bIGmiK

Hey guys, I'm looking at getting a Hyper 7 os some type for myself but I need to get a few things cleared up first.

Do all the Hyper 7 parts fit all the Hyper 7? For example if I buy the lowest end hyper 7, can I upgrade it to have all the alluminium and carbon firbe that the top end one has?

Any help would be great thanks guys!

(also please shares your thoughts on the Hyper 7 as a basher, not a racer).

Coopz

Theres a zillion upgrades for them. If you get a TQ you have the most options. The PBS models don't have the same amount of bits.

They are a good basher and a racer, pretty tough and great value.

bIGmiK

If I do get one it will be the Hyper 7 TQ Sport RTR.

So a Hyper 7 lower rear a-arm is a hyper 7 lower rear a-arm, and it the same on all the buggies? (just an example).

Or you say there are thousands of upgrades, does each different hyper 7 model have different upgrades, or are there just "hyper 7 upgrades" and they can be used on all hyper 7's?

Sorry if I sound like a person thats new to this, because I just never relaly had an interest in nitro antil about a week ago when I went to watch some local racing, I was always into electric and I want one of each [>:]

jonnymac

OK here goes. The TQ can accept all the bits from a hyper PRO. A lot of the Hyper PBS bits will not fit however. The difference is in the type of steering/suspension set up. The PBS is pivot ball suspension and the TQ and pro is C-hub. you could however change the whole front and rear ends and change one to the other. Choose the type you like and buy that one. C-hub steers sharper but is less adjustable and vice versa. One is not better than the other just different. Some parts however are the same for both but tend not to belong to the front or rear sections.
Hope this helps

bIGmiK

So all the PRO parts will fit?

If that's true that will be good bceasue there are many plcaes I can get PRO parts and hop-ups for the TQ then.

Thanks for your help guys, anymore input would be greatly appriciated!

jonnymac

One thing I recommend straight away if you bashing is CNC chassis braces.
The TQ is a great buggy. I would suggest buy the kit and add your own radio and engine though. The radio on the RTR is not so hot. other areas I've upgraded are metal geared steering servo (the plastic ones will strip after a few cartwheels), 6V receiver pack, OS rg engine, OFNA 086, pipe, Turnbuckles and CVD's all round.
Faster than RTRs and bombproof

bIGmiK

For now I'm just looking for a RTR, I dont want heaps of money into this thing then find out I dont like nitro that much (tuning, cleaning etc.).

I have a pretty much top of the line 1/10 Electric Stadium truck, so decent radio gear and good, metal gear, high torque and fast servo's I already use. Naturally, one I decided if I like this type of RC, I will put a little more into the exsisting buggy, or just flog it and start from scratch.

A metal gear servo I might just start with though, they are cheap and really useful! Normally they have nearly double the torque too!

jonnymac

No probs,
Just a word of advice. Give the nitro thing a few months and read around the forums. It can be VERY frustrating for noobs. your bug will run like a POS for a start until its broken in and it won't idle well and all sorts of problems. Just persevere with it and keep cool and soon once you get used to it you'll love it. most people don't make it through the first few weeks and put them on ebay, but if you get through that your electric truck might just end up there
If you have any probs just post up here or if youre not having any luck PM me.
Good luck

bIGmiK

Thanks for the nice welcome mate

Yes, I have been reading up lots already about how to tune it and break it in and it will prolly be another month or so before I get it as RC funds are a little low at the moment (I just dropped nearly $300 on a brushless motor and speedie for my electric truck).

How do you think I should break it in?

I have been told:
1. Idle a tank through
2. Have a very low throttle second tanks
3. Have another slow tank will a see blips of throttle.
4. Do same at step 3 again.
5. Do some 3-6 seconds full throttle passes with slow inbetween.
6. Pretty much just have fun this tank.
7. Lean it out 1/4 a turn on the high speed needle and have a good run.
8. Keep doing same as tank 7 till it's good.

