lownslo

I received my running lights and mast light a couple days ago. WOW! I have never seen wire this thin! [X(] Fortunately it helped me to "bury" the wire leads within the mast. I used a Dremmel with a cut-off wheel, and cut a grove down the back of the mast. I attached the mast light on top of the mast with some silicone sealer/glue, laid in the wires, and then inserted a slim strip of balsa in the slot, covering the wires. I sanded it down, stained and sealed it, and here it is ready to attach to the main cabin roof. Ahhhh yesssss. That large cabin roof was looking good. Then I did one thing to make it look just a little better.......... and Ohhhhh Myyyyy!![] I stirred up a hornets nest by applying a top coat over the white paint. I tried it first on a test piece and it was fine. I am going to have to assume that I did not wait long enough for proper drying of the white. The test piece had sat around for days before I tried the clear. I am still working on it trying to cover up my mistakes. Litterly and figurately!
lownslo ..... Bob in Indy

lownslo

I have a 3 volt battery holder that will be switched from the transmitter for the running lights. I did not want to put more lights on the 2 AA's, so I went to my "pack-rat" stash. I save most all left overs, especially in RC wiring, plugs, battery packs with for tests, etc. Even though this 4.8 v pack is older, it charges and holds a charge just fine. I NEVER put an older pack like this in an airplane or a critical situation. For 2, 50mAh, 6 volt cabin lights this will work fine. The lights will not be bright, since it will be short on voltage by about 20%, but I do not want super bright lights in my cabins. See the photo for some notes.
I have added a photo of the battery in it's location in the main cabin. Please excuse the paint job inside the cabin. I am going to go over paint job later. I did not want much detail to show through the windows of the cabin so I selected a "next to gray" type of color. The HOLES in the doorway is a speaker grill for the Ram Air Horn sound. All of these items I am adding now will be removed as I am still putting off doing the hull. I just want to do as much as possible now while I have good access. I will do a lot of masking later to protect what is done now.
lownslo ..... Bob in Indy
PS I got my Sea Queen, running lights, and these lights with long leads from Harbor Models.
http://www.harbormodels.com/Harborma...3-lighting.htm
PS #2 The cross-tie beam between the sides was done to "draw in" the TOP of the sides so the window frames will fit better. Because of the curvature of the sides, the thinner top of the side was "bowed outwards".

lownslo

I must mention that "pompeled" (in a couple "help email"[8D]), had offered to help educate me on glassing/resin on the hull. I had done a search and had some basic ideas of what to do. He noticed I had a "sharp chinned hull", I think he called it, so he sent me five diagrams (steps), to glass the bottom. I must say I received great information from RCU members since 2000 when in airplanes, and now boats. I have to publicly thank "pompeled for going the extra mile to help out. "I have a lot more confidence about the glassing now than before.
lownslo ...... Bob in Indy

PS. I had the wrong username. I just edited message for correct person.[:-]

lownslo

Moving along......... The front cabin window fit was a PIA![>:] My boat is coming along pretty straight and true in parts fitting..... but these front windows dealt me a fit. The compound angles are what caused most of the fit problems. This kit is also a little different from earlier runs, (I think). The roof at those front windows now has an overhang. I like this "sun visor" look. The other problem was in the front deck roof fit. I may have created a problem causing these pieces to be short in length, and the incorrect angle cut at the front cabin windows. No matter my fault or the kit........ I bought some new ply and will cut my own pieces to fit.
WOW!! Two pieces of the replacement 1/32" ply shown in the photo were almost $10.00 with tax!!![X(]
lownslo .... Bob in Indy
PS. I NEVER throw away cardboard tablet backs. They are perfect for making patterns before cutting the wood. Here I have sized the roof halves to fit. Each half was a slightly different in width.

DONS BOAT WORKS

My Feedback: (3)

Look'n good. Most hobby windows are a PIA!

