K-H2o

Yo- I could call ya and tell you that is a great shot, but I'll post it. That is a great shot !!! Realistic , some mad man going for the drop at Waimea. Hugh and MJ, photo contest winner !!

Hughengland

Maui Sat Sunrise session with Karl. MJ & Hugh:
I will let the photos do the talking - hope for more Sunday.

MJ down the line - same wave

Hughengland

MJ blasting thru the lip Sat sunrise

Hughengland

MJ - another day at the office!

YPC

Hey Guys !....really great to see you all back in the water and ripping.....very nice pics.......hope their will be a video to follow.

We had a great very early morning session down at long beach......video to follow..... we were lucky to have a young chap by the name of TOM take a few great shots..of Bro in Action.


Big Thanks TOM.....you have a great eye !

bearcave

hey brohave no links to the 48incher...

I'm a bit time poor butstill tryto check out the Youtubeeach month for the latestand saw the vid..... rchawaiin has some more vids too..... sick

btw latest pics right here on the rcu lookin good too

YPC

Bro surf report - Cape Town - South Africa....

The interim video camera we used only has a 4 X's zoom, so most of the footage is quite distant. The light was also down at the start of the session prior to the sun rising.
Great session - with a few great moves and barrels..........STOKED !

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgey8ttKQ8g[/youtube]

Hughengland

Sunday Maui - rc surfed by myself today - long lefts 4ft range, hollow fast with some reef damage.
deck screws pulled lose so I tightened them down more & went out as it was sooo good.
Water got in thru loose lid after getting thrashed by a few big ones resulting with fire in the bilge - almost melted the whole board.
First time I have had fire in hull - smell that refuses to go away.
Fixed all in afternoon and now ready for more surf.

YPC

Howzit Hugh.......Phew !......I can smell it from here !.......LOL

Glad you all had some waves the weekend.......Maui kicking back into action.......looking forward to the footage !

Bro'

RC Resinator

MAUI CREW,
Hugh... sick wave..there is no better place than Maui with waves! Sorry to see your carbon fiber model with fire damage! What caused the fire? Salt water?

Mj
The Green Flash looks right at home in the Green Room! Who took the killer photos?

KARL,
You are right, the photo of Hugh, looks real! Hugh you are charging!! Who ever took the photo GREAT JOB!!

BEARCAVE....WHO KNEW YOU COULD HAVE THIS MUCH FUN WITH A BROKEN SURFBOARD!! LOL

YPC
The video is too lame to post again...I will get you something better, without the copyright infringement.

The swell showed up here only head hgh. Homesick for Maui!
Aloha RC Resinator

InDaTube

Hey Resinator....

We should hook up and do a session at the San Clemente Pier......

Would be great fun.

Larry

Hughengland

Reply to Resinator's questions:

Fire caused by salt water leaking into my reef damaged board that I should not have gone out with - addicted for more great waves.
- live and learn......well maybe not lean......

MJ took the picture of Hugh dropping into a big right
- he says he has even better shots of some of my rides in that session - still waiting for him to post them on forum.

Hugh took pictures of MJ Green Flash - Canon 60D with 2.8f 200mm 'L' series lens

Swell still hitting Maui's South Shores.

bearcave

hey resinator

i grew up within the 'waste not want not ' principles educated into me from the older gen.... makin something new from old or thrown awaywill probalways bepart of my life... havin fun with a broken surfboard rocks my boat but your 48incher takes it to another level... lol

hugh

shame about the fire yet to have one yetatm i'm justinto zzzt electronics... lol...btw that carbon fibre still looks good even after flames but hey.

All Good enthusiasts certainly like checkin in here now and then to see the latest happenings.. bc

bearcave

Hi Hugh

you mentioned the water leak was from a deck stud pulling up...

was wonderingon this boardif you are using the Bro type threaded styleor mj bolt type ones... reason askin is that i've spent many years trying different ideas sealing the deck on the kyo/nqd... the boardsharks deck already has good sealing principles also has aforce sheild part of the deal so didn't touch that... atm lol

as the kyo/nqd decks have only 4 hold down points a stiff deck is needed... have tried a bead type seal withcarbonbars onthe kyo deckand carbon stripsand tube alloy on nqd deck... but whatever you do the lid always sits higher and without a force sheild prob cops more water entry from wave force rather than presure...

from what i see the maui style boardshave moulded decks and bolthead type studs while Bro is using the threaded stud style with a flat deck and force sheild.

am building one atm and sticking withoriginal planof flat deckwith 9 threaded studs shareing the load with aforce sheild bro style... .. on the otherhand i could go a bead type sealing systemsimilar to the maui way with a bigger deck BUT rekon might need more strength in the hold down points.?

