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Please Read Need answere!!!

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Old 12-25-2005, 02:01 PM
  #1  
cjennings
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Default Please Read Need answere!!!

Today i bought myself a OFNA Hyper 7 PCR edition, and for some reason the flywheel is locked. I havent ran it at all yet. All ive dont is put in batteries and install the wing.

Pleas I really need an answere fast

Thnks for your help
Old 12-25-2005, 02:20 PM
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CH3-NO2
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

My hyper engine kept locking up when it was new. It's due to the fitting tollerences being so tight. When the piston reaches the pinch point at TDC, it often gets stuck during break in period. It's perfectly normal. I freed mine by dripping a bit of after run oil into the cylinder, and heating the head with a hair dryer.
Old 12-25-2005, 02:44 PM
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cjennings
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

I dont have any after run oil. Is there anyway i can free it up other then that?
Old 12-25-2005, 02:50 PM
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cjennings
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

Wait just found my AFO, but now i have anopther question.

How should i tune the Carb for break-In nd for how long should i break it in??

Also ive heard that some nitro cars need to be broken in with the wheels off of the gorund is that the case for my Hyper 7?
Old 12-25-2005, 03:32 PM
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MBX5T Maniac
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

look in the manual for the factory settings. Run about 6 tanks of fuel through it for best results.
Old 12-25-2005, 04:00 PM
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cjennings
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

There is no manual. Just building instructions.
Old 12-25-2005, 04:02 PM
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cjennings
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

I have one question about AFO is there any thing i should do before i pour it into the cylinder?
Old 12-25-2005, 06:07 PM
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

Whatever you do do not go bu the instructions..

Fill tank and start car.. start to run car up and down at 1/4 throttle for 3 mins, let it cool completely with piston at BDC.. Repeat this for another 3 cycles each time giving a little more on the revs.. DO NOT RUN RICH !!! make sure you get heat into the engine so tuning should be normal about 2 3/4 to 3 turs open ..
Once you have done this Fill tank and run engine for 2 tanks consecutively and start to lean for more performance
Once you have done this Run one tank hard at WOT and tune rngine for performance.

Running rich as is on instructions is designed to ruin the engine so you have to go buy another one... shame on manufacturers !!
Old 12-25-2005, 06:16 PM
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brian0357
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

Be sure to let the motor completely cool. STONE COLD!! I like to break my motors in on a stand with temp gauge on them and get them to approx 180-200 degrees depending on the motor. Do this twice, then I do two tanks on flat ground idling around no abrupt throttle changes (approx 220 degrees) then two more "easy" runs and after this I tune for performance. Temps may not apply to your motor but this is my method.
Old 12-25-2005, 06:53 PM
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

Running in on a stand dosent get heat into the engine like it would with a load , thats why i recommend driving the car straight away..
Old 12-25-2005, 07:01 PM
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cjennings
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

What does TDC and BDC stand for.

Hey Ch3-NO2 my ARO was emptey im gonna go buy some tomorrow, I hope it fixes it

Does anyone else have any expierence with there brand new Hyper .21 getting there flywheel stuck. If you have how did you fix yours?
Old 12-25-2005, 07:02 PM
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

We are just going back and forth eh? Anyways new parts need to be heat cycled with little to no load. It is the same thing as engine manufactures saying to run rich, your just putting excessive stress on critical parts. Proper combustion chamber temparatures are critical in the first few tanks to ensure proper expansion of these parts. Now a slightly rich condition will be ok here to keep the motor cool but not too cool! This is my practice I have found to work very well. I have tried many methods but have found this works best for me! my 2 cents
Old 12-25-2005, 07:04 PM
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

TDC is top dead center. This refers to the top most part in the crank shafts cycle were the piston reaches its highest point. Bottom dead center is the exact opposite of this. To unlock a tigh motor either heat it up or loosen the glo plug a bit to reduce comp.
Old 12-25-2005, 07:05 PM
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cjennings
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

I no preatty much how to break in engines. I was just asking if there was anything different i should do between the 1/10th scale on-road ive broken in, and my first 1/8th buggy.

Now im asking about the Flywheel problem with a brand new .21. And also what i should adjust the High and low speed needles on my carb to.

And it seems you to are disagreeing n whether i should actually drive it or break it in with the wheels off of the ground. I would rather break it in with the wheels off of the ground to save my tires, and considering so many people say its good to do it with the wheels off the ground there has to be some reasoning behind that. If i do break it in this way could i use my starter box to keep the wheels off the ground?
Old 12-25-2005, 07:42 PM
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brian0357
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

I am disagreeing with no one. I am giving my insight do it as you please.
Old 12-25-2005, 07:54 PM
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

ORIGINAL: cjennings

I no preatty much how to break in engines. I was just asking if there was anything different i should do between the 1/10th scale on-road ive broken in, and my first 1/8th buggy.

Now im asking about the Flywheel problem with a brand new .21. And also what i should adjust the High and low speed needles on my carb to.

And it seems you to are disagreeing n whether i should actually drive it or break it in with the wheels off of the ground. I would rather break it in with the wheels off of the ground to save my tires, and considering so many people say its good to do it with the wheels off the ground there has to be some reasoning behind that. If i do break it in this way could i use my starter box to keep the wheels off the ground?
A lot of people are wrong too.. Load on the engine creates heat which will expand engine parts to op temps as brian stated .. saving your wheels at the expense of your engine makes no sense either.. besides when you break an engine in on the road you shouldnt be spinning it and wearing your tires anyway..

