Dokioto

Giving me a few ideas with those pics..
I looked at the carbon fiber parts a long time ago and decided to just by something more useful, but I love the look of it.

Why the move with the battery? Did you cut down the radio box your self (looks very cleanly cut if so)?

Have you been running it with 2wd and the center spool? If so that explains the problems with gears..
I just looked at your last post and totally missed you saying your running a center diff... This is way harder on the differentials; I would just run heavier silicon oil.

Your picks really make me want to do more work on my car. It is way to cold outside here to drive it now (run it a lot in the summer) but a few new shinny parts aren't going to hurt it. I haven't put oil in the diffs yet and really need to get that done (been using grease). Those carbon fiber parts would look great next to my green engine head! Might have to think about this because I also need a new video card for my computer and these aren't cheep.

I have my LX1 in "My Models" and "Gallery".. Mostly up to date but the pics are a little behind.

Losi 8ight...Pshhh, When you got that beastly thing you don't need one of them. You and your boy have done a great job, I am falling behind

bronx boy

Thanks alot i was not quite sure which one to get .But all of you cant be wrong .I will go with the ultra lx 1.Like i said im a weekend warrior with my 7 year old godson he lost his mom to cancer last year so whatever i can do keep him happy is worth it to me .I will be keeping you informed on my new baby when it comes.

Dokioto

^ I am sorry about your loss.


He will cheer right when he hears it scream right down the road

canuck5902

I just got mine a couple months ago and have started the winter fix ups. About to do the diffs and just finished putting new oil in the shocks and adding new springs. I recommend changing your shock oil as well. My shocks were laying on their side for awhile, when I picked them up and ran them through the paces there was slop when changing direction. I believe this was from air in them from improper assembly.

drbelleville

Well we had the problem with the diffs in 4wd drive "mode" so we switched to 2wd after I had talked of the days of racing 2wd in the early 80's. Right now the diff is holding up well right now since running the 14T clutch bell. Glad you like the lid mod, it was cut down on a band saw. The battery was moved to be more accesible, and also to distribute more weight forward. Ideally we would move it to the front to the left of the steering servo, but for that we need an older fuel tank with less capacity, and my sons not to keen on that idea. The xtreme carbon stuff is pretty good, its holding up well. We did not buy the carbon shock towers though, as the front upper hinge pin would have to be supported by the carbon fiber, and in a "good" crash I am not sure if that would hold up to well. Thats why we went with the PCR Items. We have been toying with the idea of dropping in an OS .18 TZ, which would increase run time, drop some weight and maybe be less strain on the drive train. Right now I am working on a "Slipper" style insert for the center diff to relieve more strain and smooth out the power delivery.

Thanks for all the positive comments and support.

Dokioto

Nice plan.. Getting me all excited

motionmachine

If it aint broke, dont fix it...
Over the last decade the ultra's have recieved many suspension updates, KPS, PBS, C-Hub. The chassis has recieved a few updates along the way, kick up, larger radio box, larger fuel tank, better shocks, chassis struts in lue of traditional bracing, thicker shock towers. The only significant driveline "update" worth mentioning is the grubless cap joints. Back in its infancy, the Ultra World buggy was the boom.
Unfortunitely, Ofna still equip's there RTR's with very low quality radio systems and underpowered servo's as to just barely meet minimum "RTR" standards and should be amoung the first upgrades considered IMO. They likely do that to keep the initial cost down to attract newbs.


Actually, the Ultra's legacy dates back to the Worlds buggy, released in the mid 1990's I believe.
That Ultra GT LX in your link is the latest "updated" version, my old school Ultra GT LX set up is quite different.

drbelleville

Got any pics of your buggy, would be cool to see how far the chassis has come. I had forgotten about the Worlds version, I did remember there was a Worlds 2. I think the chassis started with the HODR platform with Hong Nor. Here are a few "vintage" HODR / Ultra pics I dug up.

motionmachine

Heres some old pics of my old school Ultra GT LX, for what there worth. Long before truggies became cool, I was and still do convert all my Ultra buggies to kick ace truggies (Monster Blazer GT's and GTX's), with the exception of an LX Comp that I rarely ever run..