Don M.

lownslo

Heyyyyy Guys, (and Gals?), Since I am boat building now I have changed my avatar. This was my only other boat, (sold it), and it was a RTR Aquacraft Atlantic Tug. It was a nice boat ...... wish now I would have kept it, but I like the satisfaction of building from a box of wood. I still have 3 airplanes, all electric now, and one of these three is an ARF still in the box. It is a gentle, slow, flyer to match this old man's reflexes!! Thus my username lownslo!!

lownslo

Thanks Don,
No matter if my wife wants a room painted, painting birdhouses, airplanes or boats. ......... I HATE painting!![>:]
Although the front cabin windows were a tough fit ........... all the other windows fit real nice. They will have a clear mylar sandwiched between the "inside-window-inserts" and the outer window frame. The pieces painted a grayish purple are the inside part of the sandwich. This interior color is drab and dingy, but I am NOT going for any detail in the cabins. I needed a dull color as to not "show off" the interior when the interior lights are on.
NOTE about the kit's wood parts. Although I am spoiled on laser cut kits, this one is CNC machine cut. Surprisingly........ the window inserts, (as an example), fit with VERY little sanding except for a couple of "flashing type bumps". These are about 1 mm. on each piece to hold it in the slab of wood holding other parts.
lownslo ..... Bob in Indy

blizard05

HI, Bob Would you be intrrested in a cpl of slabs of teak like on my crackers?? If so send me your info. Larry

lownslo

Hi Larry,
Thanks ..... but I think I will go with the supplied wood. I DID have thoughts of using teak or mahagony in alternate planks, but chickened out.[]
Thanks again for the offer.
Bob
PS. I have not seen your crackers. Can you post a photo or a link if it is on the forums. ... thanks.

blizard05

My crackers are under (pictures), Ron posted them for me. Larry

lownslo

Things have been going slow lately. I did get the stringers installed and will begin sanding them to the correct angles for the hull sheets soon. Clamps are like "Pennies from Heaven". It never hurts to have a couple extra.
lownslo,
Bob ... In Indy.

lownslo

WOW!! There is a lot of sanding to do on the stringers to get the correct angles for the skins. [:-] I need a to have them contact as much of the keel and stringers as possible. If the angle is off ...... I may only have 1/2 the surface in glue contact. I am not looking forward to the "bow fit of the skins". Here I did my first sanding to check out what is needed at the bow area. I may alter the skin attachment (at the bow only), by adding more surface for the mating of the bottom and top skin. I spent a LOT of time on the prop.
You can access this posting to see some of the balancing problems. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8520004/tm.htm
After "drilling through" the rear of the prop, (and not damaging the threads at the front) [8D], I finally got on track in balancing. Boy ..... this prop was really a rough casting. This was my first experience with kit props, or boat props of any source.
lownslo,
Bob in Indy

grimgard

Amazing build! man thats a lot of wood! I have always wanted to build something like this but the kits are so expensive! How is the lighting comming along? post some night pictures when you get a chance.

toesupwa

Hi Bob
Its fairly easy to sand off the stringers to match the angle of the bulkheads, it just takes patience. I use a long sanding block and do one angle at a time. It soon comes out right.
Is the sheeting right to the bow or is there a block in the lower bow section?
Its also easier to wet the skins, clamp / hold it to the boat till it dries and takes on the shape of the hull before you try to stick it down.

lownslo

Well ....... I am usually pretty good at wood shaping but I sure was "humbled" on the stringers at the bow. I know I ended up sanding off more than needed to keep a smooth, flowing, line to the bow. The problem was me being careless ........ plus...... I did not like the fit of the first bulkhead angles when I started shaping and should have corrected or figured something out at that time. Yes, sanding the stringers was basic, using the bulkhead angles as a guide, and a long sanding block. NOTE the text in the photos. Also, I will wet and clamp the skins, let dry, and then glue in place. I did that with the stringers and it was a piece of cake.
We are getting there. I am a slow builder. Sometimes I work for hours ... then other days a few minutes or not at all.
lownslo,
Bob .... in Indy

pompebled

Aah, those lovely bow sections...

I had a similar issue with my 110cm ( 43,3" ) M.A.S. hull, where the skin would simply not follow the curve; I didn't want to 'cheat' and use a solid block so I did it my way.

As the pictures show, my build isn't nearly as massive as your Sea Queen, I want to build as light as possible as the stepped hull should run quite fast and nimble, once finished.

Regards, Jan.

lownslo

Hi Jan,
I can see the weight factor will probably slow my big boy down somewhat. Of course I would not want it to run like Miss Budwiser!! Are those balsa strips on the bow? I was affraid to use balsa certain places for the reason of moisture...... not being flooded, but just around water etc. (My rookie stripes are showing boldly with that statement).[:-] I am lost on what kind of boat yours is going to be. Your formers, (bulkheads), are really shaped for weight savings!! I really enjoy taking a block of balsa, a hobby razor plane, and sandpaper and "creating". Attached are a couple photos showing some work I have done. Sorry.......don't mean to get off on airplanes. Just wanted to show the art of shaping balsa for any project.
PS. My photos didn't attach in order. The blue and white plane is the before...... the Navy plane after a re-strip and bashing. OK .. back to boats!
lownslo,
Bob in Indy

pompebled

Hi Bob,

Lovely shaping work on the balsa nose, makes the plane looks much better!

