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Thread: RC Surfer


  1. #1101
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    RE: RC Surfer

    AN NQD Girl Can Be Modified For Strength , But The Same Mod On A Kyosho Dude
    Would Be Stronger, As They Have SS Wire Thru The Legs And Filled Solid With Foam.


  2. #1102
    Jimi Findrix's Avatar
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    RE: RC Surfer

    Cool Sebski,

    My latest Carbon Fibre Dude is also very strong.
    He has been getting hammered and shows no signs of stress.
    But he still has all his toes.
    Ha Ha Ha.
    Since I have been using the "Inverted Wingnut Footpegs" I have also notice that I don't break so many o-rings as I did with the standard pegs.
    Although I am really sure why.
    I was breaking them quite often but now it is very rarely.
    Must have something to do with the shape of the pegs.
    As you can see, I do run the board often and in decent size waves as far as RC Surfing goes.

    Yeah, I guess we all just do whatever it takes to survive and as long as you are having fun that is all that really matters.
    Of course, the better your model can surf and the more reliable and consistent it is the more fun you have.

    Thanks for sharing mate.

    Sea Ya.

    JIMI
    (Gero, West Oz)
    My work here is done !

  3. #1103
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    RE: RC Surfer

    I meant to say,

    "I am not really sure why."
    My work here is done !

  4. #1104
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    RE: RC Surfer

    "...just cut off her big toe..."

    Is that the right way to treat a lady?? ;-)


  5. #1105
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    RE: RC Surfer

    Hey Dudette Makers,

    I am trying a different approach to the melting process.
    I just boiled the kettle to make a coffee and I thought to myself,
    "Hey I wonder if boiling water will do a more gentle melt job?"

    I will let you know what happens.

    JIMI
    (Geraldton, Western Australia)
    My work here is done !

  6. #1106
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    RE: RC Surfer

    Seb,

    I ordered 5 x RH 4M 31mm props, do you go through many of these?

    I go through heaps of the plastic Octura ones, sometimes 1 a day and I am hoping these will last a bit longer.

    Being carbon reinforced nylon I think they should last a bit longer than the plastic ones I currently use.

    I am intending to install the new propshaft setup in the Kyosho Lisa and it should fit in with the same modsifications as I use the Kyosho propshaft in my NQD's.

    Sea Ya,

    JIMI
    My work here is done !

  7. #1107
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    RE: RC Surfer

    Jimi,

    That is the size i use. They last about 3-4 weeks, as long as you don't spin them when you run your surfer up the beach.

    Remember to Solder the hole in the shaft tube the you can fit it to the board and run it and see how smooth it runs!

    Good Luck

  8. #1108
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    RE: RC Surfer

    Sebski,

    Do you just epoxy the shaft in at the tail end?

    I have been using epoxy putty and making a bulb around the shaft and plastic keel.
    That is how JP showed me and it does work well, it also adds a bit of strength and support to the area I think.

    You also said you don't need to fix it in at the motor end, but wouldn't it be better to seal it up anyway.
    Just in case water does get inside somehow and goes down to the hull.

    Not that that really matters 'cause I have to drain my hull all the time.
    I think it gets in through the top of the rudder hole.
    I have tried epoxy but it just came off after a few days.
    I have tried Sikaflek but it is still leaking.
    No matter what I use it only lasts a short while.

    There is no other way around the leaking problems.
    The hull needs to be taken apart and sealed properly.

    Problem is I have two other hulls that are new that are sealed and have tubes puttied in and I don't want to try to take all the putty off.
    Even the screws under the deck seal have been puttied over and new seals installed.

    So I guess I will be draining boards for quite a while yet.
    Once I have used what I have I might try splitting one open.

    Sea Ya,

    JIMI
    (Geraldton, W. A.)

    My work here is done !

  9. #1109
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    RE: RC Surfer

      Jimi, when I got my NQD board, it leaked around the rudder tube. I don't know if yours is leaking here ,but here is how I fixed mine.   Water would leak into the compartment where the rudder adjustment  is made.  I sealed the hatch with grease, to check it.  Still leaked.  Turns out water was coming up the loose fitting rudder shaft.  There is on o-ring on the top and the bottom, but they were not resting on the hull ! 
     
        My solution was to pull the rudder out .  At the top of the rudder shaft, there is a kind of D-section, where the rudder acctuation horn fits over it. The D-section stops the horn from spinning on the rudder shaft.   It appears that the rudder shaft is to long.  I used an olfa knife and cut about  1mm of the top of the rudder shaft.  Not much, I know, but this allows the o-rings to seat in their little notches and seal the rudder tube.  I greased up the seals with thick  car axel grease to lubricate them. My rudder compartment is now totally dry !  If water gets it there, it can travel along the rudder steering rod, and into the board. 
     
