itsfishi

do you mean from your camera to youtube or from youtube to forum post

im thinking you mean to put a vid up on here from youtube.

1 open youtube and open the vid you want

2 highlight the url right click and select copy

3 open up this forum and do a post

4 click the youtube box which is up on the right above where you type post this will bring up this [youtube][/youtube]

5 in between the 2 middle brackets paste the url you copied from youtube earlier

6 try preview to see if it worked then ok to post

itsfishi

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2l92VXXP1Ww[/youtube]

YPC

Hey Fish

The potential looks good! - plenty of space - just ensure that you cut away on the inside where the drive shaft stuffing tube passes through the hull, so that you get the angle as low as possible. ( stuffing tube to have as straight a line to marry with the motor.

The end center point of the drive shaft only needs to just allow your biggest prop to fit - so keep it close to the hull.

Is that Lead Flashing you have added to the keel ?

The keel in itself has some serious Rocker - at high speed - you would be running more on the keel, than the boards actual hull surface.

Changing the thrust line in respect to the rotation around the CG will certainly stabilize it far more

Thankd for the YT pointers - will get it sorted.

Re
Dom (YPC0

Isn't it amazing how we can communicate so easily , being on different continents, even with visual aids - "still Mind Blowing for me !!!"

kitekook

Dom

Glad to hear that the kids enjoy Tina. PK did a great job on that video, made us look good for sure!

For batteries I have been using these: 5000mAh 4s
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html

Matter of fact I just ordered 4 more...will now have 8 when I head to the beach(4 left me wanting) and I think I will end up with a dozen before I start going to 'Blacks...its a 45 minute walk down off the cliff and about the same back up!

Supposed to be the best reef break here in Southern Cal...nudist beach to boot!

My motor, Turnigy Trackstar,http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ess_Motor.html

can use max 120 A and the Esc can provide it that.

Together they can suck down a battery in under a minute if I 'gun it the whole time!

So run times are about 10-12 minutes I'd say...more if we go out in small surf(Tina really would rather have Margaritas than go out in anything less than double overhead)

Battery times of 10 minutes are generally when we are fighting big currents or large walls of whitewash...once on the face I try to just keep up with the wave...maybe a jump or two along the way...

Gotta say that a 10 minute run is way more exciting than a session that yields 15 minutes.


edit: almost forgot...the hair!..its Spectra fishing line, 40 lb.(eBay) Repels water so it doesn't add too much weight when wet.(also GREAT Fighter Kite line!)
She has 200-250 meters of 'hair' epoxied in...took a few hours...so worth it!

Justin-san

Well said Dom. Great explanation on CG and Jimi rocker.
Justin

YPC

Thanks for all the info Kite !

Kids want me to build a Tina like babe now as well - really got their attention.

Keep juicing those mA's - and making great Vids !

Regards
Dominic (YPC)

YPC

Fish

If you cant sort the flex drive - go with a simple solid shaft instilation. It works well - just line it all up before you bond the mount in place.

I use a 3mm stainless steel shaft - place a 3mm ID brass sleeve 'Bush' ( 40mm long) in both ends of a 4mm ID outer brass tube. Stuffing tube. The bigger bore holds more grease.
Drill the two sleeves randomly with a good few holes - reduces surface area and harbors lubrication. Acts as a great bush - we use this in the 1/4" gas drive shaft housings.
Flare the ends of the sleeves with a punch so that they dont slip into the outer sleeve - remember to anneal the brass first.
The greasing nipple negates having to remove the shaft (and rudder) for greasing. easier for water proofing maintenance.
The silicone tube on the end acts as a seal - it must not be tight - just seal on the S'S shaft of, if you blow from the other end with the shaft in place.

If you do run a flex shaft ALWAYS REMEMBER - Not to run the dog drive against the thrust washer - ensure that you have at least 3mm of gap AS - the flex shaft shortens when under torque. If you dont have this play/tolerance - the dog drive will bind against the stuffing tube face - load up the motor.

