RC Surfer
06-14-2013, 03:20 AM
#6901
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RE: RC Surfer
BC........LOL.....you are going to have me in tears mate..LOL.....a few days in my crazy household - filled with 4 kids and umpteen pets...."You will be cured !" ......I wish I could slip into your 'cave' every so often for some 'peace and quiet'........LOL
Have a 'GREAT WEEKEND MATE !
Bro'
Have a 'GREAT WEEKEND MATE !
Bro'
06-14-2013, 06:50 AM
#6902
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RE: RC Surfer
Hi Guys,
I have a question:
I sometimes have an issue with "Spinning Out" on sharp turns.
Was wondering what fin/rudder angle setup you guys are using.
Would love to have photos of your setup for full right and left fin travel.
InDaTube
06-14-2013, 08:36 AM
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RE: RC Surfer
mini surfers
i am sorry i have not been contributing to the forum
ypc great vids ,, the first one is a two beer vid ,,
bearcave looks like a real pro
karl Halloween is not until October lol
i am sorry i have not been contributing to the forum
ypc great vids ,, the first one is a two beer vid ,,
bearcave looks like a real pro
karl Halloween is not until October lol
06-14-2013, 08:47 AM
#6904
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RE: RC Surfer
Howzit Indatube.......Interesting Question :.......the slide is a nice feature to have .....but it needs to be 'controllable'
From my experience -here are a few considerations:...... I do find that the single fins are 'loser' than the Bi - Fin's.
The single fin, been directly in the line of the prop thrust - lifts the tail of the board more, especially in the turns - the single fin directs most of the props thrust line toward the inside rail when turning, which will generate more sideways thrust.....causing spin out.
With the Bi-Fin - the props thrust line is 'mostly' directed in between the fins - far less sideways thrust in the turns - the two fins also have more grip/hold -and- the end tabs pull the tail down.The Bi-Fin requires less degree of rudder throw than a single fin, to achieve the same amount of turn......diminishing the side thrust.
With you now running the 5s set up - the added power on the prop as well as the added weight of the battery aft of the CG could also be a contributing factor in the tail stepping out.
I am not entirely sure - but I recall your board having a slight V in the tail surface, which is also more inclined to slide out....
If you find that the board slides more when turning right as apposed to left - this would be due to the 'prop walking' - i.e.- due to the counter rotating prop & been a 'surface piercing' prop. It has a tendency to climb onto the surface in a tight turn and literally paddle ( walk) on the surface of the water.....stepping the tail out......the bigger the prop diameter and the more power....the easier this comes about.
What is your average Prop Diameter ?........
Try reducing your 'Throttle rate' in its initial acceleration stage curve so that it does not 'explode' with power at the low end....I mostly come off the power when I initially execute a turn and add throttle as I feel it is needed...
Bro'
From my experience -here are a few considerations:...... I do find that the single fins are 'loser' than the Bi - Fin's.
The single fin, been directly in the line of the prop thrust - lifts the tail of the board more, especially in the turns - the single fin directs most of the props thrust line toward the inside rail when turning, which will generate more sideways thrust.....causing spin out.
With the Bi-Fin - the props thrust line is 'mostly' directed in between the fins - far less sideways thrust in the turns - the two fins also have more grip/hold -and- the end tabs pull the tail down.The Bi-Fin requires less degree of rudder throw than a single fin, to achieve the same amount of turn......diminishing the side thrust.
With you now running the 5s set up - the added power on the prop as well as the added weight of the battery aft of the CG could also be a contributing factor in the tail stepping out.
I am not entirely sure - but I recall your board having a slight V in the tail surface, which is also more inclined to slide out....
If you find that the board slides more when turning right as apposed to left - this would be due to the 'prop walking' - i.e.- due to the counter rotating prop & been a 'surface piercing' prop. It has a tendency to climb onto the surface in a tight turn and literally paddle ( walk) on the surface of the water.....stepping the tail out......the bigger the prop diameter and the more power....the easier this comes about.
What is your average Prop Diameter ?........
