RC Boats General Discussion Discuss general rc boating topics here.

Prop sharpening & other tips for new boaters

Reply
Old 05-29-2012, 10:48 AM
  #151
vasek
 
vasek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Prague, CZECH REPUBLIC
Posts: 4,084
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Prop sharpening & other tips for new boaters

Interesting. Ron, do you have any pics of the mentioned finishes?

Thanks,V.
vasek is online now  
Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2012, 12:21 PM
  #152
wholehog
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Pine Bluff, AR
Posts: 94
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Prop sharpening & other tips for new boaters

My question is on polishing. I here satin finish is best,then to polish the backside,then to  polish the whole prop. Test proven coments welcomed. Thanks
wholehog is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2012, 07:44 PM
  #153
Ron Olson
 
Ron Olson's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 18,510
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Prop sharpening & other tips for new boaters


Quote:
ORIGINAL: vasek

Interesting. Ron, do you have any pics of the mentioned finishes?

Thanks,V.
I wish that I did. I bought some props that were done up at Andy Brown's CMD Racing to see how mine compared to the way that they do props at his place. it was easy to "counterfeit" the way that he has them done by just leaving marks in the blades that I could do with a file or sander. The machine that he uses is called a Linisher, basically a belt sander with a long sanding belt with no backing plate. To my surprise, I paid big bucks to buy props that weren't as sharp or as well-balanced than mine were!

Wholehog, I just like to have good-looking props on my boats so I like to polish them up enough where they don't look nasty. I can't see dropping big bucks into a boat then have some green dull prop hanging off the back. Other prop work will yield more results than just a pretty or ugly finish.
Ron Olson is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2012, 04:36 PM
  #154
coolguy1975
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: magnolia, TX
Posts: 77
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Prop sharpening & other tips for new boaters

could somebody help me plz...i know this doesnt have to do exactly with the topic on this forum...but right now im using 4000mah 25c lipos on my motley crew.....will stepping up to 30c...maybe even going as high as 45 or 50c improve the performance any and will i risk damaging any of the electrics in it if i do? again any help or answers would be soooo much appreciated
coolguy1975 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2013, 07:18 PM
  #155
kamikaze007
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Canberra, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default RE: Prop sharpening & other tips for new boaters


Quote:
ORIGINAL: benckie

ivve made a list of people who do that but it will not help you as the list is for australia, but any aussies out there need a list of people who sharpen and balance and or polish let me know
Im in Australia and Im after for this list of contacts who can do this prop work mate. Cheers
kamikaze007 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2014, 04:10 PM
  #156
WILDTHAWN
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: GLENDALE, AZ
Posts: 16
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Hey guys what up? i m building my first inboard boat running a weedie eater motor of 23 to 26 cc.. i aint got a clue of what i need for a prop as far as being in the range for the size boat im building..my hull is shallow vee 20 inches wide about 46 to 48 inches long fiberglass and ill be running a 1/4 inch shaft. but i dont know if it should be a surface drive or sumerged as i dont know the benefits of one or the other or how to pick a prop based on the options. i dont mind destroying a few props in the process of learning to sharpen and balance them but i dont want to buy a bunch of stuff i dont need and cant use. so how do i go about figuring it out and are there cheaper options like plastic till i find about what i need in size, pitch and blade count. i hate having to ask but i sure could use the help then how about a video of hop ups for the motors gotta go there next keeping in mind that money is no object cuz i sure aint got any
WILDTHAWN is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2014, 02:33 AM
  #157
Justaddwata
Moderator
 
Justaddwata's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: RI-USA, RI
Posts: 5,974
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Prather 275 would be the ticket. It is a must for any prop box. I have seen guys win national championships with it so it can perform admirably too. But it is just a great all around prop. Should only cost you $20 or so. Plastic props are not much good for gassers. In a pinch they can be used as a rough gauge for gassers but they do flex considerably and break very easy. I have no hesitations in recommending the 275 though. You may pick up a clone copy in Aluminum - a little better than plastic - though not much.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WILDTHAWN View Post
Hey guys what up? i m building my first inboard boat running a weedie eater motor of 23 to 26 cc.. i aint got a clue of what i need for a prop as far as being in the range for the size boat im building..my hull is shallow vee 20 inches wide about 46 to 48 inches long fiberglass and ill be running a 1/4 inch shaft. but i dont know if it should be a surface drive or sumerged as i dont know the benefits of one or the other or how to pick a prop based on the options. i dont mind destroying a few props in the process of learning to sharpen and balance them but i dont want to buy a bunch of stuff i dont need and cant use. so how do i go about figuring it out and are there cheaper options like plastic till i find about what i need in size, pitch and blade count. i hate having to ask but i sure could use the help then how about a video of hop ups for the motors gotta go there next keeping in mind that money is no object cuz i sure aint got any
Justaddwata is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2014, 10:37 AM
  #158
bucsbw
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: san diego, CA
Posts: 37
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

