advanced builder

You can use SIG resin from your local hobby shop. and a lite fiberglass cloth. clean all areas before resin. Are you talking about the Teflon liner? remove that. And replace that brass tube over the winter. yours looks like it could do with a new one. Joe sells a new style cable coupler. Leave enough room for a shaft saver. or a 1/4"doughnut you add /tighten on the cable you won't loose your cable out the back if your coupler slips. Add trim tabs only if the hull won't calm down with strut Adjustment. Take her out with the adjustments, keep wench handy Good luck, looks like your on your way.

glastronjohn

Thanks for the reply AB. Who's Joe? I'd like to see the new style coupler.

Last weekend I tried to run the boat. I must have done somethingvery wrong while adjusting the prop shaft angle. I didn't loosen the coupler on the motor. I tried to move the cable connection on the prop shaft. Within 30 seconds runningIlost propulsion. At least I didn’t lose the prop and shaft. I took it apart last night and found this:<o></o>

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Should I try to solder the tapered part back onto the cable or is there a better fix?

Also, when adjusting the prop angle, should Ihave loosen the coupler on the motor so that the cable can slide back?

One more, the cable is 11.5 inches long. The shortest cable I've seen for sale is 18 in. What's the standard method for cutting it down to size, solder the wire and use a jig saw?

advanced builder

that driveline could do with a upgrade. Most have a flex coupler for easy removal. The reason why the 1/4 Sq floats inside that coupler is the drive line is hard on bearings. As the prop works it has a tendency to push upwards towards that engine bearing. I've seen them do damage to the nitro engines not with gas. Some areas of the county use them some don't If your shaft cable shows signs of wear then you may need to replace. Run her as is. I just don't like removing them 2 setscrews for greasing. one should keep a 1/8-1/4" " play at the strut end. Keep up the good work. Bring your wench with you and test the strut adjustments on the water. Then you will notice a change in the ride attitude.

glastronjohn

Thanks for the explainations AB. I do appreciate the help.

I'm not too confident that I'll be able to clean this cable and furrell well enough to get solder to stick to it again. Can you point toward an example of a flex coupler or upgraded drive line? I understand if you don't want to be too specific for my application. 

glastronjohn

Would this be the proper setup?

http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....roducts_id=269 

and

http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....roducts_id=278 

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

No.
Yes.
Proper cable: http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....roducts_id=194 . The other one steps down for 3/16" prop bores.

glastronjohn

Thanks Ron,

I'm just guessing at this point. Look at the picture above in the previous post. It looks like the stub shaft I have right now is stepped down. The prop I have is a Prather 270. It has a brass insert in it right now. I'll do some measuring tonight when I get home.

Thanks again to you both.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Yes it is but I wonder why. Suitable props for a gas boat are bored for 1/4" shafts, anything that's bored for 3/16" props are going to be too small.

glastronjohn

That's good to know. I'm starting to get a better idea how this stuff goes together.