YPC

Weekend Surf Report !.......ran 3 packs Saturday morning on the high tide in the pouring rain..had a few great rides ......Bitterly Cold.......seems like their are storms across the world at the moment......we had to button down the hatches as a severe cold front hit us ..........and is still hanging around.............DVD time !

4cell !
Purchased a few 4s a while back ( good price) .............was going to build a specific board to accommodate them ...but decided this weekend to rather quickly mold a hatch cover with a 5 mm recess in it, to accommodate the 4th cell - in my 30 mm thick float'er.

I am going to run these 4s bats with a 3650- 2450 kv/30mm prop combo.

The float'er will handle the extra weight in the tail- being that much wider........it may even add value to the ride - making the tail end heavier which could generate a deeper carve with more spray in the turns....?

Bro'

bearcave

hey bro... hatch reminds me of the modified hoods of some custom cars when a big fat motor is lurking underneath....

YPC

Good analogy BC........Volts = HP...........LOL

Since I started with the ********s.....cost of the bigger batteries have certainly come down quite some what. I am doing this more to prepare to surf a BIG WAVE locally known as SUNSET Reef.......40 ft face possibly..............WOW factor stuff.

I have a film crew starting to film myself to-day -building the Bro' - they want to make an online short movie clip of it all - drawing in a narrative my now 'life style' ..........hopefully ending it all with Bro' ripping on a massive face...........well seeeaa !................LOL

Bro'

If you don't go - you will never know !

YPC

Finished up with the 4s hatch cover and Bro'........hoping for some great surf to-morrow to give him a whirl !

YPC

mmmmmmmmmmm.....the smell of.......Fresh Foam ! very fortunate to have someone make up these blocks for me....the high density is great to shape and proven to be very strong.

I am going to be building surf boards for my kids with the same product ( no stringer) .........it will be a good test.

YPC

Identical twins !.........building these two float'ers simultaneously for a shipment to France.

We are using them in the AVA movie that is been made ...........so it will be quite special for them...

Jimi Findrix

Awesome Bro.

How do you mount your rider on the board, is he glued onto the deck?

JIMI

YPC

Howzit JIMI.......thanks for 'pulling in' and having a paddle around.

I do hope you are 'going strong'..........hopefully hitting the surf soon....I am missing those classic pics from Fences with your daily surf reports.....

Bro' has a Carbon fiber foot base which is bonded onto the fiber glass hatch cover with a high strength ( slow setting ) epoxy. I have been using this method for well over a year now with good results....no failures to date. As you know....Bro is flexible to a degree...so the rigid foot mount are not a problem.

Take care JIMI......have a great weekend !

Bro'

Jimi Findrix

Cool Dom,
Thanks for that.

I notice that you don't seem to use the little wings on the bi-fin anymore.
What difference has omitting them made?

Also, I remember Brendon telling me that the new models they had made had a more "Swept Back" version of the bi-fin.
He said it was a real improvement.
Think about what effect it would have and maybe you will get around to giving one a test.
Your builds are fantastic.

JIMI

YPC

Hi JIMI........you have a good eye for detail........

I exclude the wings on the Shred'A' board as I found that they pull the narrower tail down........partly the cause of bounce.

I still use them on the float'er board......the wider tail needs the downward pull.

My Bi-Fins are raked back a few degrees........from top to bottom a 5 mm difference.............I will try one with more rake and let you know...

Bro'

Jimi Findrix

Hey Dom,

I know it sounds crazy but do you think you will ever try adding curved side channels like on the original Aus design?

I think they could possibly help to enhance even deeper rail to rail turning and also add extra hold ona steepface as they bite inand create moredrive through the turn as they channel the water out the back.

Maybe even a variation on the idea, I can imagine one or two.

I know itlooks less like a real surfboard but sodoes having a pod or electric propulsion so maybe one rainy day you might try adding this type offeature to one of your standard models and prove once and for all exactly what difference they really do make.

Kite's return to a more Kyosho style pod has improved water flow around the pod and clearly reduced drag and forward splash and I was thinking that maybe other aspect of Jason's original design may also prove beneficial in the modern custom builds.

One day youmight be commissioned tobuild me a board to putone of myKyosho Dudes on. LOL

JIMI

YPC

Howzit JIMI.....I do think that the rail cut away/steps on the Kyhoso board enhance the ability for the board to turn onto its rail, as it presents less rail thickness and a shallower hull surface. Almost looks like a stepped V hull on cross section.

