New Builder - RC Fishing Boat
#1
New Builder - RC Fishing Boat
I've been building RC trucks for years, but now that I'm in Florida, I wanted to build an RC boat that can get my fishing line out in the gulf from shore. The idea is to just get it out in the deeper water. I'm brand new to boats, but I'm pretty good with my hands and work best with wood. I don't have a lot of money to spend so I will want to fabricate as much as I can. The boat is based on the free plans "Wild Thing 48", but will be customized to have bigger sides.
The idea is to attach a fishing line with Velcro to the boat. Tow the line out to the deeper water. If I get a hit or snag on the way out the line breaks away from boat. Then I can real the line in with the rod.
I'm starting my build as a cardboard and poster board model. I would love to hear comments, suggestions, and what has (has not) worked for you. How to fabricate drive shaft, rudder assembly, ballast, etc.
Thanks
The idea is to attach a fishing line with Velcro to the boat. Tow the line out to the deeper water. If I get a hit or snag on the way out the line breaks away from boat. Then I can real the line in with the rod.
I'm starting my build as a cardboard and poster board model. I would love to hear comments, suggestions, and what has (has not) worked for you. How to fabricate drive shaft, rudder assembly, ballast, etc.
Thanks
#2
The idea is to go out about 200 yards or less (don't have much more then that on real). The boat is 15" wide and 48" long. I've been told that range may (will) be a problem. Has anyone else used / built a boat for fishing? Ponds and lakes I'm sure... but what about bays, gulf, or ocean?
#3
My Feedback: (51)
Check with your state's fish commission to see if they allow using an r/c boat to take line out.In PA it wasn't in the manual you get with your licence so I called them and was told it was illegal to use any other method other than casting to get the line out and also no dumping bait.I have arthritis in my shoulders and after a few casts it begins to hurt.Only place I could use one was on a private pond,with permission from the owner.
#4
I checked with Florida fish and wild life. The rule is, the fishing line has to be connected to a rod and real, not just the boat. As long as you are reeling in the fish and not the boat bringing it back, it is legal in Florida.
Tidnab, It sounds like you need to move to Florida and do some more fishing. Look me up and we will catch some big ones.
Tidnab, It sounds like you need to move to Florida and do some more fishing. Look me up and we will catch some big ones.
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Cuppy (02-03-2020)
#6
My Feedback: (51)
Too bad you didn't have the money to buy a fiberglass hull. Expresscraft has the Flybridge that's similar to the one you want to build. By the time you buy the wood to build it and the glue and other finishing products ,like sealer and paint you'll probably have near the price of the Flybridge.New Page 1
At 57" it would certainly take rough water.
At 57" it would certainly take rough water.
#7
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Blackpool Lancs, UNITED KINGDOM
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Card and posterboard will be fine for establishing a pattern. With a lot of waterproof finishing, it can make a nice pond model to sail in flat calm water.
Sailing in sea water requires a tough build. Sailing and working a load requires a very tough build, and usually plenty of surplus power to get away from the shoreline. Serious consideration needs to be paid to proofing against waves coming over the top. What looks like millpond conditions for the real thing, when presented to a model, becomes like something from the Old Testament. Scale works both ways.
Sailing in sea water requires a tough build. Sailing and working a load requires a very tough build, and usually plenty of surplus power to get away from the shoreline. Serious consideration needs to be paid to proofing against waves coming over the top. What looks like millpond conditions for the real thing, when presented to a model, becomes like something from the Old Testament. Scale works both ways.
Last edited by mfr02; 08-10-2019 at 12:17 AM.
#8
I have to agree about the OP’s construction method, it will lead to the loss of his boat in the surf. A model that large requires much more strength than a 24” model does. I suppose he could cover the paper hull with several layers of fiberglass and with enough internal bracing it might hold up. Might. We don’t want the OP to fail right out of the gate.
A better solution is to buy a used fiberglass hull on eBay, etc. Besides, wouldn’t he rather be fishing instead of building an inadequate boat, losing it, then having to build/buy another one?
As for radio range, that depends on radio quality. I have tested my Spektrum radio out to 900 feet - with the boat on fresh water. No idea how saltwater will effect the range.
A better solution is to buy a used fiberglass hull on eBay, etc. Besides, wouldn’t he rather be fishing instead of building an inadequate boat, losing it, then having to build/buy another one?
As for radio range, that depends on radio quality. I have tested my Spektrum radio out to 900 feet - with the boat on fresh water. No idea how saltwater will effect the range.
Last edited by Got RPM; 08-11-2019 at 09:19 AM.
#9
I'm sorry I was not clear. I'm building a model out of paper. Then I'll use the model as a stencil to make my boat from wood. I have inside braces that will be made of quarter-inch plywood. Then I plan on using epoxy to make the boat watertight. I'll be putting styrofoam inside the boat to make sure it doesn't sink.
Last edited by JFSJR; 08-11-2019 at 04:54 PM. Reason: Forgot to add details
#11
Join Date: Jul 2007
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Using the card to make patterns for ply is just fine.
When you get to considering the line pull, think "tug boat". They rarely pull from the stern so that they can steer when pulling, they usually have a low rear deck to keep the center of pull low. Any boat needs an access hatch, on most models this is the superstructure, but it does need care to ensure that it is strong enough to stand being hit by a wave, secure enough to stay put, and have a very water resistant join to the deck.
Styrofoam is god at providing flotation, but does have the downside that there is less air volume inside the boat. Any water that does get in gets to the electric bits that much more quickly, so waterproofing them gets a higher priority. A search through the offshore racing threads should give some helpful information.
When you get to considering the line pull, think "tug boat". They rarely pull from the stern so that they can steer when pulling, they usually have a low rear deck to keep the center of pull low. Any boat needs an access hatch, on most models this is the superstructure, but it does need care to ensure that it is strong enough to stand being hit by a wave, secure enough to stay put, and have a very water resistant join to the deck.
Styrofoam is god at providing flotation, but does have the downside that there is less air volume inside the boat. Any water that does get in gets to the electric bits that much more quickly, so waterproofing them gets a higher priority. A search through the offshore racing threads should give some helpful information.
#12
My Feedback: (51)
I'm sorry I was not clear. I'm building a model out of paper. Then I'll use the model as a stencil to make my boat from wood. I have inside braces that will be made of quarter-inch plywood. Then I plan on using epoxy to make the boat watertight. I'll be putting styrofoam inside the boat to make sure it doesn't sink.
Don't forget to put stringers where the deck meets the sides and where the deck meets the sides and where the sides meet the bottom.Also a keel to glue the bottom V onto.Gives you gluing surface instead of just gluing where the skin meets.I've seen hulls made with no keel or stringers that came apart,from the vibration of the gas engine,if that's what you're using.For floatation,pool noodles work great,but I don't know what the salt water might do to them.
Last edited by Tidnab; 08-12-2019 at 03:12 AM.