DanMN

Chuck, Not sure if you were aiming your post at me, but I wasn't slamming Traxxas. They sell alot of vehicles. I am assuming more than anyone else. I also own two which I enjoy. I didn't slam Traxxas, just commented on how I think that TA vehicles are easier to work on. How do you know how much experience I have anyway??????

redfisher1974

We got your point three posts ago, No need to beat it into the ground.

Chucksolo69

Hmmmmm, didn't know Canucks were that smart.

cumquat

that's BC, not ontario...

Speed917

Freezetron

Pffff, my LHS doesn't carry squat for AE, so that argument is mute.

Speed917

Iwant BLbc its fast and simple. Im not worried about cheap im worried about quality. I want to buy something that is going to last.

Now as per kits im really unsure of how much work is involved. Imean they look simple to me but im sure there is a lot more to it then just taking a few piece and slapping them together. ?

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

The argument is MOOT, Freeze...MOOT. Dictionary.com[&:]

And from the sound of things, your LHS sucks, so it's of no consequence to us. Any LHS that doesn't sell AE and Losi sucks.

cumquat

i cant vouch for ae, hpi or others but tamiya kits are easy to build. the instructions are mostly pictures, often 1:1 to the part, and are straight forward in design. they have quarks but what doesnt? if you have changed an A-arm, a shock tower and an internal gear, you have done everything you would likely do when building a kit. you can usually find build threads if you do some googling.

Zacoriah14

Traxxas is a great company, with really cool new stuff (although extremely overpriced), but their Rustler and Bandit need to be discontinued. They have served their purpose of getting new people into the hobby. Redesign the Rustler and Bandit or something. At this point it's almost like selling used cars at new car prices. You have all these Rustler fans thinking they've the best Stadium Truck of all time.

Speed917

OK So what exactly can be done to a stadium truck to make it more efficient on off road surfaces, such as grass,leaves small sticks ?
Is their lift kits or can the suspension be lifted?
Tires/wheels are there options to go bigger? (i have looked at sites but i dont think there were anything bigger just different designs.)

Also im still wondering where/which charger i should be buying?

redfisher1974

Does not surprise me.

cumquat

with st's you can adjust the shock position for more ride. for tires, you will want 2.2's. they range from 3.5"od to over 5"od so you can find a set that fit your needs. for running some place similar to central park, just use something around 4-4.5" OD (dirt hawgs work well) and a motor with a bit of torque (IE 4000kv or less) on 2s. for chargers, i have this http://www.hobbypartz.com/thac6smbachw.html . its not the strongest on the market but you could do way worse.

ZeroKelvin

ok, I usually don't participate in such worthlessness, but allthough there may be an NHLteam known as the Vancouver Canucks (based out of British Columbia, ie, BC), the word Canuck is a slang term for all Canadians, it covers all inhabitants of Canada, not just a term refering to people fromthe province known as British Columbia.

As to the original statement about "canucks" and their intelligence, shame on the poster. I personally love ya guys up north.

Speed917

Ok so would 2.2's work on any vehicle of would i have to custom fab them?
Im unsure of what lipos to run and what company makes good quality ones? 2s i assume would be good enough or 3s ?

My main fear about kits is, what tools are needed and do kits come complete with Remote. Batteries and charger im buying either way.

Thanks again.

What about http://www.hobbypartz.com/skychb6chdup.html . Is this one good ?

cumquat

kits require (usually) a motor/esc or engine (as the case may be), servo(s) and receiver. some come with tires/wheels, some dont. most kits can be built with a small set of phillips head and hex head drivers and a few misc wrenches. they may come with the appropriate allen keys and the industry standard 4-way wrench. depending on the kit, you may find a couple pairs of pliers, a sharp knife, locktite, misc oil and lubes as well as a vise. you can build most kits without the vise (its more of a hindsight thing from building a df02. the tires are a VERY hard compound and did not want to go on the wheels. the vice4 would have saved a half hour and very sore, tired hands), most kits come with a bottle of shock oil and some even come with the motor and esc, although they arent the greatest.


i forgot to talk about the tires. 2.2's will work on most vehicles but many are better with a different size. i'm not sure what you mean by fab them but if it's 1/10th scale they will probably bolt on pretty easily if the drive is right. what i mean by drive is how the axles spin the wheels. some use a simple pin (see duratrax evader ext2), some use a 12mm hex (see tamiya df02) and some use a proprietary hex (see Team Durango DESC410R). on the topic of short course, they use an alternative wheel/tire that is 2.2" on the outside and 3" on the inside. it may seem confusing but once you look around it starts clearing itself up {insert STD joke here}.

redfisher1974

Thanks for clearing that up Kelvin.