Regards
Dominic (YPC)

eddie5364

Hello all, this thread is a great place to find information on the RC Surfer.

I just recently picked up an unused NQD Lisa and Kyosho RC Surfer in the box and I am in the process of upgrading the motor and electronic in each Surfers and I have a few questions. My question is about painting the surfers and what type of paint to use, I’ve read that some are using epoxy paint on the boards and my concern is the Epoxy Paint will crack under the stress of the waves?

Questions:

1.       What is the best Epoxy Paint to use? (I’m thing about using Klass Kote)

2.        Is using a Primer necessary.

3.       Do you need to sand the Board before applying the Paint/Primer?

4.       Which is easier to use with epoxy Paint, Sprayer or Paint Brush?

itsfishi

the main thing that will effect the shaft angle is the motor position it will be as low as possible in the hull. one thing i forgot to ask is is the thrust angle the angle the shaft is at at the motor or the angle it is at the prop, plenty of curved shafts out there.

yep lead flashing straight from the roof of the last house i lived at. to buy at local store was going to be alot of $ and only came in large amount. most houses i have found will have a spot where the builder was a little generous and the house wouldnt miss it.

going to have to buy a blow torch thing for this flex stub off, hope it all works, i have not one prob with it since i got it from ofe and am imaging im not going to get it together agian like they had.anyway something new to learn.

i agree on how good we have it these days with this communication. would be good if they had a live chat feature on here. sometimes i chat with a mate online by both playing online poker at the same table works great and its fun and free, Facebook.

later

itsfishi

HI eddie welcome

acryllic is the way to go i believe

YPC

Hi Fish

The thrust line angle' is the line extended through the hull -'following the PROPS drive shaft centre line" STRAIGHT
Remember - moving the motor forward is allowing you to reduce the angle & lower the height of the current thrust line.
If you simply move the motor forward and bend the brass tube down to meet the motors drive shft - you would gain zero advantage.
In fact - it would be worse as only the CG would have been moved forward - which in effect would have raised the original thrust lines height in respect of the CG if it was left the same.
if you motor is to low ie - reduces the angle to much for you to have enough clearance for your prop - just raise it up / and tilt it to be inline with the new thrust line - positioned by design of the new mounting bracket. You could also create a 'bed' for the motor to fit into - use some Prately putty or sorts.

The Blue flame DIY type blow torches are pretty cheap - come with refill gas cans - very handy once you have one - get your self some good quality solder and FLUX ( flux is a cleaning agent applied to the heated surface that cleans it and allows the solder to bond well)
The surface area of the joint between the cable and the drive is plenty to hold it all together once you have soldered it.
Some guys even use a STRONG PERMANENT LOCTITE
Also great for 'annealing the brass tubes ( heat them up with the flame to dull red hot - leave to cool - nice and soft to work)

The written communication is great in that one can respond at your convenience - between other things - and the info is saved to revisit and for others to see. As in this thread - It must be the best 166 page book written on RC Surfers ..................................... for all to read

Dont stop until it is DONE !

Regards
Dominic (YPC)

Hughengland

Maui report - small waves 2-4ft range - best time has been early am and sunset when the wind backs off.
Have been getting in a few hours each day.
I will have to put the rc surfers away for a few weeks now because I started to film re-make of Blue Lagoon.
Good to get some more $$4 for more bricks.

Aloha, Hugh

YPC

Hi Hugh

Is it going to star an older Brook Shields ?.................................Lipo packs and botox hop ups ................................LOL

Please do me a big favor before you disappear for a while - could you make a sketch of you latest boards dimensions - CG point- and thrust line angle relative to all measurements.

Thanks !

