Notices
RC Car General Discussions This forum is for all general discussions related to radio control cars. Check forums below for more specific categories if applicable.

My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build

Old 12-08-2011, 08:13 AM
  #26  
The_Shark
Senior Member
 
The_Shark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plainfield, IL
Posts: 7,163
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build


ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM

sure is green

BTW almost chocked at my LHS the other day saw the stock ofna body sitting on the shelf for $45 I was like uhh I can buy the whole truck for $30 more new...
bodies are stupid expensive, thats why as of now both my 9.5 and t-maxx run naked-chassis, cant run like that at the track though!

reason being this truggy is not popular is because its OFNA, VERY underated company, all their stuff is well designed and overbuilt.
Old 12-08-2011, 09:21 AM
  #27  
SyCo_VeNoM
 
SyCo_VeNoM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: North West Indiana
Posts: 12,798
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build


ORIGINAL: The_Shark


ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM

sure is green

BTW almost chocked at my LHS the other day saw the stock ofna body sitting on the shelf for $45 I was like uhh I can buy the whole truck for $30 more new...
bodies are stupid expensive, thats why as of now both my 9.5 and t-maxx run naked-chassis, cant run like that at the track though!

reason being this truggy is not popular is because its OFNA, VERY underated company, all their stuff is well designed and overbuilt.
lol true
lets face it they took the parts off this, and slapped them on a longer chassis and had the SCRT10 which most people say it's very well built not knowing the parts came off a 1/12th scale truggy
I just think it was 1/12th scale nitro truggy wasn't very popular period seeing you don't see any others. Personally I'm more shocked ofna hasn't made a electric kit seeing to turn the crt electric you need the motor mount, and only 1 parts tree. To offset the cost they could stop supplying the short chassis, or even extend it a lil farther to a 1/10th scale truggy(or even buggy) length
Old 12-17-2011, 11:15 PM
  #28  
yakfish
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (27)
 
yakfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fairborn, OH
Posts: 2,439
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build

I just came in from running this truck tonight (1:30am). I finally have it all together how I want it. I was having issues with the stock steel spur gear eating thru my supply of aluminum threaded pinions. It chewed up 2 LST pinions and 2 HPI pinion. so I know I had to change it out.Plus I wanted more spur gear options. so I went with the plastic Revo spur gears. I got the revo spur fabricated to fit on the center diff, and my jaco foam wheels came in yesterday! So I though since in was this late at night and traffic is light I would take it out on the street and start to tune it a bit and see what its got!

I attached my Garmin Forerunner GPS and started tuning. I only got 4-5 passes in tonight as it was too cold to be out in the wind. It is only 35 degrees out and windy on top of that. when i first started running the engine wouldn't warm up so I brought it back in and wrapped some aluminum foil around the head and went back out. first passwas only about 45mph it was still too cool and way to rich so I let it warm up some more and leaned the lsn about an hour. next pass was better at 53mph and it was starting to warm up more but still barely over 200 degrees. I then leaned it out another hour and did one more pass at 62 mph. this is the fastest I had it yet! on the last pass it hit 67.4MPH [>:] and I had to cut it short since car pulled out onto the road. it was still climbing and it could have easily got into the 70's! Bottom line... this car is stupied fast!! but I don't think I will really see its full potential untill the spring and it starts to warm back up outside.

Also with the plastic Revo spur gear I've had no more issues chewing up either spurs or pinions.
Old 12-19-2011, 06:29 AM
  #29  
supertib
Senior Member
 
supertib's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: , MB, CANADA
Posts: 7,241
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build


ORIGINAL: yakfish

I just came in from running this truck tonight (1:30am). I finally have it all together how I want it. I was having issues with the stock steel spur gear eating thru my supply of aluminum threaded pinions. It chewed up 2 LST pinions and 2 HPI pinion. so I know I had to change it out.Plus I wanted more spur gear options. so I went with the plastic Revo spur gears. I got the revo spur fabricated to fit on the center diff, and my jaco foam wheels came in yesterday! So I though since in was this late at night and traffic is light I would take it out on the street and start to tune it a bit and see what its got!

I attached my Garmin Forerunner GPS and started tuning. I only got 4-5 passes in tonight as it was too cold to be out in the wind. It is only 35 degrees out and windy on top of that. when i first started running the engine wouldn't warm up so I brought it back in and wrapped some aluminum foil around the head and went back out. first passwas only about 45mph it was still too cool and way to rich so I let it warm up some more and leaned the lsn about an hour. next pass was better at 53mph and it was starting to warm up more but still barely over 200 degrees. I then leaned it out another hour and did one more pass at 62 mph. this is the fastest I had it yet! on the last pass it hit 67.4MPH [>:] and I had to cut it short since car pulled out onto the road. it was still climbing and it could have easily got into the 70's! Bottom line... this car is stupied fast!! but I don't think I will really see its full potential untill the spring and it starts to warm back up outside.

