lownslo

Hello,
I have built maybe 6 aircraft, but this is my first boat. I selected the 46" Sea Queen since it is a fairly large boat. The kit came packed well in an outter box so parts were all in good shape. The ply is CNC machined. This is my first kit using that technique. I am used to die cut, (thinner wood than most in this kit), OR laser cut. The wood cut by CNC is OK, but of course laser cutting would have been better. I like to dry fit as many parts as possible.... actually read directions, and just think out things before starting. I try to have most of my electrical and RC parts to plan my wireing routes. I like clean-looking wiring so I try to achive that in prep. In the photos the building surface used to lay keel and bulkheads is a 4' shelf board. These are about as flat as you can buy. I made 3 wood vices by screwing one block to the board and then 1/4"-20 bolts as the vice
"handles" to draw up the other "vice jaw" tight . You all may do something like this ...... don't know...... ?? I thought of this while studying parts, etc. I use a ruler to measure from the board to an area on the outer edges of bulkheads to make sure bulkhead is level in relationship to the keel. (Which is about as perpendicular to the board as this homemade outfit can be! Bulkheads and false rebates are now glued about as good as I could get them. I think they will be OK. The cabin sides had to have some of the slots enlarged slightly and both ends will need to be trimmed.
I am not sure if laser cutting would have helped. I probably have some bulkheads off slightly.
lownslo ........ (from my aircraft days)...... sloboat on some other forums.

lownslo

As I continue on....... I want to say thanks to "pompeled" on the boat forums. He has been VERY helpful on the forum to my questions and also via email and photos. That being said, the attachment of the ESC cooler is something I made per his instructions. He also guided me in planning a water pickup and exit*** AFTER he saw my creation. The first one I made would have made all you that know boats real good, laugh out loud! In an email he used the term "scale bucket", if that gives you an idea of my pickup! Note: In the photo taken from the stern, you will notice I have changed my electronics placements. The cabin door will have some black screen wire or cloth over the flat black area. There is to be a 2" speaker for air horn sounds in the cabin.
lownslo
PS. If in the view from the stern things look a little out of line...... these parts are only dry fitted here.
PS#2 I had the user name incorrect. It was pompeled who emailed me sketch of the ESC cooler.

rblubaugh

My Feedback: (5)

I hope you will continue with postings to this string so we may all watch your progress as you build your Sea Queen.

Bob

lownslo

Bob, (fellow Indiana Hoosier)
Yep! I do plan on keeping the thread going. I am a slow builder...... but I will keep this going when I do move along.
PS. Anyone else who has a Sea Queen please join in with your photos.... finished or whatever.
lownslo ...... Bob in Indy

toesupwa

Awwww shucks Lownslo..

We are all here to help out each other...

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Be careful of that Toesup! He will have you converting this into a Springer Tug before you know it!

lownslo

Kmot....
Tugs are cool too!! This is really my second boat, but I count it my first because the TUG I had was a RTR from Aquacraft. It was VERY nice for the money, but there is something about running a boat OR flying an airplane, that you put together from a box of sticks and other woods. I only ran it about 4 times and sold it. Attached here are 2 more photos of my build in progress. I lined up and installed the motor and running gear. I have vinyl vacuum caps to seal both ends of the stuffing box during the balance of the build, and of course will remove the motor too. I was very carful in the U-joint line up. I think it is pretty good. In the one photo, (top view), you can see the temporary building jig I made to assemble the keel and bulkheads. (For any work to do before hull skins go on). This was explained in my first post. I will be making a craddle very soon.
Things are going slow.... but pretty straight ...... so far.[X(]
lownslo
Bob .... in Indy

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Yeah, it was just a fun jab at Toesup and his Springer mania.

