Jimi Findrix

Hey Curlzy,
Can you help me?
I need a rudder hatch cover Kyosho style.
Jimi

Jimi Findrix

Cananzi,

The one I lost off the Kyosho does not screw down like the NQD it just sort of plugs in and pops out in the surf never to be seen again, lol
When silicon the NQD one do you screw it down too or just glue it down?
Im asking because if I can't get another Kyosho lid tthen an NQD one will fit but it won't screw down unless I put the little v shaped wire like I melted into my NQD.
I don't really wanna do that to my Kyosho.

So if all else fails, I might have to silicone an NQD cover over the hatch.

Thanks for the idea.

JIMI
(Gero - W. A.)

itsfishi

hey jimi what about some sort of bath, sink plug, who knows might be one that fits perfect and get ya by for a while.

i have not seen a kyosho board so if its a stupid idea sorry

when my lisa lost an arm i searched the beach forever but it was gone forever

ronkytonk

Hey Boys and Girls

RonkyTonk here from Canada, lake still has 5 ft of ice on it so no surfin for a couple months, but here is my idea for my Kyosho. Looking for feedback or any thought on what you guys think.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=15132

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=10608

Thx
-RonkyTonk-

Cananzi

Ronky

The servo i would get something a lil more powerful and tourqey.i use these, they centre very well and are really fast and cheap price.


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8777


The motor i would get a 36 size not a 28 size in the link. these are a great motor 750watt and 59amp max


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=15194

you will just need a 36mm x 40mm size water jacket

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250728241870&ssPageNam e=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_1116wt_905


The esc i would get something with a bec. try either a seaking or turnigy


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=7360

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Seaking-60A-B...#ht_3090wt_932


TheHobbyking GT-2 2.4ghztransmitter is spot on they work really well.

Jimi Findrix

Hi crew,

I took the "Nearly Quite Dry" for a spin this morning at "Shories".
Similar to yesterday, about 2 1/2 foot on the sets but damaging because you catch the wave about 20 or 30m out back and it just sorta rolls in until it gets to the beach and then jacks up and grinds onto the sand.

I ran 4 LiPo's and 4 NiMh packs and the thing was very dry except for a few drops coming up through the pushrod tube.
I usually have a thicker rod in and it never leaks but I have been using a standard NQD one for a couple of weeks and so it goes.
I do get water in my rudder hatch so I am gonna do a bit of work on that.
I think I will silicon the lid down like Cananzi and go back to my thicker pushrod.
Other than that the thing is dry.
So if I sort that hatch lid I might actually get a bone dry run.

Don't know what was up with the motor yesterday but it did not play up today.

I was pushing things a bit far a just flicking out at the last second but getting the thing slammed onto the sand quite a few times.
I ended up breaking a drive cable but probably only because I got beached and drove it back out as the water rushed back out, several times.
I did break one prop doing that too.
Probably should have picked it up and relaunched it.

This beach is so steep and the end section is heavy and powerful for such small waves.
Really, I am a bit crazy running it here 'cause ya just know something will break.
I used to smash Dudes here all the time but Carbo-Dude seems to think it is fun, lol.

It was cool taking out the battery tray ballast and reprogramming to NiMh, the changeover went smooth and the board surfs good with both types of packs because the balance is basically the same.

Anyway, I only have one cable left so I hope my .130 music wire arrives this week.
Knowing me I will break more, lol.

That was quite fun today but I can't wait to get it into some more suitable and less destructive  waves.
New radio should arrive any time too.

Funny thing is my FM radio is running like a dream lately and not dropping out at all.
I reckon it must have been getting interference from the surfclub building at the other beach.

I have an NQD lid for the Kyosho and I think I will just silicone it down, but it would be nice to get my hands on another Kyosho one although I don't like my chances there.

Hi Ho, Hi Ho, It's off to work we go.

Sea ya.

JIMI
(Gero - W. A.)

MBSCsurfergirl

wow its been a while since I posted...got my frankenlisa repaired again, now ready for some action if the wind would quit blowing 200mph lol...hope to put some footy on here soon; also got my other board and primed and going to paint it this week

all and all getting really good at repairs and mods, love these dang things!!!

surfcurls

Dan, Let Me Send You A Micro Motor And Brass Gear Replacement.

Hows $12 Shipped Sound ?

Email Me at [email protected] If You Want to go for it

P.S. I sold Some Parts To Curl, Curl OZ
Does that spot ring a Bells Bell ???

Love The Name Of The Town, OZ Surfers ROCK !!!


