Selph-Inflicted

This is intended for ModelMann but I thought I would put it in a new post for everyone.
I use a 4" round Rubbermaid container. On a past project, I put 2 servos, the Rx, plus the battery pack in the container. It was tight, but capable. Velcro th Rx to the underside of the lid and the battery pack in the middle of teh container. I use a two part plastic epoxy (from Wal-Mart) to stick the servos to the plastic container. It holds very well. The servos are easily removed by applying some hand pressure if you have to replace one. I used Golden Rod to run the controls. I also seal both sides of the lid where the wires penetrate. And where the golden rod went through. I no longer use the Golden Rod.
You can use a square or rectangle one if you prefer some extra space; but they are bigger and bulkier. Not as clean looking as the small round one.

I use these containers because it takes only about 30 minutes to have everything in it, Readty to go. And It is waterproof. I've never had a problem with water getting in.
Make sure you use Rubbermaid with the blue rubber around the lid.

I stuck a few servos in the container to show you how I had them. Also is a picture of how I attach my motor stand. I recess the engine stand in the foam, laminate it then glass over it. I also attach a piece in the transom that connects the engine stand to the door skin with some wood screws. I run a 46 FX and have no worries about it coming off. Partial reason for the pylons turned the way they are; this boat spends alot of time sideways. It helps reduce drag while sliding.The wood grain should be 90 degreees from what is shown. The one pictured is the prototype. The scrap wasn't long enough to make it the way it should be.

pro27

How do you cut the opening for the tub?

Before or after glassing?

Is the tub then glued into the hull?

This seams a very easy way to mount the gear in a foam hull.

Again, great idea...[8D]

Selph-Inflicted

I use a fillet knife to and a spoon to carve out the opening before I glass. I glass over the hole then trim when cured.

You can glue the bottom of the to the hull. Or just glass it in also.

It is a very fast and easy way to mount the controls. And reliable. I am yet to loose a Rx due to water damage.

I'm working on a new boat right now that has a new concept.
I'll be able to run multiple hulls with the same engine and control setup within minutes. [sm=idea.gif][sm=idea.gif]

canadianjosh

Dadaddyro it just so happens that I am working on that same concept right now. My engines and controls are all mounted up in the nacelles, everything needed to run. Unfortunatley I epoxied this to the hull. Well I am going to cut this off and on all of my hulls I will epoxy in little mounting blocks for the struts, and then attach each strut with stainless hardware.

Selph-Inflicted

Be careful...I sent the design patent registry out last week. [sm=bananahead.gif][sm=bananahead.gif][sm=bananahead.gif][sm=bananahead.gif]
I can even go from air rudder to water rudder in minutes. [sm=eek.gif][sm=eek.gif][sm=eek.gif][sm=eek.gif]