Try reducing your 'Throttle rate' in its initial acceleration stage curve so that it does not 'explode' with power at the low end....I mostly come off the power when I initially execute a turn and add throttle as I feel it is needed...
Bro'
06-14-2013, 08:52 AM
#6905
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RE: RC Surfer
Thanks MJ....LOL ...iI guess it depends on 'how fast you drink your beers'
LOL .....Karl's Casper the Ghost outfit........- I fear if not worn by more of us - we may become Ghosts sooner that we ought to be......LOL
Bro'
LOL .....Karl's Casper the Ghost outfit........- I fear if not worn by more of us - we may become Ghosts sooner that we ought to be......LOL
Bro'
06-14-2013, 10:06 AM
#6906
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RE: RC Surfer
Thanks YPC,
Your analysis is pretty much what I came up with as well...... "Like Minds" lol
With my new power train: Leopard 3674 / 2,200kv motor /Aquacraft Grim Racer 36X55/Balanced/Sharpened/polished
and the 5S Lipo's along with a ready to surf weight of 8.55 pounds.... it is truly "Explosively Powerful".
Something else is that my servo is lightning fast at .09!
This issue came about with the above modifications and will require an adjustment in how I apply this power. Your last statement about gradually applying the throttle when carving a bottom turn or cutback is the real key. But, as you know... sometimes in the "Heat of Battle" we all get a little trigger happy... thus the "Spinout".
I am also finding that placing my cutback just a little lower on the face keeps the prop in the water and makes for a cleaner move.. with more spray for an added bonus.
Thanks for your input on this....... "If it was Easy, anybody could do it"!!
InDaTube
Aquacraft Grim Racer 36X55, 2 Blade Prop, LH
Unshipped
Your analysis is pretty much what I came up with as well...... "Like Minds" lol
With my new power train: Leopard 3674 / 2,200kv motor /Aquacraft Grim Racer 36X55/Balanced/Sharpened/polished
and the 5S Lipo's along with a ready to surf weight of 8.55 pounds.... it is truly "Explosively Powerful".
Something else is that my servo is lightning fast at .09!
This issue came about with the above modifications and will require an adjustment in how I apply this power. Your last statement about gradually applying the throttle when carving a bottom turn or cutback is the real key. But, as you know... sometimes in the "Heat of Battle" we all get a little trigger happy... thus the "Spinout".
I am also finding that placing my cutback just a little lower on the face keeps the prop in the water and makes for a cleaner move.. with more spray for an added bonus.
Thanks for your input on this....... "If it was Easy, anybody could do it"!!
InDaTube
Aquacraft Grim Racer 36X55, 2 Blade Prop, LH
Unshipped
06-14-2013, 11:28 AM
#6907
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RE: RC Surfer
InDaTube- I would say your setup is a bit to high kv for 5 cells. I have a 8 lb. board that has Leopard 4082 , 1000 kv and on 4 cells it goes 30mph. with about the same prop. If you take your kv and multiply by your volts you willget 44,000 rpm.times pitch of prop = about 2" per rev. your boat should reach a drag free speed of 83 mph.
Rudder max is around 30-45 degrees eachway,but bottom shape and keelall go into what happens in a turn.
If your radio has expodencial you can deadenthe center.
The hood is kooky looking that is for sure. Getting your face right up in the resin with out feeling it.... Priceless especialy for Epoxies. Epoxies are more toxic for ya, but polyester has a lot more solvents ( fumes )coming out of it.
I can go tick or treating next year as bubble boy,solves that problem. KH
06-14-2013, 11:35 AM
#6908
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RE: RC Surfer
Howzit Indatube.....its DVD night with the kids at the Young's house....... its pouring with rain and 'very cold'.....Winter is upon us......
Some more thoughts:
I reckon you may well be 'over powered'
2200kv with a 5s set up is some serious 'explosive' RPM - At full charge = 21 v's x 2200 kv = 46200 rpm (unloaded) - Even when you are down to 3.7 v's you will still have a very high RPM of over 40 000 RPM ( 18.5 v's X 2200) ....not recommended..........35 000 rpm is a recommended resultant for most battery.motor combo choices.
