Cananzi

Gday rogue

I reused the foam on most of mine. Didnt really notice any difference with or without. go crazy with the marine silcone!! Try pay special attention around the rudder area with the marine silcone...dont be shy with it.

Hobbyking is the best place for parts by far. the stocklinkage tube is fine to re use
I would make sure you epoxy or glass in something underneath the engine mount so when mounting the motor you have something to screw into..the stock plastic is pretty poor.

if you were willing to go all the way with the board you could tap back threw the nuts in the towers and slot threw m5 bolts and epoxy them in and then glass a flat fibreglass decklid. then you can have a wingnut setup which so far for me has been way better then the stock lid.

any questions just fire away. good luck

K-H2o

Yor D controversy
Sorry to bore all those who don't care, but I have to update you on the latest. Emailing Leopard motors about the Y or D winding motorIt is a secret what a Y and D winding does, but I was asked what I was using it for and they would tell me the what winding they recommend. I described the RC Surfer and this is thereply.

"Sorry for my delay. According to your informations, we'd like to recommend our 28x60mm motor with Y winding, if you want faster speed, you could choose 2Y. Hope this is helpful for you."

OK, so they say the Y is better for a RC Surfer as I hypothesized. Now why was 2Y faster ? After trying to get them to tell me the rario of the number and the responce in kv I got this Email.


Hi Karl,

Glad to see this is helpful for you!

You may mis-understand something like the ratio. There is no relation between no. and KV, I mean no ratio between each other. Customers care about most is the KV. Please understand I am unable to tell details, as this is technical secret.

Thank you!


Our Sport is classified Top Secret !!! Get out the dartboard or call the CIA

Aloha, Karl

trippergreenfeet

Leopard sound like they think they own brushless tech, they're dreaming.

I reckon I will be able to get the answer to this question via the owner of one of the leading manufaturers of brushless motors on the market.

Sorry Leopard, you sound like a bunch of pretentious so & so's, saying that Y & D tech is secret, if it's so secret, then why can the multitude of other BLS motor manufacturers produce motors with these windings?

Cananzi

Karl

It would be great to know the difference so we are not just throwing a dart and hoping for a bullseye
That is really weird that they cant tell you. Maybe theres some sort of language barrier or the person replying to the emails has no idea. Or they think they are Brushless Motor Gods lol
Its really strange for them to recommend a 28mm can. Most boards seem to be around the 2kg mark or more i wouldnt think a 28mm would be able to handle the weight to well and over heat or run to hot.


Tripper

That would be awesome if you could ask TP or someone. I cant find anything on the net about it.

Cananzi

boyz

heres the dimensions for the transmitter/sensor on the solo shot armband....should fitside a custom

H 6.5cm x 4.5cm x 2.5cm

rogue29

Thanks for the info Cananzi... When you said glass a new decklid, could i glass underneath stock and run the wingnut setup through it? Or would it still be to flimsy. I was thinking about getting some plexi like i have seen on some other custom setups for decklid. Maybe later...just want to get this in the water first after going through and sealing up as much as i can. I already am scratching my head on how i am going to seal up rudder area when i put another rudder back through the hull. Not sure about the stock bi fin rudder...feels cheap. Is there a good source for better rudder, seals and linkage? Also should i reuse the stock weight bars in the hull or add more inside or shine the inside all together and just add the weight to bottom of keel and marine putty it flushed with the bottom of keel. How does surfer girls foot peg cups come out. Just pry and replace the plastic band bars with ss or alum? Also am going to shorten girl a bit to get a lower stance and make her goofy since that my stance. Looks like goofy i would just have to turn her head the other way... Glassing something under motor mounts cause the plastic is weak.. just some thicker plastic backing? Thanks.
Dave.

Cananzi

Rogue

Just about anything is better then the original deck lid. If you keep the original decklid your better off sticking to the orginal bolting system. the wingnuts wont fit in the top of the decklid.
With the stock lid ,You will need to strengthen the lid with glass or some rods underneath.
Also fill the lip in flush on the hull where the bottom seal sits. I used Qcell filler then brushed a coat of finishing resin over the top so that the seal would stick well to it.

If your sticking to the stock internal structure then i would add more weight in. i threw the weights that it came with and glassed in small lead sinkers roughly (250grams) but its up to you how much.
The best thing to do with the NQD's i have seen is gutting part of the internal structure out completely.
Here is marks NQD that was completely stripped out he also runs a slight negitive rocker.....some guys are against them but i think the footage speaks for itself. i would consider puting some on your nqd it will stop the dredded hop/bounce that some guys boards get.

http://youtu.be/sRCkZ4-eoC0


The stock bi fin rudder is great if you do the 4mm solid shaft mod on it but some guys run single fins and they are still great. Some vendors are charging $40 for a single fin.They are really easy to make so if you go a single fin just make one ...very easy/cheap to do.

