trapper7

HAHA Yes we have an inflatable kayak.

trapper7

Do you install 'off' switches in your receiver/servo box cover? (To avoid unscrewing the lid).

1QwkSport2.5r

I have, but if the switches aren't waterproof, water will get into the switch and short it out. shorting the switch turns the receiver on and later corrode the switch internally too. Lately I've been omitting the switch and just plugging battery into receiver.

trapper7

The boat is a winner! Took an hour to figure out how to steer and get decent control. Up on plane she FLIES!! Bust one prop when it partially flipped and the blades hit the roll cage. We ran it for 2 hours.

OK: now some advice needed...luckilly this happened on shore, but suddenly the throttle servo decided to go all the way wide open all on its own. Could this happen if there is some moisture around (there was some water in the batt/servo compartment) Or would the servo be bad? It was nutz. had to pull the gas line off to shut her down. Out on the lake it would have been a smashed boat. Any clues what went wrong?

1QwkSport2.5r

Servos tend to go baddy when they get wet. I would highly recommend making the radio box as water tight as possible and I'd even go so far as to use some silicone sealant around all of the seams and wire harness of the servo and case. Make it impossible for moisture to get into those vital components.

trapper7

Thank you. I opened up the one causing issues and their was definite moisture inside...

1QwkSport2.5r

Yeah, I figured you would. The potentiometers don't like being wet. Usually if you pop the servo open and let it dry, the servo should be okay to use again. Just do some thorough testing before putting it back on the water.

FWIW - if you have it happen again where she goes full throttle with no response from the transmitter, just let it get going at a good clip and cut it left or right to flip the boat. If the steering goes to crap, just kill the engine and go retrieve.

trapper7

Wow, yeah we had it running on a lake in the park by our house and we were imagining what would have happened if she had gone crackers out on the water!! would have been some high action with several hundred people watching. (busy park)

NEW222

Good job. Sounds like you're having fun. I had mine out late last week in the yard on dry grass. It goes, but slowly, then like he$# when it gets going. It even got air while losing control, going through my garden, and disassembling 2 and running over another raspberry bush! Mama was not a happy camper.....

trapper7

Question: as you know the crank shaft protrudes through the prop, then through the washer and then the nut holds it all together. Just seems there is not a lot of depth of thread into the nut. if I remove the washer that's a lot better...but the washer seems important, or?

NEW222

Personally, I would leave the washer. I have run engines before without the washer, but would not recommend it as the washer spreads the load out over a bigger area than the nut.

1QwkSport2.5r

Get rid of the nut and washer and switch to a spinner nut. Way better than the stock OEM nut/washer. I do this on nearly all of my engines.

trapper7

Could you post the link for the correct one? would this be the right one: https://www.amazon.com/Great-Planes-...ds=spinner+nut

1QwkSport2.5r

That one will work and I do have some like that, but I prefer this style better: Dubro - 730 Spinner Prop Nut 1/4-28 - 730 - Active Powersports

trapper7

ordered! thanks.

his

Servo, just use corrosion - X for servo internals and heavily grease the horn and ca the seams should waterproof the servo but nothing is perfect/Also the subject of using airplane escs for boat usage can be solved with a Pistix product from Offshoreelectic boat site under esc accessories. I have them and work great. Price is almost $20.00 What RPM typed about rpm of outrunner is spot on 1500-1600 kI have pullers on 3S. This site for airboats has a lot of info ! Forgot- Make a kill switch like the Europeans use in airboat cover which will leave cover or lid sealed and taped and all you have to so is insert the connection made of 12 gauge wire and round connectors. Hope I didn't wear out my posting as I wanted cover a few things. I have several airboats and monos! LOL! I'm talking electric, not gas!

1QwkSport2.5r

I wouldn't recommend using CA glue on the servo case seams nor using C-X inside the servo. If the potentiometer gets wet with anything, it's going to either not work very well or at all. Leave the CA glue for the puddly stuff that doesn't require superb strength and put the C-X into the engine instead. Much better idea.

his

Why not, as I have never had one problem with c-x inside and as far as ca on seams to help seal in 25 years. I don't know where you get the strength bit, that doesn't add up . Your talking gas and i'm talking electric. Andy Kunz told of this back in the 90". That's why c-x is used to so when it does get wet c-x takes care of it by it's oily mixture, correct. To each his own, have it your way! I won't change! Servo can be a problem if gears are plastic but I've not had that issue. When they get old, I shot them, they're not expensive unless your diamond dave who likes high end and can afford but for us less rich have to be satisfied with our budget. LOL!

trapper7

I dried out both servos and both work. But its weird, the Throttle port on the receiver makes whatever servo you plug in "humm", like the servo just cant be happy in whatever position its in. The steering port is quiet, if you know what I mean. What would be the cause? Perhaps an internal setting is wrong? Or a bad receiver?

his

The poster 192 makes me think this is a unfriendly site. I will ask moderator to delete my postings and my membership too. Try the esc into servo port. Do you have extra rx? I'll be back in a few hours and if you get some time to try what I typed, just post, ok! Thanks for replying!

1QwkSport2.5r

If you read any of my other postings in this thread, you would see I've been nothing but helpful. Also, this thread has nothing to do with an EP system. It is glow powered.

As for using CA glue to seal the servo case - what happens if you need to rebuild the servo? Break the case to get it apart? Doesn't make sense. RTV silicone is much better as it's easily removable, but hardly necessary if you water proof your radio box.

Lets not get all wound up because I disagreed with you. There's more than one way to skin a cat - some ways are just a little better than others.

his

Easy, just tap the case or use dremel which smooths the seam and it pops right apart. I did that and was a piece of cake. I'm still going to go thru with not posting or reading this site. Have a good life!

1QwkSport2.5r

Make sure the bushing or bearing in the top of the servo is clean and smooth. If the servo can't center itself, it will hum. Try to move the servo a little bit both ways with it plugged in and humming to see if it stops. If not, try a different servo in the same channel and see if it does the same thing.

1QwkSport2.5r

Sorry, I don't buy it. But that's okay - I don't have to. Thanks for your posts. They help others learn.

trapper7

Thank you, I i will try your input. i did try another brand new servo and it appears the Throttle port on the receiver is solely responsible for the humming (three separate servos all hum!) Any input on that?