CORR Truck/Conversion thread
#29
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RE: CORR Truck/Conversion thread
Buggy chassis' are a perfect fit for the SC10 and slash bodies. If we used truggy chassis we would only be able to use the sc8 body and that isn't cheap.
#30
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RE: CORR Truck/Conversion thread
I've posted this on a couple other message boards... But, here she is... Can't wait to put it back together!
For now I don't know what to call it, so I'll probably just slam some Mugen and Associated decals together for MBXSC6.
The build was relatively straight forward, only took a little while to do some body mounts. No cage for now... The MBX6 and MBX6t's are amazingly universal as the suspension bolts right on the chassis cause they use the same gear boxes, arm holders, etc. Even the mounts for the chassis stiffeners line right up, again, using the truggy pieces. The footprint for the fuel tank is exactly the same, but I opted for the truggy tank for it being a little larger. Of course I had to use the truggy center universals, and should have used the servo linkage, but instead I just flopped the servo where the gear is in front instead of the rear in the buggy. Radio wise, that was the only mod aside from clearancing the front servo tray mount at the bottom for the servo lead, otherwise the entire radio box drops right in. The rear arm downstops hit the chassis perfectly, but the fronts miss it entirely... Might have to limit internally.
I'll get pics of the mounts later, but for the most part, she's ready to drive! The setup is what I was racing my buggy at, so I'm sure I'll have to stiffen up the suspension.
Another interesting note about everything mounting universally, is that if it handles like a complete turd, I'm not too far away from mounting up the remaining parts to fully convert it to a truggy!
So far, the only regret is mounting the body about 1/4 inch too far forward. Instead of cutting the body or drilling new holes, I'm probably just going to throw some uptravel limiters in the shocks. The body trimmed on Associated's lines is about 1/4 inch above the chassis guards in the front, and about 1/2 inch at the back of the guard.
For now I don't know what to call it, so I'll probably just slam some Mugen and Associated decals together for MBXSC6.
The build was relatively straight forward, only took a little while to do some body mounts. No cage for now... The MBX6 and MBX6t's are amazingly universal as the suspension bolts right on the chassis cause they use the same gear boxes, arm holders, etc. Even the mounts for the chassis stiffeners line right up, again, using the truggy pieces. The footprint for the fuel tank is exactly the same, but I opted for the truggy tank for it being a little larger. Of course I had to use the truggy center universals, and should have used the servo linkage, but instead I just flopped the servo where the gear is in front instead of the rear in the buggy. Radio wise, that was the only mod aside from clearancing the front servo tray mount at the bottom for the servo lead, otherwise the entire radio box drops right in. The rear arm downstops hit the chassis perfectly, but the fronts miss it entirely... Might have to limit internally.
I'll get pics of the mounts later, but for the most part, she's ready to drive! The setup is what I was racing my buggy at, so I'm sure I'll have to stiffen up the suspension.
Another interesting note about everything mounting universally, is that if it handles like a complete turd, I'm not too far away from mounting up the remaining parts to fully convert it to a truggy!
So far, the only regret is mounting the body about 1/4 inch too far forward. Instead of cutting the body or drilling new holes, I'm probably just going to throw some uptravel limiters in the shocks. The body trimmed on Associated's lines is about 1/4 inch above the chassis guards in the front, and about 1/2 inch at the back of the guard.
#32
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RE: CORR Truck/Conversion thread
I originally posted this in the MT2 thread since I didn't know this one existed so here it goes......
I’ve always liked the look of the short course/baja race trucks, and with the short course trucks being the recent rage, I’ve decided to convert my MT2 into one. I’ll list what I’ve done/purchased so far and update this thread if any of you are interested or would like to do the same.
I took my truck down the LHS and tried on a few bodies, tire/wheel combos, and measured up some front and rear bumpers. I decided to go with the HPI Blitz wheel/tire combo since they’ll fit if you use the 12mm Blitz hex nut. Out of the different bodies I tried, the SC8 fit the best based on the stock wheelbase of the truck. I was able to get the wheels/tires for $29.99, the hex nuts for $5.98 and the body for $25 off ebay (I know, I should support my LHS, but their price on the wheels/tires alone were over $50!).