I would replace the plastic bars in the feet and also change the footpegson the deck to some ss wingnuts.

For the backside underneath the motor mount I cut a bit of small hardwood to shape and epoxied it in and it work extremely well.

surfcurls

I only know of one Vendor Selling Bad Billy Custom Made Single fins @ $40...
One Must Also Remember The Top Shelf Customer Service Comes FREE
"Do it Yourself" for less is Not Always THE Answer most want to hear.
That's why I am Here To Keep The Stoke Going !

Cananzi

Curly

I am only pointing out how EXTREME prices are for a single fin and that an easyer option is to make one. Rogue obviously has the skills to fiberglass as he mentioned so of course i am going to send him in that direction. He could make 8 for that price.

Good customer service is ment to be free

K-H2o

Dand Y winding Hey guys thanks for taking up the quest for truth !!! I was asking about the 28mm x 60mm motor that was not there recommendation. Nice little motor, puts out a 1300 watt burst. pretty insane !!!
Tripper-if you get the textbook info on the motor classifications I would stoked to read it !!! Here is a forum all about it but has conflicts and grey areas.http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?1082-Delta-or-Wye&s=82107b3846f45b155b073760b13befb0
YPC- You should know this one why is it kv / rpm? like it should be V / rpm So if I have a 1000 kv motor on 12 volts I am expecting to get up to 12,000 rpm right ? If it is kv (kila volts,or 100 volts ) kv / rpm it should be in my brain 120 rpm. .12 kvis 12 volts ? .12 x 1000 = 120
( it takes a lot to admit I don't know this so don't laugh ) Maybe that is why Iam a board shaper ???

Aloha, Karl

trippergreenfeet

K-H20, the info I get will be accurate I'm sure, it'll come straight from the owner of Scorpion motors. He supplies the motors that Full Pitch, the RC heli frame and upgrade manufacturer I'm pilot for. One thing Georges is clued up on is BLS motors and speedies.

YPC

Hi Karl...........maybe "its a secret"..........means - "we dont quite know ourselves.....or...its just what 'other manufacturers' are doing.... or.... what a 'designer' told us to do"..........LOL

Like the badge on my GIANT mountain bike............often sais it all !


Hi Cananzi - When I checked the Leopard 28 mm specs - the 2860 has the same power as the 3650 - I think they recommended the 28 mm because it is 'thinner'- to better fit into a board.

I run a HK 2850 Y - 3600 kv in board #4 ............which weighs 1950 g's............it runs well ( cool)



IMO.......the one single difference that is relevant - between the Y and D is that:

The D - when 'off the throttle' - the prop is 'free running'.

The Y - when 'off the throttle' - the prop has 'rotational resistance'.

So D would be good for planes - Y -Good for Cars to slow them down - and for rc Surfers - its your choice....................I'm in two minds.......

Dominic (Bro'Surfer)

YPC

Hi Karl............

Sometimes it no good trying to understand 'something' - its just better to figure out 'how it works........ that's the advise my Dad gave me the night before I got married.......LOL and its helped me the past 18 years............LOL

kv = RPM/V - the the kv is not a kilo volt . The true output RPM is not equal to the theoretical calculated RPM -True RPM will obviously vary due to running friction and load.


But now I am confused - if you are a 'board shaper' why are you not shaping custom rc boards ?

Dominic (Bro'Surfer)

bearcave

Hi guys.

Realy likin the D v Y motor talk.... One point that always sticks out when dealing with people that don't speak read or write english is the conversion factor... ie if something is a 'technical secret' it could mean that we don't understand why you need to know andwe don't care anyway, we just make em... cheap...lol

AndDom that advice your father gave to you many years a go is priceless.... but why dowomen always challenge that basic principle... haha!

Imentioned before of my dislike ofthe bi-fin and negative rocker but not knowing a lot about board design i am very happy to see what happens in the future... canazi'sthoughtsare relevent and as there are still many variations of rear ends out therethis forum islooking better every day.

ANYWAY i was hopeing i could get some advice regardeing driveline lubrication..... and thanks again to Karl and Domfor their excellent descriptions and pics of their setups a few pages back.... MOK too for his custom flexy.