Hand shaping such rails and glassing them into each board would be quite a challenge - especially trying to maintain a good edge.

I would like to believe that my boards have a similar feature - except that my pod design is different- it has a greater lifting effect than the Kyhoso pod design- achieving the rail to rail effect in a different way and perhaps even having less surface drag.

The Kyhoso pod is actually two stepped - you have the thin'ish center pod and then the flat portion which leads out to the cut away steps.....The board rides on both surfaces.

I have designed my pod size to be able to lift/displace the board out of the water at speed- so that it rides more on the actual pod - when one turns the board - the inner turning rail drops down whilst the pod lifts the center line of the board as the CG is displaced onto the turning rail - this allows the board to drop onto the rail in the turns and present a 3D riding effect without tripping to the outside. Both my board and the Kyhoso board have a 30 mm thin rail.....

As you can see on the bigger boards .........most of their pods are merely built to house the motor and weight and are to small and ineffective in lifting the board out of the water - that is why they have a very FLAT looking ride- with no yaw/3D effect in the turn.......displaying a very boat like ride on the wave.


The Kyhoso Dude is a tad to small for my size of boards...................LOL

bearcave

nice reading jimmi and bro

just adding my 2c but apart from the cut outs mid rail there is also the chanels either side of the centreline of the pod on the foamy kyosho that are not in plastic kyosho or boardsharks.... hard to fabricate hand wise no doubt but theoretically should work helping water flow happening without lift along the pod....?

and btw bro if the mega batt blows up under the new hump deck little bro is gunna loose his neoprene balls......oops!

sorry bro was thinkin cars and engines again and couldn't help myself.... lol

bearcave

btw bro the foamy kyo dude maybe short in stature but has pretty good bouancy... espec if you give him a few mm pad under his toes... reckon the right amount of lead in the keel of a broboard he would work ok even if he looks a bit midjet like.....

as you know i'm building a similar shape to your boards and plan on kyo dude as first rider.... hmm.... thinkin std lisa is better height aesthetically..... am now thinkin of strengthing her as the rider....
bye the time i get it happening you guys will have already worked out but... lol...

all the best with the movie star vid bro

bc

YPC

Howzit BC........all valid points to ponder and consider ..........but........lets not forget the Kyhoso/NQD boards still did not go well.... 'out of the box'......!....much after purchase changes/mods were required to make them surf as some have them surfing to-day......

I reckon if I put a paddle in the Kyhoso dudes hand it would look proportional to a SUPB ( stand up paddle board).............LOL

4s Set UP !............!

Batteries charged - sealed up - velcro'd- ESC adjusted - all fitting well...........ready to Surf ! .......ran the set up on the Marina this morning..........'very fast and powerful'........almost explosive !

3650 - 2450 kv Leopard motor - 4s/5800 mAh battery - 120A ESC- 0 degree timing - 30 mm prop.

Will hit the surf this afternoon !

Jimi Findrix

Sick, can't wait to see the 4S Float'er surf session.

YPC

JIMI- Your wish is my command !................had an absolutely awesome fun Friday afternoon session down at Cemetery....

Many will say " I told you so !"............and - I will happily take it on the chin.....LOL. The 4s set up does cost 'that much more'......but for those who can afford it.......it is certainly well worth it.

The speed & power of the 4s set up is remarkably increased - my wave rate was so intense that Lisa-Marie could not keep up with tracking me........LOL The instant power available in the throttle is amazing - I need to adjust my timing a tad - but - I can see plenty of potential for some new 'flare' in my surfing.....power slides - 360's - triple rodeo's........white water floaters.....blasting past long close out sections.........big airs !

This video of almost 9 minutes long (grab a beer) Its an attempt to share with you the intensity of the awesome session I had yesterday. I was literally darting from wave to wave for 4 solid packs - surfing 2 - 4 ft face waves for 80 minutes.........simply put....it was "Absolutely Fun !............hope you enjoy it half as much as I did !

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1ljCkG1qcg

YPC

Glassing Stand !...........one of those 'things i have been meaning to do for a while..........

Glassing these 'small' boards is pretty tricky as their weight does not hold them stationery on any form of trestle.

I have tried using weights etc - but - it always ends up been a struggle balancing the board on the stand - especially when folding the wraps around the rails.

Came across this old 'heavy' umbrella stand and 'walla !!!' - the solution sprung to mind.

Because we cut the housing out and have a pod on the opposite side - one can screw a mount plate onto both surfaces of board.