A 1850 kv motor would perhaps have been a better choice - (21V) 38 850 rpm - (18.5v) 34 225 rpm range.....
Have you set your ESC's motor timing down to 'zero degrees' ? - that will produce - smoothest acceleration - the lowest RPM - highest torque - coolest motor - longest run time.
At 8.5 pounds you could run a smaller prop diameter - 32 mm -still have big speed - it would reduce the 'explosive acceleration - reduce the torque roll and prop paddle effect - run a deeper tail - smooth out the overall power drive feel.
Fast servo's are great - perhaps you could reduce you 'Steering Dual Rate' to reduce the sensitivity......set the board up to carve the turn rather than 'snap' in the turn.....I prefer a under steer feel to an over steer feel....
The general max. angle of attack rule with most all foils ( wings - rudders - etc) is that after more than 40 degrees of deviation, the foil will simply stall - i.e. losses its directional control and effect - major cause of spin out - if the rudder is to small or ineffective by design - that even at 40 degrees it is not achieving the desired steering - best change it out.
On my boards - being even smaller than yours - I run a Bi-Fin with each fin being 30 mm wide at the top narrowing down to 15 mm at the end - with an overall length of 60 mm - plenty of surface area.
You should 'try' a Bi-Fin on your set up.....I reckon you will be very pleased with its performance......
Bro'
Some more thoughts:
I reckon you may well be 'over powered'
2200kv with a 5s set up is some serious 'explosive' RPM - At full charge = 21 v's x 2200 kv = 46200 rpm (unloaded) - Even when you are down to 3.7 v's you will still have a very high RPM of over 40 000 RPM ( 18.5 v's X 2200) ....not recommended..........35 000 rpm is a recommended resultant for most battery.motor combo choices.
A 1850 kv motor would perhaps have been a better choice - (21V) 38 850 rpm - (18.5v) 34 225 rpm range.....
Have you set your ESC's motor timing down to 'zero degrees' ? - that will produce - smoothest acceleration - the lowest RPM - highest torque - coolest motor - longest run time.
At 8.5 pounds you could run a smaller prop diameter - 32 mm -still have big speed - it would reduce the 'explosive acceleration - reduce the torque roll and prop paddle effect - run a deeper tail - smooth out the overall power drive feel.
Fast servo's are great - perhaps you could reduce you 'Steering Dual Rate' to reduce the sensitivity......set the board up to carve the turn rather than 'snap' in the turn.....I prefer a under steer feel to an over steer feel....
The general max. angle of attack rule with most all foils ( wings - rudders - etc) is that after more than 40 degrees of deviation, the foil will simply stall - i.e. losses its directional control and effect - major cause of spin out - if the rudder is to small or ineffective by design - that even at 40 degrees it is not achieving the desired steering - best change it out.
On my boards - being even smaller than yours - I run a Bi-Fin with each fin being 30 mm wide at the top narrowing down to 15 mm at the end - with an overall length of 60 mm - plenty of surface area.
You should 'try' a Bi-Fin on your set up.....I reckon you will be very pleased with its performance......
Bro'
06-14-2013, 01:58 PM
#6909
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RE: RC Surfer
You guys are great.......
Looks like my "Tool-Time.... Tim Allen" More Power mantra has bitten me in the Ass.
Thinking of ordering another motor: Same motor, just a different KV rating....
How about offering your suggestions...... 21volts x 1700 = 35,700rpm?
I'm thinking the 1900kv because I very rarely pull full throttle.
Looks like my "Tool-Time.... Tim Allen" More Power mantra has bitten me in the Ass.
Thinking of ordering another motor: Same motor, just a different KV rating....
How about offering your suggestions...... 21volts x 1700 = 35,700rpm?
I'm thinking the 1900kv because I very rarely pull full throttle.
We offer this 3674 in 6 versions.
1400kv/rpm per volt 2.5y
1700kv/rpm per volt 2Y
1900kv/rpm per volt 3.5D
2200kv/rpm per volt 3D
2650kv/rpm per volt 2.5D
3270kv/rpm per volt 2D
06-14-2013, 10:08 PM
#6910
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RE: RC Surfer
Howzit Indatube...
