The_Shark

ive been doing alot of work to my old Ravager 9.5. JPX .21, JP-2 pipe, aluminum clutch shoes, Jammin big bore shocks, aluminum chassis braces, aluminum servo posts, aluminum servo arm, high torque servos, digital radio, high downforce wing.

and i just completed one of my last upgrades- front and rear pivot/pillow ball conversion. it took 3hours to assemble, a couple tweaks to the linkage, some sanding of washers but here it is.

im just wondering if this is going to help with technical tracks. we have a long track, but i like technical tracks because its fun and difficult, and since your not doing 40mph, your not going to break parts left and right.

also this car weighs in at 8.4lbs race ready. is that really hefty?

xxxtsuperstud18

looks pretty sweet. I read somewhere that it pb's are better for faster tracks i think. and that turnbuckles are for technical tracks. I could be wrong though, it could be the other way around..

djzachtyler

My Feedback: (4)

ok, PBS vs. C-Hub... PBS is nice as it allows you much more ability to adjust your suspension for different techinical types of tracks, c hub is a little more durable IMHO, but you sacrifice the abiolity to adjust rear toe which helps greatly in setting the way your buggy bites and rotates in the turns and on/off throttle. if you are serious about racing tho... PBS is going to be preferred as it allows you that extra little bit of tuning ability to give you an edge against your competition IMHO

The_Shark

setting rear toe a little less toe in and more at 0 toe will give more tight turning, and more toe in will give more stability right?


the only thing im worried about is wearing out the rear hub, as i think thats a discontinued part. how long do those usually last? i dont think im going to break any hubs, these parts feel like they can withstand a incredible impact.

djzachtyler

My Feedback: (4)

not too sure on the rear hub durability for the Ravager, but OFNA stuff is pretty durable, I run Hyper 7 and have been running the same hubs for 2 seasons now and not had an issue, replaced several bearings tho.

you are correct on the toe settings. I personally recommend about 1-2 degrees toe in in the rear and set front camber to negative 2-3 degrees, and you should be able to run hard on any track... lay the front shocks down and stand the rear up. that is a pretty good good balance. at least it works well for me.

Realistically though I recommend getting digital micrometer calipers, Camber Caste gauge, and a ride height gauge and start trying different settings on you own learn thre are numerous tuning trips vids on you tube that feature Adam Drake's tuning tips, you may want to check those out... but mostly get the right gauges and tools.. you can get the caliper, and both gauges off fleabay for under 40 bucks.

The_Shark

my eyes ARE calipers! im not at the competitive level yet, so i will hold off on a alignment rig. however, i can set up the car pretty dead on using points of reference and random objects as height gauges (like a roll of tape under the A-arm)

haven't gotten a chance to take it on a track yet, but ran it on the street and it felt alot smoother and stable. i will update when i run on the track.