I was seeking advice on the right prop for my son's Aquacraft Motley Crew. I wanted to put a three bladed prop on this boat and need advice on the right sized and pitched prop for my son's application as well as where to buy. About my son's setup. The boat has a 1800 kv brushless motor and a 60 amp speed controller. the boat runs on 4s and has a .150 flex shaft with a drivedog and lock nut. The boat also currently runs with the cheap plastic 42 mm two bladed prop. Again, I would rather run a three bladed prop. I have a post in the speed-electricthread, but noone is answering, and I have tries to get ahold of Chris at Fine Design, to no avail, so I am seeking the expertise of the people here.
bucsbw is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2014, 02:10 PM
  #159
WILDTHAWN
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: GLENDALE, AZ
Posts: 16
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

oops my bad need different page of discussion

Last edited by WILDTHAWN; 12-24-2014 at 06:49 PM.
WILDTHAWN is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2014, 02:57 PM
  #160
Ron Olson
 
Ron Olson's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 18,510
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Try Steve at www.offshorelectrics.com as he''ll know what the best prop will be for it.
Ron Olson is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2014, 06:59 PM
  #161
WILDTHAWN
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: GLENDALE, AZ
Posts: 16
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Justaddwata View Post
[link=http://www.berylliumdisease.net/]http://www.berylliumdisease.net/[/link]

Worth restating and spending 5 minutes to become a little informed about the dangers of that shiny prop on the transom. In no uncertain terms - the metal it is made from can kill you. Not today. Not tomorrow. But 30 years from now you could suffer a slow early death as a result of inadequate protection and handling of the props. While we are not throwing a lot of metal around (and props are not 100% berylium either) the amount of the exposure required to develop the reaction is also small. Play it safe
just such a thing killed my dad only it was from sanding a fiberglass boat hull. he suffered 20 years or more and i do mean suffered. then it killed him it was not pretty at all.... just because he did'nt wear a dust mask or filter
WILDTHAWN is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2015, 05:40 PM
  #162
HulkRogan
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 1
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by piper_chuck View Post
Do I need to sharpen and balance my new prop?
The question of whether props need to be sharpened and balanced, and how it should be done comes up often. The answer to the first question, should they be balanced, is absolutely yes! Prop manufacturers sell unbalanced, dull props. In theory, they could balance and sharpen them before they sell them, but since boaters tend to "personalize" their props it's probably best that the manufacturers sell raw props. Shipping them raw also makes them less succeptable to damage during shipping and handling in stores.

So, what does a new person do with this raw prop? Well, there are several choices. The first is learn to sharpen and balance props. I provided links below to help those who might want to do this. Another option is perhaps you have someone local who can sharpen it for you. And the final option is many of the racing oriented online vendors offer a sharpening service. For a small fee, they will take that raw prop you order from them and send it to you sharpened, balanced, and polished and ready to put on your speedy new boat. If you're not excited about spending a couple hours with the prop, a few files, an assortment of really fine sandpaper, and a prop balancer, I heartily recommend letting someone else do it for you. If you're too proud to do this, consider the fact that many racers also use this kind of service.

I was going to extract information from a bunch of places and perhaps write an article on sharpening and balancing props. But if someone else has already done this, and better than I would have done, I'm just going to link to their information.

How do I sharpen and balance my new prop?
Here are some articles that describe prop sharpening, balancing, and modifications:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/prop_balance.htm
http://www.rcprops.com/TechNotes/rcprop_tech_info.htm
http://www.geocities.com/jwohlt5362/Propguide1.html
http://rcboat.com/prop.htm

whywhathowto.com/how_to_buy_wigs_online.html
http://whywhathowto.com/howtoorderclothesonline.html
whywhathowto.com
www.whywhathowto.com
http://whywhathowto.com/how_to_buy_shoes_online.html
http://whywhathowto.com/howtoorderclothesonline.html
whywhathowto.com
www.whywhathowto.com
http://whywhathowto.com/best_traveling_deals.html
http://whywhathowto.com/an_antiperspirant_that_actually_works.html
http://whywhathowto.com/howtoorderclothesonline.html

Note, many props are made of an alloy containing beryllium. Dust containing beryllium is hazardous. Here is a link to a fact sheet: http://www.state.nj.us/health/eoh/rtkweb/0222.pdf When working with this material, it's important to wear a dust mask, and take steps to control the dust. I prefer hand tools, rather than a dremel, because it reduces the amount of dust generated, and the distance it spreads.

Lots of great info here, thank you!
HulkRogan is offline  
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:52 PM.