Anyway its all a personal preference, ive come to these conclusions after not only my experience but conferring with people who have over 25 years of experience.. Engine load is maximised when its running cool not when it has drivetrain load. that is what they are designed for.. Load is what saves the engine , running a new engine without load is not good.. When you run in a motorbike you dont put it on a stand, when you run in a Kart you dont put it on a stand... you get out on the track and run it on the road.. same thing applies to little cars and engines.. Load saves the engine.. it also causes resistance and eliminates over excursion ...

: )
Old 12-25-2005, 08:11 PM
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

1) Assemble the engine properly and torque all fasteners to specs.

2) Start the engine with the bike on a stand and allow the engine to come up to operating temperature (top of the raidator hot to the touch). Do not allow the engine to run at one RPM at all. Constantly vary the RPM and do not allow the engine to idle. When then engine reaches operating temperature (about 3 to 5 minutes of running time), shut it off.

3) Let the engine cool completely (at LEAST one hour). You want the engine to be dead-stone cold. Longer is better.

4) Start the engine with the bike on a stand and allow the engine to come up to operating temperature (top of the raidator hot to the touch). Do not allow the engine to run at one RPM at all. Constantly vary the RPM and do not allow the engine to idle. When then engine reaches operating temperature (about 3 to 5 minutes of running time), shut it off.

5) Let the engine cool completely (at LEAST one hour). You want the engine to be dead-stone cold. Longer is better.

6) Start the engine with the bike on a stand and allow the engine to come up to operating temperature (top of the raidator hot to the touch). Do not allow the engine to run at one RPM at all. Constantly vary the RPM and do not allow the engine to idle. When then engine reaches operating temperature (about 3 to 5 minutes of running time), take the bike off the stand and put it in gear. Take it for a ride. During this ride you want to keep the engine under a load at all times. Do not coast. Do not let the bike idle. Do not allow the engine to stay at one RPM. Riding on a mild slope is fine for this, as is slightly dragging the rear brake the entire time. Do this for about 15-20 minutes. Then shut the bike off.

7) Let the engine cool completely (at LEAST one hour). You want the engine to be dead-stone cold. Longer is better.

8 ) Re-torque the head and base nuts.

9) Go ride.
Thats how to break in a 2 cycle dirtbike. While the engines are much different, the concept is the same. I am not saying there is anything wrong with your method Massive, i am just giving mine.
Old 12-25-2005, 08:42 PM
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cjennings
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

OKay i figure screw it im gonna break it in the way i broke in my 1/10th on-Road. Drive it in figure-8's. I still havent gotten rid of this terrible sitcking flywheel problem. Also does anyone know where you can buy replacement wheels for the starter box that comes with the HYper 7 PCR edition, because the although ive never used a starter box before it looks like there is a preatty big groove forming because of the flywheel not spinning and it grinding away at the rubber.

P.S. the reason conserving wheels is a big deal for me is because my LHS doesnt stock any 1.8th buggy parts,and i need to order tires via web.
Old 12-25-2005, 09:14 PM
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brian0357
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

Doing figure eights wont break your motor in any better than it would going straight.
Old 12-25-2005, 10:44 PM
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cjennings
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

I wasnt beeing specific about the figure 8-'s just that i was going to drive it instead of doing it with the wheels off of the ground.
Does anyone know where you can buy replacement wheels for the starter box that comes with the HYper 7 PCR edition, because the although ive never used a starter box before it looks like there is a preatty big groove forming because of the flywheel not spinning and it grinding away at the rubber,
and if anyone who has expierence with there hyper .21 engine sitcking, please tell me how you fixed it. Tommorrow im gonna try Ch3-NO2's idea to put ARO in there. But ive never used it before, and if there is anything i should know please tell me.
Old 12-25-2005, 11:00 PM
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peakman
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

cjennings if you are located in Miami then contact Extreme Hobbies and they might have one or just come to the track thursday night and we will help you break in your new motor.
Old 12-25-2005, 11:10 PM
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cjennings
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

Might have one what at Extreme hobbies??

Im preatty sure i know how to break in the engine the only reason i asked was because i wasnt sure if there were any kind of differences between breaking in the .15 i had in my last car or the .21 in my buggy. Right now the main struggle is just getting the thing started. Its so hard to do because the flywheel is stuck so the Starter box wont even turn the engine over, and im afraid to try much more because all it does is it keeps digging a groove in my starter box wheel and i think I'm going to have to buy a new one, which is preatty hard to find.

Ive never used starter boxes before so id otn know if it is even abnormal to have a groove in the starter box wheel.
Old 12-26-2005, 12:35 AM
  #23  
mgtman
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

its a possibillity that maybe your clutchbell bearings went and are cousing it to lock up just check it out something might be binding in you clutch assembly
Old 12-26-2005, 10:15 AM
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cjennings
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

Ill check that but i dont think so the thing because.it is brand new. I jsut hope that the ARO and heating the engine with a Hair dryer will help losen it up. If there are any more suggestions on how to fix the problam that these brand new hyper.21 has then tell me.
Also WHat should i adjust the high and low speed needle to for break-in. Correct if i am worng but 2 3/4 to 3 turns open on the High speed needle is right for break-in, but what about the low speed needle??
Old 12-26-2005, 11:05 AM
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cjennings
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Default RE: Please Read Need answere!!!

MAn i put some after run oil into that things. It loosened right up. But i have a question. Do i have to flush it all out of the engine before i try and start it. Qhat i did this time was put after run oil in, let it sit for a few minutes, then put some fuel in to the head and flushed it all out. The problem was after i put the fuel in and poured it out. In a few minutes the engine went right back to sticking. Ive never used after run oil before so i dont know whether i should flush it out or not?


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