Your Sea Queen is looking awesome. Can't wait to see it on the water. I really like this boat and the size of it. Would not mind having one of my own.

sheograth

Great looking build

lownslo

Attached is a photo of a hatch I am adding near the transom on the rear deck. I try to look ahead somewhat. What happens if my rudder arm gets loose? Also ... my water pickup would not be accessible IF I used their decking as in the plans. I have planned a hatch to access the above mentioned items. I have made 6 or 8 of these hatches under the wings of aircraft to hide the wing servo. Of course ... this one will be more "refined".
lownslo ... Bob in Indy

lownslo

The wood in this kit was CNC machined. MOST of the wood is straight and in good shape. I did have some stubborn pieces that were warped. I saw a thread about warped wood when I did a search. I had done all these tricks mentioned on some of my airplane kits. Notice the WEIGHT on the one end of the rear cabin roof base! A little glue and a lot of weight on a flat surface......... and walla, I am back in business.[8D] I still have a challange with the bulkhead that is the front wall of the cockpit. I have tried several times but it keeps going back to the shape "IT" wants to be!![X(]
lownslo ...... Bob in Indy

rblubaugh

My Feedback: (5)

Besides all the neat stuff you've been doing on your boat, I can't help but to notice your Workbench. I just have to ask, is that pre-finished plywood, laquered/varnished plywood or a glass top (oh my [X(])? Also looking at your 'clamps', they appear "about" 1x2x4 inches or so and it looks like 3 inch dry wall screws into the shelf board (hard to tell, just a guess). The idea is sound especially for a plan I'm looking at that has an arched main deck where differeent height clamps could be employed.

Bob from Danville

lownslo

Hello Bob and Others,
The "shelf board keel vise" was my idea ...... but I saw a post somewhere this morning that someone else thought of the same basic thing. Yes.... the vise jaws were from good quality, poplar, 1"X 2" from Lowes in their specialty wood area. It was 2 feet long.
I used the keel piece of ply to space my vice jaws on the board, (between the bulkheads), and used self tapping dry wall screws to anchor the one piece of the jaws down a straight pen line down the board. Bolts, 1/4-20, nuts and washers are the vise "handles".
This may help those with limited space.
You ask about my bench. The 3 attached photos will give you some info as to the glass top, etc. Yes .... there is a piece of glass, 1/4"X24"X48" on the left side of the bench. A green cutting mat on the right. On TOP of the glass ..... for airplane builds, or anything requireing pins, I have a 4'X2' ceiling tile with a "glued on extension" to make it a little over 5 feet long. (I had built some large sailplanes and gassers). NOTE: After the build, the ceiling tile comes off and I use the clean surface to cut the Ultracote covering for my planes. Believe it or not ... I can get at LEAST 2 to 3, long, clean cuts with one razor blade on that glass. The red and white Navy plane is a "kit bashed" LT-40. ..... and it is on my EXTENSION for assembled planes, AND now my boat build. There is a "cutting and sawing board" AND the front extension is attached to the front/middle of the work bench with oak dowel pegs. Simply take one attachment out ... and insert the other in seconds. The bench is made of 2X2s and a $20.00, hollow core, door blank from Lowes, or Home Depot. I am tall so I used 1X8 pine boards to not only raise the work surface, but it added storage under top. There is a "back-splash" board that is anchored to the wall for stability.
Reason for this set up: I had a nice shop. My wife wanted to move. I said, "I need a shop". She gave me this 3rd bedroom for my own use. I made use of every square inch. NOTE: I do heavy duty dirty work on the garage bench.... sanding etc. NO painting in this house room! I built a 9 foot wing span glider in this room..... and had it assembled ... IN this room. Needless to say it can be a PIA, but it is better than the cold or hot garage! I have a small office desk, a computer desk, small file cabinet, and more in this 10 ft.X 11 ft. room![X(]
lownslo ...... Bob in Indy
PS. The last photo is the opposite wall where I have my desk and computer. The tug was the RTR that I ran 4 times and sold it.

lownslo

Sorry guys, I know this is NOT part of construction photos either. I was anxious to see more of what this big boy will look like other than keel and bulkheads. All the decking, roofs, windshield, and mast is just sitting there, or taped in place.
Again I apologize for some non-construction photos. [&o] Has anyone else done things like this, or am I sticking my neck out really far?
lownslo ..... Bob in Indy

toesupwa

Its ok Bob, we all do things like that, sit back and have a 'look'... though have you started making boat noises yet?...