Each number is the next tank. Does that sounds about good?

jonnymac

Well I personally wouldn't use that method.
I would mark BDC on your flywheel so you can reset after each run. Then cover the head in foil or tape (or something) you want temperatures to get up whilst the engine is still rich (running rich gives cool engine temps). Just get it running (you might need to keep the glow starter on for a while and even might need to lean the LSN 1/12th turn) and drive it for 2 mins. don't be shy but just don't give it long periods of wide open throttle. You want the engine to get hot. after 2 mins stop the engine and return the piston to BDC and allow to cool completely. Repeat this process for about 3 tanks. After 3 tanks run for 3 min intervals for another 3 tanks. Take off you foil or tape and start tuning and thats it!
The idea is to get the engine used to heat cycles whilst having enough oil about to allow the moving parts wear in properly.
Tuning just lean out the high speed needle 1/8th turn until you get a lovely steady accelaration to a high pitch wail at top speed and the faintest trail of smoke at full throttle. After time you'll get used to the sound but if your worried you can check the temp of the engine to ensure you're not too lean about 230-270 degrees F is ok. the LSN should be adjusted until the car idles for 5-7 secs and revs out a little when pinching the fuel pipe.

bIGmiK

Haha, I really need to get in with all this nitro stuiff if I'm going to get one.

I know what BDC (bottom dead center) is, but how do I mark where it is on the flywheel?

I understand completely what you are saying about you want the get the engine hot, but yet have lots of oil (rich).

So can you tell me how to work out when my engine it at BDC and how do I mark it on my flywheel?

ALSO: Should I just stick with my pull starter for a while and get a starter box once I decide I like it, or get a starter box from the start? (I don't like the idea of tugging ). I'm a lazy electric guy, plug it in, and it goes!

jonnymac

OK BDC. Take out the glow plug and slowly pull the starter until you see the piston at the bottom of its stroke. In that position flip the buggy over and place a permenant marker line at 6 oclock position on you flywheel and bobs your aunties live in lover!
Pull starts hmmmmm! you will find most people on here hate pull starts, they will complain of leaking one way bearings and that they 'rob' power. I use pull starts because when I go out I don't want to carry a ton of stuff (I've got a plane for that lol). You can get roto start backplates for them and start them like that but its still expense and more to carry. I have a very easy way of starting that never requires more than 2 tugs on the starter. I put my finger over the exhaust and pull until fuel comes up the fuel line, take off the filter and add a few drops of fuel and replace the filter. then put on the glow starter and 1-2 tugs and you away.
Now if you don't mind the extra weight and you have designs to race more than bash the starter box is the way to go, otherwise stick with the pull starter for now and if you really don't like it weigh your options up then.

bIGmiK

Sounds good, and cheap

I'm yound and fit (haha, I'm still a teenager, hence the low amounts of money) so even if it takes 5 or 6 tugs to start I dont mind, aslong as I don't have to sit there tugging away for like 5 min's.

So from what I read there is a direct relationship between the flyweel and the position of the piston in it's sleeve, meaning there is not gearing change anywhere between the shaft coming out the motor and the flywheel. Sounds good, once I get this thign I will learn alot faster I think because I will have it sitting with me and it is easier to learn that way.

So pretty much what on my list so far is:
1. Hyper 7 TQ RTR
2. x2 High Torque metal gear servo's (I think these are a must for all RC's, so I'll just get one for the throttle aswell).
3. Fail safe (yep, I dont want a run-away)

jonnymac

and CNC chassis braces (if your jumping big)

bIGmiK

Nyuk nyuk nyuk, I dont jump big [>:]

Can someone link me to this chassis brace, I don't know what I'm looking for, or where to look...

Honestly though, I won't be going huge, just a bit of fun at my local park, bmx track (I race bmx, so I'm there alot) and a few front yard jumps, but most the time I just drive around on the ground over humps and **** not getting more than a foot of air.

jonnymac

you'll be ok with the ones on it then. if you feel the need to jump big then just look on ebay for them (they're always on somewhere)
heres what the look like
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HYPER-7-pro-FR...QQcmdZViewItem

let us all know when you get it and what you think

bIGmiK

Great, that's for all your help guys.

Oh golly, look at what I spent or am spending in the next month:

-New mf2 kit ($300)
-new servo ($100)
-brushless ($300)
-new bike ($1.2K)
-1/8 buggy (spose ill get around $0.5K)

Golly, that sucks when your 15, buy all your own stuff, and only work part time.