Selph-Inflicted

I've been talking about it...here it is.
Just like the subject says, multiple hulls using one set up! You can run more boats for the price of one set up!! ....except building materials for the other hulls. Remove 4 nut and bolts and the whole stand comes off, rudder too. I can also build another rudder modified for a water rudder! Completely interchangeable.

Now just got to build some other style hulls!

[sm=idea.gif][sm=idea.gif][sm=idea.gif][sm=idea.gif][sm=idea.gif][sm=idea.gif].......no telling what you may see from me next!?!?!?

pro27

This would be a great set-up (tool) for testing out new hull designs.

If the hull design in question doesn't work out, toss only the hull, reuse the pod assembly. The time spent on it's construction, hook-up time, finishing, materials and the like is not wasted.[8D]

If a hull design deserves merit to be built as a unit, it can then be easily duplicated with permanent fixtures.

A removable rudder set-up would be ideal in this case, as it would also allow different rudder shapes and sizes to be tested at the same time.

If you get a chance to browse thru my posted pics (they're everywhere) you may be able to incorporate it's principle to your unit. It basically consists of two permanent hinge points (on the pod/pylon) and a hinge rod. The rudder (blade) itself has a coresponding hinge points. Remove the rudder(radio) linkage, pull the hinge rod and the rudder is off. Reverse process for installing.

I'm currently working on a new hull, and will take pics of this easy method and post 'em.

Again, great idea with many possible uses

pro27

Here is my latest variation of the set-up I've used most.
The rudder in the pic is a boosted type rudder. This was talked about a while back in another thread. This is my variationof that idea.
Instead of using boost tabs, the rudder area in FRONT of the hinge point helps in turning the rudder. I guess it could also be termed a 'balance' rudder, but in this case, it is not a 50/50 balance in areas.

pro27

Upper and lower hinge rod bearing areas and pivot points.

The hinge rod in this case is a solid brass rod of roughly 3/32" diameter.

pro27

Upper and lower hinge rod bearings and supports. The bearings used are simply, brass eyelets of appropriate inside diameter for the hinge rod.

pro27

View of the rudder hinge tubes installed. This particular set-up uses three tubes, upper, middle and lower. However, I have used just a single long middle tube as well as just an upper and lower tube on hulls with the same success. Due to the rudder design I am going with, I beefed it up to three tubes. The tubes in this case are aluminum tubing. In the past I have used brass tubing as well as nylon pushrod sleeving. It depends on the hull and rudder size and how strong you want it to be.

(you should be able to make out all three tubes located just behind the front of the rudder)

Selph-Inflicted

Thanks Pro for the info. [sm=thumbup.gif]
The hinges are the weakest point in my engine stand. The hinges last a while but I must replace them occcasionally. I like the set up your using. I think I'll incorporate that style into my next engine stand design.

Here is a pic I found that is very basic too. I think my next set up may look similar to this.

pro27

I like the looks of that one. May be worth giving it a try.

Close to the rudder set-up I use.

rcairboat78

Here is a setup i used for a few boats, i had 4 screws for the radio box, and 4 nuts to remove for the engine stand. Worked fine, as you can see, for this boat i did not waste time with a radio compartment, which turned out good because the boat is too wide and light. It is worthwile to build a setup of this kind, saves lots of time in the long run!