Nathan9492

Yes, BUt i just found this method easier, as it would idle, while trying to adjust the HSN.
If you dont like the tuning method, Why keep on whinging?, There is soooooo many different methods of tuning, and running in that theres just no point.
Hell, I know a guy that Idles his engines through 7 tanks, and they go really strong, i also know of a guy that leans them right out straight from the factory and Runs them HARD during break in.There still going strong aswell.
Im in now way having a go at ya, Just trynna get a point a cross that there is many ways of tuning a nitro, And really, IF you can get your car to run really good, with a nice trail of smoke, no hesitations from bottom to top, then ur tuning method worked, FOr me this tuning method did just that, IN a easier way then i used to do it.

hrdcoreglf

If you read the post properly it is a book and dvd. I've been looking but I can't seem to find the book or dvd you have had published. Which is endorsed by Radio Control Car Action magazine, Radio Control Nitro, RCX, Tinity, AE, Traxxas. I'm not saying your wrong, I am simply saying you can read the book and watch the dvd and leave this forum more informed than when you camein. You just aren't following industry / racing standards. You have to be willing to learn. The best teacher knows they can always learn more.

svo

My Feedback: (1)

I dont know wether to tune my engine, or just fight. hehe

fazznick

Is there a way to tell if the motor is completely broken in? I busted a con rod in my last engine and really don't know why. I want to avoid this on my new one. I have about 10 tanks through it now and it runs and starts great but I want this one to last. It is a hyper .21 8 port race. When I turn the flywheel without the glow plug in it stops at the top. Is this normal?

Nathan9492

Hi Fazz.
YEs that is totally normal For the piston to stop at the top of the sleeve.
Thats a good sign that there is compression and Pinch.
IF there was none there, then you have lostt compression, Basically means ur engine is shot.

*FULL-REVS*

how about if ya turn the fly wheel over by hand and at TDC it has a rock (like movement in the fly wheel) without the piston moving? im thinking a flogged out con rod????

Nathan9492

Your flywheel maybe a bit loose?
Check that its tight, before jumping to the conclusion that u have done something internally

Da Smak

More likely that the big or little end bushes are shot or you have dodgy bearings, if the flywheel was loose then the crank would stop and just the flywheel would spin.

But I have 2 engines that have a lumpy feelat TDC and they still run fine. It's more noticable on short stroke engines too btw.

*FULL-REVS*

yeah it runs fine when cold but when it gets warn it develops a low down bog.....(without adjusting anything) its starting to do my head in.....tried everything....fuel tank and lines, plug, retuning, bearings are spanking new as is piston and sleve.... broken in well and performed well for a short time then started playing up.... have stripped and sealed carb,back plate etc....

fazznick

thanks nathan

Nathan9492

No problems

Da Smak

Those are classic air leak symptoms, but also this could just be a plug type prob, you've tried everything but a hotter plug by the sound of it.

autoconnection

Do you have to turn your engine off when breaking in? i ran it richer than normal, then started leaning it out at about the 5th tank. but never turned my engine off during gas refills.

jonnymac

It is adviseable depending on the method you use.
I always use the heat cycling method which requires stopping the engine and cooling it.

TIG-1

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TIG-1

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