Just make sure the ESC you buy works with a sensored brushless motor.
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Just make sure the ESC you buy works with a sensored brushless motor.
Thanks mate for the pressure testing info, it's a great idea. I got the surfcurls screws with the neoprene washers today so that should help make sure no water gets in through the screws.
How's your new ESC been going, no issues?
I'm taking mine around to Brendon (The guy that originally created them with Jason Hall) on Friday. I only live 5 min from him & he said he's happy to take a look at the small leak & at the short run time i'm getting out of it.
As the Kyosho RC Dudes need to be put together from scratch and glued/epoxied together (I mean everything!!) it will be good for him to check it out and see if it's done right.
I've also just got my new motor, ESC, water jacket, surfcurls screws, heat shrink & Deans Ultra plugs. Still waiting for the flex drive cable, prop, drive dog & Lipo battery. So hopefully in a week or so i'll have it all together ready to go.
Cool - looks like you'll be in business shortly.
The new Water cooled ESC seems to be working Great. My system no longer shuts down due to heat.
I drove Lisa several times last week and it was great (slowly making my way out to the bigger waves.). My Caulk seal came loose between the prop shaft and hull so I am working on a new fix for that as well.
I also took a garden hose and shot water into the intake port to try and get an idea of water flow through the system. I would like to see more water flowing so I am going to experiment with the arrangement of the feed hoses and try to reduce the number of arching curves.
One last thing. You can also check for hull leaks by using a technique similar to the one used to find motor capartment leaks.
1) Remove the deck
2) Completely screw in 3 out of the 4 screws into the screw holes - this is with the deck removed.
3) Place a long water hose into the 4th screw hole - the one without the screw in it.
4) Place the hull into the water up to the hull seems
5) Blow air into the hose.
hello again friends ...
my engine original is broken and want to change the other with brushes.
I need to remove the old piece hex,but it is impossible!!
someone managed to remove it without breaking anything?
I do not know if stores like rc something more to this piece....
another 540 as the engine that is economical and better?.......thankyou
The hex adapter is nearly impossible to remove. You will need to buy an adapter to replace it were one end fits over the motor shaft and the other end attaches to the motor shaft.
Here is what I purchased:
1/8 to .130 adapter
Somewhere on another page is an adpater others have used.
If you really want to try and remove the original adapter and you have a small tourch, you could try to heat up the hex brass fitting and pull it off. In theory, the brass should heat faster then the metal motor shaft, expand and come off.
I did as I said but no luck. while I buy something similar that I said. suggestions?
and I said the economic engine that is going well?
one particularly better than the 540?
If you are using the surfcurls deck. / screws / washers for a surfer lisa or nqd or shark, coat the screws with with a light amount of marine grease, it helps coat the inside deck nut from any salt water corrosion Alsiao, tell Brendon H, Hi from John In California
To seal the section whereprop shaft goes through the hull of the board I used epoxy resin. Itworked great and looks nice and neat. I let the epoxy cure a little when I had mixed it (Not too much) before I put it around the shaft to stop it running/dripping. No water gets in at all. (I'll take some pics of the whole setup once Brendon has finished checking it out)
Hopefully next week the LiPo battery will arrive and I can start installing the brushless gear once Brendon has checked it over.
I also just brought one of the Venom Pro Chargers for AUS $139....Tried it last night and it worked awesome. Really quick charge times and a lot of manual settings can be used for almost all types of batteries in RC.
As TechyJoe suggested, get onto www.offshoreelectrics.com and search for couplers. This is where I got my motor, water jacket etc from. I live in Australia and it was all here within a week and packaged well. They also have brushed/brushless 540 motors if you still need to buy one.
Thanks for the info on the screws, i've got the original Kyosho dude, but will still add a light amount of grease. I'll say hi to Brendon for you, i'm looking forward to getting mine up and running properly.
Ok , I got the little fella back from Brendon today and he's done an amazing job. He relocated the aerial & on/off switch so that the whole hatch lid easily comes off without any wires attached. He fixed the prop shaft leak by moving the motor forward so the drive dog blocks any gaps to the entry of the shaft. I also changes the hatch tape over to the original stuff that came with it. I did not get a drop of water inside which i'm stoked about.