Anyway..
Any thoughtsfrom yourself or anyone on gettinga good seal i'm sure anyone would like to get their paws on...... bc

bearcave

a quick drawing of what i mean when i say bead type sealing...

btw KH-2o makes custom boards underneath a boardsharks deck... obviously the leaning guy needs are part of this but the way the deck fits into the board and the hard line 5 bolt sealing systemisworthy of mention.

just sayin hope it createssome thoughts....

powerpark

My Feedback: (1)

My Second Surfer almost done. Cant wait to hit the waves.

powerpark

My Feedback: (1)

YPC

Howzit PowerPark.........all looks 'Good to Go'

Wishing you great surf and good footage !

Bro'

powerpark

My Feedback: (1)

YPC Yo Yo Yo  from Philly, Pa. !!! Yea its really nice to have a back up board. I got lucky again on the net. Man is it fun working on this board. I painted the bottom of the board green. Helps to see it when if flips over In the surf. Thanks again to everyone Posting ideas on this page.

dreadrock

G'day Crew, Awesome shot's coming out of maui, I'm so jealous, you guy's are killing it...Yeeew
 Bear, i went with the bro style fixing of the deck bolt's, nice fit, clean build, worked sweet etc etc...I have had 4 deck bolts pull through thus far, admittedly i used 30 min epoxy not the slow set that Dom suggests..now those 4 are set in Maui style ( laminating resign with a little MEKP), if i had more neoprene seal on hand, i would've pulled the others an then put a layer or 2 of cloth over the top to hold em down.
 In hind site i'd just use a bolt with the head left on and a nut just below the deck height (around 10mm spacing), fix in with resign (an a little MEKP) if using sun cure resign, make sure everything fits as should, once set lay a couple of layers of cloth over the top to keep everything stuck/at home an where you want it.
My problems started after Ol Mate went for a swim an i re stuck him to the deck adding around 4 layers of glass to the edges of the deck lid, as it was stiffer, i pulled the nuts down to what was normal (or so i thought) resulting in the deck bolts letting go...(stiff lid = little too/no flex as i was use too...9 layers 6oz cloth(now 13)) Live and learn....Your build is looking great, i am looking forward to seaing it all together...
You do realise that this is just the begging, with no known cure so i've been told, an yep they're right, just look at Kite...lmao...i've started #3, been shaping tonight, pix to come soonish with any luck, my camera is having a major hissy fit of late but i'm sure i'll get some pix somehow
Happy Building
Cheers Nig
 

surfcurls

I can share a bit of what I learned About Deck Screws With the rigorous testing
for the V2 Model.

We have tried All kinds of ways to set the deck screws
and decided on This Method:

Like Dread Mentioned in hindsight, We sink the whole pan head SS Screw into
the already glassed rail (Pan head still attached) in a slightly oversize hole we drilled (don't use a nut above the rail).
We found that using 2 hr Marine Epoxy (3000 psi strength) Allowed us time to set the screws, clean the edges
and align the bolts to the lid. The next day, The bolts are so strong, even a wrench with a dummy test nut couldn't get them to pull away.
With the Pan head Submerged, The epoxy made a flanged plug, and not just a saturated thread wall on the foam...

It's a hot topic considering Hugh's carbon lid pop, and Dreads post.

Also, The Knurl Nuts look nice, but We're sticking with wing nuts.
I think the wing nuts have better leverage to get the best seal
with the least amount of effort, and want the deck wing nutz cranked as tight as you can get them.

bearcave

hey Dread nice info.

End of day i'm thinking there has to beflex somewhere between board and rider.....?

I too like the bro studs but he does have a flexy dude.... and after layin up 8 layers of glass to use as one type of deck i was surprised how flexy it is even before i cut out a deck... but then again prob why a solid guy like Ol Mate and the maui style riders can get away without flexy foot attachments like kyo dudes n lisa's.

I'm still keen to do a waveforce barrier and thinkin plywood...and if careful with the jigly saw may make a deck out of what i cut out from said barrier... then again it will be very stiff and need a flexy dude which as first test pilot will be my kyo dude.. (could be a while before i fabricate my own old mate... 5stars on your guy btw)

I too have thought along your ideas of the nut below the deck with a few layers of glass on top to reduce pull through... even considered drilling right through the board and fitting countersunk head bolts..(could be a last ditch go after pulling all the bolts through later on but..)
I realy like the high strength epoxy and have had much success with it in all sorts of situations and yeh its much stronger than the 5min cure but in this scenario i think its more about the fact we are only glueing to foam not solid stuff.....?

btw looks to me we are building (i am you already have.. lol) similar size boards along the kyo lines... realy like your shape but i'm tryin to get a more flat bottom boat hull rather than a surfboard style one and only time will tell if it works....