lownslo

toesupwa, ..... No boat noises yet. (I do plan on Ram Air Horns though).
Attached are some photos of a stand I slapped together to hold my boat inverted. A couple of furring strips and some small screws and this stand will serve it's purpose.This will help when I apply the skins and cloth/resin. I have applied some resin the the keel and bulkheads, especially places that will be hard to get to with the skins applied. I was carefull not to get the resin on the surfaces where the skins will be glued. I will apply the final interior resin, including the skins, after applying cloth to exterior. Most of the interior is done so it should be easier. There was a lot of sanding on the false rebates so skins would make full contact when glued.
lownslo ....Bob in Indy
PS In the last photo I have some sanding sticks in different grits. I have some self adhesive sandpaper rolls, but a spray glue could be used with any sandpaper trimmed to size. I save lite ply from "knock outs" in kits for my sticks. (Pack Rat!)

rblubaugh

My Feedback: (5)

Thank you for taking the time to show us your bench set up last week . I know I really appreciated it and saw some neat innovations. Hopefully others did too, especially newb's. Everybody has good ideas on how to set things up that works best for them but they seldom think that their idea's could benefit others. Any way, thanks for taking the time to really show us about your arrangement with your workbench. Sorry I didn't write sooner. There will be others who will come at a later time who will appreciate it too.

Bob in Danville

lownslo

Thanks!
Part of the fun of building, (airplanes and boats), is to come up with certain ideas to help me do the job. It may not be someone else's "cup of tea", but if one person is helped, it was worth the time.
Bob ...... in Indy

blizard05

Who makes the kit, and where can one get info on it?? Larry

maxs

hey try this or go to search on this fourm maxs
http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024...okit_Front.htm

lownslo

I got a lot of information from the site that "maxs" gave you. That place is across the big pond. I got mine from a distributor in the US. Here is the link
Harbor Models.
http://www.harbormodels.com/
Click on the "Cauldercraft" tittle on the first line of boat kits. I paid $265.00 and I don't know if the UK site is cheaper. I did not investigate price and shipping from UK.
lownslo

lownslo

blizzard05 ...
PS. For that $265.00, the motor, U joint, stuffing tube/prop shaft/prop are included. Also a nice brass rudder and small bag of accessories. (plastic.... except for the anchor. It is a grey metal.
The motor may not be the most powerful. I can't judge because I am new to this. You can always upgrade I am told. Some motor specs, as listed in the book that came with it are: Nominal Voltage 12 volts, operating range 6 - 24 volts, RPM @ nominal volts 3000, current at nominal volts. 5 amps, stall current 20.3 amps.
Hope this helps. I decided to use the stock motor and upgrade if it does not perform as desired.
lownslo.

lownslo

Well, well, well ..... Here he goes again! I just had to preview my Queen again. I am temporarily putting in electronics, wireing, and servos. I have also put a lot of the interior finishing resin on. I will do it completely when the skins are on. I am also trying to stain and clear coat the parts I plan that way. I will just have to mask and cover later when doing other things .....like glassing the hull, and painting same. (Can you tell I dread that task by doing as much other stuff as possible?)[:-]
In the last 2 photos I am adding the ball link connectors to the rudder arm. I have made a "cut out" in the inside, back platform, and am going to make a rear hatch too. The way the model is configured in the plans, the rudder arm cannot be accessed. By adding the ball link connectors, (2-56 size, Dubro#2135), it should minimize a loose connection problem. NOTE: I did REPLACE the 2-56 standard nuts with the nylon locking nut for safe measure.
lownslo

Dreamin Hemi

Looking very nice, beginning to take a nice shape. This is going to be a very interesting build. Love the great pictures you've included.

lownslo

Thanks for the kind words "Dreamin Hemi". I am still messing with electrical connections. In the first photo I am drilling holes for the micro switch operated by a Hitec, HS-55 servo. I have 2 of these set ups, (one on each side of the motor box sides). One is for my lights, and this one will be for my Ram air horn sound. (If needed). If not.... it is installed already for "another sound, (or ?). The small cordless drill comes in handy for small projects. I have a real nice set of fractional AND numbered drills, BUT ..... for small simple drilling, I just grab these "cheap" drill bits that have the 1/4"- standard hex end that fits in cordless drills.
Also attached is a WELL WORN, old chart I have referred to for years. (Please ignore my scribbling on the chart.) Some of you guys might want to save this photo and print it out for your shop.
PS. The wires from this particular micro switch are a little heavy in guage, but I plan a 9 volt battery on this switch. I am useing a lot of servo wire parts for some other wireing. I also bought about 6 feet of "tread-like" wire. (32 ga.??).
lownslo