Favorite Tool
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Favorite Tool
I thought it might be interesting to see what peoples favorite boat building tool is. This covers hand tools, power tools, clamps, anything. So tell us what it is and why.
My favorite tool is not really a tool in the way most people would think. I find that Lego is the most expandable tool out there. You can use it as spacers in clamps, build varying height holds and spacers, and can be used to build temporary mounts so you can build the final part with the motor in final position. I use it for all kinds of things I believe it is even structural in one of the boats I have built. I also love to play with it.
My favorite tool is not really a tool in the way most people would think. I find that Lego is the most expandable tool out there. You can use it as spacers in clamps, build varying height holds and spacers, and can be used to build temporary mounts so you can build the final part with the motor in final position. I use it for all kinds of things I believe it is even structural in one of the boats I have built. I also love to play with it.
#3
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RE: Favorite Tool
If I had LEGO in the workshop I am sure I would end up distracted by it. Wish I had a $ for every lego boat I made over the years (as a kid of course) - Sad that none of them would perform as well as a kids imagination would want them to.
My favorite tools - a tight quarters drill - not much bigger than a dentists drill but great for drilling in spots you cant get your fingers into.
Also a little micro jigsaw (actually the whole tool kit) that is perfect for working on models. The little saw will easly fit between engine rails to cut them down or carve them. Cuts fiberglass like butter but is maneuverable like a very fine jigsaw.
[link=http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Shop_Tools-All-Craftsman_50_pc__Mini_Tool_Set_61312] little mor einfo on the kit that Craftsman no longer offer[/link] []
My favorite tools - a tight quarters drill - not much bigger than a dentists drill but great for drilling in spots you cant get your fingers into.
Also a little micro jigsaw (actually the whole tool kit) that is perfect for working on models. The little saw will easly fit between engine rails to cut them down or carve them. Cuts fiberglass like butter but is maneuverable like a very fine jigsaw.
[link=http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Shop_Tools-All-Craftsman_50_pc__Mini_Tool_Set_61312] little mor einfo on the kit that Craftsman no longer offer[/link] []
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RE: Favorite Tool
I seem to be using a lot of sheet plastic lately. Score the stuff, snap along the score, and end up with a length of plastic that's probably almost the right size, that sort of thingy. I want an infinitely adjustable, 'automatically' re-sizing, very light weight and storable metal-break that will work on almost everything. Oh, and very inexpensive! Anyone know where I can find one? And a winning lottery ticket while I'm 'wishing'? [Find me that winning lottery ticket and I'll worry about the metal-break'!
Hate to say it, but my most used tool is a foot long metal ruler. Call it a 'straight-edge', probably closer to what it's used for...
- 'Doc
Oh! And a new list of 'excuses'!
Hate to say it, but my most used tool is a foot long metal ruler. Call it a 'straight-edge', probably closer to what it's used for...
- 'Doc
Oh! And a new list of 'excuses'!
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RE: Favorite Tool
3m 5200 marine sealent !!!! Works great on anything you want to stay put . This stuff will hold a strut on the back of a boat with no screws in it while the boats running !!!! ( I tested it one time ) Down fall ........its a dog to get something loose thats held down by it !!!!
#9
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RE: Favorite Tool
My favorite tool is simply any form of abrasives. Without it, building my boats would be impossible and I enjoy the skill it takes to make things perfectly the way they should be, or as close as I can get.
For framing, I use KISS file boards. They are finger nail files found at the drug store. Instead of folding sandpaper to knock the edges and splinters off, a quick rub with one of these and it's taken care of. Excellent control on developing a consistent chamfer. Great for fitting inside the slotted joints also and beveling all the way up to the inside on corners. Perfect for shaping ply formers. Many grades from 80 grit all the way down to ones you can polish out plastic with. You can also use them wet with a little bit of dish soap and block sand metal very nicely, such as rudders without the worry of rounding edges with floppy sandpaper. Great for working down paint lips or drips on epoxy paints, and last a good long time if your not too aggressive and use soapy water whenever possible to keep the loosened grit from destroying the good ones still on the board.
Second favorite would be stone polishing sticks. These are used primarily in working metals. They range in grit same as sandpaper and are actually man-made sharpening stones, but with a weaker binding agent, or could be called "self-sharpening". They wear into the shape you are polishing. Invaluable in working props or simply taking care of any kind of metal burrs left from the manufacture. Tips can be shaped by rubbing down on a flat piece of sandpaper, and oil is used to keep them from cloging. Can also be used as a sanding board for long chamfers and tight corners. They can be considered long-wearing so they can be trusted in staying flat for making surfaces true if cared for. These pick up where steel files leave off.
