I would please like a little help with a new boat kit.
04-06-2016, 02:53 PM
#1
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I would please like a little help with a new boat kit.
This is the Billing Boats White Star fishing boat kit, 1/15 scale. This is the most sophisticated scale model I have ever attempted. I have built plastic scale models in the past and a few RC models from kits that required minimum building. For paint and primer, I have always used Krylon spray in cans. I am not into airbushing. I think Krylon Acrylic is the best for boats exposed to water. In the past, for my prior RC model kits, my go-to adhesive has always been 2-part hobby epoxy: 1 hour.
What are some good adhesives to use for:
1. brass on brass parts as the rudder to the rudder shaft?
2. ABS plastic on wood as joining deck to hull?
3. plastic on plastic parts?
4. joining wood to wood?
5. joining metal parts to plastic or wood?
Is hobby epoxy the "universal adhesive" for any wood parts?
What kind of spray can varnish is good for deck planks and wood parts to waterproof them?
What kind of stain is good for model boat wood?
What kind of grease is good in rudder tubes and motor drive shaft tubes to lubricate and keep out water?
What is the trick to properly aligning wooden parts to be joined with glue without any sophistication in making jigs? My boat will have numerous panels of wood to join for the hull frame, deck, quarter deck and superstructure (cabin, bridge). I am thinking about using bricks placed against a wooden assembly, such as a cabin, to hold the walls floors, and ceilings together as the glue sets. Tape might also come in handy. I have a couple large C clamps. The trick is like a carpenter's building a house to keep those walls at a perfect 90-degree angles with floors and ceilings. Perhaps a couple of two-by-4's might also help???
In the plastic models, as by Revell and Monogram, there are usually tabs and slots that interlock to facilitate alignment of glued plastic parts. This is not so with my boat kit with thin wooden sheets of laser-cut parts. I will use small hobby clamps to joint the deck and hull.
What are some good adhesives to use for:
1. brass on brass parts as the rudder to the rudder shaft?
2. ABS plastic on wood as joining deck to hull?
3. plastic on plastic parts?
4. joining wood to wood?
5. joining metal parts to plastic or wood?
Is hobby epoxy the "universal adhesive" for any wood parts?
What kind of spray can varnish is good for deck planks and wood parts to waterproof them?
What kind of stain is good for model boat wood?
What kind of grease is good in rudder tubes and motor drive shaft tubes to lubricate and keep out water?
What is the trick to properly aligning wooden parts to be joined with glue without any sophistication in making jigs? My boat will have numerous panels of wood to join for the hull frame, deck, quarter deck and superstructure (cabin, bridge). I am thinking about using bricks placed against a wooden assembly, such as a cabin, to hold the walls floors, and ceilings together as the glue sets. Tape might also come in handy. I have a couple large C clamps. The trick is like a carpenter's building a house to keep those walls at a perfect 90-degree angles with floors and ceilings. Perhaps a couple of two-by-4's might also help???
In the plastic models, as by Revell and Monogram, there are usually tabs and slots that interlock to facilitate alignment of glued plastic parts. This is not so with my boat kit with thin wooden sheets of laser-cut parts. I will use small hobby clamps to joint the deck and hull.
04-06-2016, 08:57 PM
#2
Originally Posted by [email protected]
This is the Billing Boats White Star fishing boat kit, 1/15 scale. This is the most sophisticated scale model I have ever attempted. I have built plastic scale models in the past and a few RC models from kits that required minimum building. For paint and primer, I have always used Krylon spray in cans. I am not into airbushing. I think Krylon Acrylic is the best for boats exposed to water. In the past, for my prior RC model kits, my go-to adhesive has always been 2-part hobby epoxy: 1 hour.
What are some good adhesives to use for:
1. brass on brass parts as the rudder to the rudder shaft? You can have them brazed(brass welded) or drill and tap the parts
2. ABS plastic on wood as joining deck to hull? I'd use a slow set epoxy, roughing up the plastic surface first
3. plastic on plastic parts? A material appropriate plastic glue or CA
4. joining wood to wood? Slow set epoxy
5. joining metal parts to plastic or wood? Slow set epoxy
Is hobby epoxy the "universal adhesive" for any wood parts? I stay away from "hobby shop" epoxies. For marine use, I use epoxy made for it, West Systems
What kind of spray can varnish is good for deck planks and wood parts to waterproof them? You need to be careful with spray on finishes. Some can damage plastic parts due to solvents mixed in
What kind of stain is good for model boat wood? See above
What kind of grease is good in rudder tubes and motor drive shaft tubes to lubricate and keep out water? There are several types, all depends on who is answering
What is the trick to properly aligning wooden parts to be joined with glue without any sophistication in making jigs? My boat will have numerous panels of wood to join for the hull frame, deck, quarter deck and superstructure (cabin, bridge). I am thinking about using bricks placed against a wooden assembly, such as a cabin, to hold the walls floors, and ceilings together as the glue sets. Tape might also come in handy. I have a couple large C clamps. The trick is like a carpenter's building a house to keep those walls at a perfect 90-degree angles with floors and ceilings. Perhaps a couple of two-by-4's might also help??? Are all your corners 90*? Do any have sloped parts? For a pure 90, a 1-2-3 block or 90 degree angle works well but for anything else, you would have to make something up. Here are two examples of what I'm referring to:
http://www.micromark.com/1-2-3-blocks,9551.html
http://www.micromark.com/angle-plate...of-3,7183.html
