Forthcoming

I'm getting ready to start a new Swamp Buggy project. I already have an engine, ESC, and a LiPo battery. Which seem to work wonderfully together. I'll leave the Specs at the bottom of this post. So my questions are

1. How large should the hull be (length and width) and basic shape in order to allow for sharp turns at descent speeds without a 100% flip chance. (Calm water of course).

2. Where should the prop/engine be in relation to the boat itself? Should the prop be spinning in the middle of the boat of as far back as I can get it? Engine pushing or pulling? Things like this.

3. I would like to make this boat out of 2 inch House Insulation Styrofoam which I already have easily on hand. So the question is how do I fiberglass the styrofoam without “melting” it or adding to much more weight?

I have a few pictures ill add to show basic things I have played with. Any help will be greatly appreciated!!!!!!

Engine – Electrifly Rimfire .15 (35-36-1200kV)

ESC - Electrifly Silver Series ESC 5V/2A

Battery – 1000mAh 25C 11.1V 3cell LiPo

Got RPM

1.That is a very small, low-powered setup, so make the boat small. No longer than 18". 2" wider than the prop, minimum.

2. Put the motor in the back like you see on most airboats. This helps to keep water out of the prop when running.

3. I built a lot of FE boats out of 2" Styrofoam. Cover it with 1/2 to 1 oz cloth, use thinned epoxy to keep from melting the foam. Thin the epoxy with about 25% isopropyl alcohol.

Forthcoming

Prop is a 11x5.5 so the boat should be around 18 inches long by 13 inches wide? This engine seems like it would have a ton of power for that size of hull. I say that because I put this engine on a small nitro hull and I felt like it would go so fast that any bump would just flip it. I have some videos to show a poster board skid thing I made for just messing around with in the yard. It shows the power it seems to have.
Do I use 25% isopropyl alcohol and if so at what ratio of alcohol to epoxy do I use, or do I use the normal % alcohol and water the epoxy down by 25%?
Thank you for the Help!

This is my brothers YouTube channel that has the 3 videos (their the only videos he has on his account)

Videos - http://www.youtube.com/user/Odin5117?feature=g-user-u

Engine itself - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLWU3

*delete M i k e u p delete*

1/3 epoxy-1/3hardener-1/3 alcohol ( rubbing) lol. Don't water dowm.

Forthcoming

Im doing a small fiberglassing test tonight on a peice of spair foam board tonight. I want to make sure I dont melt the foam hull. I'll put one picture of the front angle I plan on using for the real hull. Please let me know what you guys think.
I'll aslo post a few pictures of what I put togeather last night! I couldn't wait for the real hull to be done so I glued this togeather! Something for just playen around in the house as I wait!

Thanks for all the help so far!

Forthcoming

Ok the test foam has been in room temperature for about 8 hours and its still soft ( it's hard but in that tacky stage ). I would have thought that it would be hardend by now. The good news is the foam didn't melt!!!! Will this harden to a point that I can sand? I'm using a 60 min epoxy so I have more then enough time to make sure I get it the way I'd like. I have never really fiberglassed befor so i was wondering if their was a easy way to do this!!!!! I have only repaired full sized boats and never on something with such a curve.

These are the steps I know for doing this.
1. sand area to be glassed
2. Cut and fit the fiberglass.
3. Mix the 1/3 epoxy 1/3 hardener 1/3 rubbing alcohol.
4.. Place the epoxy mix over the fiberglass and "paint" it into the area to be glassed untill all areas are clear.
5. Wait until hardend and cut off extra glass and sand.
6. Paint

dadkins

You got it - that is exactly how I would do it.
As far as Your front angle - looks a little steep - I would do a bit more sanding and make that trasition smoother-longer.
Looks Good!

*delete M i k e u p delete*

I should have mentioned to use 5 or 10 minute epoxy.60 minute will take awhile and if you have a grow light in basement will help cure faster. There's one fact, it will be hard.

Forthcoming

Sounds good I already glassed the bottom haha so I guess ill use this as a good learning experience and keep this hull for the house and what not!! I'll make a new hull that's better for water. Now that I look at it I would say its to steep as well. BTW whats a "grow light'? Like for fish tank plants?

*delete M i k e u p delete*

Grow light- for plants in the winter time whom spend the summers outside and start on timers at sunrise and shut down at sunset. They set off enough heat over a period of time. Make sure the bottom is flat the whole way and the wings are square to transom. The best small airboat is made in Florida at 16 3/4" long and a blast to run. Google for info. As of now , i'm taking cancer treatments and haven't alot of pep to get out.. Your wings should be vertical and motor should be vertical. You worked real hard on this project. Bottom side edges should be round at least 3/32'. The rake at front the distance from transom to where rake starts should be equal or it won't track straight. Rake is where it starts to curve upward. Now for sanding- take a 2 x2 that is flat and sand lenghtwise with fairly course sandpaperfor the bottom and gradually go to fine. Get a few dust masksfir mouth and eyes and gloves.

Forthcoming

I have no idea what the rake is   I'm guessing I should start the curve at the front of the boat at around the middle of the hull? The sides should be vertical with a light sanding on the bottom edges.