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New Builder/First Air Boat

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Old 02-24-2017, 06:31 AM
  #26
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Here is is on stand. (I did not run it inside!!)
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Old 02-24-2017, 06:32 AM
  #27
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And thanks for your input on keeping the design basic on our first run.
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Old 02-24-2017, 07:05 AM
  #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trapper7 View Post
Here is is on stand. (I did not run it inside!!)

Perfect. I'd suggest running 1/4-1/2 gallon through it to seat the ring before putting it on the boat. Until that ring seats, it may be temperamental... I run my ringed engines in right at the 2/4 stroke break - I like it to run so it just occasionally misses. I run 3-4 tanks like that at WOT, then set the idle mixture for good low idle and transition and then lean the top end slightly so it's a clean 2-stroke for another few tanks. I prefer to make sure the engine is going to be reliable before launching it on the pond. I've had a few engines let me down - one flamed out on me and as luck had it - the wind blew it across the lake..... A guy took his fishing boat out and went to get my RC boat... Yeah, that wasn't much fun.
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Old 02-24-2017, 11:41 AM
  #29
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I had it out just now on stand. Ran 1/2 a tank through low to mid idle, kept shutting off. I have the needle valve at two turns open approx. Guess it just needs time to break in? Starts pretty easy.
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Old 02-24-2017, 01:27 PM
  #30
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It will not break in at low throttle. It must be run WOT and rich. Open the main needle valve one more turn. Fire the engine up, leave the glow driver connected, and take it to WOT. Once at wide open, Richen the needle further so it slows down and is very smokey and burbly. Now lean the needle down so you hear it start to run faster and faster. When you get to the point the engine sounds like it's running in two-tone mode (fluctuating between two and four stroke running), lean it a little more until it's running fairly clean with the occasional miss (4-stroke). Run here (at WOT) for 3-4 tanks of fuel. Now set your idle mixture for good low idle and quick and clean transition to WOT. Then go back to WOT and lean it down just so the miss goes away and run like this 2-4 tanks. This should get you about 30-40% ring seating. The rest of the breaking in should be on the boat. HB engines are fantastic engines - it's an engine that needs a couple gallons of fuel to break in fully. Don't cut corners breaking in. Use fuel with low nitro and lots of oil too - I religiously use 25% castor for breaking in, however an castor/synthetic oil blend at 23-27% is fine too.
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Old 02-24-2017, 01:44 PM
  #31
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Thank you, just the advice i was looking for. Another thing: It appears at times the fuel in the tank is getting "frothy", and not sure why. Perhaps due to vibration? If so, do you put any padding under the tank? The tank has the outlet feed to the engine and the hose from the muffler connected, and I tightened the screw in the center of the bung so I dont thing its getting air into the tank that way. The frothing I believe is getting air bubles into the line. (yes, I am kinda new at all this).
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Old 02-24-2017, 02:04 PM
  #32
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It's bubbling due to vibration. You need to ensure the propeller is balanced and you need to have the fuel tank padded. I like the Dubro prop balancer - it works well and is very accurate. For fuel tank padding - I use pad for under carpeting. I usually wrap the tank with the pad and ziptie it to the engine mount. I will snap a picture to show you what I mean.
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Old 02-25-2017, 01:47 AM
  #33
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Thanks, I applied the padding and no more froth. I cycled 2 tanks through WOT, my ears are ringing!
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Old 02-25-2017, 02:06 AM
  #34
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This is the fuel i have at the moment: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 02-25-2017, 04:41 AM
  #35
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Quote:
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Thanks, I applied the padding and no more froth. I cycled 2 tanks through WOT, my ears are ringing!
I would highly recommend ear plugs or ear muff type hearing protection when running your engine on the test bench. Engines can be deafening. Here's a video of one of my most prized engines... The video doesn't do justice to how loud it was. It was over 120Db. https://youtu.be/4CEaZ2M2XsU

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This is the fuel i have at the moment: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That is good fuel, but way too much nitro for that old HB engine. You will want a fuel with 10% nitro or less - 5% nitro and 22-25% oil would be better. The higher oil only for the first gallon or two. It helps with seating the ring. For normal running, I'd use 5-10% nitro and 20% oil with that oil having at least some castor in it. Many European engines are not designed to use a lot of nitro due to its high cost and low availability in Europe at the time the engine was designed. That engine would probably run good without any nitro even; however the needle valve is easier to set with a little nitro in the fuel. Here's a test review of your engine. Towards the bottom left of the page they talk about the fuel they used to test the engine. http://sceptreflight.com/Model%20Eng...&%2040PDP.html

Whereabouts do you live?

