As per request 2
#1
Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ludington, MI
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As per request 2
I hope this dosn't double on me.
Sorry in advance if it does...!
sirwalter........
you say the 1/2A hull is a WOF ?
Great job. How long you been doing this?????
What are the dimensions?
length...
beam...
rise...at transom bottom center to deck
angle used on the hull bottom (v)
???what make of prop is that? I've never seen one for a 1/2A with that much blade area.
That thing should provide LOTS of thrust
_____________________________
Mark
It's not a sense of humor.....It's an ATTITUDE!
K-Motion R/C Aero-Marine
Specs of the 1/2A boat.
Sorry in advance if it does...!
sirwalter........
you say the 1/2A hull is a WOF ?
Great job. How long you been doing this?????
What are the dimensions?
length...
beam...
rise...at transom bottom center to deck
angle used on the hull bottom (v)
???what make of prop is that? I've never seen one for a 1/2A with that much blade area.
That thing should provide LOTS of thrust
_____________________________
Mark
It's not a sense of humor.....It's an ATTITUDE!
K-Motion R/C Aero-Marine
Specs of the 1/2A boat.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Plainfield,
WI
Posts: 1,152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: As per request 2
sirwalter..thanks for the info
From the first pic you posted, it looked to be a 'v' hull, but it is really a flat bottom. Being a little sneaky there aren't you ?
The dimensions you show are as close to perfect as you can get for that size motor. Of all the 1/2A hulls I've built over the years (at least a dozen), I stuck with a length of around 18". Some were shorter, like yours, and they all performed well with little if any difference.
Your's should do very well the size it is...
btw.........these small hulls are perfect for using a monokote finish.
From the first pic you posted, it looked to be a 'v' hull, but it is really a flat bottom. Being a little sneaky there aren't you ?
The dimensions you show are as close to perfect as you can get for that size motor. Of all the 1/2A hulls I've built over the years (at least a dozen), I stuck with a length of around 18". Some were shorter, like yours, and they all performed well with little if any difference.
Your's should do very well the size it is...
btw.........these small hulls are perfect for using a monokote finish.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ludington, MI
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: As per request 2
I havn't used monocoat in many years.
I'm really not set-up to do monocoat.
I'm not vary good at fiberglassing either. I have to do a lot of bondo-ing.
I'm really not set-up to do monocoat.
I'm not vary good at fiberglassing either. I have to do a lot of bondo-ing.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Plainfield,
WI
Posts: 1,152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: As per request 2
Actually, these small hulls don't need to be glassed in the normal sense (w/cloth). They don't suffer through the abuse a larger hull would simply due to their extremely light weight. Also, being a WOF hull, you don't have any voids like a frame constructed hull to puncture and take on water.
Before I switched to covering these small hulls w/monokote, all I did was give the entire hull a thinned down coat of epoxy or polyester resin. Sand it down w/220 grit and give it a shot of some fuelproof paint. The resin gives the balsa some added surface strength and a tougher surface as well.
A third option would be to give it a coat of wood sealer, then apply a couple good coats of a polyurethane varnish and top coat that with your color and clear coat.
You have many options available, even more than I put down here.
Before I switched to covering these small hulls w/monokote, all I did was give the entire hull a thinned down coat of epoxy or polyester resin. Sand it down w/220 grit and give it a shot of some fuelproof paint. The resin gives the balsa some added surface strength and a tougher surface as well.
A third option would be to give it a coat of wood sealer, then apply a couple good coats of a polyurethane varnish and top coat that with your color and clear coat.
You have many options available, even more than I put down here.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ludington, MI
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: As per request 2
Thanks Mark.
The advice is priceless.
I have the hull covered with 3oz. glass.
I dought if it's any stronger than using just resin. Too late now for the hull, but I think I'll do just the resin on the deck.
Walt
The advice is priceless.
I have the hull covered with 3oz. glass.
I dought if it's any stronger than using just resin. Too late now for the hull, but I think I'll do just the resin on the deck.
Walt
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Plainfield,
WI
Posts: 1,152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: As per request 2
The 3oz cloth will give LOTS of strength. For future reference, if you do build another small hull like this, and you want to use cloth, you can go with a very light cloth, like .5 or 1oz weight. Again, these small hulls, built WOF style, or even frame construction, end up very light, which for this size engine is what you want. They will very rarely get damaged if hitting something in the water, or even on shore. They tend to bounce off things instead [X(]
Are you going rudder only? (no throttle)
Give that Cox some 25-30% nitro and let it scream. Also, make sure the fuel you use contains all, or mostly castor oil instead of synthetic. These small engines like the nitro, but burn up fast if a synth oil is used. The castor oil helps big time with the cooling as well as lubing better.
Are you going rudder only? (no throttle)
Give that Cox some 25-30% nitro and let it scream. Also, make sure the fuel you use contains all, or mostly castor oil instead of synthetic. These small engines like the nitro, but burn up fast if a synth oil is used. The castor oil helps big time with the cooling as well as lubing better.