I reckon the 1900 kv would be a good choice....it will give you more throttle range..and...definitely be a smoother set up to surf.
The D or Y motor choice is still a partially grey area to me - and - it seems for many others as well....I have read many many discussions.....?....their is so much to consider in the whole of each individual set up.
The D wind is said to - sap more Amps than the Y - have lower torque - produce higher RPM HOWEVER - the 'reason' I chose a D wind is that the Prop is FREE running when you are off the throttle. With a Y motor the prop will have rotational resistance when off the throttle which IMO would not be good for board handling.....the prop drag will slow the board and pitch the nose.....etc.
A quick way to determine whether a motor is a D wind - disconnect the motor leads from the ESC - rotate the motor shaft a few times to get a feel of the resistance -then hold all three motor plug ends together - if you feel a resistance force while you rotate the motor shaft - it is a D.
Bro'
I reckon the 1900 kv would be a good choice....it will give you more throttle range..and...definitely be a smoother set up to surf.
The D or Y motor choice is still a partially grey area to me - and - it seems for many others as well....I have read many many discussions.....?....their is so much to consider in the whole of each individual set up.
The D wind is said to - sap more Amps than the Y - have lower torque - produce higher RPM HOWEVER - the 'reason' I chose a D wind is that the Prop is FREE running when you are off the throttle. With a Y motor the prop will have rotational resistance when off the throttle which IMO would not be good for board handling.....the prop drag will slow the board and pitch the nose.....etc.
A quick way to determine whether a motor is a D wind - disconnect the motor leads from the ESC - rotate the motor shaft a few times to get a feel of the resistance -then hold all three motor plug ends together - if you feel a resistance force while you rotate the motor shaft - it is a D.
Bro'
06-14-2013, 11:01 PM
#6911
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RE: RC Surfer
YPC,
Thanks for your discourse on the KV etc of these motors.
When I purchased the Leopard 3674 / 2200kv I was using 4S batteries and it worked great. Powerful, butcontrollable.
Then curls turned me on to 5S NanoTech batteries that would fit in my model......
That's when all hell broke out!!!
I really like the 5S batteries...... fantastic runtimes etc. So.....
I'm going to order a 1900kv Leopard 3674 on Monday.
In the meantime, I have adjusted the throttle curve on my MT4 transmitter to tone down power application and limit the max power.
I also have gone back to my smaller prop and set my fin angle to max 30 degrees. (was at 35 degrees).
I will post how the changes effect the performance.
When I build my next Maui RC Surfer (as soon as MJ gets settled here in San Clemente) I will re-fit the 2200kv motor so that InDaTube'snew owner can use 4S batteries.
Larry
Thanks for your discourse on the KV etc of these motors.
When I purchased the Leopard 3674 / 2200kv I was using 4S batteries and it worked great. Powerful, butcontrollable.
Then curls turned me on to 5S NanoTech batteries that would fit in my model......
That's when all hell broke out!!!
I really like the 5S batteries...... fantastic runtimes etc. So.....
I'm going to order a 1900kv Leopard 3674 on Monday.
In the meantime, I have adjusted the throttle curve on my MT4 transmitter to tone down power application and limit the max power.
I also have gone back to my smaller prop and set my fin angle to max 30 degrees. (was at 35 degrees).
I will post how the changes effect the performance.
When I build my next Maui RC Surfer (as soon as MJ gets settled here in San Clemente) I will re-fit the 2200kv motor so that InDaTube'snew owner can use 4S batteries.
Larry
06-14-2013, 11:11 PM
#6912
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RE: RC Surfer
H20,
Thanks for doing the math!!!!
I have only pulled the trigger full a couple of times...... holly s%#t ... it exploded the Carbon Fibre Prop I was testing!!!
I'm toning down my setup with a 1900kv motor to be more in line with the 35,000rpm suggested top end.
Thanks again.....
Larry (InDaTube)
Thanks for doing the math!!!!
I have only pulled the trigger full a couple of times...... holly s%#t ... it exploded the Carbon Fibre Prop I was testing!!!