With the plate fixed to the board and supported by the the heavy stand - I am now able to really work confidently - squeegeeing the resin and wrapping the rails without the board sliding around............nice working height as well.......

Once the underside is glassed....I unscrew the mount plate ........screw it to the opposite side.......and glass away...

YPC

Man ....did that make glassing a whole lot 'easier'............!!!

Having it secured to 'the stand' also made it easy to move it outside, to cure in the warm sun - without been blown around.....

Jimi Findrix

Best vid so far Dom.

YPC

Thanks JIMI.......! - it was a great session.....!


I enjoy making these boards just as much as surfing them - so decided to start making a few video;s of 'enjoying the STOKE !...... in the workshop......to share with others.

Glassing the Board

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5as1zQ7K8k Having the glassing stands makes life so much easier !

YPC

Some POD talk !....

Most folk seem to focus on the boards shape / rails /rocker etc ........without realizing that the POD is in fact the part of the board that is 'IN' the water and therefore has a huge impact on the boards overall performance.

On first thought - the POD could simply be considered as the housing which accommodates part of the motor and any required weight - however - so much more can be achieved in the POD design.

I like to use the POD shape and size to achieve a number of features:

Its shape is very symmetrical,gradually tapering to a leading point - giving it good dynamic flow through the water - which helps with the overall tracking and steering.

Its depth allows the motor to be installed low down, which reduces the prop thrust angle, reducing nose lift. The installation lowers the CG - which helps with self righting.

The actual overall size and shape of the POD allows for it to be able to 'lift' the center line of the board at speed ( like a planing hull), especially in the turns - which helps ensure the rail to rail turns...If the POD size is to small to lift the weight of the center line - the board rides very flat - demonstrating a boat like riding look - rather than a 3D turn and lean - surfing look.

I shape the POD before attaching it to the board so as to ensure exact symmetry. Any inaccuracy on either side will cause the POD to steer the board skew requiring correction on the rudder which will create drag/load. Absolute center line accuracy is required when placing the POD as any deviance will also cause an off-set in direction.

I use 4 layers of cloth to laminate the POD. This ensures a strong structure as a large part of the POD is hollowed out. Alternate layers of cloth are laid up at 45 degrees to the previous layer, which strengthens the structure even further.

The strength of the housing base is very critical to the boards 'integrity. The base carries all the weight of the running gear and has to be able to endure some serious impact when in operation. Collectively I have 7 layers of glass that make up the base of the housing - 2 initial layers when laminating the board - 4 layers from the POD - 1 layer lining the inside of the housing. This combination eventually makes for a very rigid housing base with little of no flex.

YPC

Hot /Filler Coat...........

Once the Pod is glassed in position 'and cured' it is best to apply the Hot Coat to the hull 'before' hollowing the housing out - ensuring that the POD and Housing glass will be at full strength to support its structure once the foam is removed.

The Hot Coat is a Sanding Resin which has a percentage of WAX within it. This WAX floats to the surface when the resin is applied 'seals the surface and enables the resin to cure to be sanded.

Dont 'over catalise' the resin...this could cause the resin to start curing prematurely - inhibiting the WAX from rising to the surface completely - not allowing the resin to cure 100 %

Ensure that the rail of the board is taped up 'all the way round' with a sufficient drip skirt - avoiding any of the excess resin from running under/onto the apposite surface.

Leveling the board out in its width and length is crucial for the resin to cure evenly on the boards surface.

Apply a fairly liberal amount of resin to the boards surface - spread it around with a soft brush - stroking in various uniform directions - working the resin evenly around the board whilst brushing out most all of the air bubbles.

Once the resin starts to kick/cure (tacky) remove the masking tape skirt and allow for good curing, before doing the deck in the same fashion.

YPC

HAPPY FATHERS DAY to all the Dads !..........The best Title to my name......... DAD !

YPC

Monday Surf session "Youth Day".......this government just Loves 'public holidays'.......

Had a fun session this morning.....cut short by a time restraint and the plastic prop blade tearing at the hub. Used a 'borrowed' very basic Olympus hand held camera X10 zoom to capture the footage as ours is still being repared.....Kept some of the fun 'chaos' in the vid.. of Lisa-Marie battling to keep Bro in the frame.....always difficult when surfing a beach break peaking everywhere... at a fare distance out.

The conditions were typical beach break peaks.. reforming and popping up everywhere.......good fun finding the pockets and making something of it...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ni8BD3IYvA