In the first pic, the body is set on the truck with the stock wheel/tire set up. Obviously it doesn’t look right. Next pic is with the Blitz tire/wheel combo. It looks a little better but the wheelbase just doesn’t look quite right. After doing some measuring, I was able to see that if I extended the wheelbase by 1.25â€, the tires would center up in the fender openings. So, how was this going to happen? I sat there turning the truck around, looking at it from different angles and decided that the easiest thing to do would be to relocated the rear dif assembly back 1.25â€, but the question was, how would I make up the difference in the rear main shaft length?
After I pulled the rear assembly off, I laid the driveshaft on the table and I was playing around with the suspension when one of the dogbones fell out. I set it next to the rear shaft and decided to measure it, 1.25†longer!! Problem solved! I was able to put the dogbone in and mock-up the location for the rear dif assembly. I flipped the stock hex nuts and slid them on the axle so the new wheels would seat and I could check out how it sat. That’s the next pic, and the wheels line up very nicely in the fender openings.
The last pic of the bodies is for comparison, and as you can see, this is going to make the MT2 look quite a bit larger than the stock look.
So my next task is to fabricate a new chassis. I’m still up in the air on that trying to decide if I’m going to go with aluminum or carbon fiber (colored maybe). The last pic that you see is an example of a roll cage (made for a Slash) that I may use to fabricate for the MT2. I will also be fabricating front and rear bumper with skid plates.
If you have an interest, comments, or suggestions on this post, let me know and I’ll update the progress. It won’t be too fast, cause I’m broke and I’ll be making most of it. [&o]
EDIT: Pics 2 and 3 are reversed
I’ve always liked the look of the short course/baja race trucks, and with the short course trucks being the recent rage, I’ve decided to convert my MT2 into one. I’ll list what I’ve done/purchased so far and update this thread if any of you are interested or would like to do the same.
I took my truck down the LHS and tried on a few bodies, tire/wheel combos, and measured up some front and rear bumpers. I decided to go with the HPI Blitz wheel/tire combo since they’ll fit if you use the 12mm Blitz hex nut. Out of the different bodies I tried, the SC8 fit the best based on the stock wheelbase of the truck. I was able to get the wheels/tires for $29.99, the hex nuts for $5.98 and the body for $25 off ebay (I know, I should support my LHS, but their price on the wheels/tires alone were over $50!).
In the first pic, the body is set on the truck with the stock wheel/tire set up. Obviously it doesn’t look right. Next pic is with the Blitz tire/wheel combo. It looks a little better but the wheelbase just doesn’t look quite right. After doing some measuring, I was able to see that if I extended the wheelbase by 1.25â€, the tires would center up in the fender openings. So, how was this going to happen? I sat there turning the truck around, looking at it from different angles and decided that the easiest thing to do would be to relocated the rear dif assembly back 1.25â€, but the question was, how would I make up the difference in the rear main shaft length?
After I pulled the rear assembly off, I laid the driveshaft on the table and I was playing around with the suspension when one of the dogbones fell out. I set it next to the rear shaft and decided to measure it, 1.25†longer!! Problem solved! I was able to put the dogbone in and mock-up the location for the rear dif assembly. I flipped the stock hex nuts and slid them on the axle so the new wheels would seat and I could check out how it sat. That’s the next pic, and the wheels line up very nicely in the fender openings.
The last pic of the bodies is for comparison, and as you can see, this is going to make the MT2 look quite a bit larger than the stock look.
So my next task is to fabricate a new chassis. I’m still up in the air on that trying to decide if I’m going to go with aluminum or carbon fiber (colored maybe). The last pic that you see is an example of a roll cage (made for a Slash) that I may use to fabricate for the MT2. I will also be fabricating front and rear bumper with skid plates.