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Old 02-25-2017, 09:23 AM
  #36
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Thanks for the input. I live in ALbany NY
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Old 02-25-2017, 09:41 AM
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WHere might i purchase some 5% nitro and 22-25% oil? What brand?
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Old 02-25-2017, 01:10 PM
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The tough part with buying fuel online is paying hazmat fees. If you buy in quarts, you avoid the hazmat fee but still pay regular shipping. This fuel is very good: http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmar...ntF.html?E+Sig

If you have a decent pharmacy, they should have castor oil in the laxative section. Provided it has no additives, you could "spike" regular fuel with more oil. If you got 10% nitro fuel with 20% oil and added 4oz oil to the jug, your nitro will drop to about 7% and oil up to 22-23% approximately. OR if you're into glow engines for the long run, you could source methanol locally and order oil and nitro online to mix your own fuel from scratch. Then you can get exactly what you want without the extra additives that aren't needed anyway. This is what I've been doing for several years now. Nitro is around $50/gal, castor can be had for around $17/gal and Klotz synthetic oil for around $40/gal. All of these figures do not include shipping.
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Old 02-25-2017, 01:28 PM
  #39
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I'll ask my local hobby store if they have it in stock. I ran another tank through but then had trouble starting it. I have a hot shot starter. how long should one of those last on a full charge? The needle valve is also pretty stiff and i wonder if that's normal?
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Old 02-25-2017, 01:30 PM
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Esp when i am trying to adjust it with the engine running its interesting with the valve being so stiff!
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Old 02-25-2017, 03:32 PM
  #41
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Quote:
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I'll ask my local hobby store if they have it in stock. I ran another tank through but then had trouble starting it. I have a hot shot starter. how long should one of those last on a full charge? The needle valve is also pretty stiff and i wonder if that's normal?

If you're heating the plug for a short time only, it should last awhile. Easily a dozen starts or more. I find it best to charge it just before I need to use it - ie: the night before. Most wall chargers take 6-8hrs to charge it completely. If it was new when you started using it, it can take a dozen charge/discharge cycles to get to full capacity.

Are you using an electric starter or hand flipping to start it?

Can you post a picture of the carburetor on your engine? I'm guessing it's the HB carb and not the Perry. You'll know which it is because the Perry is plastic.
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Old 02-25-2017, 05:12 PM
  #42
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Looks plastic to me, guess a Perry? if i remove the glow plug and connect the hotshot, i assume i should be able to see the glow-plug coil go red?
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Old 02-25-2017, 05:17 PM
  #43
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That is the HB carb. The body of the carb is aluminum. Those needle valves are tough to turn. My .61 is a pain too. It should loosen up with running. As to the glow plug - it should glow bright orange; however it might be contaminated from the break-in process. It's not uncommon to burn a plug up during break-in. I'd get another couple glow plugs just in case. What kind of plugs are you using?
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Old 02-25-2017, 05:23 PM
  #44
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The black part of the carb appears to be plastic, i can (carefully) carve it with a knife. I assume the plug is original. I have an extra FOX GLO-PLUG. Would that work?
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Old 02-25-2017, 05:28 PM
  #45
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And we just tried connecting the HOT SHOT to the new plug and it glows like crazy...guess we cooked the old one!
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Old 02-25-2017, 05:46 PM
  #46
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You have the HB carb - the logo is cast into the front. Here's my .61.

The Fox plug should work. If the element is shiny and chrome looking, the plug should be good. If it's hazy looking, it's probably on its way out.
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Old 02-25-2017, 05:55 PM
  #47
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FRom what i can see the old plug is dead, no glow at all. Heres another pic from the front of the carb. pretty sure it is plastic coated at least.
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Old 02-25-2017, 05:59 PM
  #48
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Looks like the FOX plug is discontinued. Whats another good option? I want to have a back up plug.
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Old 02-25-2017, 06:02 PM
  #49
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Quote:
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FRom what i can see the old plug is dead, no glow at all. Heres another pic from the front of the carb. pretty sure it is plastic coated at least.
If the old plug doesnt glow at all and the new one does, toss the old one and use the new one. As for the carb - it isnt a Perry, so it doesnt matter. AFAIK the HB carbs are aluminum bodied and anodized, however I dont know for sure if they made some out of plastic.... I believe Perry used plastic exclusively and is one of the only companies that did.... The HB carb is very good - it works very well and is very easy to set,
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Old 02-25-2017, 06:04 PM
  #50
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Quote:
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Looks like the FOX plug is discontinued. Whats another good option? I want to have a back up plug.
Enya #3 is fantastic, McCoy MC59 works great, or Merlin red (Hot) are good. I use Enya 3 and McCoy MC59 predominantly.
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