Traxxas Jato 3.3 Not starting.
11-15-2016, 07:36 PM
#1
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Traxxas Jato 3.3 Not starting.
I recently received a Traxxas Jato 3.3 but it wont start, it makes all the noises it should like its trying to start but just wont, I've already removed the carburetor and cleaned it but it got clogged again somehow. I used air filter oil and cleaned my air filter before trying to start and i've never ran the car yet so the filter shouldn't be dirty enough to clog the carb right after cleaning it, my guess is i need a new carburetor because the idle screw just keeps turning and wont move in or out and the fact that it just clogged again. The glow plug is fine I put it in a glow stick and it glows red. What could be the cause of it not starting any help will be much appreciated.
11-16-2016, 04:15 PM
#2
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-n...l#post12268831
Some things to try in the link above. These engines need air, fuel, a good glow plug, and compression to run. Most often, glow engines won't run if the glow plug is bad (bad plugs can still glow bright orange) or if there isn't enough fuel getting to the engine. How are you priming the engine to start it? What fuel and glow plugs are you using? What kind of starting system?
Some things to try in the link above. These engines need air, fuel, a good glow plug, and compression to run. Most often, glow engines won't run if the glow plug is bad (bad plugs can still glow bright orange) or if there isn't enough fuel getting to the engine. How are you priming the engine to start it? What fuel and glow plugs are you using? What kind of starting system?
11-16-2016, 04:40 PM
#3
How do you know the carb is clogged ?
If you remove the high speed needle, remove the muffler pressure line from the muffler and blow through it does fuel pour out of the high speed valve body ?
How many turns out are the low and high speed needles?
What are you calling the idle screw?
If you remove the high speed needle, remove the muffler pressure line from the muffler and blow through it does fuel pour out of the high speed valve body ?
How many turns out are the low and high speed needles?
What are you calling the idle screw?
11-16-2016, 04:50 PM
#5
Saying the needles are stock tells me nothing.
How many turns out are the low and high speed needles set ?
11-16-2016, 04:53 PM
#6
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HSN- 4 out
LSN- 1 1/2 out
Im pretty sure the carb has a leak in it, when i press the easy start button and pull the throttle the car will drive all around until i let completely off throttle.
LSN- 1 1/2 out
Im pretty sure the carb has a leak in it, when i press the easy start button and pull the throttle the car will drive all around until i let completely off throttle.
11-17-2016, 05:04 AM
#10
Not necessarily. An improperly set idle gap and needle setting can cause hard starting and not idling. If there is a question of whether the engine is worn out, checking the piston fit would be in order. If the engine is easy to turn over by hand through TDC with the plug installed with engine cold, then I'd agree it is probably worn out. If it's hard to turn over by hand, then I'd suspect the carburetor is out of whack. Oftentimes the factory needle settings are too rich for the engine to start and run properly if the engine has some runtime on it. Try holding the throttle open 1/4 when trying to start it with a good prime.
The idle gap should be .5-.6mm. I find turning the idle mixture needle in 1/4-1/2 turn from factory setting is a good place to start for a used engine.
11-17-2016, 11:33 AM
#11
Not necessarily. An improperly set idle gap and needle setting can cause hard starting and not idling. If there is a question of whether the engine is worn out, checking the piston fit would be in order. If the engine is easy to turn over by hand through TDC with the plug installed with engine cold, then I'd agree it is probably worn out. If it's hard to turn over by hand, then I'd suspect the carburetor is out of whack. Oftentimes the factory needle settings are too rich for the engine to start and run properly if the engine has some runtime on it. Try holding the throttle open 1/4 when trying to start it with a good prime.
The idle gap should be .5-.6mm. I find turning the idle mixture needle in 1/4-1/2 turn from factory setting is a good place to start for a used engine.
The idle gap should be .5-.6mm. I find turning the idle mixture needle in 1/4-1/2 turn from factory setting is a good place to start for a used engine.
11-17-2016, 04:54 PM
#12
It does seem as of lately some folks would rather have other folks do the leg work for them... Kind of a pain to help someone when all they need to do is search the forum a bit. I do agree with you though - not getting all of the details doesn't make it any easier to help someone, but if they can't get a used engine running, I have my doubts they'll have any better luck with a new engine.
11-18-2016, 02:48 AM
#13
Yes I agree.
My final contribution to this thread.
When all else fails........read the manual ! Good luck.
https://traxxas.com/support/Tuning-Y...st-Performance
My final contribution to this thread.
When all else fails........read the manual ! Good luck.
https://traxxas.com/support/Tuning-Y...st-Performance
Last edited by flyinwalenda; 11-18-2016 at 03:22 AM.
01-17-2017, 07:20 PM
#14
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if the car will start and run but not stay on when you stop rolling. you may have a stuck or broken clutch. which would effectively stall your engine every time you let the car slow down. How to replace the clutch shoes on a traxxas 3.3 engine - YouTube should tell you what you need to know
Last edited by fourtofifteen; 01-17-2017 at 07:25 PM.
