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Kyosho KE21R issues

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Old 07-25-2018, 06:21 PM
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kwhunter
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Default Kyosho KE21R issues

I run this engine on the TKI3 RS buggy.
I'm not very experienced with glow engines, but this one is definitely very inconsistent. I broke the engine in, and after that I changed the venture, as per the book; struggled to set it up and finally it was running ok; next time I started it it will quit; struggled again, fixed it, ran it a couple times with no issues. Today I started it again, and it will shut down by itself; either under acceleration, or idling. I leaned the LSN until it idled rough, then back it up and it makes no difference, it will shut off after running a little while. Also, at high speed it will shut down unexpectedly.
I sealed the carburetor shaft and the clamping screw, as well as the back plate so there is no leak.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
Old 07-26-2018, 05:22 AM
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1QwkSport2.5r
 
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It’s probably too lean. Lean engines will quit, rich engines will rarely quit unless they are super loaded up. Changing the glow plug helps sometimes too.
Old 07-28-2018, 11:26 AM
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kwhunter
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It pumps lots of smoke, either at acceleration from idle or when I squeeze the throttle; maybe it's not yet broken in as I have about 2/3 of a gallon through the engine
Old 07-28-2018, 01:22 PM
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1QwkSport2.5r
 
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Originally Posted by kwhunter
It pumps lots of smoke, either at acceleration from idle or when I squeeze the throttle; maybe it's not yet broken in as I have about 2/3 of a gallon through the engine
The amount and color of smoke is irrelevant. Every fuel burns differently. You need to go off of how the engine sounds and by reading the glow plug. Post a clear picture of the bottom of a used glow plug where the engine was running poorly and if you can, a video clip of the engine not running correctly. This will confirm or deny the problem. Broken in or not, these engines will run well if tuned properly. They are technically broken in within 2-3 tanks of fuel; they just run stronger and stronger until they lose their cold pinch. Then they are basically at the peak of power and it’s downhill from there.
Old 07-28-2018, 04:22 PM
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kwhunter
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Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r

The amount and color of smoke is irrelevant. Every fuel burns differently. You need to go off of how the engine sounds and by reading the glow plug. Post a clear picture of the bottom of a used glow plug where the engine was running poorly and if you can, a video clip of the engine not running correctly. This will confirm or deny the problem. Broken in or not, these engines will run well if tuned properly. They are technically broken in within 2-3 tanks of fuel; they just run stronger and stronger until they lose their cold pinch. Then they are basically at the peak of power and it’s downhill from there.
I will take pictures and post here; I managed to get it better today, at least it doesn't shut off anymore. I'm certain I am a far cry from a proper tune, but I will improve as I learn.
The fuel I use is 20% nitro and 16% oil, maybe that explains the thick smoke. I also managed to keep the temperature around 120-128°C (248-262F) adjusting the HSN, and I ran it through all RPMs over 2½ tanks (I had an issue with overheating before, probably I ran it too lean).

Will come back, thanks.

PS I won't be able to post any attachment until I get 10 posts...

Last edited by kwhunter; 07-28-2018 at 04:24 PM.
Old 07-28-2018, 05:17 PM
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Drop the oil content!!! That will make tuning piles easier AND make the engine run cooler. If you’re over a half gallon, 11-12% oil is all you need provided it’s got a decent amount of castor in it. 16% oil is horrid to tune with for any sort of performance. Okay for the first quart of fuel from brand new, but NO MORE.
Old 07-28-2018, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
Drop the oil content!!! That will make tuning piles easier AND make the engine run cooler. If you’re over a half gallon, 11-12% oil is all you need provided it’s got a decent amount of castor in it. 16% oil is horrid to tune with for any sort of performance. Okay for the first quart of fuel from brand new, but NO MORE.
Agree on the oil content, but the other mixture available here is 30% nitro and 12% oil (it comes from a manufacturer in AL, USA). I still have over 1 gallon of that fuel, I could dilute it with methyl alcohol, but I don't have nitromethane to bring it up.

PS I have a NOS soviet made boat engine and the fuel recommended in the manual is 75% (ethyl)alcohol and 25% castor oil. I mixed my own and it works, but tonnes of smoke.

Last edited by kwhunter; 07-28-2018 at 05:37 PM.
Old 07-29-2018, 04:20 AM
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What country do you live in? The 30/12 fuel might be the better choice when you finish the fuel you have as it will tune much easier than the 16% oil fuel you’re using now. The problem with lots of oil is it requires a leaner setting to get clean performance, but the consequence is the mixture is then too lean and the engine runs hot (and cause preignition most likely).

You could do a Frankenstein mixture of the 20/16 fuel, some 30/12 fuel, and some methanol to balance the Nitro and oil content, but if I were you, I’d run the 30/12 fuel if you cannot get anything else with lower oil content.
Old 07-29-2018, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
What country do you live in? The 30/12 fuel might be the better choice when you finish the fuel you have as it will tune much easier than the 16% oil fuel you’re using now. The problem with lots of oil is it requires a leaner setting to get clean performance, but the consequence is the mixture is then too lean and the engine runs hot (and cause preignition most likely).

You could do a Frankenstein mixture of the 20/16 fuel, some 30/12 fuel, and some methanol to balance the Nitro and oil content, but if I were you, I’d run the 30/12 fuel if you cannot get anything else with lower oil content.
I live just north of your northern border, and all fuel is imported from the US; not many choices and I am not paying hazmat fees to have it shipped from the US. I just bought another gallon of the 20/16 yesterday, so I will have to use it as I cannot return it. But I will try today the 12% castor oil and straight methanol concoction.
Old 07-29-2018, 08:31 AM
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Or just add enough methanol to the 20/16 fuel to drop the oil to 12%. 12-15% Nitro works just fine. Adjust the head spacing to about .015” or about .4mm.
Old 07-29-2018, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
Or just add enough methanol to the 20/16 fuel to drop the oil to 12%. 12-15% Nitro works just fine. Adjust the head spacing to about .015” or about .4mm.
This is what I'm using:
morganfuelDOTcom/sidewinder_byb
Old 07-29-2018, 06:37 PM
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Link is incomplete.
Old 07-29-2018, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
Link is incomplete.
just replace DOT with . and it will open right up, but copy and paste in a new tab; it won't let me post \\\\\urls, less than 10 posts...
Old 07-31-2018, 10:12 AM
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You say you changed the venturi after break in, have you changed the glow plug, or are you still running the one you broke in with? If you are replace it with a fresh one.
Old 08-04-2018, 04:47 AM
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If your LHS can get the Sidewinder Race 20% instead, that would be much more suitable. It consists of 20% Nitro and 12% oil.
Old 08-09-2018, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by tcharger
You say you changed the venturi after break in, have you changed the glow plug, or are you still running the one you broke in with? If you are replace it with a fresh one.
Multi-quote does not work for me (I didn't manage to make it work...) so I'll answer each message individually.
Yes, using the same #8; now the engine runs fine.
Old 08-09-2018, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
If your LHS can get the Sidewinder Race 20% instead, that would be much more suitable. It consists of 20% Nitro and 12% oil.
Managed to get a jug of Morgan's Sidewinder 20/12; most of the fuel they carry is 30/12. Will try it over the weekend.

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