Also with the plastic Revo spur gear I've had no more issues chewing up either spurs or pinions.

thats awesome buddy....what gear ratios are you running É
Old 12-19-2011, 10:53 AM
  #30  
yakfish
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (27)
 
yakfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fairborn, OH
Posts: 2,439
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build

it has a 3.25 diff ratio with a 38T spur and a 25t clutch bell. I still need to play with the ratios. the engine isn't getting past 30,000 rpm yet.
Old 12-19-2011, 01:42 PM
  #31  
The_Shark
Senior Member
 
The_Shark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plainfield, IL
Posts: 7,163
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build

1speed jato killer? sweet.

i once had a BRUSHED coustom pan car that did (according to a calibrated venom speed meter) 72.Xmph, it was 8turn with somewhere near a 20t pinion and 55t spur, the chassis was just a piece of carbon fiber with a solid aluminum front axle and solid fixed rear axle the tires where 3 inches from touching eachother. sure it took a good distance to get up to speed and killed ESC's in no time flat, but MAN was it fast. hit a pothole and completly destroyed it.

next up is a dual outrunner bolink/jp digger or just a single 600watt outrunner. im looking for 80mph on 3s
Old 12-19-2011, 02:25 PM
  #32  
yakfish
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (27)
 
yakfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fairborn, OH
Posts: 2,439
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build


ORIGINAL: The_Shark

1speed jato killer? sweet.

i once had a BRUSHED coustom pan car that did (according to a calibrated venom speed meter) 72.Xmph, it was 8turn with somewhere near a 20t pinion and 55t spur, the chassis was just a piece of carbon fiber with a solid aluminum front axle and solid fixed rear axle the tires where 3 inches from touching eachother. sure it took a good distance to get up to speed and killed ESC's in no time flat, but MAN was it fast. hit a pothole and completly destroyed it.

next up is a dual outrunner bolink/jp digger or just a single 600watt outrunner. im looking for 80mph on 3s
I'm looking for 80 MPH with a Nitro Offroader!!! Single speed Jato killer...Oh yeah!!
Old 01-07-2012, 06:57 AM
  #33  
JRockZ
Senior Member
 
JRockZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build


ORIGINAL: yakfish

I'm looking for 80 MPH with a Nitro Offroader!!! Single speed Jato killer...Oh yeah!!
Yak thats killer! As you know per our PM's i now have a CRT.5 also and i did a brushless conversion, This thing is heavy IMHO i know the weight of a battery is certainly going to add quite a bit of weight, i just wonder how much of a difference there is between a brushless and a nitro set up there is. Looks like i may need to invest in some heavy duty big BIGbore front shocks!! If i gun mine get to full speed,,, coast,,, then hit the brakes full onthe front end hits the ground and scrapes almost till it stops. Also it jumps like a tank too!! Will you be offroading yours at all Yak??
I need to find (or create maybe) a CRT.5 Brushless ONLYpost so i dont disrupt yours lol. To bad people do not see the potential in this thing, othe rthan the shock/weight issue im havin i love it, looks killer and driver great with just general light bashing (except jumps).It goes great in the grass, better than a lawnmower:lol:

My friend at the LHS said W T F are you going to do with that heavy piece of crap?? Do you know you can't find partsfor that? I mean instant negativity what a creep huh? He also said that it will eat upesc's and motors, course ive only run mine maybe4 times so far but so far so good other than what i described above.

Is there a way toadjust the center diff? My frontsseem to put out about 80% of the power and imgetting some chatteringwhen the fronts loose traction in turnsand the tires balloon up
Old 01-07-2012, 07:07 AM
  #34  
The_Shark
Senior Member
 
The_Shark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plainfield, IL
Posts: 7,163
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build

weight is a good thing in my opinion, it keeps the car on the ground and keeps it flat through terrain, also the aluminum chassis is much stiffer than plastic/fiber.

ive had my fair share of feather-lights, and they all handled poorly (except my F1) compaired to my "heavy" nitro cars. it takes a little while longer for the weight to shift on a heavy rig, but they are much more sure footed.
Old 01-07-2012, 07:18 AM
  #35  
JRockZ
Senior Member
 
JRockZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build


ORIGINAL: The_Shark

weight is a good thing in my opinion, it keeps the car on the ground and keeps it flat through terrain, also the aluminum chassis is much stiffer than plastic/fiber.

ive had my fair share of feather-lights, and they all handled poorly (except my F1) compaired to my "heavy" nitro cars. it takes a little while longer for the weight to shift on a heavy rig, but they are much more sure footed.
I hear you there my friend!! I just dont like all the nose diving it does. I took my front shocks off this morning and verified they are working properly, i also adjusted them some more to the outer holes in the shock tower and inners on the a-arms seems like the geometry i sbetter now so this may help some, ive always been told to use the inner most holes for the tops of the shocks and the outer most for the bottoms but this time thinking maybe that is/was part of the problem, i'll go run it again in a lil while and see if i benifit any from it.
Old 01-07-2012, 07:18 AM
  #36  
Ttowntoolman
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Theresa, WI
Posts: 587
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build

Yakfish, looks great man........
Old 01-07-2012, 07:52 AM
  #37  
JRockZ
Senior Member
 
JRockZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build

Shocks problem solved!! Radio problem not! Suddenly lost reception ran full blast about 1000Ft untill crashing into a dumpster and wiping outall my hard earned work!! lol My ESC and battery took most teh damage as i only had the battery strapped in, when it hit the dumpster it took out the left front steering post where the inner tierod attaches ughhhhhh!! Back to square one! lol still getting diff chatter and a strange lock up at slow speed which is weird, may just be cogging but im not sure.

EDIT: 20 Mins later,, got her apart EZ fix the battery slid forward so hard it took out the left steering post on parts tree 40834, Called the LHS INSTOCK!!Sweet!! be up and running again in a few hrs and will have to configure a new battery mount as well as figure out W T F happend with my TX/Rx and why i lost reception, i didnt know you could with a 2.4ghz system
-Message edited by JRockZ 1/7/2012 4:21 PM -


Oh my,, not near as good as i thought,, Whats wrong with this picture??



Old 01-07-2012, 08:45 AM
  #38  
JRockZ
Senior Member
 
JRockZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build

I see there are two different center shaft set's, Im going to need the one's that have the extended front shaft for the extended chassis Im guessing its the 40920 part # from the looks of the pics BUT they dont say (on e slay) which are wich they just show milimeters and i have no way of measuring them,, man i hope the LHS has some in stock too Sheesh!! seriously!!!
im only running a NiMh battery and i would guestimate my top speed at only about 27-32Mph at most are these shafts made of butter lol Im seriously hoping theres no diff damage too if there is this things going in the trash, its only 2 days old :cry: :cry:
Old 01-07-2012, 11:17 AM
  #39  
yakfish
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (27)
 
yakfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fairborn, OH
Posts: 2,439
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build

If you can't find replacedment drive shafts you can just bend thenm back to shape. you should be good to go.
Old 01-07-2012, 11:51 AM
  #40  
JRockZ
Senior Member
 
JRockZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build


ORIGINAL: yakfish

If you can't find replacedment drive shafts you can just bend thenm back to shape. you should be good to go.
Hahaha right bend them back, they look a little to far gone for that don'tcha think? Ive not yet pulled them out, just got the steering post once i get that done then ill pull the shafts and see how bad they really are or if there is any more damage.
Old 01-07-2012, 12:36 PM
  #41  
SyCo_VeNoM
 
SyCo_VeNoM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: North West Indiana
Posts: 12,798
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build

how bad did you bend that chassis plate?
Old 01-07-2012, 02:03 PM
  #42  
JRockZ
Senior Member
 
JRockZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build


ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM

how bad did you bend that chassis plate?
The chassis plate doesnt seem to be bent at all, so far ive been able to replace everything and all fits back together perfect,, I set it down on a counter and inspected from all angles and i see no visable chassis bending, It hit high because the dumpster curves at the bottom so the upper parts took the brunt of the damage, still working on, new way to mount the battery, i shouldve just bought the conversion kit but oh well i didnt lol
Old 01-07-2012, 02:12 PM
  #43  
Ttam Says Blarg
 
Ttam Says Blarg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Lake Arrowhead, CA
Posts: 5,826
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build

Looks pretty darn sweet yakfish!
Old 01-07-2012, 06:53 PM
  #44  
The_Shark
Senior Member
 
The_Shark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Plainfield, IL
Posts: 7,163
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build