Regards
Dominic (YPC)

dreadrock

G'day Fellas,
Wow finally got to the end of this awsome and mamoth thread. Jeeze i think i've forgotten most of what i've read tho..lol, still i loved all the info, r&d along with all the cool pix and vids
Things sure are taking a differant direction now with all the super cool and sexy custom builds, keep em coming they're just way cool

OK so i've got a nqd stripped down with the hull split ready for some tlc, my dilemma now is wether to continue with it or just build a custom? I'm kind of leaning towards the custom (less work in the long run and easier to keep dry), i've got a couple of snapped boards down the back shed, not snapped at the right length but close enough. Seeing as i still have to get most of the hardware anyway (shaft, prop, motor etc)
I recieved the Maui Surfer how to vid the other wk and had a quick look at it (must check it out again), nice work, very handy to boot. Cheers John love your work!!
So i guess my questions would be more for the guys doing the customs, what motors,shafts,props,packs are you using? I'm thinking it'll be around 28-32" depending on shape etc and going with 3s as i have a heap of packs but 4s etc is fine as i'm sure i'd be getting differant packs at anyrate, i'd prefer to get it right first time round (electrics etc), as for the shaping well that might be another story..haha
.
Jimi where are you? Have you been blown away in the storms? Ok just kidding, i hope you and your family/friends are all ok, sounds like it's not to nice up there at the moment.
Cheers Nigel

Cananzi

dread


Go custom for sure mate , the reason being water intrusion. I honestly dont get one single drop of water in my compartment in my customs becuase I made that my number 1 priority when building them and i have never looked back.
I learnt the hard way having multiable plastic boards that were modded to the **** house with the same end result...WATER INTRUSION.


Motor wise its horses for courses really......good starting point would be 36mm 3000kv ,3s, 30mm prop ,120amp esc and the best/biggest lipo pack you can fit.

one warning tho mate.....once you build one you wont stop......take one look at this forum and you will see we are all like mad scientists lmao

YPC

Hi dreadrock !

Like Cananzi said - once you start - you are hooked..............................LOL - no known rehab !

I reckon Custom boards ARE GREAT - a continuous learning curve - but - you have to know what 'you' want/like. Some one else's ideal, could be your bane.

I'll share some of 'my custom' board thoughts and opinions - just to help you consider your way forward.

From what I've learnt/observed and realized for myself so far:

'Cost' to 'Run Time' return is an important equation sum for me, dont forget the 'recharge time' TIME AND MONEY are scarce commodities for most of us.
When I'm in the water - I want to ride for as long as possible - Coming in - opening up - changing batts is a pain for me.

"Cost to 'ongoing maintenance/repair' is also up there. I have seen, all to often how the 'ongoing repair/maintenance costs can kill the interest for individuals.
One unfortunate 'mishap' and it could be a ESC - motor - servo - battery- done !. Dont forget - we are playing in Salt Water..................most of the time - its repair by replacement.
No prisoners.....................

So ! firstly - Overall Weight is the biggest consideration - The heavier boards certainly sap the most mA's and need the bigger - more costly Motors, ESC's, servo's and battery's.
As shared by one of the owners of a bigger/heavier board earlier - with 5000 mAh packs - he gets 10 minutes run time - even with managed throttle. I think his board is about 3400 grams. Very expensive running gear set up - not much run time. 6 battery changes in an hour of running.

With my fist custom board, 600 mm (24") long - weighing only 1250 grams - I set out to realize the max run time with the least expense.
I get 25 minutes of good constant surf riding, with only 3600mAh's. only 2 battery changes in a average hour of running.
3600 kv motor - 70A ESC (could be a 50A) - HXT 900 micro servo - 2 Paralleled 3s 1800 mAh packs. - 27mm nylon prop - about the 'cheapest' hardware set up.
Definitely the best 'run time return on investment'

With a light board, some say they get blown of waves etc - I find mine shreds very well - it gets huge air- does not land with hard impact.
Like a 9 gram/high velocity bullet can go through steel - a light - fast - board punches through and over the white water - no problem. Just keep it perpendicular.
I do find that the light board gets 'flicked forward' by the lip of the wave very easily , which is great for getting back onto the face when you initiate a 'of the lip' type move.
The acceleration is instant. ( very light load on batteries) Steering and changing direction is great - less bulk to redirect.
This board could even run with 2s packs quite easily as well - certainly feel like I achieved a great board build for an affordable cost that is not expensive to maintain.
Really enjoying the board !

