lownslo

I have done some searches for an answer but hope to find something different here with this question.
I will soon be painting my wood hull with 2 different colors. White on the top and dark, tannish, brown on the bottom. I will use about 1/8" stripping tape to seperate the two colors. Clear will go over all.
Question: Are there any secrets to getting a clean, sharp, line? MY FEAR .... is pulling off the paint, (of the first color painted), when removing the masking tape.[X(] I will be using all Kryon paints, including the primer. Krylon crystal clear will go on top of everything, covering the stripping tape and lettering on the transom.
Thanks in advance,
lownslo ..... Bob in Indy.

Dreamin Hemi

First of all, only use the masking tape for just that, masking..... To keep your lines straight and clean and sharp, use 3-M trim tape. It's not paper based but rather vinyl and in the 20 years or so I've been painting, have NEVER had a bleed-through. Edges will definately stay crisp if you use this stuff. Use the masking tape OVERLAPPING but pulled slightly back from the edge of your trim tape and use paper to cover what you dont want overspray on.

[link=https://www.hardwareworld.com/Fine-Line-Masking-Tape-18-inch-X-60-yards-pKZR16W.aspx]https://www.hardwareworld.com/Fine-Line-Masking-Tape-18-inch-X-60-yards-pKZR16W.aspx[/link]

[link=http://www.tcpglobal.com/3m/3m400-3.aspx]http://www.tcpglobal.com/3m/3m400-3.aspx[/link]

You can get this stuff at any NAPA or local paint jobber

TCHedOff

UGH!!!!!!!!! I WISH I had read this about 1month ago!!!!!!!!

Not being a painter, I used Krylon rattle can paint & masking tape ONLY on my .12 rigger to do exactly as LOWNSLO wants to do.... I kept getting some paint seeping over my edge onto the other color. Tried touching up just the affected areas, but ended up with so many coats (like 4) before I got it right that I ended up stripping off all the paint to do over. BTW the Krylon is a PAIN to get off - stripper doesnt work worth a $&^% - so had to handsand. and take to local body shop to do for $200. [X(]

LtDoc

I'm sure there are 'secrets' about using any brand of paint. Those 'secrets' are probably brand specific at least to some degree. I haven't had any problems using 'Krylon' paint that haven't been caused through my own lack of paying attention to what I'm doing, and getting in too big of a hurry.
I agree, that 'plastic' masking tape works better (for me) than the paper stuff does, at least as the 'leading edge'. After that 'leading edge' thingy, anything I happen to have the most of get's used to hold the paper, etc.
If the surface has been prepared at least close to what it should be, then I don't think I'd worry a lot about 'chipping' or 'pulling' up that 'leading edge'. That's on the first color! I would also recommend waiting for that first color to 'set' before ever putting any kind of tape on it. That setting time is variable, so more is usually better to some ridiculous degree. "Who, me? I ain't never! And I certainly don't plan on doing it again."... sort of.
Be careful, take your time, READ the instructions, and have fun.
- 'Doc

cyclops2

I never use a primer. TOO soft when dry.
I put on any large color area.
Let it dry ....UNTIL...you DO NOT SMELL ANY odor when you SLIGHTLY heat the paint in a 140 to 160 F oven................ NO odor. It is dry & is ready for a masking tape job.
I am a Electrican. So I mask everything with the stretchy black Vynyl tape. It is a great tape as it is stretchy and VERY FLAT, EDGE TO THE EDGE!!!!!!!!.
I peel it off at a very steep angle. I am dragging the removed piece over the part still stuck down...ALWAYS pull any tape off WAY,WAY before it is too dry!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Damp is fine.
I have never tried using 2 or more coats on the tape & then pulling it up.

lownslo

Great advice guys.... and thanks again.
BTW ... cyclops 2... I need a different stove with a VERY big oven. My Sea Queen is 46 inchs long!!
"Tanks"
lownslo .... Bob in Indy

Dreamin Hemi

FYI, just now completed masking off another canopy windshield of a DCS. Notice how sharp and defined the edges are, and also how I remove the 3M vinyl tape.

lownslo

Don't ya just love photos. Like the old saying: One picture is worth 1000 words!
PS. BTW ..... I just purchased some vinyl, thin line tape this morning. I am ready to fine sand the finishing resin in a couple days. They said 7 days foe a FULL cure. I am not in that big of a hurry. Thanks again,
lownslo ..... Bob in Indy
PS. That paint job is nice at the line!!!!

Dreamin Hemi

Wait till you see it with clearcoat in about an hour!

sims5hd

My Feedback: (2)

pull tape off before paint gets to dry to avoid paint pulling off.

Dreamin Hemi

Made a few of them over the weekend. Some of them are posted on my site, but thought since I mentioned them clear coated in this thread, here are a couple.

The pair of them has a silver sparkle/pearl additive in the 1'st layer of clearcoat. The other "Stinger" was modeled after an actual boat for a customer. The rest of that hull is also in that site in signature.

lownslo

Very nice Dremin Hemi.
My fine line tape worked just great for my hull bottom and sides seperation of color. That is the good news. The "kind of" bad news is the disappointment of the look on the bottom surface, (after the paint was applied), of mainly the hull bottom. I thought I did a great job of filling grain and dents. The dents were for the most part just fine. The grain was the real problem. Most of the bottom had a skim coat of spot putty that showed up as lines. Thinking, AND "feeling the smooth surface", it felt great, and it looked pretty good after the gray primer. After the paint went on it did not look that good. I even wet sanded the primer and thought I was home free. It is not too bad ..... but not up to my expectations. I am not going to do it over. This is my first boat kit and paint ...... and since most all above the water line looks very nice, I am going to forget the minor imperfections and enjoy my Sea Queen shortly. I have the deck and painting to apply, stripping, lettering, and clear coat everything. All the electronics wiring etc, is finished. I only have to re-install it.
lownslo,
Bob in Indy.