I'm toning down my setup with a 1900kv motor to be more in line with the 35,000rpm suggested top end.
Thanks again.....
Larry (InDaTube)
06-15-2013, 08:03 AM
#6914
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RE: RC Surfer
Hi MJ,
I was down at the SC Pier this morning........ What a great surprise!!!! Your wife came up to me and introduced herself. She is great!!!!
I'm looking forward to having you here in SC
Larry
I was down at the SC Pier this morning........ What a great surprise!!!! Your wife came up to me and introduced herself. She is great!!!!
I'm looking forward to having you here in SC
Larry
06-15-2013, 08:10 AM
#6915
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RE: RC Surfer
Hi Guys,
I had a great session this morning testing some new settings.
The new throttle curve programmed into my radio works perfectly. Tamed the Tiger so to speak.
The fin at 30 degrees appears to be ideal as well.
I'm a happy camper....... InDaTube is ripp'in again.
Thanks to you guys for pointing me in the right direction!!!!
As a bonus, MJ's wife walked up the beach and introduced herself. She is fantistic!!
Larry
I had a great session this morning testing some new settings.
The new throttle curve programmed into my radio works perfectly. Tamed the Tiger so to speak.
The fin at 30 degrees appears to be ideal as well.
I'm a happy camper....... InDaTube is ripp'in again.
Thanks to you guys for pointing me in the right direction!!!!
As a bonus, MJ's wife walked up the beach and introduced herself. She is fantistic!!
Larry
06-15-2013, 10:39 AM
#6916
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RE: RC Surfer
Indatube
Good to see you get your nuclear power plant (5cell) under control,unlike San Onofre Nuclear power plant!
I am sure the whole MJ crew will be out ripping together soon. WATCH OUT SAN CLEMENTE....MAUI BOY ON THE WAY!!!
K-H20
Great info on glassing and motor/prop combo!!
I have a question...What would be the down side of UV sanding resin only? I use one layer of 4 oz on the board....the only laminating I do is the lid and high stress patches (6 oz)
I have heard adding catylist to the UV resin makes it stronger...I can't tell the difference other than it goes off on cloudy days. Thanks Karl
RC RESINATOR
Good to see you get your nuclear power plant (5cell) under control,unlike San Onofre Nuclear power plant!
I am sure the whole MJ crew will be out ripping together soon. WATCH OUT SAN CLEMENTE....MAUI BOY ON THE WAY!!!
K-H20
Great info on glassing and motor/prop combo!!
I have a question...What would be the down side of UV sanding resin only? I use one layer of 4 oz on the board....the only laminating I do is the lid and high stress patches (6 oz)
I have heard adding catylist to the UV resin makes it stronger...I can't tell the difference other than it goes off on cloudy days. Thanks Karl
RC RESINATOR
06-15-2013, 01:29 PM
#6917
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RE: RC Surfer
InDaTube- I would personally go with the Y winding. I like the breaking power when I let off the gas, my understanding is that the Y wind has better torque out of the hole but theD is better at full throttle. Again who knows for sure and they both work. I am a big fan of low end torque ratherthan high end torque for these boards. For argument sake Isay get the 1400 kv.
1400x 20v = 28,000 rpm x 2" = 52.8 mph ( 63,360" in a mile)
Resinator- You can add catilist to UV resin. I am not sure what the end product will be. It will cure fast !!!All the guys around hereI knowuse Catilist for board laminating and Hotcoating. Then if they need some filler/ small patch or captheywill use UV. UV is unreal cure time youcan sand in 30min. easy,versus 5hrs. with catilist.I have heard frommy glasser that UV is more brittle or in some way not as strong, andproduction shops use it to pump out the product faster. This isONLYwhatI have heard and haveno real evidenceto support it as true!!!. I will ask my glasser again next week andreport what he says.
I usually go 2 layers of 4oztop and bottom.and I use "S" glass a bunch too with epoxy resin.I am using Styro blanks that are stringerless and lighter. Youshould see how your weight to strength ration is going for you and adjust accordingly.
Cave- Keep up the funny!!!!