ORIGINAL: JRockZ


ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM

how bad did you bend that chassis plate?
The chassis plate doesnt seem to be bent at all, so far ive been able to replace everything and all fits back together perfect,, I set it down on a counter and inspected from all angles and i see no visable chassis bending, It hit high because the dumpster curves at the bottom so the upper parts took the brunt of the damage, still working on, new way to mount the battery, i shouldve just bought the conversion kit but oh well i didnt lol
pure ofna man! they are TANKS, im sure you could win races simply by smashing into everyone!

your actually better off with twisted shafts, would rather have the shafts warp to nothing than rebuild all the diffs

all the time having the 9.5 ive broken a drive shaft, ball cup and bent a shock tower, why? running through the field as the right suspension arm found a water valve. and ive made this thing tumble-weed land upside down ect.
Old 01-07-2012, 07:08 PM
  #45  
JRockZ
Senior Member
 
JRockZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build


ORIGINAL: The_Shark
pure ofna man! they are TANKS, im sure you could win races simply by smashing into everyone!

your actually better off with twisted shafts, would rather have the shafts warp to nothing than rebuild all the diffs

all the time having the 9.5 ive broken a drive shaft, ball cup and bent a shock tower, why? running through the field as the right suspension arm found a water valve. and ive made this thing tumble-weed land upside down ect.
Ha hahaha, Like i said it took a higher hit, funny the body postsdidnt break the main damage was from my faulty battery hold down so totally my fault!! I have it all back together and a better way of holding the battery down, took it out for a radio test and had no issues what so ever TX/RX wise. I bent the shafts back but not in a good way, i dont have a vise, my friends brilliant idea was lay it on the concrete and hammer the high parts back with a hammer lol well that worrked to a point, the drive line is way out of whack now and it vibrates like a raped ape lol.
I think if im mellow with it till new ones arrive everything should be fine but its tuff to not whamp on it! I still need to figure out which Shaft parts will work i know the rear is 82.5 MM but not sure if i need the #40920 60/82.5mm or the #40822 44/82.5mm
I emailed Ofnadave on Ebay i'm sure he will give me a good answer!! Or so i hope but if anyone is using the extended chassis and knows what i need or could measue for me i'd much appreciate it!!
Man what a horrid day!! i just hope tomorrow goes better bashing at the LHS
Old 01-07-2012, 08:29 PM
  #46  
yakfish
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (27)
 
yakfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fairborn, OH
Posts: 2,439
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build


ORIGINAL: JRockZ


ORIGINAL: The_Shark
pure ofna man! they are TANKS, im sure you could win races simply by smashing into everyone!

your actually better off with twisted shafts, would rather have the shafts warp to nothing than rebuild all the diffs

all the time having the 9.5 ive broken a drive shaft, ball cup and bent a shock tower, why? running through the field as the right suspension arm found a water valve. and ive made this thing tumble-weed land upside down ect.
Ha hahaha, Like i said it took a higher hit, funny the body posts didnt break the main damage was from my faulty battery hold down so totally my fault!! I have it all back together and a better way of holding the battery down, took it out for a radio test and had no issues what so ever TX/RX wise. I bent the shafts back but not in a good way, i dont have a vise, my friends brilliant idea was lay it on the concrete and hammer the high parts back with a hammer lol well that worrked to a point, the drive line is way out of whack now and it vibrates like a raped ape lol.
I think if im mellow with it till new ones arrive everything should be fine but its tuff to not whamp on it! I still need to figure out which Shaft parts will work i know the rear is 82.5 MM but not sure if i need the #40920 60/82.5mm or the #40822 44/82.5mm
I emailed Ofnadave on Ebay i'm sure he will give me a good answer!! Or so i hope but if anyone is using the extended chassis and knows what i need or could measue for me i'd much appreciate it!!
Man what a horrid day!! i just hope tomorrow goes better bashing at the LHS
you want the 40920. it fits the crt.5 pro which is the extended chassis.
Old 01-08-2012, 10:57 AM
  #47  
SyCo_VeNoM
 
SyCo_VeNoM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: North West Indiana
Posts: 12,798
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build


ORIGINAL: JRockZ


ORIGINAL: The_Shark
pure ofna man! they are TANKS, im sure you could win races simply by smashing into everyone!

