1QwkSport2.5r

The little .35 has 3 gallons through it and it's still getting stronger. The piston still gets stuck about 1/4 turn of the crank towards TDC once the exhaust port is closed Balancing? Nah. Balancing a single cylinder engine is near impossible if not impossible. It seems it takes 4-5 gallons to be broken in good. This is an engine that will probably last for 30 or more gallons before needing to do any work to it besides bearing changes. Probably more fuel than that even. Best part is.... Made in USA.

supertib

Absolutely not...no way no how can a loner develop the skills that a competitive racer can....you have no idea how big the talent pool is and just how effective it is at developing people's skills and knowledge...If most bashers were that great of tuners 98% of the posted bash videos wouldn't have engines with terrible tunes....

Sealing ruins the o-rings and its not needed, its absolute malarky and the so called airleaks are only a symptom of too much idle gap................... 1 mm idle gap can be used for breakin but other then that it makes tuning impossible..so why start with a idle gap thats twice as large as needed, it makes no sense.... that is the #1 tuning issue everyone has, I can hear it in 90% of the posted videos online, everyone has high racy lean sounding idles............ think about ***, what are the chances of a engine leaking at the base of the carb when the carb throat is wide open ? how on earth is there going to be enough vacuum present to draw air thru the o-ring seals at the base of the carb ? its not going to happen, the only way there would be enough vacuum is if we completely shut the carb slide off which would instantly kill the engine anyways........... engines don't leak at the base of the carb like many think and front bearing aren't supposed to hold air under water.....its absolute malarky...

If you have tuning tips for me I ask you once again to just post a video of your best running car under load.. I am tired of hearing excuses how things don't sound right on video as that's just a lame excuse that tells me you are not confident in what you can show..... I can show you plenty of videos with sharp running engines of all different brands under full race conditions so I am pretty sure I have my idle gap/LSN ratios figured out just fine the real question is do YOU ! .. Show me some video to prove that you have your gear anywhere near as dialed as I have my gear and then maybe we can talk,

supertib

Also if a car engines RPM hangs coming off throttle it is the HSN that is too lean and or the idle gap too big, almost never is it the LSN being too lean and trust me me you can take this one to the bank !

1QwkSport2.5r

It should be noted although mostly moot; Slide Carburetors work differently than barrel type Carburetors in that slide carbs don't have the same interaction between the idle circuit and main circuits. The engines I posted above use barrel type Carburetors where the idle needle affects fuel mixture for the first 70% of throttle travel and only after that does it lose its influence and the main needle "takes over". Slide Carburetors' idle needle doesn't have as much influence - probably only the first 10% of throttle travel. So because of this, I think there is some creedance to what Neal is saying.... However (pardon my skepticism) I am going to test that idea out when the weather warms up some. I will note - the multi-step idle drops that Neal mentions in his tuning guide for a properly tuned engine are real. My best running car engine runs like a top and does what he describes.

supertib

Actually there are long.medium and short needle carbs....... a long needle the LSN has influence over 100% of the pull ( OS Speed engines ) .... the medium needles anywhere from 40-70 % ( Nova offroad carbs ) an the shorties 30% or less ( RB,Hudy,Werks,LRP ) ..........almost all basher engines are short needle so my tuning guide is aimed towards those style of carbs......... on the long needle carbs a slightly different approach is needed...but what is universal between all these engines is that the first sign of a lean HSN is a hanging high idle when letting off the trigger......... other things can cause it to with the most common being idle gap ( hanging linkage also being common ) ...Adjusting the LSN is not how to correct a hanging throttle..and if you try to correct it with the LSN your going to get the needles right out of whack....99.99 % of the time a hanging throttle is the HSN or the idle gap...

supertib

here is a mix of engines... I tuned all 3 of them...all are pretty nicely tuned

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXwvAh7VIDE

supertib

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBw1K6Hh4fM

supertib

So here is a video from the RC Pro Canadian Nationals we hosted at my track.... I tuned about 2/3 of the cars on the track in this race..the winner was one of my modified engines too ..this was my first national win

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f07Tuop5sU0 idle down is critical in offroad racing as it allows the nose of the car to drop in the air, if idle hangs in any way they land tail first which causes issues... so having perfect power and instant idle down is of utmost importance.....this is a area where we see many struggle..trying to get peak performance while maintaining a instant idle down and still retaining a solid reliable idle , even after 40 minutes of continuous track time....

Nitrovein

+1 Running an engine that don't idle down is near impossible on a track. You have to have the ability to adjust the car in the air, especially if you want to scrub a jump.

They all sound good!

Anthoop

You replied but hardly read a word I wrote?
As said before there are of course more people that are new/inexperienced than older/experienced, therefore you will always have more dubiuos advice/video...that is obvious.

Again you presume you know me with "you have no idea how big the talent pool is"....

Sealing does not ruin O rings....maybe that threebond stuff does, I have never used it....but to be honest you do not even need O rings....all you need is a seal...be it via gaskets/sealant/O rings/etc. As already said in most cases you will never need it but done properly and there are no adverse efffects......oh and yes I would never suggest anyone to do the underwater bubble test, about as useful as the pinch test for the LSN setting.....or setting the idle gap to a preset and adjusting the LSN around that...or much more bs....

You do not seem to realise that if the carb neck leaks then you will get problems....both at idle and after opening the throttle then closing throttle...try an engine without any carb neck seal....then get back to me...( I have no idea why you made that comment about "what are the chances of a carb leaking at the base").

"You are tired.....bla bla....tells me you are not confident" ....again you presume you know me and put me into a category....let me tell you I am confident that I can tune a two stroke engine...even with the most primitive carburettor...

Notice you did not reply to how much love you actually get from Monty...and I forgot you only really do offroad....as I have said to you before Neal...I am impressed how far you have come and I wish you well.

supertib

Sealing does ruin o-rings....but maybe we have a different definition of ruined..... to me a o-ring with jagged bits of silicone stuck to it is ruined.......anything short of pristine is ruined when o-rings are concerned..... silicone makes a mess and its hard to clean up afterwards....... even on the sealing surfaces, if the silicone is put on right it can be a nightmare to clean afterwards.... And I agree on something you said and I was going to mention it, if someone was to use silicone its best to remove the o-ring altogether, the silicone on its own will make a much better seal then trying to mix a o-ring with silicone... And I have run engine with the carb sticking up 1/4" and the tune has held, if it wasn't for the carb twisting and throwing the linkage off I would not have known.... Air takes the easiest path into the engine, its much easier for air to just flow down the open throat of the carb then it is to force its way between the carb and the block...

We only use a 0.5 mm as a starting point as its much more accurate then starting with a 1 mm gap that most bashers seem to think is proper.......if I was wrong the internet wouldn't be full of videos with high idling horrible sounding engines...Now Ron from Werks preaches using a fixxed 0.5 mm idle gap and tuning around it, but I don't quite agree with that for all engines, it works quite well for engines with a short LSN like Ron's Werks engines but doesn't work as well for engines with long LSN's....

And I cannot comment about Monty, it would not be fair for me to comment about one of my competitors somewhere he cannot defend himself.....wish I could say more but I can't so we will leave it there !

Seriously i would like to see something of yours running..show me how well your engines run....i don't think this is a unfair thing to ask .

Anthoop

Fair enough not commenting about Monty...I might try to remember to log into the other forum and send him a msg...and Ron is a guy I will always respect even if I disagree....
You will probably never see a video made by me Neal.....my phone is just a little newer than those that had a suitcase to work....I have nothing to prove....I know what I know and you can think whatever you like, it is of no bother to me.