Darkseacret

Do most people use stock water inlets on a NQD or should I drill out and epoxy some brass tubing inlets/outlets instead? Now that Im getting serious on this build I get all OCD about it loosing sleep thinking about stupid things like brass tubing and foot straps lol.

bearcave

Darkest of secrets about nqd fixin up is within the many pages of this site... it may take several weeks to view it all as you have to read all the pages.

Oz site '******************' and kite's site 'rc surf world' have some of the relevent stuff easier to find but will still be time consuming.

Most of the custom guys (or totally addicted like you are now lol) all started with an nqd/kyo/boardsharks and comments like hugh made about stickin the lead down good (roughing up the abs plastic befor glueing gives a much better bond too, and keep ya ballast low) are true cause they have been there.

Anyway.... have only seen a few picks of a split open nqd, cool. On my one just sealed the join externally and it selfrights ok with whatever stock weight ballast is in there. I found it goes way better with more ballast futhar fwd, would suggest getting all your stuff together within the board for a 'how it will be' mock up and aim for a balance point half way along the length (stock balance is furthar back) to work out where to glue your custom lead.

Cooling wise most of the custom guys are running one inlet into esc then motor then out... from what i see all is good.
My aproach was dual inlet and suction outlet. On one hand best case scenario cooling wether its neccesary or not. On another hand if a blockage occurs i may only overheat the esc OR motor, not both.

End of day thinkin if no blockage occurs all should be good...
I've used a mini thermometer on many things to check temps (was way helpful tuning/ keeping a nitro burning engine happening) but as a basic thing i've noticed on anything electrical, after a run and the motor or esc is too hot to touch you have unmatched motor/esc/prop load electrical issues or cooling problems.

not knowin much just sayin deffinately change the plastic pickup/exhaust out to glued in brass tube, going for a smooth as can be flow in and out.

hopefully others will suggest other things as well but if not check out the other sites for more info..

YPC

Howzit Darkseacret !......most guys will say 'two is better than one".......only joking..

Some say that when surfing in the warmer waters two intakes are better for overall cooling...I have found in SA - water temps average around 15 degrees i the single inlet / outlet has worked well (4 mm OD brass tubes)

Remember to always lead the cooling pipe to the ESC first - then to the motor - the esc needs more cooling than the motor..

below is a link to a previous post I posted when installing th etubes in one of my recent boards..

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-b...l#post11740263

YPC

In the build I establish the boards CG at 40% of the length of the board from the tail..in a ready to surf state...that is whenI I then add any further required dead weight - (after the final build is complete), to establish the ideal running weight -found that 2400 grams (5.3lbs) Ready to Surf for my boards using 3s-4s - seems to work well for its bouyancy factor and in most all surf conditions.

I use lead shot gun pellets, bedded in epoxy - usually between 100 - 150 grams - moulds well into spaces - best to be placed at the lowest possible CG.

bearcave

while your nqd is split one more thought from the cave.
screw stainless steel bolts up the 4 stock nuts that hold the deck down.

I hear the kyo hollow hulls have stainless nuts? but nqd's have rusty steel nuts.
many have done the staino bolt thing (like glue them into the rusty nut) and then use some kind of wingnut holdown for the deck instead of the std screws.
Of course if you can get them rusty nuts out and replace with stainless ones even better but thinkin they may be hard to dislodge without breaking plastic....?

I wanted to do this but hessitant to drill through the bottom of hull just keep sticking grease down the nut cavitys.. but if i ever split one i would be thinkin about it.

while your at it might as well drill out the rudder hole and stick something brass or stainless in there too.

enjoy your addiction darkseacret....

Darkseacret

Thanks Bear . Awesome tip with ss bolts up through base. Thank you .

ronkytonk

What's up boy's'
I have a box o Hobbyking parts and a BoardShark looking for some lovin, I finally started at it since the snow is melting in my neck of the woods.
I stripped the Shark down to nothing and started with the coooooling system.
I found some sand from the westside of Oahu and filled a brass tube with it and started bending..


After an hour with a Dremel on the tubing and hull I started putting some parts into place (I will epoxy when I am done fitting all the parts).


I hooked up the esc, receiver, and motor to get everything working...