your actually better off with twisted shafts, would rather have the shafts warp to nothing than rebuild all the diffs

all the time having the 9.5 ive broken a drive shaft, ball cup and bent a shock tower, why? running through the field as the right suspension arm found a water valve. and ive made this thing tumble-weed land upside down ect.
Ha hahaha, Like i said it took a higher hit, funny the body posts didnt break the main damage was from my faulty battery hold down so totally my fault!! I have it all back together and a better way of holding the battery down, took it out for a radio test and had no issues what so ever TX/RX wise. I bent the shafts back but not in a good way, i dont have a vise, my friends brilliant idea was lay it on the concrete and hammer the high parts back with a hammer lol well that worrked to a point, the drive line is way out of whack now and it vibrates like a raped ape lol.
I think if im mellow with it till new ones arrive everything should be fine but its tuff to not whamp on it! I still need to figure out which Shaft parts will work i know the rear is 82.5 MM but not sure if i need the #40920 60/82.5mm or the #40822 44/82.5mm
I emailed Ofnadave on Ebay i'm sure he will give me a good answer!! Or so i hope but if anyone is using the extended chassis and knows what i need or could measue for me i'd much appreciate it!!
Man what a horrid day!! i just hope tomorrow goes better bashing at the LHS
ahh from how the 2 were bent it looks like it (as one of he ex LHS workers would put it) Taco'd seeing both were warped

there's a electric conversion kit?
I just got the battery tree off ofna and drilled 3 holes to mount mine(used to have it extremely ghetto prior)
Old 01-08-2012, 09:12 PM
  #48  
JRockZ
Senior Member
 
JRockZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build

Hey SyCo_VeNoM
Taco Trucks are good right?? Me likes Taco and not just the truck or the food either!! Ha!

Hey guys seriously i want to find out what i can do about getting more power to my rear wheels, When i punch this thing, Taco'ed shafts and all (maybe its the crappy tires i have ) almost immediatley the front tires balloon up as it rips away from me, when im coming out of a turn also which ever front wheel has the least amount of traction will do the same thing, its like constantly ballooning the tires but ony the fronts, it is kinda cool but surley there must be a way of preventing this??

I found some nice big big bore plastic bodiedwith aluminum capsshocks today for $9 at my LHS, they are Redcat shocks but i have no clue from or for what car/truck however huge improvement on the front suspension.

I also had a few screws fall out in my front hubs today too, i'd guess this is common and im sure i read somewhere about the hubs being a problem anyone else have this happen? Yak?? I replaced them and used a dab of light thread lock on the very tips where they grab into the weird little nuts inside the C-hubs but i fear this happening again, so is aluminum hubs the fix maybe?

And last thing i need some help with is Ive never had Lipo batteries b4, Im going to be getting 2 Gens Ace 5000mah 40c 2S, the charger i have does not have a balance option so i will need a balancer thingy to plug in can anyone suggest a decent inexpensive one?

Thanks!!
Old 01-08-2012, 09:45 PM
  #49  
ThunderbirdJunkie
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
 
ThunderbirdJunkie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Norwood, OH
Posts: 22,101
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build

Jrock, put thicker oil in the center diff. 10k-30k has always worked well for ThunderbirdJunkie's bashers in general.
Old 01-08-2012, 11:44 PM
  #50  
yakfish
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (27)
 
yakfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fairborn, OH
Posts: 2,439
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: My 1/12 Jammin CRT.5 big block build


ORIGINAL: JRockZ

I also had a few screws fall out in my front hubs today too, i'd guess this is common and im sure i read somewhere about the hubs being a problem anyone else have this happen? Yak?? I replaced them and used a dab of light thread lock on the very tips where they grab into the weird little nuts inside the C-hubs but i fear this happening again, so is aluminum hubs the fix maybe?
Thanks!!
Yes i had the same problem with those screw falling out. fortunantly I had extras on hand and some locktight fixed the problem for me. the forst one fell out on just my second run with the truck. ponce I fixed it and went back out 2 minutes later I had the same problem on the other side. I should have just locktighted them both at the same time but i was too lazy. but since adding the locktight there has been no mre issues with screws loosening.


ORIGINAL: ThunderbirdJunkie
Jrock, put thicker oil in the center diff. 10k-30k has always worked well for ThunderbirdJunkie's bashers in general.

ThunderbirdJunkie is right. you need to add shock oil to your center diff. from the factory it just has grease in it and very little of it. I didn't have any diff oil when I put mine together so I used some of the 50 weight shock oil I had left from building the shocks and it has been fine so far but I have mine geared so high that there isn't enough bottom end torque to lift the front wheels enough to really notice if the oil weight needs adjustment. but I would say if you went with oil between 5K and 10K you would be in good shape. the thicker oil TBJ suggested will work as well, but as you increase the weight you will go closer to a locked center diff.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.