JamieKerr

Thankyou i will have a look.
JK

harrier

My Feedback: (2)

OK, I've been enticed to start messing with shocks since reading you guys' posts. I took apart my stock shocks in the front of my H8 RTR. The oil in there was yellowish brown with a massive amount of bubbles. I dumped it and put in some clear 35 weight silicon shock oil. After opening the shock up again I noticed that the clear oil now had what looked like lava-lampish bubbles in it which I'm only assuming was residual from the factory oil. So my question is should I have cleaned out the shock resevoir with alchohol or some other cleaning agent before changing to another type of oil?

Also, I noticed that the right front shock shaft was bent. What should I do to replace it - get a new shaft or order some good Big Bore shocks with titanium shafts, etc.?

Also also, what's this about drilling your shocks to make them better? What are we doing exactly and where?

Also also also, my RTR came with white springs but I changed them out to the blue (turquoise) ones like on the Pro. Should I have stuck with the white ones? I'm primarily running on a pretty bumpy track.

Thanks,
Steve

JamieKerr

When you rebuild put in new oil in your shocks you should tilt them at a slight angle and slowly move the piston up and down, then once all of the bubbles disapear then put the cap on.
Moving the piston gets rig of any air inside of the shock which you want them to be bubbles free really.

JK

bentgear

Here is a quick video on shock buiding that may help.

[link]http://www.nitrohouse.com/video_help.htm[/link]

Scan down the page and you will see it.

Ed M.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Here is a very good video on building shocks. Look at the bottom of the page.
http://www.nitrohouse.com/video_help.htm

If you have the money for big bore Jammin shocks that is the way to go but at $110 plus for both sets ring now I have to stay with the stock ones. Yes if your shaft is bent get a new one unless you get the BB. Yes shock oil needs to be replace on a regular basis how often has to do with how much you run. I replace mine at least every two months.

OK in your shock pistons you have 2 holes these are the holes you drill out. Instead of trying to explain here is a very good sit that tells a lot. I printed it out and it took 60 some pages.
http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/

What set up you run has to do with the track or where you run and the way you drive. There is no 100% perfect set up for every situation and is why there are many adjustments.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

You beat me to it passing post again.

harrier

My Feedback: (2)

A guy at Hobbytown just told me that Nitrohouse was the official Ofna hobby shop online... is that true?

46u

My Feedback: (3)

From what I have heard Ofan and Nitro House is either in the same building or right next to each other. I do believe they guy told you correct. But I can get parts cheaper from Carolinas RC and it only takes 2 to 3 business days to get my order. Most of there prices are cheaper then A Main Hobbies as well. All so they have free shipping over $100 and all ways have coupons and monthly specials. Getting stuff from the west cost takes to long.
http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...dCategory=293#

harrier

My Feedback: (2)

I agree. My biggest complaint about Ofna in general is that it seems like I can never find ONE place that has everything. Tower has some, AMain, CarolinasRC. For instance I was looking for the titanium shafts for my front shocks. Searched all 3 and couldn't find them, however only Tower had them for rear. I guess you just have to deal with that or open your own hobby shop.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Not only that but Ofan has very poor customer service! I emailed them twice asking questions and never did get a reply. I like my Hyper 8 very much but do not think I will ever buy anything else distributed by Ofan. Then Hobao web site is so poor it does not even have the Hyper 8 listed. Yes there is an Ofan forum but when I have a specific question you should be able to get in touch with the distributor and not have to get a bunch of replies from the end user that may or may not know the whole story.

Nik.

whats an "ofan"??

down with ofna buhahahha

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Sorry but glade you where able to figure it out. [sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

adz06

having a slight problem with my hyper 8 my rear right handside wishbone keeps poping of like the we hinge pin some how comes loose and dislocates it. it happened once when i was just drivign then happened yesterday driving bout in field but i catch a bit of air time. i did notice that the pin goes out behind the rear bumper and there is bit of play in my bumper could this of cause it to slip?
thanks

46u

My Feedback: (3)

If I understand what you are saying the hinge pin for your arm keeps popping out? Is it pooping out from the rear bumper or from the adjusting bushing to set kick?

McFlyss

I.ve had this happen with a bad landing. The hole in the rear and front bumper is too deep for the hinge pin, meaning the pin can slip into it more and then means the arms can 'POP' off easily, very anoyying, any one have any solutions?

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I have at least 5 to 6 gallons on my Hyper 8 and so far never had this problem. The only jumps I do are on the track but I get at least 6 feet of air. This is the first time I have ever heard of this problem. Is this on RTR or the Pro kit?

bentgear

The only way I could see this happening is if it is warped away from the rear arms in which case it needs replacing or if the inserts are installed backwards. The inserts should come in from the front side to the toe adjustment plate.

Ed M.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Definably check the kick and toe adjusting bushings. Then check to see if the chassis is warped. I agree with bentgear something is not right, as I have never had this problem with MANY gallons on mine. Please let us know what you find out so if any one else has this problem we will know what it is.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

One other thing check the plates that hold the adjusting bushings.

adz06

thanks for advice i just bought my self a big set of hudy tools finally no more allen keys. i am onyl having the problem with my rtr by pro is fine ill have a look later and give it a good check over to figure out what is causing it.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Wow I know you spend some money on the Hudy hex wrenches but they do make some of the best ones. Did you get the ones with the metal handles or the new ones with the plastic handles? I know the new ones with the plastic handles cost about ½ of the metal ones. But either way they the steel in the tips are the same.

I have these
http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=2704
That I can use with this that makes things much faster
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...9688-skill_saw

Wonder if McFlyss is running the RTR as well that is having the same or similar problem.

adz06

they where out of the full sets u can get but they done a deal with me so i got some of the steel handle ones and the plastic the only difference is with the steel ones u can adjust the length of the tip. both really good though and i saved a bundle.
i think McFlyss is running the pro but aint 100%.

adz06

here are 2 pictures the one with white springs is my rtr the one with blue is pro
i only eva had the problem with the rtr
if u look at the rear bumper on rtr it is stickign out a big and u can clearly see the hinge pin so there is some play so i think this is mayb causing the hinge pin to slip out what use think.
as compared to the pro it is tight and not visable.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

My Pro has a pretty good gap with out a problem. So what you are saying it comes out from the kick adjusting bushing? Did you check them and the plates holding the toe and kick bushings? Did this problem just start or has it all ways been a problem?

harrier

My Feedback: (2)

I've noticed since playing around with diff oils and springs that on my RTR the screws that attach the lower shock to the frame on both left front and right rear of the car are silver and are reverse threaded (meaning clockwise to loosen / counter-clockwise to tighten). The bottom shock screws on the right front and left rear are black and threaded normally. Is this common?