        Kind of a long winded explanation, I know, but it might help someone out there !
       
       I have seen other boards with custom made rudder/ fins.  What is the point of changing to a different style ?  Mine has the original  dual fin. Although it is a little flexible, it seems to have excellent steering response. 
       
       Hope this helps. hey, did the hot water help to remold Lisa?  

  10. #1110
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    RE: RC Surfer

    Jimi,

    Just epoxy the end nearest the shaft, the other end doesn't require it. If you can put epoxy around the end near the motor, give it a try.

    Kevin,

    Yep, the rudder area is a bit tricky and leaky. I put 1 hour epoxy around where the rudder tube enters the rudder area and i have also done it from the underside with silicone which is easy to do when you separate the hull. I like a nice loose rudder, less tension on the servo and if the rudder has a bit of movement, after a bump on the wave it seems to hang on better and keep astraightline.

    On one board icouldn'twork out how water was getting into the electronics areas, andrealizedwater was being forced up the rudder tube, into the rudder bay and then along the rudder pushrod tube. So i just filled the tube with grease andpluggedit with an antenna tube end to keep the grease in. Works a charm and i have done it with every board since.

    This is why I like separating my hulls, it gives me a chance to seal up everything!

    Jimi,

    Post pics of your shaft when it's installed.

    Seb

  11. #1111
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    RE: RC Surfer

      Yeah, the NQD boards deffinatly have their issues !! They are very poorly built, so it doesn't really surprise me that they leak !  That's what you get with most cheap Chinese made products.  I expected to fix a few things when I got mine.  Now, I'm happy with it. 

        I once bought an ARF P-40 warbird kit from an American company. The plane was made in China.  Said so right on the box.  I knew I would have to go over it pretty good, before it flew !!.  The gross part,   the bag containing the screws and other metal parts, smelled like B.O. !!  YUCK !!   It was so bad , that I had to dunk all the metal and plastic parts in hot soapy water to get rid of the smell .   It brought to my mind the stereotypical vision of a  hot Chinese sweatshop, complete with armed gards prodding the employees to work faster !!!  

        I wonder if that is how the NQD Lisas are made !  It would explain a lot !! Ha Ha.

  12. #1112

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    RE: RC Surfer

    guys
    Ireceivedmotor and esc today FAIL. The motors water cooling pipes hit my servo, the shaft is too small for the coupler and the motordoesn'tfit theoriginalmount. lmfao!! pity i ordered it before i found this forum, the motor was dirt cheap anyway so im not too worried.

    Anyone point me in the right direction for a motor that will fitIdont care about the price expensive or inexpensive? and mount?
    Goldcoast Rc surfers
    http://goldcoast********s-com.webs.com/
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  13. #1113
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    RE: RC Surfer

    cananzi



    surfcurls can help you he is very smart when it comes to set up , but if you know what you want hobby parts or hobby king or hobby wing becarful there from china shipping takes longer good luck hope to see you in the water john
    BUILD IT YOUR SELF ,I DID

    owner of maui rc surfer

  14. #1114
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    RE: RC Surfer

    Brett,

    This is the motor i use.

    http://www.rcworldwide.com/v5/produc...ess-Motor.html

    With this water jacket:

    http://www.rcworldwide.com/v5/produc...ng-Jacket.html

    And these props (get 3), if you got the flexi-shaft i suggested, then you will need these props.

    http://www.rcworldwide.com/v5/produc...Propeller.html

    The ESC that came with the motor you bought will be fine, maybe put the motor you bought on eBayAustraliaand someone will eventually buy it off you.

    You can pay for 1-3 day shipping if you want it the above products quickly.

    Seb

  15. #1115
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    RE: RC Surfer

    NQD Crew,

    The way I seal up my boards was shown to me by Dr Curlz.
    It works fine for a quick pack in the testing pool and appears to seal up tight.
    J. P. claims his system makes the NQD watertight and for someone who uses the board with a couple of packs a couple of times a year I think his system is sufficient.
    The problem is that I run it for anywhere between 4 to 12 packs regularly, sometimes even every day if the surf is good.
    This amount of use and abuse in surf that is big enough for real surfers to start paddling out in, quickly breaks down the sealing efforts and everything starts to crack and leak.
    It is like, I fix one leak and test for a pack or two and all is good, so I send it out for 8 packs back to back in 3 foot surf and the thing is leaking all over the place again.