HOWEVER - size does matter - were guys after all......................


Size ! is beneficial in the surf - the bigger the set up (SURFER) the easier it is to see and appreciate !

I have made my second board, 700mm long - just feels and looks that much better to me - similar running gear and cost - fits bigger battery mA's 4400 - weight still light - 1500g's
Where I think I have managed to equal the benefit of the bigger boards, is by managing to create the surfer with a silhouette area that is much the same size as the bigger boards surfers. ( in some cases bigger) When the board is on the wave - its more the Surfer one sees than the board - the aspect ratio of board/surfer is also important to me.
With our Bro Surfer being 320mm high and 240mm wide - the visual impact of the surfer on the wave is the same as the surfer of that of a say a 900mm long board been ridden.

To accomplish this size surfer - the Bro Surfer has had to be built very light and dynamically streamlined - his figure has been designed to cut through the wind and water at speed as well as compensate for the torque roll of the prop. a kind of aerofoil. Total weight only 120 grams - including a head, made of polyurethane weighing only 7 grams. This reduces the load leverage of the surfer somewhat, and does not hinder self righting. the lightness also reduces the outward centrifugal forces when turning sharp. I dont need to add any lead to the keel of the board for it to self right in static pool testing.

Other issues to consider for the efficiency of the board to improve its run time and performance is the actual running surface (HULL) and drive set up design.
I am trying some new considerations with my new board and will report them as soon as they are conclusive.

To reiterate - your first build wont be your last - so dont get to hung up on it - just 'go for it' - build it with some thought - open to incorporate the realised desired changes in the next build - and so on ........and so on........and so on..infinite boards later.................like all things creative ................................we just keep moving on ......PROGRESS !

Have you got that foam in your hands yet ?

Regards
Dominic (YPC)

Love It !

YPC

To add to the above :

If all this grabs your interest.........................?

I derived a very simplistic - yet fairly accurate formula to calculate just how much a board of a particular size will have to weigh to self right itself successfully.

This will be useful upfront when you are disigning a board, to realise how much weight you are going to have to 'push around' so as to order and cost the correct running gear.

In brief - for a board to self right itself, it has to be rotated from being upside down, horizontal with the water surface - to - just past vertical.
The point of longitudinal CG, around which the moment of rotation takes place, has to be at the level of, or just below the water line surface for this to take place. The rotational axis is generally down the middle line of the board from nose to tail.

With the rc surfer - the surfer brings the board from horizontal to partly vertical - BUT - the weight of the overall board' has to be able to submerge 50% of the board ( the one half in length) into the water to lower the CG to the water level, to allow it to rotate. If the board is to light, the CG will remain above the water surface line and the board will not rotate.

So - we need to calculate 'what weight' a given board size will need to weigh 'overall', to overcome the buoyancy of the one half side of the board, that is going to be needed to be submerged to allow the righting rotation.

The first example is my new board. I have simplified the maths but you can use the formula and realise a pretty accurate result - try it with your boards.

My board is 700mm long - 180mm wide - 40mm thick

Bouyancy = Volume X Sea Water Density (1030kg/mcubed)

To simply work out the one 1/2 side 'volume' of your board, also considering that portion of it is removed to realize the actual shape of the surfboard, I have calculated that 60% of the total half of the rectangle size we are using in simplicity (L X W X D) will be a good percentage figure for most style surfboards.

Multiply in M's

My board

0,7 (length) X 0.09 (half the board width) x 0,04 (thickness) x 60% (overall shape percentage estimate) =0,001512 M/3 X 1030 kg/M/3 (salt water density = 1.557 kg's needed to lower the CG to water level and allow the board to rotate. Overall required weight of board. In reality - I have tested it statically in a poool to be 1.5 kg's

Guessing the measurements of the NQD boards

0.65 x 0,09 x 0.55 x 60% = .002106 m/3 X 1030kg/M/3 =2.18 kg's overall required weight of board.

Other sizes to compare.

