1QwkSport2.5r

You could if you so choose - to add a remote needle valve and mount it farther away from the prop. Just open the needle valve on the carb to a crazy rich setting and use the remote needle to set the mixture. I like to think I'm fairly experienced with engines but I still get my knuckles knicked by the spinning prop when setting the needle valve from time to time.

trapper7

OK, I just applied Olive Oil vs/ Pam and so far it seems a lot better. Time will tell. Now the focus turns to building the darn thing! Gonna be fun.

trapper7

My son and I had a blast last night finally gluing the frame together, and the 1/16 ply came so thats next.

trapper7

One thing in the back of my mind now is the servo links to the rudder and throttle; I want to get that done right the first time...never done it.

1QwkSport2.5r

I like to use Sullivan gold-n-rods myself - usually pn: S508. It has the brass plated .056" cable and 2-56 hardware. The brass played cable can be soldered and you just glue the sheath into your boat hull. I always sand the outside of the sheath to give the glue something to grab onto. I'll see if I can find one of my build threads showing how I installed the control cables. https://www.sullivanproducts.com/GoldnRodContent.htm

Some guys prefer the all nylon control cables - they work fine as well.

trapper7

OK thanks. i hope to make progress this weekend!

1QwkSport2.5r

Awesome! Good luck!

trapper7

progress, got exciting as the epoxy set quick!

trapper7

Well, got the two sides on. We held them in place till the EXPOXY set. Good exercise in patience! Note rubberbands, my sons idea

trapper7

OK I need som tech advice: the VENOM batt i got...the plug on it doesnt match the receiver. Any wisdom? See pics, and there is a tab that if it wasnt there the batt plug would fit into the receiver i think.

1QwkSport2.5r

Use a shart Xacto knife or utility knife and shave off that little L-shaped tab on the edge of the plug. The battery has what I think is a Futaba plug and the receiver takes a JR/Spektrum plug. Taking that little tab off allows it to fit. I do the same thing.

trapper7

OK thanks, that is what my son wanted to do. So the voltage will be fine?

1QwkSport2.5r

Those receivers handle a good range of voltage - a 5-cell NiMH pack is perfect. I think they will take a 2-cell LiPo too.

NEW222

Looks good. Will be nice when finished.

trapper7

Perhaps a dumb question: do we need the antennae to protrude from the boat? If so whats the best way to do this?

1QwkSport2.5r

Yes, have the antenna as high as possible. Use an antenna tube for a mono hull boat. The plastic tube glues into a metal base that uses a nut on the backside that essentially clamps to the sheeting. I can post a pic of what I mean after work.

trapper7

OK thanks. And if you can link me to where to order one that would be cool. I did a quick search but no luck.

1QwkSport2.5r

This is even easier. The aluminum base is bolted to the hull and the antenna tube is glued into the base. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hull-mou...tenna-set.html

trapper7

Thanks, i have one on order via eBay. That one comes from HONG KONG! (Long delivery)

trapper7

Progress! Plenty of skill sets to learn on a build like this. Great father son time!

trapper7

Guy at my hobby shop told me not to worry about extending antenna. ( i have a tube and nut assemly coming). But any thoughts? said it would give no issues.

1QwkSport2.5r

It's never a guarantee. I've run boats with and without the antenna above the deck (2.4GHz) and didn't have any problems, but your range may be inhibited some if the antenna isn't in a tube. I run a Spektrum 2.4ghz radio and I use marine specific receivers in my boats. Spektrum marine receivers use two antennas that they use together to get the best reception and range. I put the long one in the antenna tube and the other inside the radio box (one antenna is longer than the other).

When it it comes to boats - I'd not leave anything to chance. I run my antenna as high as I can.

trapper7

Glassing...

1QwkSport2.5r

Looking good. Just watch out for those bubbles. They're kind of a pain to fix once the resin cures.

trapper7

Thanks, yes the bubbles are a pain. My first ever glassing so its been fun. i am figuring to just do one layer except on the nose, sound ok?