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Vintage O.S. .21 Storage & Compression

Old 11-30-2019, 04:46 AM
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kyoshofan88
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Default Vintage O.S. .21 Storage & Compression

Hey All,
I have a very old O.S. .21 in an old Kyosho Vanning that I've recently become concerned about. The car & engine have been shelf-residents since new, but I recently noticed it's become much more difficult to spin the crank by hand & it feels like it won't be long before there's no compression left at all. Admittedly I haven't done much of anything to protect it from wear that comes just from sitting idle for such a long time. Is there anything that can be done to reverse the damage that's already been done? What about just to prevent it from getting worse? While it's unlikely I'll ever opt to run this one, I would like to retain the option, or at least be able to say that the engine has some life left in it should I ever decide to sell. Thanks!
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Old 11-30-2019, 12:07 PM
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1QwkSport2.5r
 
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If the engine has been run at all, the residual oil in the engine will dry out over time making a sticky gunk that freezes things up. This isn’t a bad thing and it certainly won’t remove any life from the engine unless the oil contained in the engine was synthetic oil only. If the engine is new and never run, the factory used a light oil that too will dry out over time. A simple fix for any of this would be to flush the engine with acetone, drain and dry, and re-oil with a good storage oil. I prefer to use Dexron (any variant is fine) automatic transmission fluid (ATF). I use a liberal amount to thoroughly coat the inside of the engine, crankshaft, and bearings. Remove excess and button it back up. This will keep the engine smooth and limber for decades to come.
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Old 11-30-2019, 02:57 PM
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Like any nitro motor, store it with the piston at bdc.
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Old 11-30-2019, 05:07 PM
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kyoshofan88
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The engine has definitely never been run. I will pick up some acetone. Thanks again for the tips!
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Old 11-30-2019, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by kyoshofan88 View Post
The engine has definitely never been run. I will pick up some acetone. Thanks again for the tips!
Just make sure you get all of the acetone out of the engine and the insides are dry before oiling the engine. This ensures the oil gets to where it needs to and stays there. Removing the head and backplate is best as this gets the solvent where it needs to be quicker. Donít turn the engine through TDC with solvent in it or bone dry as this can scuff the piston. Once itís oiled and the head is back on it with a glow plug installed, it can be completely turned over a time or two without any issue. I wouldnít turn a Rossi over cold, but OS engines arenít very tight, so there is little if any risk of damage by doing so. Some will argue this until theyíre blue in the face, but my experience tells me itís totally fine.

If I may ask - Why have it as a shelf queen?
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