800mm long board 200 mm wide 50mm thick

(0.8 X 0.1 X 0,05 x60%) x 1030 = 2.472 kg's

900 long 250 wide 60 thick

(0.9 x 0.125 x 0.06 x 60%) x 1030 = 4.175 kg's

Whats interesting to learn from all of this is the 'exponential' weight increase required as the size of the board increases incrementally. A board only 200mm longer than mine will need to weigh 2.5 kg's more to be able to self right effectively. This will require much more power and mAh's to equal the shorter boards power to weight ratio and run times.

In my conclusion - its best to design a board around what the weight of the board and running gear will be - without added dead weight - this will be the most effective set up.
With my 700mm board and choice running gear - I need no added dead weight. maximizing the power to weight ratio.
As the boards get bigger it will become more difficult to simply up the motor and battery size to increase the required weight - although not impossible - you could store some serious mAh's in the board.........................................LOL

Please try this simple calculation and compare it to what your board weighs - let me know how they compare.

Regards
Dominic (YPC)

kitekook

Dreads, and anyone considering going down the road of custom building

Let me say I agree completely with YPC and the statement that you really have to know what you want when deciding to build your own board.

I would add that you have to consider your personal tastes and the expected conditions of your area, as there will be comprises to be made through out the process.

I know I spent countless hours looking into motors, esc's, servos, batteries, reading and re-reading this forum...making decisions based on my intended conditions and the images I kept seeing in my imagination.

Four months before I had my first working model...one a month since! So, if you think you need it quick....Maui********s.com or Surfcurls.com will get you setup quickly.

This is part of the joy you get building your own model. It is uniquely yours.

Don't get me wrong, I definitely looked for advise from the Surfers I most admired...Maui********s, JIMI, lolocarrera, and anything written or produced by Bad Billy.

...If I have seen further it is by standing on ye sholders of Giants-Sir Isaac Newton (1676)...but in the end, it is yours.

I think the issue of 'run times' is over emphasized...and dependent of the conditions you are encountering...faced with 'Mediterranean' conditions one could expect to get run times much longer than a session at 'Jaws'....personally, give me Jaws please as I get bored easily, and I built 'my' boards for those conditions i.e. extra glass on the board and more importantly the 'Surfer' herself, strong fins, I even use stainless steel for the rudder shaft(I laugh at extreme wipeouts! ok maybe not at the ItsFishi break...that one scares me! I think he's kinda crazy filming and running that one one-handed...lol )

Maybe it was the time I spent Skiing and Snowboarding Snowbird, riding the 'Tram'...3000 vertical feet in 8 minutes.... black diamond, double black, and even blacker(the yellow exclamation points) ways down a mountain buried under a blanket of powder snow! There we were, racing the Tram back down the mountain....were we worried about 'run times' ???? or were we into the sheer excitement of the moment???? 8 minutes up, 7 minutes down, 30 minute wait in line(if you were lucky), 10-12 times a day, 5 days a week, for 20 years! PUMPED!!!!!!

I get this same feeling running the 'divas in the Surf....PUMPED!!!! 10 minutes? 12? heck!,maybe even 8 sometimes!! I need the break to relish the past few moments, else they all blur into one.

I don't really keep track of time, my 'el cheapo deluxe radio does a lot but not that, and since I am not producing a model/brochure for anyone else...I think 'run times' are over emphasized, more important to me: can I even get to the surf zone? did it perform as I expected? did it survive? is it wet on the inside? can i ride again? is that very beautiful woman coming over to talk with me because she can't believe that my 'diva surfs so well!!!! lol

My 4 batteries keep me at the beach for about 1 1/2 hours...yes, even with my meager run times...time to answer questions,watch the surf,surfers, and gals watching the surfers, fumble with the helmut cam#^%@#!, savoring the STOKE! LIFE!... 'six batteries per hour'...lol

Longer run times would be nice...sure they would...but at what expense? I have now run 100 battery packs out of my latest two models and with one exception early(my goof in the build process) have been injury free! Tina did lose a little hair scraping on the Reef the other day...she's fine...bruised ego, nothing a little magic hair conditioner(epoxy) didn't solve....divas I tell you. lol



So my advise to the new builder....is the same advise I gave the snowboarders, skiers, kitesurfers, everyone really....look at what the Surfers you admire are using(words are not the same as photos/videos)
I remember the spray coming out of the mouths of new snowboarders on the Tram(it holds 125 people on the way up)...then watching them on the mountain....scrape,scrape, butt plant!