1400x 20v = 28,000 rpm x 2" = 52.8 mph ( 63,360" in a mile)
Resinator- You can add catilist to UV resin. I am not sure what the end product will be. It will cure fast !!!All the guys around hereI knowuse Catilist for board laminating and Hotcoating. Then if they need some filler/ small patch or captheywill use UV. UV is unreal cure time youcan sand in 30min. easy,versus 5hrs. with catilist.I have heard frommy glasser that UV is more brittle or in some way not as strong, andproduction shops use it to pump out the product faster. This isONLYwhatI have heard and haveno real evidenceto support it as true!!!. I will ask my glasser again next week andreport what he says.
I usually go 2 layers of 4oztop and bottom.and I use "S" glass a bunch too with epoxy resin.I am using Styro blanks that are stringerless and lighter. Youshould see how your weight to strength ration is going for you and adjust accordingly.
Cave- Keep up the funny!!!!
06-15-2013, 06:09 PM
#6918
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RE: RC Surfer
indatube
dam ,,, she said she was just going for a pack of cigarettes lol
all kidding aside, she said you were ripping it up out there ,,and i had better
practice to keep up with the California bozys
maui john
dam ,,, she said she was just going for a pack of cigarettes lol
all kidding aside, she said you were ripping it up out there ,,and i had better
practice to keep up with the California bozys
maui john
06-15-2013, 08:02 PM
#6919
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RE: RC Surfer
John,
She is great..... it will be wonderful to have you guys here in SC.
I'm really looking to surfing and building boards with you....
Larry
She is great..... it will be wonderful to have you guys here in SC.
I'm really looking to surfing and building boards with you....
Larry
06-17-2013, 12:20 AM
#6920
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RE: RC Surfer
Hi fiberglassing enthusiasts.... enjoying the talkies.... motor kv props and volts too.
When i bought the UV resin i'm using also got some styrene/wax additive to make the finish/hot coat.... they said to add max 5% to the resin.
(I also saw some general purpose resin in the hardware store..... said it had 33% styrene in it and if not recoating within 24hrs would needed to be sanded before next coat.)
I have put some 5% styrene/wax uv resin on the bottom of the board but it still dried a little tacky although sanded better than the std resin
any thoughts on how much can/should be added before probs?
any thoughts welcome .... regards cave dweller
When i bought the UV resin i'm using also got some styrene/wax additive to make the finish/hot coat.... they said to add max 5% to the resin.
(I also saw some general purpose resin in the hardware store..... said it had 33% styrene in it and if not recoating within 24hrs would needed to be sanded before next coat.)
I have put some 5% styrene/wax uv resin on the bottom of the board but it still dried a little tacky although sanded better than the std resin
any thoughts on how much can/should be added before probs?
any thoughts welcome .... regards cave dweller
06-17-2013, 07:38 AM
#6921
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RE: RC Surfer
Bro's Monday Surf session "Youth Day".......this government just Loves 'public holidays'.......
Had a fun session this morning.....cut short by a time restraint and the plastic prop blade tearing at the hub. Used a 'borrowed' very basic Olympus hand held camera X10 zoom to capture the footage as ours is still being repaired.....Kept some of the fun 'chaos' in the vid.. of Lisa-Marie battling to keep Bro in the frame.....always difficult when surfing a beach break peaking everywhere... at a fare distance out.
The conditions were typical beach break peaks.. reforming and popping up everywhere.......good fun finding the pockets and making something of it...
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ni8BD3IYvA[/youtube]
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11...10/key_/tm.htm
Had a fun session this morning.....cut short by a time restraint and the plastic prop blade tearing at the hub. Used a 'borrowed' very basic Olympus hand held camera X10 zoom to capture the footage as ours is still being repaired.....Kept some of the fun 'chaos' in the vid.. of Lisa-Marie battling to keep Bro in the frame.....always difficult when surfing a beach break peaking everywhere... at a fare distance out.
The conditions were typical beach break peaks.. reforming and popping up everywhere.......good fun finding the pockets and making something of it...
