seem to have some good, "real world" advice!
The Mayhem is my first RC so I have some basic questions here at first:
Been going thru and threadlocking screws, seeing how the different components go together, etc. Took the suspensions apart to put boots on the shocks and CVD's and, of course, didn't notice a few things when I was dissembling them! Obviously the retaining plates for the pillow blocks on the front suspension are not suposed to be tightened down all the way. I now have them adjusted so that there is just a little bit of play in each joint and the servo seems to pivot them freely. Any other words of advice on adjusting these?
What is the best way to clean the car after use - solvent/cleaner/compressed air/all of the above?
Again, thanks for the info on set ups and radio/servo tuning. There's a lot to learn with this - but it sounds like we all made a great decision to buy this buggy!
Lee
The Mayhem is my first RC so I have some basic questions here at first:
Been going thru and threadlocking screws, seeing how the different components go together, etc. Took the suspensions apart to put boots on the shocks and CVD's and, of course, didn't notice a few things when I was dissembling them! Obviously the retaining plates for the pillow blocks on the front suspension are not suposed to be tightened down all the way. I now have them adjusted so that there is just a little bit of play in each joint and the servo seems to pivot them freely. Any other words of advice on adjusting these?
What is the best way to clean the car after use - solvent/cleaner/compressed air/all of the above?
Again, thanks for the info on set ups and radio/servo tuning. There's a lot to learn with this - but it sounds like we all made a great decision to buy this buggy!
Lee
03-24-2005, 08:17 AM
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RE: Official Mayhem Thread
You are pretty much right one with the pillow blocks. As far as the best way to clean it, I would suggest simple green and compressed air. Compressed air and a good airgun will keep it clean as long as it is a dusty track. Once you get to some tracks that are a little muddy then I would spray the whole thing down with simple green and then blow dry it with the compressed air. This will get it pretty clean. But of course if you have a few days that you can work on it, the best thing to do is to tear it down to the bare chassie and clean each individual part then put it all back together!! Not only is this good for cleaning but..... it will make you alot faster at fixing stuff that might break, and it will ensure that you have every tool in your tool box that you take to the track to fix anything that might go wrong! Also it will give you a better understanding of the car and how it works so it will be easier to tune! Hope this helps!
P.S. welcome to the thread!! Glad you could join us! Its good to have another mayhem driver around!
P.S. welcome to the thread!! Glad you could join us! Its good to have another mayhem driver around!
03-26-2005, 06:47 PM
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RE: Official Mayhem Thread
Help!
Trying to get the car started for the first time - and so far, no luck. Seems to be drowning in fuel. Have set and re-set the low and high speed needles per the specs. Even tried leaning the low speed out up to half a turn, no luck. Initially tried starting with the 6mm insert so the throttle response would be toned down some. When flooding kept recurring, I put the 7.5mm insert back in, with no different results.
Each time, after several starting attempts, I'd remove the glow plug, blow out the combustion chamber with compresed air, check the plug (still glows!), and start over. Many times it would catch up, rev up and die. Sometimes I could blip the throttle two or three times but then it would die anyway. At these times, the exhaust would be nice and white - and we want it rich at this time, right?
Finally, (I shouldn't have I know), but I started adjusting the idle adjustment screw - but no changes noticed. Anyone know where the idle screw needs to be set - how many turns back out from all the way in clockwise?
Thanks . . .
Lee
Trying to get the car started for the first time - and so far, no luck. Seems to be drowning in fuel. Have set and re-set the low and high speed needles per the specs. Even tried leaning the low speed out up to half a turn, no luck. Initially tried starting with the 6mm insert so the throttle response would be toned down some. When flooding kept recurring, I put the 7.5mm insert back in, with no different results.
Each time, after several starting attempts, I'd remove the glow plug, blow out the combustion chamber with compresed air, check the plug (still glows!), and start over. Many times it would catch up, rev up and die. Sometimes I could blip the throttle two or three times but then it would die anyway. At these times, the exhaust would be nice and white - and we want it rich at this time, right?
Finally, (I shouldn't have I know), but I started adjusting the idle adjustment screw - but no changes noticed. Anyone know where the idle screw needs to be set - how many turns back out from all the way in clockwise?
Thanks . . .
Lee
03-27-2005, 12:43 AM
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RE: Official Mayhem Thread
Im not sure of the break in process but I am pretty sure that you just want to let the first couple of tanks just idle through before giving it gas anyway correct?
03-27-2005, 08:47 AM
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RE: Official Mayhem Thread
Correctamento! Now if only I could get it to idle . . . Even though the glow plugs start out good really intensely red hot, they seem to start diminishing almost immediately. Maybe they've just not been able to stay hot enough to ignite the fuel until the engine warms up? Maybe the rechargeable "C" glow starter I have isn't strong enough, long enough. So may questions . . . but, solving the problems is part of the fun - right?
Lee
Lee
03-27-2005, 11:19 AM
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RE: Official Mayhem Thread
The break in process for the Mayhem .26 does not call for idling through a few tanks. You blip the throttle threw about 5-6 tanks. It will tell you exactly how in the instructions.
03-27-2005, 11:34 AM
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RE: Official Mayhem Thread
Im not sure what the prob is. I would suggest leaving the glow plug on longer and maybe even leaning the low speed needle out more!