He also used a special type of tack/wax to seal in the cover of the prop compartment and also used 2 screws to hold it in as he said even using strong glue these will pop out when in 4-6 ft surf.
Now on the down side I only has the 1800 man NiCd battery to use, so runtime was about 5 min, but while it last I was more than happy.
I'm just waiting on my new LiPo 11.1v battery to arrive and the bullet connectors for the new motor & ESC. Once I have those i'll start changing the motor over. So hopefully next time I use it i'll be getting a lot better speed out of it. Although the stock speed when the battery is full is great using the factory Kyosho motor.
Here's some pics I just quickly took of it.....also notice the screwq grommets Brendon put on so the screws stay put when you take the hatch off (no more lost screws!!) & new custom water inlet/outlet
Your Board Came Out Awesome ... It's gonna Fly and Will Be Solid For Sure !!! Brendon Is A Master RC Surfer Builder...
John From California @ Surfcurls.com
Thanks John. Brendon knows his stuff that's for sure.
I'll let you know how it goes once the new gear is in it. I'll try to get a short video of it too.
I agree with Surfcurls, your board looks GREAT!. Did you have to paint it or did it come that way?
I ran my Lisa this weekend with my 2200mah Lipos and was getting about 25 minute runs. The Lipos are way better then the nicads. Switch them out ASAP.
However, my motor got extremely hot. I need to revamp the water cooling system with a better intake port etc.
Did you say you were using a cooling jacket? Let me know how that works for you. I am using the stock cooling coil which comes with the Lisa.
With painting the board, I sanded it back with fine sand paper. Then sprayed with Tamiya primer (I made a little mistake by using a grey primer which dulled the orange colour down instead of using white). Use white primer if your using a light colour over the top.
I sprayed the orange colour on using 2 coats and then used a clear hobby spray to protect it. I used 3 coats of that.
The stickers I used came with the Kyosho dude. It even had a long thin sticker to use as the stringer.
Using the Lipo's looks like it's the way to go then if your getting 25 min runtime out of them. I will be stoked to get that sort of time with mine.
The Lipo I ordered is a 3000mah 35C 11.1v. Hopefully this will get similar results to yours.
the water jacket I got from offshoreelectrics. This is the one.......
It has a rubber o'ring on each end that seals the jacket once placed over the motor. This way the water is making direct contact with the motor housing which I'm hoping should keep things cooler.
If you using the cooling coil you could try what Brendon has done with mine which is spread the coils apart so they cover a greater amount of the motor.
You could also try changing your water inlet & outlet to be similar to what Brendon has done with mine which is making the inlet face the front of the board underneath so that water is forced in as the board moves along. And the outlet the opposite.
Then on the inside of the hull he has made them L-shaped so that the water hoses run along side the battery then into the cooling coil.
Also another tip is finely coat most metal surfaces with wax. This will help stop corrosion. Brendon has even put it over the cooling coil & and motor housing as well as the screws etc.. I'm not sure what type of wax it is, but it's only a real fine coat (Almost not noticable). I will find out next time I speak to him what type it is. I'm pretty sure it's not your normal surfboard wax though.
Let me know if you need anymore info.
I like the antenna set up which was moved away from the deck. It looks like some silicone tubing was thread thru a hole in the board and then connected to the antenna tube. This is a great Idea, any tips on what you did to make it work would be great, and how you sealed it in. I was thinking of trying it with silicone or epoxy ...
hi I was going to sell My original Lisa
Includes new cooling fin kit and 2 x single fin rudder kit and a few props. i had bought
Feigao 540s Brushless motors - as close to Hacker B50 motors as you can get.
9 Turn 3943 rpm/v
size 36mm dia 50mm long
shaft - 1/8"
weight - 225 g.
Max amps - 72 amps
And a Etti Navy 150 bec - but this isnt going to go in its way to big. - what Etti esc are you using to get it in the board?
Here is the one I am using (see my pictures on page 12):
ETTI @ 45A Water-cooled Brushless ESC
This is water cooled with BEC. Purchased off of Ebay for $59.00. It ships from overseas so prepare for about 10 days for delivery.
thanks for your response, i did see this one reading through the posts but says 45a will this still be ok given the motor of 72a? I did go for the 19 turn Chameleon Performance motor but all this did was fry my batteries and hardly moved, smoke everywere, luckly no damage was caused to my board.