And yes it is way addictive and now understand why Kite has now built over 20 boards!!!!.... I spent a year workin out how i would dothis custom with virgin glassing to learnand as soon as i started i thought of other ways... and have at least 6 other shapes in my head for the future boards.... haha... and half the construction is now happeninon my lounge room (cave dwelling flat rock) table!

All good.... thanks for the info look fwd to more pics of your addiction.... bc

YPC

Howzit Dread - BC - and others............

This is a 'very important' even critical part of the boards integrity and needs special attention to every detail throughout the process. Both methods discussed have proven to work well - yet if not done to the absolute T - can and will fail, as experienced by some - causing major damage and cost implications.

With the Bro method - I use a syringe to pressure inject the slow curing epoxy into the drilled hold, ensuring that the epoxy (under pressure) is forced into all the open cells surrounding the drilled hole - creating a wider/ solid area into which the threaded stud is anchored.

Other important points are:
De-greasing the studs to ensure that the epoxy is able to bond to the S/S
Use a 'very slow' curing epoxy (over night)
Use a fully threaded stud.
Sufficient epoxy in the hole - DON'T PUSH THE STUDS INTO THE HOLE - rotate them in as if you would be screwing them into a nut. this ensures that the entire thread is well coated with epoxy.
Foam density will also play a part in the case of both methods as to the overall strength of the stud. Most surfboard polyurethane foam is 40kg/cube density rated - I use a 80kg/cube rated foam.

TIGHTENING DOWN - this can also create a problem. effectively when the hatch cover is secured we really only need to compress the foam/rubber seal by about 50%.
If we 'over torque' the nuts - it can disrupt the bond between the foam and the stud - causing the stud to loosen fail.

WIDE WING NUTS - allow plenty of leverage when fastening the hatch cover - one needs to be cautious NOT TO OVER TOQUE the wing nuts.

I prefer to use and supply the plastic knurled nuts - besides the aesthetic look being neater IMO - they reduce the risk of Over Torquing due to their lessor diameter leverage.
The plastic thread - from my experience - has stripped before any of the studs have been disrupted.

To date I have not had a stud fail on any of my own boards or any of my customers boards and continue to use this system with confidence.

Bro'

bearcave

hi bro

for better or worse i'm gunnago the 4mm threaded stud bro style.... i can buy epoxy that pre-mixes in a long tube (how it mixes properly will be a test in itself lol..) and pressure it hard into the foam hole... might even get a wire scraper pointy thing and cut out some foam within the hole....then screw in some de-greased studs.

also thinkin if i use 9 studs with large plastic nuts.. (looked far and wide to find some... not sure where you get your ones from... ended up with some 15mm diameter similar ones from a UK pushbike shop).. ishould be able to spread the load within the mega bolts and wide nuts and not need to tighten them much at all... will beuseing rubber o ring kyo dude on a ply deckas my first go too.... and being my first experiment with at least two weeks before i stud up anything could happen and everything could still change.... lol

Powerpark...... my kyo has worn bearings and an esc waiting to be waterproofed and if wasn't covered ina fiber dust and resin trip with bench space to play electrics i would be now be surfin it..... but i am interested in your rope bit around the nose.... first impressions are that its a nudge gaurd but hey if its a performance enhanceing thing you have to share more.....

end of day all is good enthusiasts/addicts.... best regards to all... bear in cave

YPC

Howzit BC....

You should rather ensure that the epoxy is mixed 100% by mixing it up by hand on a mixing board - THEN - transfer it into a small syringe that has the same nozzle OD as the 4mm hole ID so that it seals whilst you are pressuring the epoxy into the cavity ( you don't want it to be able to ooze out)
If you hollow the internal hole out further - you will run the risk of the stud being out of perpendicular alignment which will cause hassles when placing the hatch cover on.
I always place the hatch cover over the studs 'whilst' it is curing to ensure perfect alignment.
I place a slice of silicon tubing around the stud to equally gauge the depth/protrusion and to prevent the hatch from coming into contact with the epoxy.
Once the epoxy has cured I remove the masking tape and silicon slice of tubing then clean up around the the threaded stud.

All the detail just to secure a 4mm stud.........LOL.......into a block of foam...........quite amazing that it works which ever way we do it....!

Bro'