NEW222

Thanks. I was worried about the propeller, but just checked and it is a 10". You had me worried as I already had to build up the engine mounting plate to accept the 10" prop. I have approximately 1/2" of clearance between the prop and deck now.

Just another question about the finishing of this. Do I need to glass the hull for more strength, or would the polyurethane be good enough. Sorry I was not more clear in the last post. Thank you.

1QwkSport2.5r

If your construction is sound and all of the joints are water tight, then the urethane is fine. If you think there's a possibility it might leak, you should seal the outer sheeting of the hull with epoxy or polyester resin. One to two thinned coats should suffice, then put one coat of a satin or matte polyurethane on top after a good scuffing and you should be good to go. Polyurethane will seal the hull adequately, but not until you have 4-6 coats built up.

NEW222

Ok, thank you for that. It is exactly what I was looking for. I will heed on the premise and do one coat of Polyester Resin, the follow up with the Polyurethane just to be safe as this is my first airboat, and them tiny pinholes can show up anywhere. Thanks again.

NEW222

Ok. Sorry for the long delay, but these past few weeks have been very busy for me, and will continue to be busy for at least a couple more. But, I have made some progress yet again. My airboat is now pretty much complete now. I have just a couple more little spots to touch up, and if all goes well, I would like to have it complete and ready to start the refinishing process by the weekend, but none-the-less I will get a start for sure on Saturday. As pictured the airboat hull minus the hatch (just has to be cut out), receiver, and fuel tank, the weight sits at 4 pounds 15 ounces. She is a bit porky I think, but this is my first airboat, so I am not too sure. Due to this, I will be just using Minwax Polycrylic oil based varnish. I will put on a couple of coats to seal it and may do a 'misting' of color (speckled style) followed by another couple coats of varnish mainly on the hull and sides. Following that, I will just have to install the electronics and fuel tank then go have fun!

NEW222

Forgot to add the picture. My bad.

1QwkSport2.5r

Looks good! FWIW - Minwax Polycrylic finish (blue/black can) is water based finish. I have used it, but it's a horrible product. You're better off with the regular Minwax Polyurethane oil modified polyurethane (black/gold can). Use satin or matte sheen, and do at least 3 thin coats.

Paulekins

looking good

NEW222

Thank you for the compliments.

NEW222

Ok, I have to ask. Firstly, I am using the black silver can oil modified clear gloss. Why do you recommend the satin or matte sheen? I was thinking that the shiny glossy surface would be best.

And just another little update. I now officially have a lot more work on my plate now that had unfortunately crept upon my lap, so free time for the next 8 weeks will be at an absolute minimum. But for the good news. While my life recently turned upside down on me, I had a few minutes to sand the excess epoxy from yesterday night and I did manage to put on 2 coats of the clear gloss so far tonight with 1 more before I go to bed. I got these coats on the bottom of the hull, both sides of both engine pylons, and the inside areas of the pylons. My plan was getting 3 coats on the upper deck tomorrow through Saturday and letting sit a couple of days to dry and harden, followed by a sanding and finish up with a couple more coats to add gloss to the complete hull. But I will now await an explanation of the matte or satin in case I need a different product.

1QwkSport2.5r

The flat sheen is more slippery than gloss sheen. Straight epoxy is straight gloss and very "sticky". Water sticks to a shinier surface than a dull one if that makes sense. I use 2-3 coats of epoxy with a final sanding and then coat over the epoxy with a high build satin water based hardwood floor finish. The surface is so slick it's not funny. I gained 5mph easily when I put the satin finish on it versus the gloss epoxy finish. Water based finish tends to give a more slippery final finish than oil base does, but oil base is more water resistant.

NEW222

Ok, thank you. Would it be best to pick up a small can of the matte or satin, or would it be the same if I wet-sanded the gloss using 400-800 sandpaper? Sorry for the questions, but would like to get this right. Thank you again.

1QwkSport2.5r

All the gloss sheen does is slows it down. Shiny surfaces have more friction than dull surfaces. It wouldn't hurt to try it with the gloss finish, but if it were me, I'd put a final coat of satin on it. I don't know if Minwax makes a matte sheen finish.

NEW222

No matte sheen, but they do have a satin finish.

1QwkSport2.5r

Then use that. I figured Minwax didn't make a matte. Not many oil poly companies make a matte sheen. We used to use Glitsa finish at work, but their oil finish scratched too easily. They do make an oil matte finish though.

I do wood floors for a living, so I have access to some of the best finishes on the market. The stuff I use for top coats dries so slippery it's not funny. The deforming agents are a form of silicone IIRC. It's too bad it would be such a hassle to send you some - it's crazy good stuff.

NEW222

Ok, so here is where I am at today now. Just to mount the engine permanently, hook up the controls, mount the fuel tank then have at her. I will definitely have it going by July 1st!

Paulekins

lookin good

NEW222

Ok. Just a couple of things to tidy up and she will be ready to go. Just a hatch and permanently install the receiver and battery pack then balance and put it in the tub! Getting excited now and cannot wait until next weekend to give it a run. I also added a little safety strap for the engine. Pictures to come this weekend.

NEW222

Almost forgot that i also have to install the fuel tank. My goal is to come in under 6 pounds and hopefully at 6 pounds will still perform well.

NEW222

Ok. So all is complete now. I had to add an extension for the fuel tank on the rear of the engine pylon. All controls are hooked up, and I have decided to use my Dx5e radio with Orange Rx, BEC and 500mAh LiPo battery. The only thing NOT pictured is my hatch. Total weight as seen, but including hatch, is 5 lbs 8 oz. The only thing NOT included in the weight is the 8 screws I will be using to tighten down the hatch, and with that said, shouldn't make that much of a difference. Also pictured is my engines 'safety cable' that I made and installed. I am worried that if things don't go well, it is also mounted to the lowest available part of the engine pylon. It is made with and crimped with stainless steel fishing leader in 30 pound braided stainless steel wire. I make my own tackle so this was rather quick. Anyways, it has been a good day. The only thing I am not yet sure on is mounting my 'on-off switch'. Is it safe to cut a hole in my hatch for the switch, or will it possibly let water in? Or is there a way to waterproof the switch? Thanks again.

NEW222

Here are the pictures.

NEW222

I forgot to mention that it also balances at 8 to 8 1/4 inches from the transom.

1QwkSport2.5r

Looks good! Post a video when you run it if you can.

Paulekins

looks very good just one question why are your rudders only controlling half of what the propeller is putting out
also what size engine are you using

1QwkSport2.5r

You don't need the rudders to be in the whole air stream, though it will help give better control and steering response.

Paulekins

thats what i thought