Yowza

Thanks TechyJoe. The weight distribution isn't really and issue, he seems to come down ok. Everything was fine when I was running the 7.2v battery through it because the speed was nowhere near what it is with the 11.1v battery.

I could not use the 7.2v at full throttle as the 7.2v would not provide enough current. It would only go up to half way on the throttle any futher and it would slow it down (ESCdoing it's thing which is good). But I did get extremely long run times of around 35-40 min with a 4600mah NiMh. It's just I wanted that extra speed to get it from peak to peak and out the back quicker.

The speed you see mine going in the 2 videos is with the 7.2v battery which only run up to half throttle. With the 11.1v it's unbelievable how fast itgoes. It actually flips itself if I give it full throttle from astationary start.
I think that is where my problems are starting though. It's got too much power for it's own good. I'll have to learn to use it conservatively and not launch it off the waves too high when heading back out. and hopefully getting some more solidpartsfor the prop willhelp.I'll get some more video when it's back in the water.

I also just got my new brass prop & bullet nut in the mail today. So once i've got the rudder from John i'll hopefully be back out there.

Also John will be the man to speak to about new rubber foot straps. I think he sells them in a little kit???

Surfcurls - John, I was just reading through some of the posts again and sawthe one where you had asked for more pics for the relocated antenna I have. Did you manage to get yours sorted? I can take some pics and send them through if you still need them? Let me know.

surfcurls

Hi Greg, I still would love to sea the antenna set up. This is the way to go, simple, clean and water proof !

Your rudder shipped today !

LONGBOARDT3

thanks to God… today brushles arrived some things bought in ebay.
- motor ezrun 13t 3000kv
-2 x battery lipo 3s..11, 1v….2200mah
- CHARGUER/BALN
I need information to buy ESC… of 40A or 60A?
THANKYOU


PD:THAT CONSUMPTION HAS MY MOTOR EZRUN 13T

Yowza

Surfcurls -

Here's a couple of close-up pics of my relocated antenna setup. The first is without the tack around the small hole in the hull (there just incase water gets in the hull). It looks like it's just been threaded through out the top of the deck into the antenna tube. The main antenna tube looks to be inside a small piece of silicon tube which is the same type I am using for my water cooling. So the hole would need to be the perfect size for that silicon tube with the antenna inside it to be very tight and keep the water out. Might be best testing some hole sizes on some spare plastic around the house

Also got my brass Octura prop in the mail today and have fitted it as in the 3rd pic. Only thing is it need to rotate in the opposite direction!!! I can swap 2 of the motors bullet connectors over to get the motor to go in reverse, but not sure if this is any good for the motor. Does anyone know if it's ok to have a brushless motor rotate in either direction? I connected it up to the lipo and had it go both ways and there doesn't seem to be any speed difference. But I haven't had it in the water to test because I don't have a rudder.

Brendon has offered to take a look at it again for me being the legend he is. He's a busy man so i'll get it to him when he's ready.

LONGBOARDT3 -

Looks like you've got some stuff to really get this thing moving now. Make sure you have sufficient water cooling setup once this is in as the 3S Lipo's will have the RPM right up around 33,300. Also depending on what prop size you use it is likely the battery life won't be too long with those 2200mah lipos. I'm using a 3000mah 3S 11.1v lipo and get pretty much 20 min on the dot and this is not using hard acceleration often.
When I get mine running ok and solid enough to handle the extreme speeds i'll be looking for a 11.1v 3S lipo around 5000mah to get some more runtime. Just these will cost around $195 Aus to buy. So won't do that until I know it's not going to break anymore.

Also from my recent experience you'll need to upgrade the prop to a brass/metal one as the plastic just can't handle those high RPM and hitting any type of weed etc will break it also. Plus the rudder may need to be upgraded.

With the ESC a 60amp watercooled/waterproof one should be fine. I'm using the Seaking 90amp one (pics/details a few pages back) and it's a little on the large side but does not even get warm after a run which is a good thing. Just make sure you buy a boat ESC that is watercooled.

Also use Deans plugs for the batteries. Easy to solder and only cost around $2 or $3 for a set of male/female. Hope you get it up and running shortly

LONGBOARDT3

thanks friend Yowza
I found a plane of 45A, we will just have to make suficiente.luego cooling system ....
you OK?

RC Surfer

[email protected] should do it!
Thanks BB

RC Surfer

This would be better
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=xpo-blb100a

RC Surfer

Brass bends! No matter how carefull you are it's go'en on the beach or hitting something! and now you have all that speed, you're doubling your chances. When you get tired of bending and breaking I'll be here. my rudders are guaranteed not to break under normal surfing conditions, that includes running it up on the beach or hitting sometng in the water. I've static tested it and lets just say that it will rip the rudder box out of the board before it will break! [sm=drowning.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]

Later Dudes BB

surfcurls

Thanks For The Pics, Thats a great set up, I'm gonna give it a try.

surfmike

here why the boardshark will not right ,it has only 2 oz of lead in it an there is a little room for more lead this is what you do ,when there no surf here for 2week

surfmike

here thi inside of lisa with 6.4oz of lead the board with lisa is 1.13oz the the cover with lisa is 8oz
the boardshark is 1.14.6oz the cover is 11.8 with 2oz of lead an you can see the motor are in diffent place as is the lead more on my rebuild later
PURA VIDA

M°°K

Wooooo Hoooooooo. I got all my new stuff from surf curls, motor esc and the other bits and bods, installed it, and now about to do a water test. I think I set it all up ok. All looks really good quality. Hopefully I've also fixed the hull leak.