Q. If Iwas running a std solid shaft of 4mm (3/16") in a board weighing approx 1.8kg(4lbs) with a max shaft speed of 30,000rpm running a 1.4pitch 30mm prop in an oversize outer tube with a brass bush maybe 1" longat both ends, would i be better off with grease or oil......

And either way what type/grade/viscosity of oil or greasewould be best?

Thanks for any info....bear

YPC

Hey Bearcave...........they say marriage is the 'only war' were you 'sleep with the enemy !.....LOL...dont try sharing that at home.....you could get hurt.......LOL -
Hey - I do Love my wife....shes my Life.

Back to important things......like rc surfing.....seen that you can not pop over to my place, I ran a quick water test to 'film' the two Fins ........in action.

Personally........I think one should own both and get to know when best to use them...........

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EuUZnFtLU-w[/youtube]

Both Fins are Hand made.......

Dominic (Bro'Surfer)

PS - I used my Pistol Grip Camera mount set up for this footage - certainly helped !

Cananzi

Hey dom

Great video. Really shows the differences.Bi fin was alot more stable but the single fin looked quicker.

At the end you said a single would be better for faster hollow waves.On my board I found the bi fin held the boards rail alot better in hollow waves then a single fin.Single fin had a tendency to lean the outside rail down.The upside with the single was how loose the board is ...which is something i really like in a board. I alsofound that hitting the lip or roundhouse cutbacks the bifin was alot better .

powerpark

My Feedback: (1)

YPC Great video. I have to get a single fin so I have both. I see advantages of both. I have a freshwater creek I call my test track. Its just shallow enought to walk out and get the surfer .
Your board looks great , keep the videos comming! Also regreased the drive shaft does really help keep the water out. I do it everytime I take the board out now.
Cya

YPC

Hi Canazi.......

The Bi- Fin IMO - is a better all round fin..............I rated the single fin for the hollow sections just because of the better speed..........as you say the Bi Fin could have better hold.

Bro'

YPC

Hey PP....either one will do for the most of it .....BUT....its worth having both fins.........even if only for fun.....

Make sure that you use a grease that is 'thin-nish'.........that reduces its viscosity when it heats up............thick, tenacious grease will suck the power out of your set up.

Good old RED RUBBER GREASE is a good one.........there are many products offered on the market for rc drive shafts.

Bro'

My new Bro' - Board Brand Decal

bearcave

YPC don't you ever sleep!

But while your into fins what would be your thoughts on a bi-fin without the downforce tabs.... sorry mrs YPC but i had to ask.


F1TUNNELL..... IMO any inspiration from J Lo can only be good foran rc surfer girl....

YPC

Hey BC...........sleep...........with 4 kids...... LOL .........no chance............anyway, to much sleep it a waste of 'good quality time'..........hence the 4 kids ....
We all get given 24 hrs in every day ...........its how we spend those hours, that makes all the difference.

A Bi - fin without the down force tabs ? - may run more nose down on the straight as the fin generates more drag ( in turn lift ) than a single fin. The turns also wont have as much nose lift, and the tail wont be drawn in as much.

The tabs are certainly a big part and were the fin can be tuned to better suite the board, that is why the aluminium is a good material for them to be made of.

Bro'

powerpark

My Feedback: (1)

YPC The more I think about the single fin I can see how easy it can be made. I have some brass sheets laying around. Soldering it to a rod looks like it will be easy. My board likes to bounce at 3/4 to full throttle. Hopefully the single fin will help. Maybe adding some skid plates will help too. Boy you guys got me thinking!!!! Also I have been using marine wheel bearing grease. It works very well.

YPC

Hey PP.................its that easy.......Itsfishi runs a brass plate rudder on his modigied production board with great effect. Its proven to be especially more robust as he surfs in-front of a rock face/ledge which he more than often is washed onto. Just bends it straight.

I use a 4mm thick piece of plywood - laminated with 6 oz cloth in a 3/2/1 layer sequence from top to bottom to give the area around the pivot shaft strength.

From what I have read - a start to resolving the bounce in your board would be better remedied with some weight added to the fwd keel ( at least 150 grams) and some in the very front of the housing ( about 50 grams) - ask JIMI FINDRIX to give you the details........he has got the production boards balance 'waxed'

The trailer wheel bearing grease 'will' prevent water intrusion - but - it is quite thick and tacky.......a lighter grease will be 'easier on the motor. remember - you are doing a RPM of 25000 plus.......

Bro'

jocktime

 Mort,
    Your 5 cell battery should be here today or tomorrow.

K-H2o

OOps