Anyhow, the old'er Ultra chassis utilized a radio tray spanning the full length of the chassis (truss type) that looked much like the one shown below and had a Y brace up front spanning from the servo saver post to the top of the trans mount. The radio RX was housed in a tiny radio box that bolted on top of the radio tray and the batt was zip tied under it for easy access. I actually prefer the old set up compared to the updated chassis, IMO its more rigid (less chassis flex).


I'll see if I can dig up any older buggy top shots...

motionmachine

Heres a better chassis shot of a pre-updated Ultra chassis, this one belongs to a friend. Overlook the ceter top plate and larger spur gear, its been truggyized...

jamstar47

motion machine : what are the parts u used to convert the buggy ?

motionmachine

I was afraid someone might ask that.. Now how do I respond without sounding like a salesman? LMAO
Sorry, but with the exception of the spur gear (OFN18163), you wont find any of them parts at your LHS or Ofna.
Those aluminum wheels, the 4130 CMT 8 pt rollcage, and the Ultra GT (Great Truggy) conversion kit (shown below) are all mine. I once designed, produced and sold various RC hop ups and/or upgrades, now I just fend for myself and close friends however, I still have a few GT Kits left if you or others are interested... Shoot me a PM for details.

wminmi

My Feedback: (26)

Got a question for ya MM, when building your own rollcage, what size/type welder did you use to weld it all together?

Been wanting to build my own cages, but thinking my 175 Hobart mig may be a little much.....

IrishNitro

Hi there ,

Can anyone recomend an electric or hand held starter for my LX-1, i have melted two pull cords on the exhaust . probally inexperience but still a pain in the ass. Thanks

canuck5902

I was also wondering which drill start to buy? My buddie bought a starter box for his lx-1 and we never got it to start.

jamstar47

the ofna torque start will work i have it on mine but after a while the gear in the torque start wears down

this is the back plate

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMRL9&P=7

and this is the drill

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTUZ5&P=7

motionmachine

Im no professional welder in any sence of the word. I use a 115vt FarmHand Pro Fluxcore wirefeed welder w/ gas and the smallest wire available for my personal cages. I approach it much like spot welding to avoid burning/blowing holes in the extremely thin material (.038"), needless to say its a slow labor intensive process.
Took me many months of searching to find a fab shop with the right equipment and a most competent professional welder to tig weld customers cages. Finally found the shop in the most unusaul of places, a commercial supply and fab shop that supplies and fabricates custom stainless steel counter tops, SS sinks, and what not for hospitals and restarants. On his best day, takes him about 1.25 hours to weld up one cage...

Dokioto

I just use a starter box, much easier in my opinion.

motionmachine

Look through this link, [link=http://www.ofna.com/start.html]Ofna Starting Equipment[/link] and can be purchased through your LHS or [link=http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/]NitroHouse.com[/link].
Personally, I have used Ofna's Chrome Top starter box (10253 w/ power panel) since 1999, love it.

canuck5902

Has anyone tried a starter box with the lx-1 and the stock motor. We had the box hooked to a good car battery and had no success.

motionmachine

I start all my Ultra's fitted with hipo engines with a starter box (10253), not a problem. What starter box are yall using?

canuck5902

Losi box and the stock .28 is in the car still.

IrishNitro

hi i had a crash , straight into a brick wall very fast . i bent the drive shaft between the front and centre diffs ,which i know i can replace but now the chasse seems to be slightly curved up just around the front wheels . Is the slight curve normal maybe it was always there or was it caused by the crash ???.

Dokioto

Not enough power in the starter.. Break in the engine with the pull start, and after that it will work like a charm. Or get more power.

Dokioto

Yeah there is a bend normally in the chassis.. If you bent the drive shaft though, I would bet you bent a lot of things...