Have a listen and tell me if it sounds ok, reminding nothing is epoxied yet.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1c8f5ZV3XA
I am now onto figuring out the most important thing (to me), hooking the dudeshark to a low pro servo!!.
DUDE NEEDS TO HAVE MOVEMENT!!

bearcave

Hey ronkytonk looks/sounds like a strait driveline from here.
I couldn't find any hawaiin sand so used generic worldwide salt to pack my tubes.. lol couldn't help myself on that one... anyway i went for the low rider reduced obtrusion minimul drag inlet/outlets.. they seem to work ok, here is a pic

Regarding the leaning guy, reckon a pm to K-H2o way to go.

Darkseacrets... beefing up the engine mounting screw point while you have a split nqd might be a good idea too.
Bad Billy made some awesome engine mounts a while back too... not sure if you can still get em but worth a look.

YPC

Been surfing On-Shore conditions the entire week - really enjoy finding those little pockets and moments in the midst of all the lumps and bumps' My daughter Jessie got behind the camera - filming On-Shore Beach Break is difficult - all over the show - the young lady did well !

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0f-DBhBDdtw

YPC

Here is a great article to read - relating to modern day surfing - and the evolution of surfing ...

Article link:
http://mauinow.com/2012/10/18/power-sur ... n-surfing/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=ROVHVQ6yrWU

YPC

Further Bi-Fin Development - adding more features !

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-b...l#post11760121

Darkseacret

Ordered the FS Gt 2 2.4 radio.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FS-GT2-2CH-2...ht_2762wt_1096

YPC

A video to demonstrate the various Bi-Fin Toe' dynamic effects....having the ability to simply/effectively change the boards angle of attack and ride attitude, makes for an even finer tuned set-up - which makes for better surfing overall !

http://youtu.be/ZJeyAwYcCi4

ronkytonk

Hey Guy's,
Any Ideas on how I could get a better range of movement with the servo?,
I know it's taped, I just don't want to make anything permanent.
Thx

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GBT_j4TQ0M

YPC

Ronky !...just shorten the length of the leverage ( the long lever that seems to be attached to the surfers movement components)

YPC

Quick ! late afternoon session !........not bad for a Tuesday !...enjoy working the little spots on the wave to pull the odd nice move...when it happens it's rewarding..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmoc93oIzBs

bearcave

Ronkytonk. levers and angles wise bro says true.

For example, if you reversed your servos direction, had your actuating rod mounted to the opposite side of the servo horn, then ran straight back to the guys actuating arm and attaching half way along, you would double the guys movement.
Down side is that twice the tourqe (and power) would be required to move him and handle the load.

Seeing your setup i'm now thinkin the arm has to be short for sufficient movement, and maybe why the servo's for the guy have to be mega tourqe mega strong compared to steering servo's.... ?

Cool setup ronkytonk never thought of doing it that way with servo up front, one day i hope to get my one happening way interested in your quest!

ronkytonk

Alright here is a pic of the bottom of the Dude lever..



I just drilled a hole lower down on the lever and hooked it up. I can tell the servo is working a little harder but Dude has more movement. I believe if I fool around a bit more I could get it even more movement, also once I drop the servo into the boardshark lid permanently it won't move as much because it is just tapped into place now.

Here is a vid of it after the slight adjustment..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFd37DOh8-Q I almost think I may have enough sauce on the dude movement for now, and now I may move onto the rudder/servo..

As you can see I still have a little snow on the ground, so I still have some time until the lake is ready to be surfed!!lol

YPC

Got a taste of Winter to-day - looking very promising !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KgY3GRxIpw Looks like I am in for a nice weekend !

(Wednesday 19 March 2014)
WEDNESDAY hubba! A gnarly taste of winter this way comes as 20 SECOND swells pulse to 25 feet (or bigger) on deep-water reefs. Day starts cloudy rainy light NW and already 6'. All day, the grunt grows and grows and grows. Make the circle bigger! Muizies fills with cooking 4'+ lines, 3' at first. Winds moderate NW going SW to W.THURSDAY still 20ft throbbing in light SE going S. Muizies 3-5' and fun at dawn. FRIDAY 4-6' leftovers drop all day to 3-4' in clean SE. Muizies bumpy dropping 2-3'. What a run! SATURDAY hey hey hey, another bit of winter with moderate NW going fresh and 3-4' seas. Muizies offshore 2' fun. SUNDAY lekker Muizies day, with 2-3' lines in light NW offshore. Other side could be fun too, with bit more juice and 4' sets or more open coast. Light winds.
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