In the plastic models, as by Revell and Monogram, there are usually tabs and slots that interlock to facilitate alignment of glued plastic parts. This is not so with my boat kit with thin wooden sheets of laser-cut parts. I will use small hobby clamps to joint the deck and hull. Plastic models are made so that pretty much anyone can assemble them. An R/C is a totally different animal so some thinking "outside the box" is required
What are some good adhesives to use for:
1. brass on brass parts as the rudder to the rudder shaft? You can have them brazed(brass welded) or drill and tap the parts
2. ABS plastic on wood as joining deck to hull? I'd use a slow set epoxy, roughing up the plastic surface first
3. plastic on plastic parts? A material appropriate plastic glue or CA
4. joining wood to wood? Slow set epoxy
5. joining metal parts to plastic or wood? Slow set epoxy
Is hobby epoxy the "universal adhesive" for any wood parts? I stay away from "hobby shop" epoxies. For marine use, I use epoxy made for it, West Systems
What kind of spray can varnish is good for deck planks and wood parts to waterproof them? You need to be careful with spray on finishes. Some can damage plastic parts due to solvents mixed in
What kind of stain is good for model boat wood? See above
What kind of grease is good in rudder tubes and motor drive shaft tubes to lubricate and keep out water? There are several types, all depends on who is answering
What is the trick to properly aligning wooden parts to be joined with glue without any sophistication in making jigs? My boat will have numerous panels of wood to join for the hull frame, deck, quarter deck and superstructure (cabin, bridge). I am thinking about using bricks placed against a wooden assembly, such as a cabin, to hold the walls floors, and ceilings together as the glue sets. Tape might also come in handy. I have a couple large C clamps. The trick is like a carpenter's building a house to keep those walls at a perfect 90-degree angles with floors and ceilings. Perhaps a couple of two-by-4's might also help??? Are all your corners 90*? Do any have sloped parts? For a pure 90, a 1-2-3 block or 90 degree angle works well but for anything else, you would have to make something up. Here are two examples of what I'm referring to:
http://www.micromark.com/1-2-3-blocks,9551.html
http://www.micromark.com/angle-plate...of-3,7183.html
In the plastic models, as by Revell and Monogram, there are usually tabs and slots that interlock to facilitate alignment of glued plastic parts. This is not so with my boat kit with thin wooden sheets of laser-cut parts. I will use small hobby clamps to joint the deck and hull. Plastic models are made so that pretty much anyone can assemble them. An R/C is a totally different animal so some thinking "outside the box" is required
Last edited by Hydro Junkie; 04-06-2016 at 10:19 PM.
04-07-2016, 12:56 AM
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What he said
Plus - spring modelling clamps can be had in bulk at low cost from most household goods shops. They call them spring clothes pegs, but we know better. If the ends chamfer the wrong way, as modelers, most of us have a saw to apply the required correction.
Plus - spring modelling clamps can be had in bulk at low cost from most household goods shops. They call them spring clothes pegs, but we know better. If the ends chamfer the wrong way, as modelers, most of us have a saw to apply the required correction.
04-07-2016, 03:42 AM
#5
As I said, you need to be careful as some will ruin plastic if it gets on it. You may have to prefinish some of the wood parts before assembly to prevent damage to other parts
04-08-2016, 12:50 AM
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Any wood varnish that claims to be at least weatherproof and is clear is generally fine. Yacht varnish is better - it can flex with the wood when it expands or contracts. As ever, thin coats, plenty of sanding between them. If varnishing a printed deck, some prior testing is needed. You don't want the solvent in the varnish to affect the printing, best to test on some scrap that carries printing first. Since there is no "standard" ink, there is no way to say what will or won't affect the printing by dissolving it and causing it to spread. I have a liking for Johnstones Kleer acrylic floor polish, which is really an acrylic varnish. Or it was when I bought my bottle, the formula might have changed in the meantime, it might be a totally different product in your area.
Model boat wood is not really special, it came from much the same trees as everybody else's wood. Remember that your boat will only be exposed to water during sailing sessions, unlike the real thing that actually lived there. Most of the time, you will be wanting to keep dust or other air-borne domestic muck off it.
Model boat wood is not really special, it came from much the same trees as everybody else's wood. Remember that your boat will only be exposed to water during sailing sessions, unlike the real thing that actually lived there. Most of the time, you will be wanting to keep dust or other air-borne domestic muck off it.
04-08-2016, 04:03 AM
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Thank you. In sunny California, sailing season can be most year round. I don't want to be shelling too much money out on finishes for a measly model boat. An RC boat model should not be an scale expensive hole in the water.
04-08-2016, 06:48 AM
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[[email protected];12199606]Thank you. In sunny California, sailing season can be most year round. I don't want to be shelling too much money out on finishes for a measly model boat. An RC boat model should not be an scale expensive hole in the water.[/QUO ( I don't agree with you on that ! )
Last edited by blizard05; 04-08-2016 at 04:02 PM.
04-08-2016, 09:37 AM
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The boat is unlikely to spend much more than a couple of hours on the water any one day unless a lot of spare batterys are available, even then, during eating and sleeping times, it is likely to be out of the water. We have a 12 month season here, too, but the winter (i.e. not July, August or September) usually involves a coat and all of the year involves a look at the weather forecast before setting out. In California, UV proofing might be the greater problem, but I can't really help there.