Start from there...tweak it for your given conditions...
You will have more than one...remember that when you place your order from HK (good prices...slooooooow shipping)

Close your eyes....what do you see?
Now go build it!

There was truth in the statement that once you start you may not stop...slow down, maybe...Stop...nah.


edit: Dom I think your formula works pretty good...mine was off by the weight of my surfer....your surfer bro does not weigh much... ssshhh...Tina could weigh less....ssshhh!

Hughengland

Kitekook says it perfectly
Just buy lots more batteries and run times mean nothing - just come to shore - check for leaks and change batteries.
Head back out and have a blast
I usually take at least 8 bricks and 2 different rc surfers to a surf session - sometimes more.
Go custom all the way
Hugh

YPC

[:'(]

YPC

Hi Kite

Thanks for 'calculating the formula' and comparing it to your build (pretty close resultant) I reckon it will be quite handy for planning each build. ( simple enough to remember)

What is the size and weight of your board ? What running gear are you using to drive it ?

Thanks to Archimedes - for his 'displacement formula' - we best keep our clothes on...............................trust you know the bath story.... i

Enjoyed your response to my opinions (spray) and your perspective on what makes a board work for you - being 'Pumped' - that is what it is all about. ( story of a guys life)

For most boats - bigger would simply be better I guess - But - for rc surfers - needing to 'self right - and be powered - it is a catch 22 situation ( deliberation) for the most of it.
Simply put - the bigger the board - the exponentially heavier it has to be to self right - requiring more power to drive it - no getting away from it. (not opinion, mere fact)

What size of board appeals to you - at what cost to run it ?

With my boars I have tried to keep the size benefit equal to the bigger boards by having the same visual perspective - yet been able to keep the cost of the build down and run time longer.
Realize this - the displacement of a smaller board is in effect equal to the displacement of a bigger board - 50% of its volume - so the boards will ride equally on the water surface
The smaller/lighter board will just need 'Less Power to do so"

I will take you advise next time I'm out on the beach - take a break during my long run times - see if some pretty girls come chat with me - I think I'm loosing out on some goooood opportunity's..........................LOL - All's Good !


Regards
Dominic (YPC)

itsfishi

runtime = funtime in my opinion also something to think about if you get 10 mins per charge and get 100 charges out of a pack thats 1000mins for that pack but if ya get 20mins out of that pack ya batt cost is halved. that 100 charges =2000mins just a thought.

rebuild is progressing
tried the solder route on shaft but couldnt get it to stick so went the glue method, which is what ose recomends. the blowtorch got the old flex out so easily which was good. just glassing the new stuff tube and motor mount in. took ages to get all lined up measured and set in right place(hopefully lol).

anyway back to it.

later

YPC

Hey Fish - are you on a well deserved tea break ?

Well done on your progress so far - I am as exited as you are to get it all WET and tested.

Dont hold back on pics

Good point you mention to consider the charging cycles - the more one thinks about it, the more one realizes !

I want to expand even more on the battery comparisons so as to help those who dont yet understand them entirely.


As kite sais - Pics and Videos tell the story - much the same for Technical jargon ( which in truth bores the @#$% out of me - BUT - cant be ignored)

For the Higher Amperage draw motors on the bigger boards, around100 A plus, you would need to purchase way above the 20c discharge rated packs, as well as be sure they are high mAh to start with - to ensure the safe draw down range.

A 5000mAh / 20c pack would give you just on 1666 mA/minute - Fully charged - which would be 'equal' to the draw of a 100 A motor (1666mAh) - "On the edge" for the first minute - after which it would damage battery and shorten life as the motor will be drawing more Amps than what the pack is designed to deliver.

