trapper7

K thanks. I agree its not a PERRY. I will order plugs tomorrow. I think starting the engine will be a lot easier tomorrow as well. I want my son to be able to do it (with some good oversight!)

1QwkSport2.5r

Are you hand flipping it or using an electric starter? If you master the backflip method, you'll almost never cut your fingers or get your knuckles whacked.. If you watched the video I linked to a few posts back, you'll see how I basically whacked the prop with my finger backwards (clockwise) and the engine fired... That is my preferred method although I do use a starter from time to time. The trick to the backflip working is having the engine primed just right. Usually 2-3 flips with the carb plugged (with a finger) and set to idle is usually enough (once fuel is at the carb).

trapper7

The backflip method is a new one for me. I have been using a chicken stick since the sharp edge of the prop got me a couple times! We do have an elec starter as well. I'll have a look at your vid.

trapper7

Just looking online, it appears I have this engine: http://sceptreflight.com/Model%20Eng...P%20Blitz.html
The Chrome version, otherwise called the Blitz. Some differences.

1QwkSport2.5r

The PDP letters are black for the standard PDP engine and the PDP blitz will have red PDP letters I believe. You can tell which version you have if you look at the piston ring on the piston through the exhaust port. The standard engine will have a Dykes ring which will be at the very top of the piston. The Blitz engine has a chromed steel liner (harder to tell the difference) and the piston has a very narrow standard compression ring down a couple millimeters from the crown. The pic below is a PDP Blitz piston/liner as well as the HB .61 Dykes. The Blitz is a little more powerful than the standard PDP with dykes ring, but generally dykes rings are better for higher rpm duty.

The breaking in routine is the same for both, but how you prop the engines will be different. The Blitz you'll want to prop a tiny bit lighter than the standard PDP. I'd suggest a 10x5 or on the high side a 10x6.

1QwkSport2.5r

The backflip works great - sometimes when the engine is already warm you may still need to prime it for one maybe two flips before lighting the plug and back flipping the prop. If I am hand starting (like I do for my diesels), then I wear a leather utility glove. I don't use MAS props very often - I prefer APC. The APC props are dangerously sharp compared to MAS, and are much nicer props. MAS are a bit more durable than APC though.

A closer-up view of the backflip method. I should have primed it one flip in this video as it didn't start with the first flick. https://youtu.be/PwL2PkjmkNs

trapper7

heading out to try the back/flip now...

trapper7

Well, it didn't start flipping...though it fired..so we started with the chicken stick. its 34F outside, perhaps why? Would you think this battery pack good for our receiver: https://www.amazon.com/Venom-1600mAh...DNCX7WTMH990XS

I would need to buy a charger of course. Kinda surprised the Spectrum didnt come with any sort of batt pack, though i guess there must be a reason.

1QwkSport2.5r

The backflip works well, but it takes practice to get the engine primed just right. Plug the carb and flip the prop a few times (set to idle). Take your finger off the carb and flip the prop through compression again. If it sounds wet and squishy, it's wet enough to backflip. If it sounds dry, give it 2-3 more flips with the carb plugged. Then flip once with carb unplugged and listen for a wet squishy sound.


That's the same type of pack I've been using. You can get a wall charger cheap or buy a better multi-chemistry charger. They run a bit chunky in the pricetag department though.. The one I have is the Hobby People Activator (80?). It will charge all lithium type packs, nickel packs, and even lead batteries. I think I paid $70 for it. I made an adapter to charge my glow driver off of it even, so it literally is the only charger I use now.

trapper7

Thank you. I know what you mean by the squishy sound. i will aim for that next time (waiting on more fuel now). On the receiver batt/charger question. The transmitter uses 4 AA batts. What I would like is a charger that can do both the receiver and the AA set. This is their cheapest one, but how would I charge the AA's? https://www.amazon.com/Venom-LiPo-Sp.../dp/B00T05IBK2

trapper7

I also really wish i could get the needle valve to be more user friendly. about worn out my fingers adjusting it; terribly stiff! Any way to loosen it some? from what I remember it was much easier when i got it first. It is REALLY stiff.

1QwkSport2.5r

If the transmitter has a charge Jack, you would just need to get or make an adapter to connect the charger to the transmitter. NiMH batteries are best charged at 1C or less - which is 10% of the capacity. So a 1600mah pack can be charged at 1.6A, but I usually charge at 1A.

1QwkSport2.5r

I would take the needle valve out of the carb (try to keep track of where it is so you can get it back in in close to the same spot) and put a few drops of fuel onto the threaded part and if you can see the o-ring, put a drop of two on it as well. When the o-rings are dry they get "sticky". If you can lube it a little bit, it will be easier to turn.

trapper7

I dont see any charge jack on the receiver, so I guess I will just have to do those batteries another way. And ill try that with the needle valve. Just didn't want to take it out without getting some advice.

1QwkSport2.5r

There won't be a charging plug on the receiver, but on the transmitter. I wouldn't put too much faith into using rechargeable AA cells in the transmitter - all of the AA NiMH cells I've tried were junk. Held a charge for half the time the usual alkaline cells do. In reality, I'd suggest just using alkaline cells in the transmitter. 2.4GHz transmitters only take 4 cells and they last a long time. I only change my transmitter cells once or twice a season - and I burn ~2 gallons of fuel a season on average.

trapper7

Thanks, that makes the battery issue clear. Still waiting on the plywood skin order! They say is is backlogged! Tough to wait.

trapper7

I cleaned the needle and its certainly better!

trapper7

But after a couple hours it seems all stiff again...i think its the O Ring

1QwkSport2.5r

If you have some cooking spray or maybe some olive oil, put a drop on the area where the o-ring is. That might loosen it up. I'd not use petroleum oil as it will cause the o-ring to swell. If I get some time later tonight, I'll pop the needle out of my carb and look at it. Mine was pretty stiff last time I ran it too.

1QwkSport2.5r

I didn't get a chance last night to look at my HB carb, but I should later today.

trapper7

I tried the Pam Spray, it loosed it up but now pretty stiff again.

1QwkSport2.5r

Try this. Look at my photos. The o-ring is in the needle valve itself. Put a little oil on that. Next, make sure the brass fitting the needle valve threads into is polished smooth and shiny.

trapper7

yes, thats exactly like mine.I will try it again tomorrow. it is definitely the o-ring thats tight.

1QwkSport2.5r

If you have a dremel with a felt wheel and a little jewelers rouge, you could polish that stub on the carb that the o-ring fits over and then lightly oil the o-ring. On a good note, it's good that the o-ring is tight - that means it won't leak fuel when the engine is running... BUT too tight and the needle valve is hard to adjust. It's a bit of a catch-22. A light polish and a drop of oil (remember - no petroleum oils) and you should be good to go. I wouldn't work it too much as it will get looser with time.

trapper7

Thanks. If it wasnt so close to the prop it wouldnt be such an issue either. I'll lube it later today. I'll hold off on the dremel today.