    I think that Seb is right, the only way to really make an NQD take the amount of punishment that I want to throw at it is to start from the inside.

    Anyway, my seams are all cracking again and the rudder is leaking again and I am draining the hull again.
    I have just about had enough of this particular hull too.

    Looks like the other 2 NQD hulls that I have already sealed the Curlz way are gonna break down quickly after a month or two and then I will salvage any spare parts and throw the hulls with the cracked seals in the bin.

    I am hoping that the Kyosho models can take the amount of punishment that I intend to give them.
    If the Kyosho Models  up to it I don't think I will be making any more NQD's, for a while at least.
    If I ever do they will definately be opened up and sealed from the inside first.

    JIMI
    (Geraldton, Western Australia)

    My work here is done !

  16. #1116
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    RE: RC Surfer

    Jimi,

    I Have only sent you One Hull Sealed By Us, and that was 6 MONTHS AGO ...

    In The Past 6 Months Please Estimate how many run Hours You Have Surfed That Hull
    In The Extreme Style You Surfed it.


    Looking At All The Pics You Have sent me, You Run A Board
    Fast, Hard And Long runs, with multiple batts ! Thats GREAT,

    But a quote of use at 2 times a year is a mile off..


    Cananzi, As You Know, You Get What You Pay For, And Sometimes Less !

  17. #1117

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    RE: RC Surfer

    thanks guys

    yeah the motor that came with the esc had cooling on the motor already butbecausethe water inlets are at the rear of the engine its a no go. All good I'l order another engine asap!
    Goldcoast Rc surfers
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  18. #1118
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    RE: RC Surfer

    G-day all [:-] Nice day had here again. ended up taking skullman to the coast
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  19. #1119
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    RE: RC Surfer

    Guys,

    If your motor got wet at some point and the the bearings are starting to rust or the motor is starting to not sound as good, replace the bearings. I just did with a 2950kv today and it sounds brand new!

    They are about $7 a pair and removing the old and installing the new is pretty easy. Much cheaper than buying a new motor!



  20. #1120
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    RE: RC Surfer

    Awesome pics! Where is this spot?

  21. #1121
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    RE: RC Surfer

    The place is Puniho road. Its one of many surf breaks here in Taranaki, New Zealand
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  22. #1122
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    RE: RC Surfer

    move your servo to the front a little
    then the motor will fit
    way easier (cheaper) than a new motor

  23. #1123
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    RE: RC Surfer

    Goggz,
    Great wave mate, I'm glad your Dude dropped in on the surfer, it gives us a great perspective of the scale of the model and wave size.
    Skullman rips bro.

    Kev,
    The boiling water worked for the arms (softer plastic) but the hips are too strong and need more intense heat to melt.

    Dr Curlz.,
    Far King Lots!!!
    It is not your fault mate.
    The gear you sent me is great.

    But, the fact is NQD Hulls are not up to the standard I expected  for the $ I payed.

    Has anyone else here used the same approach for sealing?
    If so, what were the results?
    Do they still use that type of sealing?

    PROBABLY NOT, especially if they go HARD.

    Goggz, I think I recall that you had a board built by John, great gear for sure, but how well did it seal up in surf like that in your pics?
    I am certain that it did not hold up very well or for very long before the whole thing turned into a bucket of water?
    Do you still use the same sealing for the seams and rudder that was originally used?
    I bet you don't.

    Let us know Bro.

    I am not attacking you, your company or your models John, I am just saying that the way I surf them is HARD and that approach to sealing them that is used by you and me up to to this point has proven itself inadequate for my extreme demands.

    JIMI



    My work here is done !

  24. #1124
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    RE: RC Surfer

         Great pictures, goggs !  Cool to see a fullsize surfer together with the little dude. Did he know about the rc dude or not ?  In the forth pic, he is looking at your dude.  You can almost imagine him saying "  What the hell is that !!! "

      When I tried my surfer in the waves for the first time last sunday, I had a bald eagle check it out a couple of times !!  I hope they don't try to steal it !!

  25. #1125
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    RE: RC Surfer

    Jimi,

    Get one of your NQD boards and separate the ****ing thing and seal it up! No more talking, just do it today.

    Undo all screws, insert aStanleyknife in the seal starting at the nose of the board and once you get it in, get a flat head screw driver and slide it in and start moving it down and twist the screwdriver to separate it! It will make cracking sounds, but it will be fine. JUST DO IT AND DO IT TODAY!

    I have had a few too many drinks so i am being pretty damn straight forward!

    Let me know how it goes!


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