My hull skin is 3,2 mm poplar ply, very light, only a bit heavier that the same size balsa, but a lot cheaper. glued on the formers with white PVA glue.
The nosejob are strips, sanded into shape and glued in position.

No need to be lost on the boat type, I added a picture; it's a WWII motor torpedo boat, used by the Italian navy way into the 60's.
Designed for the (often) smooth Mediteranian Sea it has two steps in the hull for greater speed out of the two petrol engines.
I'm going semi scale, by only using one bigger motor and one propshaft to benefit from the more efficiently working bigger prop, instead of two propshafts like the original.

I'm hoping to avoid moisture issues by soaking the inside with thinned epoxy (heated), the outside will be glassed like your SQ>

Regards, Jan.

lownslo

Well I am moving along at a snails pace but we still have cold weather ahead. In the attached photos I show some wood I added to the bow at the lower and upper breasthook. I had the lower breasthood at a perfect 90 degrees to bulkhead #1, but the bottom skin line did not look correct following the lower breasthook. I added the wood to not only give me a smoother, better looking line, but also to add more surface for glue adhesion. (Same at the top). Scroll up to my post #40 and you can see how narrow a surface is there.
I took the boat to the garage to sand the stringers and fit the 1st bottom skin. We had a fairly warm 2 days for March 1, so it was not too bad. The other photo shows the skin, glued and clamped. The last photo is a picture of my OLD drill press my dad got used in the late 40's. It has served me well since I have owned it the last 40 plus years. I free-hand sand with this sanding drum in the keyless chuck. As far as I know....... this is still the original motor on this drill press!!!![X(]
lownslo,
Bob .. in Indy

lownslo

I decided to get an approximate weight for this big boy. I loaded the in progress boat, with all the parts on the scale except a few items.
This weight came to 11.5 lbs. The 12v battery weighs 5 lbs. I also have a bunch of small parts not on the scale. (window frames, accessories, lights, receiver, AND the weight of the finishing resin and paint on the hull and deck.
I estimate this will all come out to about 17 to 17.25 lbs. RTR. (approx. 7.75 kg).
lownslo
Bob .... in Indy

pompebled

Hi Bob,

For that size boat and the way its constructed, that's not bad at all, she should run nicely that way.

Regards, Jan.

lownslo

Well things are coming together. I have the hull skins applied and about 90% shaped and sanded. Next step will be the application of finishing resin. I am bypassing the glassing of the hull. (As discussed earlier). I have 5 well maintained ponds/lakes in our subdivision and no debris. I also plan on using a wagon, with a custom platform and boat stand, to walk from lake to lake. (Exercise for this old goat).
Since this is not a true scale project, I made a couple changes. One is the rear deck access hatch I have installed. If there is a water pickup problem, or rudder problem, I could not see to use wrenches or other tools. The tools used would be inserted in the rear cabin area........... but with the hatch ........... at least I can see the nuts, screws, etc. The hatch will be held on, and water sealed, with a thin bead of clear silicone. I only plan on removeable of the cover for emergency access.
lownslo ...... Bob in Indy

rblubaugh

My Feedback: (5)

Your Sea Queen is really looking nice Bob. You are doing a beautiful job. [sm=thumbup.gif] [sm=regular_smile.gif]

Bob in Danville

lownslo

AWWWWW Shucks!! Thanks[8D]
lownslo....
Bob in Indy

lownslo

Well I am starting to see light at the end of the tunnel. I have the hull skins on and have sanded to about a 99% shape at the bow. Just a few high spots remain. The grain on the hulls plywood supplied, has a lot of "open grain". Even after sanding a lot, the grain has a lot of "valleys" that are too deep to effectively sand out. I got some "spot putty/Bondo", mixed in a tube, and spread it VERY thin just to fill the tiny valleys. Some places in the ply had "wiskers" that would not disappear with sanding. In the close up attachment you can see the tiny lines of Bondo following the grain. Some were sanding groves while being careless with the the corse paper at first, but MOST was grain that was filled in.
lownslo, .. Bob in Indy