Curly

itsfishi

hey ronky listen to cananzi he is spot on with that info.

i had that exact same motor you were looking at and it does work but will get hot and you will end up going to 36 size motor anyway save yourself the expense and pain set it up right ist time.

60 amp turnigy esc has bec make sure you seal the ends up. they say its waterproof, its not i promise, use silicon or hot glue. or get the 120 amp is only like 10 bucks more if you want. good luck with it.

also go for 30c or more batts i have learnt that is part of the reason my system was running hot. heat = wasted energy and worse !!!


Curls did you mean me when you said Dan, it was my mate with the board shark. Curl Curl is a beach suburb in sydney ill be right near there tomorrow, im from sydney but live in shellharbour now which is about 100km's south.

if that deal was for me and fix that board shark prob, sweeeet. it just seems like a mission to get old one out without destroying stuff, what do you reckon your the expert.

cheers

R a i n e r

The motor looks exactly like the one I've got (by Seaking).
Very powerful (even vor size 28) but a "current eater" - 'means you won't get too long runtimes with it.
I would take a slower motor with less than or max. 3000kV.

The ESC is too wide (with 41mm), especially when you will go for a size 36 motor.
Better go for a slimmer one, e.g. Seaking 60A with BEC:
http://cgi.ebay.de/Seaking-60A-Brush...item1c16fd8f50

Take care!
Rainer

itsfishi

i think the seaking and turnigy are the same just rebadged

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...idProduct=7360

R a i n e r

Right - they look VERY similar, indeed.

Jimi Findrix

Rainer,

Cananzi has a 120A ESC in his 3S board, so how does he fit it in if it is too wide?

By the time I tape up my 60A ones they barely squeeze in.
Sometimes I think I have the small sized NQD board not the standard, lol.

You are right though, gotta be careful, it does get a bit tight squeezing everything in.

JIMI

icemandan

the ESC are the same you can even use the Seaking program card on the trunigy

Dan,

itsfishi

seaking-turnigy just different stickers me thinks

itsfishi

the 120 he has is the same as the one i had its not to wide 33mm i think. they are good.

itsfishi

the 60 and 120 are same width

R a i n e r

My blonde Lisa has got a 41mm-ESC (120A, cheap China thing - no Seaking), which I really had to squeeze in between motor and inner hull wall.
Next time I go for an ESC with 32-33mm width. That'sis way easier to mount.

Take care!
Rainer

itsfishi

the seaking turnigy 60amp and 120amp i think are very similar in size. the size for 60 amp on hobbyking site is 31.5 x 27.5 x 16 i dont think so!

the 120amp size on there is 94x33x18 which is correct.

Jimi Findrix

Hey Guys,
About the Seaking and Turnigy 60a ESC's,

Also the Seakingsays burst current 120a but the Turnigy say burst current 380a.
Also Bec for Seaking says 6v @ 3a but Turnigy says 6v / 1.5a
Also Seaking says weight 76g but Turnigy says 32g
Also Seaking say 1 - 6 LiPo but Turnigy says 1 -3 LiPo

They appear to be very similar but perhaps they are also a bit different.

So unless anyone has one ofeachand can confirm that they are just a rebadged same thing I remain a little skeptical.


JIMI

itsfishi

hey jimi i think the specs on hk web site are messed up.

if you look at the bottom of the page it is on there is a files section this is whats in there and what it looks like they have based there stats on

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...75X30239X0.pdf

Jimi Findrix

Hey Fish Dude,

Well I guess that clears it up then.
I guess they are the same.
I saw them a while back and thought they were the same and I told Curlsy about them but when I started reading I started to wonder a bit.
Well, that is great because now when you need an ESC you can look for the cheapest price on either brand.
The going price seems to be about $55 - $60 but I look for the ones that have free postage in that range.

Sea ya.

JIMI
(Gero - W. A.)

R a i n e r

The moreI look for ESCs in the range of 60-120A the more I think that only two types mainly exist - just labelled differently:

1. The fat, cheap Chinatype with 41mm width, e.g.:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=15132
or:
http://cgi.ebay.de/Water-Cool-Brushl...item5d2d7fff79



2.The slim Seaking/Turnigy type with 33mm width, e.g.:
http://cgi.ebay.de/Seaking-60A-Brush...item1c16fd8f50
or:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9101


Somehow, theyall look like these two types.

Jimi Findrix

All comin' from the same factory too.

RC HAWAIIAN STYLE

rainer

HOW come alot of the esc dont come with bec , do you know any one using them ,and how do they work , is the bec in our recivers all we need , give me some clues. I have been using castle ceantions 120 amp esc but they are pricey an i am looking for a cheaper way



john maui