Third would be scotchbrite pads or polishing creams to form an even finish on metal. Great for after fine sanding or stone work to hide the strokes. All kinds can be found, from billet polish to copper creams. Each will leave its own finish. Copper cream and a scotch bright pad will leave a nice satin sheen, but if used with a soft brush will leave a flat dull look. Fun to experiment with for a final finish.
Abrasives are commonly overlooked as tools, but is always the most common companion in my workshop and as simple as they seem, there can be some time spent learning all its aspects and applications. They are used for each basic mediums that go into my boats, wood and metal.
For framing, I use KISS file boards. They are finger nail files found at the drug store. Instead of folding sandpaper to knock the edges and splinters off, a quick rub with one of these and it's taken care of. Excellent control on developing a consistent chamfer. Great for fitting inside the slotted joints also and beveling all the way up to the inside on corners. Perfect for shaping ply formers. Many grades from 80 grit all the way down to ones you can polish out plastic with. You can also use them wet with a little bit of dish soap and block sand metal very nicely, such as rudders without the worry of rounding edges with floppy sandpaper. Great for working down paint lips or drips on epoxy paints, and last a good long time if your not too aggressive and use soapy water whenever possible to keep the loosened grit from destroying the good ones still on the board.
Second favorite would be stone polishing sticks. These are used primarily in working metals. They range in grit same as sandpaper and are actually man-made sharpening stones, but with a weaker binding agent, or could be called "self-sharpening". They wear into the shape you are polishing. Invaluable in working props or simply taking care of any kind of metal burrs left from the manufacture. Tips can be shaped by rubbing down on a flat piece of sandpaper, and oil is used to keep them from cloging. Can also be used as a sanding board for long chamfers and tight corners. They can be considered long-wearing so they can be trusted in staying flat for making surfaces true if cared for. These pick up where steel files leave off.
Third would be scotchbrite pads or polishing creams to form an even finish on metal. Great for after fine sanding or stone work to hide the strokes. All kinds can be found, from billet polish to copper creams. Each will leave its own finish. Copper cream and a scotch bright pad will leave a nice satin sheen, but if used with a soft brush will leave a flat dull look. Fun to experiment with for a final finish.
Abrasives are commonly overlooked as tools, but is always the most common companion in my workshop and as simple as they seem, there can be some time spent learning all its aspects and applications. They are used for each basic mediums that go into my boats, wood and metal.
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RE: Favorite Tool
After considerable thought, I've determined that my most used/favorite 'tool' is located on my right hand, the 'pinky'. It's equipped with a slightly longer nail than any of the others and will 'reach' places none of the others will. It's used to satisfy 'urges' such as scratching, testing the hardness of, and what things might be made from (tapping), and for auguring out thingys from places I don't want them. It is part of the original equipment supplied by the manufacturer/designer. Very versatile! Very cheap till you try replacing it.
- 'Doc
- 'Doc
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RE: Favorite Tool
The best tool is not in the tool box or on the bench. It is your brain.
Nice little mill there TopFuel. Have they got a CNC version of that bench top mill? I have not seen that company (or can find "otimum"-) , and I am in the market. Do you have a link to their site?
Thank you.
Nice little mill there TopFuel. Have they got a CNC version of that bench top mill? I have not seen that company (or can find "otimum"-) , and I am in the market. Do you have a link to their site?
Thank you.
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RE: Favorite Tool
ORIGINAL: Earth Surfer
I have not seen that company (or can find "otimum"-) , and I am in the market.
Thank you.
I have not seen that company (or can find "otimum"-) , and I am in the market.
Thank you.
MORE SPEED
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RE: Favorite Tool
ORIGINAL: Earth Surfer
The best tool is not in the tool box or on the bench. It is your brain.
Nice little mill there TopFuel. Have they got a CNC version of that bench top mill? I have not seen that company (or can find "otimum"-) , and I am in the market. Do you have a link to their site?
Thank you.
The best tool is not in the tool box or on the bench. It is your brain.
Nice little mill there TopFuel. Have they got a CNC version of that bench top mill? I have not seen that company (or can find "otimum"-) , and I am in the market. Do you have a link to their site?
Thank you.
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RE: Favorite Tool
Earth Surfer, yeah its "optimum", they are made in Germany. Very nice quality stuff, not cheap, but typical German precision. I have the matching lathe also. They do make a CNC kit for both the mill and lathe, it runs about 1700.00 euros ($2,250.00 Dollars) for the complete CNC kit, inlcuding stepper motors, controllers and hardware, no software, but thats easy enough to get. I may go CNC, but may not. I do like the manual portion for quick jobs.
The DRO did not come with it, I added it afterwards.
Here is the english site.
http://www.optimum-machines.com/
~James
The DRO did not come with it, I added it afterwards.
Here is the english site.
http://www.optimum-machines.com/
~James