Korn9898

My Feedback: (2)

yea hpi also has it in there fuel "99.9% pure Nitromethane contains rust inhibitors and an anti foaming additive." but they still recommend using after run oil if engine is gonna be setting for while

Savage Unlimited

Well I use after run oil quite often we don't have those name brand nitro fuels here the hobby shops basically make their own and sell it. Guess that is africa for you sometimes but I haven't had any problems with dirt getting in the engine thus far, I just give the head a good dose of buggy blast before hand and make sure it's clean I believe at the end of the day I am prolonging the life of that beautiful "BO3" engine of mine.


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Drive it like you stole it!!!

Super_Dave

Glad to hear the break in went well . You don't even need to take the glow plug out to after run oil the motor. Open the throttle all the way and put 4 drops of ARO in the carb then turn the motor over untill you know it cycled through. If you run the motor completely out of fuel after every run you really wont have any trouble with corrosion but you will be dry starting your motor next time with metal on metal contact. Everytime you have any metal on metal contact like that especially with a roto start or starter box that is instant engine wear. After run oil your motor after every day of use it WILL make your motor last atleast 1/2 gallon of fuel longer just because you will never have a dry start. Its still a good idea to get all of the fuel out of the motor before you put it up and when you do run it dry you of corse have some metal on metal contact but its not a big deal because the piston and sleve has expanded and don't fit as tight together as they do cold so it doesn't hurt the motor.

For break in I only run 4 tanks. 1 idle, after the 2nd warms up during idle just putt around on a flat area, 3rd tank leave it tuned the same and instead of tunning the motor to temp run the motor to temp (leave the tune run it as hard as it takes to get the temp up as long as its not to hard you still wanna keep the rpms down a little) 4th tank so the same as the 3rd and you'll be able to run harder with the same temp because its worn in more and 5th tank do your final tunning and run it like you normally would. My motors using after run oil always last anywhere between 5 or 6 gallons and run as strong or stronger then they are broken in any other way.

Edit: I've used this method on pretty much all motors but racing engines. The racing engines from RB Concept, Serio, Novarossi, ect. all have much tighter piston and sleve fits so its best to go by their instructions by running very rich for a certain CCs of fuel and slowly leaning out and getting the rpms up more and the whole thing usually taking about a gallon of fuel. I have broken in a few serio motors at work and used pretty much the same break in method as I do on everything else only just ran a few more tanks. I ran the motors richer (so they run around 180 degrees instead of 200) and idling for 2 tanks and go from there to finish at 8 tanks of fuel. They all ran great so far.

Savage Unlimited

I am wondering if you guys can tell me I have a pull starter and I am hearing everybody say to put the engine BDC for cool down I marked my flywheel but I can't seem too line it up with the pull starter. What should I do???[sm=confused.gif]

Super_Dave

To find BDC all you need to do is feel for it... Push the flywheel up the TDC and keep going untill you feel the piston coming back down and the flywheel spin easily. When the flywheel spins easily that means its out of the "pinch" area of the sleve and thats all you need to do. If you need to see where the piston is then just take the glow plug out to see if your atleast close to BDC or not.

Savage Unlimited

Thanks Stampy you always are a great help. Will try that and see how it goes, btw yeah the break in seems to have gone well I am still running just a tiny bit rich but am starting too lean it out now, took it too the track on sunday and had a great time jumping and putting a few extra scratches on there.

RC-Drift UK

If your engine has a flywheel, turn it over by hand from under the chassis, it should be tight as hell at TDC so just roll it back so it feels real loose then the piston should be in the bottom region of the cylinder

I have heard numerous times that when a nitro engine stops running, it never stops at TDC anyway

Savage Unlimited

Just so I am sure I can turn the flywheel on a pullstarter motor without damaging the pullstarter itself? Even if the flywheel is tight as hell that is not because of the pullstarter it's because of the engines pinch have I got that right??[sm=confused.gif]

SManMTB

99.9% pure nitro does NOT contain rust inhibitors and anti foaming agents.

ARO (or ATF oil) is good to use. 4 drops of it won't be of any use, you have to use way more than that. These engines are not decorations made of crystal and ARO will not cause damage. Just don't fuxxor up the o-rings in the carb.

REVO3.3

The oil in fuel content is different than after run oil. Your right to run it dry but the fuel oil itself also gums up when it dries, almost like wd-40. Thats why the after run oil works so well.
I also carry small compressed air bottles to clean out the glow plug channel if i'm not near a compresser.
Also, to save some money go to the auto store and buy Marvel Mystery oil. It is the same as after run oil but you get a quart for the price of a few ounces.

