brother

Hey all, I finished up with the mod's and took it out for a spin this morning. It looks like it gong to run great. Still a few bugs to work out, like it's hopping in turns, and too much surface area on the rudders (way too responsive in the turns). Superflea was there so while he was playing I got some pic's, there's one of my driver waving at Slayer, I think she likes him LOL. One point of interest: if you're going to designate a particular body of water as your test bed make sure it doesn't have asphalt for a bottom, this tends to leave a little road rash LOL. Brother

TERBObob

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NICE >>>>>>>>>>

What motor you running there anyway ?
Hey ... next time out ... video maybe ??? ( hint , hint , hint )

superflea

just wanted to post and say that thing runs pretty good and sorry bout the whole crash thing but geeze im an airplane guy lol but any way i think you're right either cut some off the rudders or maybe cut the servo throw to about 75% if possible but what do i know im an airplane guy and in the spirit of all self respecting airplane guys maybe a hotter motor say a BB .46 then the puddle would be too small. and yes these pics were taken in a puddle a very big puddle

brother

Hey Terbo, I've got an OS 40 LA on this boat; I think it could use a little more power. I might have to trade motors with my PC9 it has a 46FX. I also have that K&B 65 but I think it's too heavy for this boat. Does anyone know if a tuned exhaust would be worth the effort? I have a Sony Cybershot digital camera but I'm not sure if it takes good video. Brother

brother

Hey Slayer, Where're you at?? Hey... you ever here of a mono cockpit hull? My new hull is in the layout stages right now; I'm working out the dimensions. I'm thinking somewhere around 45"x 22"beam. If I use the hull design that's stuck in my head I will probably have to use a water rudder as the tunnel will be at the stern. But then if the tunnel is shallow enough maybe air rudders will still work. Here is a pic of a rudder I made about 10 years ago. Shaped it out of a piece of aluminum stock with a file and hacksaw.

Slayer-RCU

Well ran the boat on a weed choked river, it must of hit something as it rolled leaving the engine etc completely underwater... a swim later and a bit of cranking it started again. It ran alright but still dragged,.. I thinking of moving the main fuel tank forward (yep a major mod), I hope this with take some of the weight of the transom as well I am looking at fitting a high lift tailplane instead of the full moving elevators, all in the quest for more speed.

The only other problem was that the nut that holds the rear part of the muffler on, vibrated loose and the end of the muffler fell off out in the middle of the river...never to be seen again. so if anyone has a rear section of a GMS 76 muffler they are willing to part with.....or know where I can get one.

Until next time.

Slayer

pro27

So............... you got those pesky water gremlins down there too ??
Until now I thought they only lived here in the States

The red ones are bad news, but the ones you can't see are the worse

Check Tower Hobbies online, they are the distributor here in the states and you may be able to get individual parts. They do international.
It may cost for postage though (through Tower). If that is a factor, maybe have it sent to one of us on the boards and we could possibly forward it cheaper.

pro27

Slayer..........
did a quick check with USPS.
Depending on how it is packaged, it could be sent for anywhere from$5 to $11 USD to AU. If the part is avialable through TOWERS PARTS EXPRESS, they charge $4 shipping in the US, not sure about international. But wouldn't hurt to check Tower out to see what it would cost, if you can't get one from someone here.

Slayer-RCU

Pro,

Tower Hobbies have them at the grand price of $5.49 US with postage (2 to 6 weeks) $12.08 US approx although the part does qualify for the parts express postage within the US. Thats one issue solved however I still need to modify the boat.

Slayer

pro27

Slayer.............gotta love your attitude and dedication to one design...never quit ! [8D]

Slayer-RCU

This is a quick picture of the changes I am planning for the boat.... only time will tell if I have it right this time.

Slayer

open_spaces

Hey u all .. HAPPY NEW YEAR!! i'm new to this thing here but have been reading from front to back and all the info you have shared is really great, and sometimes funny like hedge mowing for the wife.

So effectively, the latest plan is actually moving the center of gravity (COG) forward. A suggestion might be to simply move the COG forward by attaching incremental test weights to the bough until the boat doesn' t flip or sinks.

Hydro Junkie

That would work in a monohull, but not a hydro. My recomendation is to move everything except the drive assembly forward and add a radio controlled canard to the front. Depending on the size of the boat, the CG on a hydro should be just behind the sponson transom. On a 1/8th scale boat(which average around 43"/110cm), the CG is approximately 1-2"/2.5-5cm behind the sponson transom. Having the CG any further aft is asking for a blowover. Also, the shoes on a full sized hydro DO NOT extend below the nontrip, even though the nontrip is below the bottom by 3-4"/7.5-10.5cms. They ARE NOT a blow over prevention tool, they are used to help get the back end of the hull up and out of the water to get the boat on plane faster and nothing more. Hope this info helps

CFRACR

Good advice HJ, was wondering when someone was going to say that.

What of the engine angle?????? (SLAYER)???

A little shim under the front lifting the front will create downforce on the bow. Have you tried this. Maybe a solution, but not sure with this hull design.