Ive decided my gas boats take to much of my time and dont have any to spend on her so have placed on ebay. thanks for your info.
Surfcurls - Brendon did the antenna tube for me. I'm not exactly sure how he's done it, but he has made a tiny hole in the hull (near the batteries for the receiver) and another hole that you can see the antenna tube sits in. I can't see any silicon etc around it to seal it in, but he said it was definately water proof.
The last time I took it out I didn't have a drop of water inside the hatch/hull. Brendon also just cut up some sponge (like you useto wash yourdishes) and placed around certain parts of the board where if any water does get in, it will be soaked up.
wbf1mad - I purchased the Seaking 90a w/bec & watercooling just because I was worried anything smaller might heat up too much with the Feigao9L brushless motor I brought & the Lipo's. I'm hoping it will stay pretty cool under there. TechyJoe has a great setup that he said works well so you may be ok with a smaller ESC as he has mentioned.Will all depend on the other components.
Thanks for the info, one more question about it before I attempt to try it. Ok I understrand drilling the two holes, but did Brendon use a rubber (silicone) tube to feed the antenna wire from the receiver hole to the hole in the board that extends out of the board and then connects the clear antenna tube that you feed the wire thru ?
What I see in your picture is a small blue tube coming out of the board and then connected to the clear antenna tube.
I'm just being careful because if I dont get it right, its gonna flood my electronics...
Surfcurls - I'm not sure how Brendon went about sealing in the aerial. It's only a hole big enough for the receiver wire to fit through in the hull, then a larger hole through the deck that the aerial tube sits in. There is no silicon or any other sealant around the tube, but he said it was water proof when I picked it up. I'll try to get some closer pics of it for you. I'm about to start pullingallthe electronics out and install the brushless setup over the weekend so i'll check it out.
Ok I've started hooking up my brushless setup. But i've got a major prob. When I connect the battery (4600mah NiMh) the motor continually beeps. It beeps every 1 or 2 sec and doesn't stop.
I've read the ESC instructions and they state how to get into the programming mode by holding down full throttle then connecting the battery and wait for the 2 beeps and it should then be in programming mode.
However it doesn't matter what I do, it just continually beeps and I can't get into programming mode. The steering servo works fine, it's just I have no acceleration control. The motor doesn't turn at all.
Anyone got any ideas on what might be causing this. I tried all possible types of connections from ESC to the motor and tested the soldering is ok, which it is.
I'm out of ideas Any help would be great. Thanks....
STUPID ME...Found the problem. I was plugging the ESC into the "battery" port of the receiver instead of "slot 2" which I now know is used for the accellerator.
All part of learning I guess.
Anyway took it for a spin in the local pool to make sure all the water tubes were working, then took it straight out in the surf. It was a lot faster then the original motor and worked great with the 4600mah 7.2v NiMh. More than happy with it now.
Will it go even faster with a 3000mah 11.1v Lipo 3S? I'm guessing the motor will be spinning faster with the 11.1 volts running through it.
Well I'm a happy man
It doesn't matter what the motor is rated for. It could be rated for 1000amps. It all depends on the current the motor is drawing with a load on it. In this case, the load is the prop in the water which should only draw about 15amps max. We are all using larger ESCs here in order to sink the heat that gets generated.
I also once purchased one of the 19T motors for an RC motorcycle and it ran for about 5 minutes before it turned into a smoking heap of junk. That is why I only use the brushless motors now. They can handle the voltage and current from all batteries. Trust me, its worth investing in these if you are serious about RC.
Could you post some more pictures of your internal setup. I'd like to see how Brendon rigged your cooling system. Including hoose positions and the intake ports used on your board.
Also, your surfer should go like a bat out of hell with the 11.1v Lipos. This will give your motor the much more RPM and power.
Here is a few pictures which my wife took this morning of my little surfer girl. The wife did not get the best of pictures and none of me catching a big wave. This was mostly due to the fact that the the surfer was to fast for her to follow with the camara while taking still photos. But, they are pretty cool overall. You can even see a small rooster tail on some of the pics.