Engrose

Yes you can turn the flywheel on a pullstart engine by hand without doing any damage - but only in one direction!

Savage Unlimited

I presume then that the direction you can turn it in is the same direction it spins in when you pull the starter is that correct??

Engrose

Yes. I should have said that before.

Super_Dave

Like SManMTB said you really should put more then 4 drops of ARO. 4 drops is just barly enough in the carb but I only said 4 drops so you don't flood the crank case or hydro-lock the motor if you leave the glow plug in.

All of these nitro motors spin clock-wise (when your looking at it while the pull start is closest to you) so spin the motor clock-wise so the one way bearing in there slips. If you see the pull cord of the pull starter being pulled down then your going the wrong way.

Da Smak

Technically they Almost all spin Anti-clockwise in normal operating circumstances. But sometimes they will fire up in reverse, even a pullstart if the one ways failed.

Engrose

You're both correct. You are just looking at the engine from opposite ends.

motohead279

ok, I'm taking this all in also as I will be breaking in my first motor here very shortly. A question for you geniuses, I have on the way a hyper7 pro with a force .28. What fuel do you guys reccomend?

Savage Unlimited

Yeah this is something I want too touch on as well, the guy at my LHS gave me 15% and told me it's better for the intitial run in period he said "the engine doesn't have too work as hard" was he talking bull or is that really true, and what is a good fuel for racing he told me the engine should run optimum with 25%.

Thanks for all the tips thus far I am really learning a lot on this forum thanks for all who contribute here!!

Btw I am running a GS-Storm RTR Plus with the new BO3 engine.

SManMTB

BS.
Just use your regular fuel.

Korn9898

My Feedback: (2)

you can also use this for after run oil and air filter oil hpi actually recommends it

Savage Unlimited

Unfortunately they don't sell Marvel here in South Africa, I am using daytona after-run oil at the moment seems to be doing the job.
Another thing I want too find out from you guys, when you store your buggies do you keep the wheels of the ground and is it really necessary. I find the whole maintenance part of my new nitro-buggy quite daunting have any of you got a few tips for me on a good maintenance regime, like a list of things you do too keep your buggy in tip-top shape. I would really appreciate any inputs you have on this subject.[sm=idea.gif]

rc car CRAZY

Well im happy, just went to my lhws and i got 250ml of model technics after run oil for £2.80. I think thats a good deal.

Ben

Super_Dave

I break all of my motors in on 20% nitro. I do run blue thunder so I break in on blue thunder sport because it lubricates everything a little better and blue thunder race after break in.

Savage, The main reason why people tell you to keep the wheels off the ground is so the suspensions fully extended and theres no tention on the springs. I personally always just left any of my cars sitting with the wheels on the ground and the spring rate never got any softer because they had tention on them for a long time. I don't know who actually started the whole thing you should keep the wheels off the ground because I don't see your springs loosing their spring rate unless it was stored away for about 3 or 4 years with the springs fully compressed but even then the springs shouldn't soften up or stick in the compressed position.

bbs53

The springs will not take a "set" after any length of time thanks to the memory of spring steel. Tires on the other hand will get flat spots over a great deal of time, so if it is a shelf queen, then block it up off the tires. I collect a lot, and all of my vintage stuff is off the ground because a set of tires for an old car can get very expensive. Light makes them rot, or "perish" as does humidity. Nitro fuel is volitle, it will varnish if left to dry over and over again. Also the alcohol and other components tend to draw water from the air, this in time will kill your bearings, again, if you are running every week, then the risk associated with plug removal may outweigh putting ARO in the top, but not the carb. O.S. does mention that some oils can damage carb o-rings, but is not specific as to which. Hard to imagine though that it will and nitro fuel will not. It is cheap insurance and MM oil is as good as ATF or anything else, although they are mostly detergent and not oil. Mugen is the best I have found for loosening up a gummy engine and I do not know why, it just is. Bottom line is almost everyone I have seen uses it, a few do not. It does add to the mess, but as was mentioned, it is also a good time to check things over, although a good cleaning is better because it takes longer. Enjoy your new car, it will treat you right if you take care of her. When it starts to get tired, have it rebuilt, or even do it yourself, it really isn't that hard. If you catch it before it gets close to gone, it will serve you for a long time to come, as stated, they aren't that fragile, good luck!

ART1

I've ran as high as 75% nitro in my engines and even when I used O'Donnell fuel engine would rust if left overnight, however with 30% fuel engine if run dry can be left without extra oil. Nitro is highly corossive stuff. Best stuff for after run maintenence I found is CorrosionX, it can be used for eletronics and everything else.