If you have an interest, comments, or suggestions on this post, let me know and I’ll update the progress. It won’t be too fast, cause I’m broke and I’ll be making most of it. [&o]
EDIT: Pics 2 and 3 are reversed
#33
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RE: CORR Truck/Conversion thread
The traxxas slash actualy has a VW beatle body, does anyone think that it will fit on a 1/8 scale buggy??? I hope so, as it will help my buggy land back on its wheels after a roll and I like the Baja style for looks.[8D]
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RE: CORR Truck/Conversion thread
ORIGINAL: Maj_Overdrive
Real CORR trucks have 2wd (pro2) and 4wd (pro4) classes. RC CORR racing is only a 2wd class, but the bodies for 1/10 CORR trucks fit perfectly on a 1/8 buggy. And yes that's what has been done here, because we like the look.
My E-powered Ofna Ultra conversion
ORIGINAL: hrdcoreglf
I thought CORR trucks were 2WD. They look like buggies with truck bodies to me.
I thought CORR trucks were 2WD. They look like buggies with truck bodies to me.
My E-powered Ofna Ultra conversion
What did y'all do for the suspension, or did you leave it stock?(It looks like it is sitting higher) And are there specific body posts I need to buy?
#36
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RE: CORR Truck/Conversion thread
Thats my old, old Ofna Ultra series buggy pictured above. It sits higher because the downtravel limiters are not being used. The a-arms are actually hitting the chassis (where the limiters would) on the downstroke, and the Badlands tires I have on it in that pic are a little taller than most buggy tires too. Otherwise there are no suspension mods, and none are really needed. My only recommendation is have the tires you want to run on hand when you set the height of the body, so you can check tire to body clearance at full suspension compression.
As for body posts, it depends. I find T-Maxx/Revo body posts easy to use for the front. Just use longer shock screws and attach them there. I was able to use the stock wing mount, just had to adjust the angle, but t-maxx/revo body posts could be used on the rear shock tower too. If you have to buy body posts, get the extended ones, you can always cut them down.
As for body posts, it depends. I find T-Maxx/Revo body posts easy to use for the front. Just use longer shock screws and attach them there. I was able to use the stock wing mount, just had to adjust the angle, but t-maxx/revo body posts could be used on the rear shock tower too. If you have to buy body posts, get the extended ones, you can always cut them down.
#37
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RE: CORR Truck/Conversion thread
My buggy is also an Old Ultra I believe! So this is great.
Only thing that has been changed on my buggy is the previous owner put a rear shock tower on the front, and he replaced the motor with a Orion Force .21
Only thing that has been changed on my buggy is the previous owner put a rear shock tower on the front, and he replaced the motor with a Orion Force .21
#38
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RE: CORR Truck/Conversion thread
ORIGINAL: lez1troubles
Highlandgrip, that role cage looks great, did you make it yourself??? if so, what tubes did you use???
Highlandgrip, that role cage looks great, did you make it yourself??? if so, what tubes did you use???
I do think the tubing is 5/16 though.
#39
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RE: CORR Truck/Conversion thread
Thanks Highland, I would like to put the VW Baja Buggy body on my MP7.5 and a Beach Buggy body on my MP777, it'll be cooool.[8D]
#40
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RE: CORR Truck/Conversion thread
Does anybody know if the PARMA bodies will fit our 1/8 scale buggies. They have bodies for the Traxxas Slash and I'm hoping they will fit. The beach buggy and VW Beatle bodies.
#41
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RE: CORR Truck/Conversion thread
ORIGINAL: lez1troubles
Does anybody know if the PARMA bodies will fit our 1/8 scale buggies. They have bodies for the Traxxas Slash and I'm hoping they will fit. The beach buggy and VW Beatle bodies.
Does anybody know if the PARMA bodies will fit our 1/8 scale buggies. They have bodies for the Traxxas Slash and I'm hoping they will fit. The beach buggy and VW Beatle bodies.
#44
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RE: CORR Truck/Conversion thread
I beat the crap out of this thing and it just asks for more...lol
I even built a personal track for me and my buddies on a vacant lot next to my house.
I bought an airbrush last week and painted up a new body for it but haven't mounted it yet.
What do you guys think?...