For a 100 Amp draw motor - you would need a minimum of a 5000 mAh / 35c pack = 2916 mA/minute - even with this, after 5 minutes of running, 50% usage- you will be below the safe threshold at 1458 mA/minute. Running this for the remaining 30% will damage the pack

Even a 5000 mAh / 50c pack would not be the ideal pack for a 100 A motor Pack= 4166mA/minute fully charged - after you have used 60% of the mAh's- down to 2000mAh's- your discharge rate will be on 1666 mA/minute - after that for the last 20% you are operating below the safe discharge threshold.

So you would have to go for at least a 65c battery = 5416 mA/minute fully charged - at 80% amp discharge = 1083 mA/minute ( kind of OK)

With a 50A motor draw = 833 ma/minute draw - Would use a 4400 mAh /35 c pack = 2566mA/minute fully charged - at 80% discharge = 513 mA/minute (OK)

So, without a doubt - with the bigger boats - batteries will cost more, and you would need twice as many packs to enjoy the same amount of run time.
The Nett effect would be that your batteries will cost,'more than' twice as much to achieve the same run time and effect.

Its all in the the scale of 'economics' - worlds latest Buzz word.
Simply throwing more batteries at the set up is not a 'solution' for me.

Dont hold back on the pics

Regards
Dominic (YPC)

Cananzi

ypc

Im getting runtimes 15mins-25mins depending on surf conditions. I wonder if the shape of a board would play a part in it?

also I think a huge thing is how you run the board if your trigger happy or good with the throttle. Im really not sure how much my board weighs anymore because i found that my scales are not working properly when i weighed but all maths aside at the end of the day im getting 15-25mins runtime im stoked with that. my motor stays around 45 ,packs stay cool and esc is dead cold.

YPC

Hi Cananzi !

All things add up to 'run time' outcome - so sure ! the board design 'will make a big difference' - after all - it generates most of the DRAG factor - I am hoping with the new 'V' hull and 'no Pod' that the new hull will be even more efficient.

Correct prop size - shortest possible power leads - good cooling of motor and ESC (independent inlets) low amp steering servo -Paralleled battery set up helps, as each battery only see's half the amp draw, so they dont get as hot.To much grease in the stuffing tube can generate plenty of DRAG - especially if it is a 'thick' grease - have good free play in the drive shaft housing.If you are running thrust washers - make sure they are up to scratch.
Only carry as much weight as is needed to self right.

As a matter of interest and to add to the 'Info' for myself and others - What is your set up hardware - board sizes and estimated weight.
Some close ups would also be great.

Run Time - needs to be estimated to be a duration of fare constant operation time. driven slow and fast.
As you say - the 'Happy Trigger' eats the Amps - more so with the heavier boards or less efficient boards- it just makes sense that its harder to initiate movement with a bigger load, either due to weight or drag.

I'm not advocating that one cant get 20 minutes run time from a 3 ft board, weighing close to 4 kg's - If I built one - I would run 10 000 mAh ( 2 X 5000mAh/50c packs paralleled) Plenty of buoyancy available. = batts will offer 8333 mA/minute at full charge draw down capacity & at 80% mA's used = 1666 mA/minute - just perfect.

Formula for batteries per minute discharge capacity : Total battery Amps X batt C - divided by 60 ( per minute) = mA/minute - the correct choice of C is for the mA/minute to be equal to the motors mA/minute draw at 80 % used amps of batteries total mAh.

Motors mA/Minute = Motor Amp draw divided by 60 = mA/minute

I am merely trying to highlight the comparative cost implications. Its been proven that most all combinations 'Small - Medium - Large - boards- work to one measure or another.

The decision in what one builds, boils down to size preference and ' in the money outlay ? '

I,m not wanting to be a Robin Hood - but know from experience that most folk are very cost sensitive and need to keep it all in a realistic perspective - otherwise - it just wont happen !


Regards
Dominic (YPC)