Dreamin Hemi

When you get a chance, why don't you share your project with is by adding some pictures!

lownslo

I tried to get a close up of the bottom,(using macro), but it did not turn out to show imperfections. That means it's perfect ... right? The fine line tape did give a sharp line separating the tan and white. It is even sharper in person as it seems in editing the photo some "jaggednes" seems to be in the large photo on my computer. I will be putting on a red dividing stripe and the lettering on the transom before the clear coat. I might name it "Day Dremin" ....... not sure yet.
lownslo...... Bob in Indy

cyclops2

I now only use auto body shop " pin stripping tapes " for all fine lines at the WL . They are very thin & colors are solid.. no see thru.... Can usually be covered by clear coats.

Check with a couple of body shops about do's & do nots.

Rich

DONS BOAT WORKS

My Feedback: (3)

Looks Great!!!
I like the name Day Dremin.

Don M.

Dreamin Hemi

Sort of take a liking to it myself..lol

lownslo

Thanks Guys ....... I kind of messed up on the spacing of the lettering on the transom. I even measured a couple times but when the letters went on it was not too my likeing.
Cyclops 2 ....... yeah .... this is auto pin stripping too. I tried to get 3/16" but got tired of running around wasting gas. This is 1/4", a little wide, but I am getting anxious to get her finished. The 1/8" was a little too narrow for my taste. Oh well. ..... it don't look too bad. I am now making a removeable, "boat transporter platform" for our grand kid's wagon. (Just in case they want to use it)! As I mentioned before, we have 5 lakes/ponds, in the 2 subdivision additions. Ole Bob can get some exersice haulin' my boat from lake to lake. It is a mile 'round trip to all five lakes. It is one of those large plastic wagons. It has a side door ..... sooooo, I can store small cooler, transmitter, etc, under the platform. My carry-bag lawnchair and fish pole boat retriever will fit on top with boat. I will have some photos when it is finished.
lownslo .... Bob in Indy

pompebled

Hi Bob,

The boat looks great in the pictures!

I don't remember, but did you add a coat of epoxy resin prior to the paint?
If so, that should have filled most of the grain you're complaining about (not that I can see it in the picture).

When weight isn't such an issue, I apply several thin coats of epoxy 'wet in wet' to get a surface as smooth as possible after the final sanding.
Had you gone for one layer of glasscloth, the grain issue would not have come up (in stead you'd have had to deal with other issues...).

Go and get her wet!

Regards, Jan.

lownslo

Thanks Jan,
Yes. ..... I did skim coat the hull with epoxy resin. This went on top of the spot putty which I thought did its job. I still don't understand what went wrong, but it is not real bad. Oh well ..... like they used to say at my RC flying field about a airplane's less than perfect finish. .... 50 people, at 50 feet, will never complain about your aircraft's finish!

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

Nice job on the boat!

Hemi mentioned the 3M vinyl fineline masking tape. It's the best.

I have learned how to make my masking jobs better with it. First and foremost with masking is taking care of your roll like it's gold. Don't drop it, ding the edges, pull off the roll hard, or pull on it to cut it. Treat it real fragile the whole time you own it, store it in a ziploc bag in a safe place by itself with nothing piled on it or in a bag of other rolls and before doing any masking make sure your bench is ultimately clean and covered with plastic and watch what your setting it down on when using it. A clean paper plate works good.

Most my masking problems such as bleed under or bad line all were caused from just not taking care of the new roll, keeping the sticky edges of it clean, and making sure I don't stretch it on the roll.

Primer and paint you have to be careful because sometimes paint doesn't stick to its primer very well because the primer went on dusty. Always be sure to scuff it down the best you can before paint. The thicker the primer, the softer the paint job will be when it's dry.

lownslo

Well ..... now I can say eeeekks[X(]...... about something that just blew me away. (See the attached Photo). This happened to the cabin roof in white, but I was not applying correctly, OR giving enough time for the solvents to evaporate before recoating. I patched and re-did main cabin a couple times!![:@] I thought all of that was behind me. I used ALL Krylon so there was no mixing of brands on the hull ..... TAN and WHITE. The white had over 3 or 4 days to dry an looked great. Notice the tan... It was sprayed with clear at the same time and amount as the white, but it was not damaged. (?????) Now I will have to do the transom over. Oh well.... I was unhappy with the letter spacing anyway!! The next clear will be a polyurathane clear....... the problem was...... in tests...... this did not stay clear, but had a slight yellow cast. What is the best polyu out there for a clear over my Krylon?
Thanks,
lownslo ..... Bob in Indy

cyclops2

That is from a bad batch of solvents in the paints. Nothing you did could have prevented. Krylon caused the "crackle " finish.

Rich

pompebled

Hi Bob,

I always put the resin on the bare wood and fill later, if required. You did it the other way around, which may be the cause of the 'untidy' surface.
Never mind, it's been painted over already...

Love the 'weathering' on the transom (just kiddin').

Regards, Jan.

srw1960

Look at the cans of paint you used and make certain they are all the same type of paint..IE lacquer, enamel,polyurethane or acrylliuc urethane...that condition is called crazing and most usually occurs when incompatible paints are sprayed over each other...looks like the white may have been an enamel and the clear was polyurethane that combo will wrinkle and craze every time..that would explain why the tan was fine and the white not so fine......the clear coat you used had a hotter solvent for its base than the white paint did and so when it went onto the white paint it reliqufied the white and caused the crazing..it also could be caused by the primer you used but if that was the case should have seen the entire boat affected...aint painting fun?...anyway double check the paints and at least its an easy fix..Good luck and nice job inspite of the small set back.