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ni8BD3IYvA[/youtube]
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11...10/key_/tm.htm
06-18-2013, 12:00 PM
#6922
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RE: RC Surfer
Cave- Not sure why your UV hotcoat came out soft. In general Styrene is the main solvent in polyester resin. You can thin it to what ever consistancy you want withstyrene but you will weaken it by doing so. The trick with adding wax is the wax rises to the surface and creates an air seal. That seal is what makes the resin sandable. If you layup lam resin on a glass sheet, then pull it off the side up will be gummy and the side that didn'tcure inair against the glass will be hardandsandable. Wax melts in styrene so making a wax solution in itis thebest way to add wax to the resin. Normally Idon't think there is a time period that you need to follow on recoating lam resin, longer is just harder to keep your paw prints off!!
One interesting thing I can't expain is polyester resin willnot go off in a vacume. Happy building,
Aloha, KH
One interesting thing I can't expain is polyester resin willnot go off in a vacume. Happy building,
Aloha, KH
06-19-2013, 02:44 AM
#6923
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RE: RC Surfer
Howzit Karl....
Spoke to a mate of mine this morning who builds specialized full scaleyaughts and vacuums most everything. He reckons it could be that the vacuum pressure is 'to high' that will effect the styrene ( cause it to boil)....he reckons you should vacuum polyester at around 40% gauge pressure.......hope this helps.
Bro'
Spoke to a mate of mine this morning who builds specialized full scaleyaughts and vacuums most everything. He reckons it could be that the vacuum pressure is 'to high' that will effect the styrene ( cause it to boil)....he reckons you should vacuum polyester at around 40% gauge pressure.......hope this helps.
Bro'
06-19-2013, 10:37 AM
#6924
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RE: RC Surfer
YPC- I stand corrected !! I was always told back in the day vacuume bagging arrived on the scene that you couldn'tbag polyester, so that is whatI always thought. Itcould have been thatit would melt the bags we had, sowe couldn't use it. I am not sure. Good to know. Thanks for the update !!!
Cave- I think that all or almost all of the wax rises to the top on a hot coat and doesn't stay in the resin so the amount of wax added is not critical to the resin structure. Add more and you will just havemore tosand off later. Add to little andit mightend up gummy.
Aloha, KH
Cave- I think that all or almost all of the wax rises to the top on a hot coat and doesn't stay in the resin so the amount of wax added is not critical to the resin structure. Add more and you will just havemore tosand off later. Add to little andit mightend up gummy.
Aloha, KH
06-20-2013, 11:48 PM
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RE: RC Surfer
K-H2o
Thanks heaps for your knowledge its all starting to make more sense now.. i ask everyone i know involved with it but its hard to get a factual answer as to why the resins and additives do there thing.
sorry for all the questions but never doin any proper fiberglassin before its been a bit of a challenge.. with plenty of sanding in-between..
and yeh once i get through the wax on the coats its in it does sand much better without the gummy trip.
Heaps more to learn as i'm going... guess that happens when you jump in the deep end of the pool only knowing how to dog paddle... or should that be bear paddle... lol.
Unfortunately there will prob be more questions when i start gluing in studs and drivelines (epoxy resin or polyester resin or whatever sticks/blends best with the polyester) but first things first gotta get the hull finished to fitting up stage
Now if i can get the vision of you typeing this excellent info wearing your fresh air hoody out of my head all will be better.... lol
cave
Thanks heaps for your knowledge its all starting to make more sense now.. i ask everyone i know involved with it but its hard to get a factual answer as to why the resins and additives do there thing.
sorry for all the questions but never doin any proper fiberglassin before its been a bit of a challenge.. with plenty of sanding in-between..
and yeh once i get through the wax on the coats its in it does sand much better without the gummy trip.
Heaps more to learn as i'm going... guess that happens when you jump in the deep end of the pool only knowing how to dog paddle... or should that be bear paddle... lol.
Unfortunately there will prob be more questions when i start gluing in studs and drivelines (epoxy resin or polyester resin or whatever sticks/blends best with the polyester) but first things first gotta get the hull finished to fitting up stage
Now if i can get the vision of you typeing this excellent info wearing your fresh air hoody out of my head all will be better.... lol
cave
