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  1. #1

    Carbon 'Selph Inflicted' SI3-60

    A few here may be interested in this project. A Carbon/Ply/Glass version of Chris Selph's clever design hydro from It's going to be a picture thread mostly, but if you want to know any details just ask

    Where I am:

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  2. #2

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    lakehamilton, FL
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    Looks like something Batman would drive !! Nice work ! I bet that CF cost a little bit

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by jetG23 View Post
    Looks like something Batman would drive !! Nice work ! I bet that CF cost a little bit

    It's offcuts from my workplace, I laminated it into a working sheet, so fortunately the ready to cut sheet worked out cheaper than Birch Ply, of which every piece I looked at was warped, hence going this way, it's pretty flat :

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  5. #5

  6. #6
    Construction finished. I've now got to shift to making the hardware, and starting the painting. Controls fit out will go on in between, need the rudder to be made first.

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  7. #7
    A couple of rudder blade options:
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  8. #8
    Rudder nearing completion:

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  9. #9
    Rudder finished, and turn fin bracket made:
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  10. #10
    Great work Jeremy ! ! ! Fantastic effect.
    Grettings From Poland

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  11. #11
    I'm truly envious over your gear, fantastic. Do you mill/design them your self?

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by arcdude View Post
    I'm truly envious over your gear, fantastic. Do you mill/design them your self?
    Yes, all my own work as we used to say in school . Commercial rudders are what they are, but there's a lot I don't like about them, I looked at the recommended rudder and it's over 40 delivered, which galls me as that's enough material to make dozens of rudders, so a couple of evenings work to get this. I'm going to re-anodise it, I'm not happy with the finish and it's easy enough to fix, I've got to anodise some other parts so I'll stick the rudder in the process. Then I'll be happy with it.

    There's a bit of thought in the design. Looking at others there's a variety of bearing arrangements and I went for a 'top hat' bush setup. I've used Delrin for now, but it's easy to make up other materials into bearings for this depending on how this stuff fayres. I wanted to avoid metal to metal contact so a polished stainless pin is held by a grub screw against a flat to retain it, but mostly to ensure the shaft rotates in the bearing, not the rudder. The shaft is supported in two places on the rudder side, so there's a large spread of load. It bottoms out just above the rudder blade groove, so that it can be pushed up to remove from below. I've tried to make the bearing surfaces as big and as spread as far apart as I can for this size. I've opted for a push pull control arrangement with a single control horn because I'm using a rigid carbon rod for the link to the servo, an Alturn USA 750MG, so a strong link and servo.

    So a milling machine for most of the work, but the compound curved shape of the rudder stock had to be done off-hand on a table disc sander, as did the radius ends in the 'hinge' (don't have the right sized cutter), and a lathe to make the pin and bearings. Apart from the lathe work this could have been reasonably made using hand tools and a drill.

    There is one more part for the rudder to come which I've not made yet, which is a simple load spreader. All of the strut rudders I've seen use angle brackets to bolt to the transom, this spreads the load. Mine is the strut arm straight on to the transom, so I'm putting in 'fitted' studs which will locate through a plate inside the transom, so effectively those side loads on the rudder will be transmitted to the internal plate hence spreading the load on the other side of the transom. It'll give me a neat looking butt end and reduce sealing needs a lot.

    The important bit, the blade, was one of a variety of Carbon/Glass layups I've been playing with. It's seriously rigid and profiled to reduce drag. The wedge rudder thing does my head in and I've not seen any science behind it, proper sections for me. From a sheet of laminate it takes about 15 minutes to make a rudder, so a total loss is not a problem, and it does seem that the carbon dominant surface gives me nice friction levels without much wear, I've cycled the rudder up and down hundreds of times and it feels the same as when it went in. With water present friction does not change. Currently the blade is known to be too big, a junior hacksaw and a Swiss file is all that's needed to tweek it down in the field.

    I'll be using carbon for the turn fin, but that's a complete unknown to me so that's gonna be fun

  13. #13
    Started the painting process. Just a heavy coat of 2K lacquer for now to seal the CF after some repairs to pores.

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  14. #14
    Hi Jeremy, I noticed the engine above is that a 60 TT? Just looking at the material used for the construction it looks heavy, do you have an estimated weight of the boat? Did you purchase the plan, I've seen some video's of them running and they are quite impressive.

  15. #15
    The engine is an SC 61A, the same motor by Son's flatty has. It's a budget ABC motor but the performance has been great on his. I'll look at other motor options if the boat works as planned.

    The original drawing spec is for 1/4" and 1/8" Birch ply. Because I couldn't get any big or flat enough I've used 6mm Marine Ply faced with glass and CF to bring it up to the 1/4". Hand in hand comparisons tell me this laminate is lighter than the birch ply in the same epoxy coated condition. I'm using a smaller than recommended fuel tank, mini servo for the throttle, and my rudder assembly is two thirds the weight of the recommended one (66g as apposed to 100g for the recommended Speedmaster 21 mono). I'm on target for a boat that'll be lighter than a true to spec version.

    The build is being compared to Crispy's successful boat, his is 8lb 9oz, so whatever happens so long as it's inside that I know it'll be fine. This is that boat (this is a long but interesting vid, it allows you to watch one of these under way more closely):

    I'm well into the painting process now with a first coat of primer on the coloured sections. All being well I'll get some colour on tomorrow.
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  16. #16
    Nice vid too bad there aren't more like it, it sure gives a proper perspective into a boats running characteristics. What paint are you using on your boat and just out of curiousity how wide are the ride pads and are they a flat or curved surface?

  17. #17
    I'm using solvent type 2K Automotive.

    Ride pads are 2 1/4" wide in the wetted area. The drawing shows them as curved, but mine have a flat on the last 2" or so, the tub is 5" wide.

  18. #18
    oh by the way, to answer your question I missed, I bought the plan from:

  19. #19
    Main colour coats on

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    The aim is to get to something like this~:

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    Last edited by Jeremy_H; 04-13-2014 at 07:55 AM.

  20. #20
    I'm not familiar with that brand of paint, sure looks good so far. That is real bright, shouldn't be any issue seeing it in the water, are you using stick on graphics or is it going to be painted?

  21. #21
    It's regular two-pack Acrylic paint, paint and a catalyst. Nasty stuff to be honest, it has to be respected. There's a safer water based equivalent now, I must look into that.

    Sometimes I use stickers, sometimes paint. the effect from viewing distances is just the same. But I do like having flat surfaces in my lacquer, and as I'm enjoying some new means and materials that's made painting them a lot easier for me now, I'll be going that way. I can flat out the surface between lacquer stages.

  22. #22
    I'm lacking in experience in doing graphics and may pick your brain a little when I get to that point, I will be doing it myself, only way to get experience. How many coats do you have thus far? It does look nice!

  23. #23
    There's two coats of Lacquer on the carbon surfaces, and the coloured bits are two coats of primer filler flatted in between, and two coats of wet on wet colour, except where it's gone over carbon where it's one coat of primer and the two colour.

    Ask away when it comes to graphic stuff, I've done it the basic way of hand cut masks very many times and it's possible to get first glass results with simple techniques and Aerosol paints.

  24. #24
    I've had to back pedal a bit due to some incompatible paint, but back on track now for a finish to construction this week. This pic is part way through the signwriting. Just the main white lettering and tribal stripes to go then it can be final lacquered.

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  25. #25
    Is the writing done with a stencil to give an outline or are they decals?

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