TechyJoe

surfmike

Thanks for the pictures of the inside of the NQD hull. I have been wondering what it look like inside. From the pictures, it is hard to tell why these boards leak so much. It doesn't appear that water can easily make its way from the hull into the electrics compartment but it does occur. The other thing I've seen as that when water gets into my hull, I can remove the deck and screws, turn the board upside down and water from the hull will come out the screw holes..... I don't see from your pictures how this is happening...... Any thoughts?

surfcurls

Mook:

Stoked You Got The Modify Kit Installed So Fast !

It was sent programmed already (ESC) So It should be ready to fly.

Techjoe:

The Water Getting into the hul is from the board seam itself...

Either use water proof seal tape, or strip the decals, use a water proof epoxy around the entire seal
sand and paint. and no more water in the hull.

john
surfcurls.com

Yowza

TechyJoe - John is right, the water gets in through where to 2 halves meet and aremoulded together. Even with the original Kyosho I got it came with the excess platic from the mould still around it. I had to cut this off with a Dremel sanding wheel, then used some layers of super glue (found expoxy to be a nightmare to use in this case as it wasn't hard enough to sand. Sanding just seemed to heat the epoxy up and it peeled off. I then got a spay can of primer (try to use a white primer as it will bring the colour out better when sprayed over the top. Grey primer really dulled down my orange spray) and sprayed a couple of coats of this on. Then I sprayed it with the colour I wanted, then to finish it off I used some clear hobby spray paint and did a couple of coats of this (I've also used this over some spaysi've done on surfboards) and it helps protect the paint and keep water out. No drama's with leaking what so ever.

I think I outlined the steps of the process a few pages back anyhow.

Mook - Good to see your up and running with some go fast bits in it now. How did the water test go? Have you got any pics

Surfmike - Thanks for the pics. Got to see what the inside of the chinese boards is like.

M°°K

Hey guys,

M°°K

Sorry if I just crashed all you're computers with the size of the pics And thanks to Surfmike for opening his board so I knew it was ok to put holes where I did.

TechyJoe

M��K
NICE

Lisa looks stoked

Others
Thanks for the info but I already fixed this a long time ago by sealing the seams with fiberglass epoxy. I was getting other water in the hull from the prop shaft.... This has also been fixed a long time ago. I was mentioning it only because I found it strange that the screw mount columns in the hull look completely sealed with plastic from the top of the hull to the bottom but yet water was able to get out through these openings from the hull..... Hmmmmm

I just presumed that the screw mounts only went down so far into the hull and stopped, leaving an opening into the hull. Anyhow, it was cool to see the inside of this board. If I had to do this all over again, I would do what Surfmike did and pop the two piece hull apart and start from there.

SurfCurls
Do you carry the little rubber bands which mount Lisa to the board? Also, would a BoardShark surfer dude fit on the NQD board? If so, do you have any of these little men?

TechyJoe

One more thing.

My board got a hair line crack in the hull, across its beam just under where the nose starts to become the main body of the board (maybe the added weight caused this?). I sealed this and re-enforced it with some fiberglass and glass epoxy. Now that hurricane Bill is gone and my crack is fixed, I can go back and do some surfing this weekend

M°°K

Wow, that would have been funny, surfing you're dudette in a hurricane. 

Yowza

Looks good Mook. Let me know how your prop holds up with the extra power. With the battery & motor your using it may be ok, but with my 3S 11.1v lipo & large can 540 motor it blew a blade off after about 2 waves using the same black chinese prop after the stronger Kyosho one gave up also. Watch out for this happening as the vibrations caused by the missing blade can shred the shaft tube from the epoxy holding it in the board (or whatever you have used to 'glue' it in).

Also with the aerial moved up the front did you also add some grommets to the bottom of the deck screws so you don't have to worry about loosing them? And if you haven't already, fill in the hole where the aerial is going through to stop any water in the board coming into the hatch.

John - How did you go with moving the aerial up the front of the board?

surfcurls

Mook:
Nice Job On The Board, The Wire, The Mod Kit We Sent, All Looks Perfect...
It's Gonna Fly For Sure !

Techyjoe:
Yes , O'rings for Nqd Lisa And Kyosho available at Surfcurls web site
Also Dude Figures Just Became Available, And Will Fit NQD & Kyosho Decks,
and shark deck with simple modification.
Nose Guards Are Also Available And Fit Perfectly, They Are Real Nose Guards
for real boards but fit our mini surfers perfectly.

Email Me If You Need Info At : [email protected]
as we have more products than the web page shows

Yowza:
Didnt try it yet, But it will be a standard Modification on All The Boards
Me Modify from here on out. Thank You And Brendon

This Is Great, We are all bringing life back to Rc Surfing, The Best Thing
that ever happened in surfing (Thanks to Jason Hall Always) Besides a True Paddle Out ....

M°°K

Went for a Canal test last night and she flew. Everything worked fine and no water got in. Next is the waves at the weekend. Seems to skip about a bit so I,m going to add a bit of weight.

surfmike

here the lisa back together . i add 3oz to her in lead ,, an put the anten up front , you can drill a hole up front an add lead from the inside also,,, theree was place where there was no gule in the side seam , so that where a lot of water is comming from.....

boardshark i add 2oz to the center lead an put 5.5 oz up front .. an took apart the surfer an remove the joint from the upper body to the low part ,, cut a hole in the low part an pushes the upper part into the low part .an heated it with a hairy drying an push it together an gule it ,with som front side lean to it ,, hope this will make it selfrighting like the laisa is

M°°K

Yeah surfmike, that looks good. Its so much easier to remove the top now. I have to add more weight to my lisa as she now bounces around a bit too much.

Also, can I add a 7 cell Nimah battery to my set up, as the 6 cell I have only lasts about 10 mins, or would a 7 cell blow the thing up?