Speed917

Thanks for explaining the kits, sounds like it might take me a while to do that and cuirrenlty i dont have much free time . So i guess RTRis where im going.

Now as per tires im not even sure i know what i was talking about lol ....Ok so Yes 1/10 is the scale im going with at this point im thinking the SC10 is where im going to start although i found a brand new Slash RTR for $100 but its not brushless .
What site is best for tires? Iwas looking at some hobby shops,amazon but im unsure of the quality of the tires. Does the tread pattern really make a huge difference ?

cumquat

my first (and as of now only) kit took 6 hours from opening the box to testing for function. it did help having experience in restoring an old rc10 gold pan or 2 but even if you have no experience in the hobby, it shouldnt take more than 10 hours. here is the instruction manual for the df02 http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/manuals/58328ml.pdf most small parts are the same size as their illustration.

between those 2, get the sc10. i wont get into my reasons but get the sc10.

www.towerhobbies.com www.amainhobbies.com
tread makes an astronomical difference. pin-type tires are worn out easier than large lug-type tires. pins are commonly used for racing do to their high grip (not sure what exactly gives them the grip though...) and lower rotating mass (no 1/4"-1/2" solid rubber lugs). common pin-types are proline hole shot and jconcepts goosebumps.

lugs are favorable for bashing do to their durability and traction an all surfaces. they arent the bust on much of anything (gravel is one of the hardest surfaces to grip and they do pretty well) but they are the best for going from grass to the street then to loose dirt. common lugs are proline dirt hawgs.

then there are chevrons. these are what the big international tractors use, as well as monster trucks. they grip most surfaces like lugs do but they are also frequently larger, causing stress on the drive line and a higher than normal cg. they are best suited for dirt and do to their near-paddle design they can fair well in sand. common tires are proline masher 2k.

paddle tires are mostly used for sand but a recent incline in formula offroad (youtube it. often abbreviated foff) has lead to a slight surge in variations for different terrains. they can be used on the rear wheels of 2wd's with the assistance of a ribbed front (commonly used with pins for racing) or a single rib in the middle (see panther razor).

lastly, you have road tires. used almost exclusively on paved or carpeted surfaces, they have very low profiles for added stability. the can be rubber, tread or slick, or foam.

Sigma.40

My Feedback: (1)

I've, so far, only read the first page of this thread so if this is irrelevent, forgive me.

At one point I owned 14 different RCs (not many compared to some people, but still). One was a Rustler and one was a Stampede. I sold all 14 to buy the 3 cars (not the helis) I have listed below. Out of all 14 I sold I ONLY miss the Stampede. It was only a 2WD BRUSHED motor Stampede, but I miss it. My old one was fast as hell and went everywhere. I couldn't imagine how much fun a 'Pede VXL or VXL 4x4 would be.

Just my $0.02

Speed917

Ok all i need some help! ... I have some guy trying to sell me a Rustler that was recently turned into a VXL comes RTR for 220? Im unsure why he is going so cheap all of a sudden(originally wanted 270). Is there a way to tell the difference is there something i should be looking for, Im more than sure i can get this truck for >200$.

I have ordered an SC10 BL also but im thinking this deal is too good to pass up ? Im asking for pictures which i will post up here so you can tell me if it looks right... Im a little worries something might be wrong with it.


This is from the seller "It is now a VXL Rustler. It has the velineon system (brushless 3500 motor and esc) in it with anaconda tires in the back. Also, it has a wheelie bar and an RPM wide bumper. Some parts were dyed black(it doesnt come off) and mesh was glued to the body for a cool look. The car is waterproof. Out of all the times ive used it, ive only crashed probabley once and it wasnt even that bad. Nothing is broken on it.

cumquat

DONT DO IT! a used rustler ids a used rustler, regardless of upgrades. brand new they go for $300 and of you shop around you will probably find them for $250. dont pay a dime over $175, and thats if it's in pristine condition. if you really want it, offer $135 and take it from there.

Speed917

Guess i wont bother then he wont go any cheaper .. He just bought the motor and esc. for 150 haha guess his loss....

Thanks for the help !

BKoz559

My Feedback: (3)

I can't remember what your original budget was but, since you're leaning towards the SC10 take a look at the new SC10RS. It's 2WD brushless with upgraded JConcepts rear tires from the get go, water resistant electronics and a 2.4ghz radio system. My LHS had one and I was tempted to convert from my B4 to the SC10 since the rest of the world seems to stock SC parts instead of buggy parts. They were selling it for $300.

Foxy

I haven't read the thread at all, but I have two words for the OP based on the title of the thread...

Savage and Flux.

/thread