ibuildstuff

How would i attach a prop to an electric motor (550 size) motor (1/8th inch diamiter shaft)? Do i need some kinda adapator? if so where can i get one... Any information would be much appricated


Thanks.

MrMulligan

My Feedback: (314)

I got some great adapters from FMA. Hobby Lobby has them and so does Hobby People. Good luck.

ibuildstuff

are they a universal size? or all different sizes? would you happen to have any that you would want to sell me?

TERBObob

My Feedback: (21)

Jesse ,
you might want to get a gear reduction unit for EP planes .... They usually sell on that famous auction site that begins with a "E" for around $10.00
Geared down means less amperage draw on the batteries and able to swing a larger prop and also a cheaper ESC

ibuildstuff

no esc, its gonna be eaither on or off, with a switch.. the motor thats going to be used is a 5 turn personal mod @ 18 degrees timing... running gp3300 cells (8 cell packs) itll swing a 9x5 with ease... i just needed to know how to attach it..

pro27

Master Airscrew also sells prop adapters that are very strong. They also sell gear reductions. I agree with TERBObob that the amp draw will be greatly reduced using a reduction steup. Less amp draw will turn into a longer run time. Using a direct drive setup as you describe, the 3300's MIGHT give you about 2-2 1/2 minutes of on time, especially if you are only using an on-off throttle.
I also have some experience in electrics in several areas. The amp draw with a 5 turn motor is tremendous. I have a 4 cell (4.8v) mono hull with a trinity 10 turn motor that I am lucky to get 2 1/2 minute runs on. This is a comp setup and the hull really moves. Amp draw is modest. If I were to double the cells to 8 (9.6v) the amp draw would more than double. MOst on-off switches have a tendency to short their contacts together, then you have NO OFF !

IMO......I would definately go with a reduction unit, regardless if the motor could swing the prop. You also will have a severe heat problem to deal with and a possible motor melt down, or even battery damage. That is the reasom for water cooling the motor, AS WELL AS THE BRUSH HOODS . I know from experience [X(]

ibuildstuff

well ive got a TON of batteries, and a whole crap load of motors so screwin up batteries or motors really doesnt matter (it does to a point but doesnt) i have a heavy duty switch to handle the amperage and voltage draw.. Everything from a power standpoint is setup.. all i need now is the prop/adaptor and im ready to go.. if anyone has one they would like to sell me for a 1/8th shaft (motor shaft) and for a 4-5mm prop diamiter(the hole) lemmie know, i can make instant payment through paypal, and email a ups shipping label to use.

PLEASE if somone out there has one.. let me know


Jesse

TERBObob

My Feedback: (21)

Jesse ,
You might want to check with the guys on RUMRUNNERS .... they might have an extra one floating around that they would/could sell you .
( I , myself , got rid of all my electrics a LONG time ago ... tooooooo expensive - ESC's and batteries , and too short of run time . IMO )

Model_Mann

dudes using a reducer for the hole in the prop sounds a whole lot easier than what i do, all i do id wrap the motor shaft in tape, i know i Know, bad idea right?. but it works for me until the prop flies off, lmao. it also works very well cus im 16 and as broke as a mo fo,