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RedCat Racing Body Question

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Old 01-14-2012, 09:43 PM
  #1
hitmanre
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Default RedCat Racing Body Question

Hello friends

I am getting this:
http://www.amazon.com/LIGHTNING-DRIF...6606001&sr=8-3

I was wondering if i could change the body with another body of the same size like this for example
http://www.amazon.com/Prova-Impreza-...6606160&sr=1-8

Thank you friend!
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Old 01-15-2012, 03:54 AM
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Haddi Taha
 
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Default RE: RedCat Racing Body Question


Quote:
ORIGINAL: hitmanre

Hello friends

I am getting this:
http://www.amazon.com/LIGHTNING-DRIF...6606001&sr=8-3

I was wondering if i could change the body with another body of the same size like this for example
http://www.amazon.com/Prova-Impreza-...6606160&sr=1-8

Thank you friend!
All 1/10 touring electric car shells will fit with the exception of some of Tamiya's low nose shells that were made for the cars with IFS suspension setup and scale bodies from hpi cup racer.

What you have there is a 200mm shell, this was made for 1/10 nitro touring cars, you need a 190mm electric car shell. You can get that shell to fit but you would have to make your car 10mm wider.

I recommend a Tamiya TA05v.2 or Tamiya TB03 or Team Associated TC3 or Team Associated TC4 over that car.

I decided to try a hsp buggy (exact same car) and it was good for a week but after that it was shocking, you couldn't do much other than drive in circles otherwise it will break on small jumps or crashes. I don't really like cheap oem cars anymore, before you know it you have paid so much money in parts that you could've of bought a better car in the first place. My Tamiya cars have been good to me so thats why I recommend them

but thats just my opinion, you cash, spend it how you like.

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Old 01-16-2012, 09:09 PM
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Default RE: RedCat Racing Body Question

actually, da redcat lightnin drift uses a 200mm body. not 190mm.
evn tho 190mm is standerd 1/10 electric touring car fare, 190mm body will b 2 narrow 4 da redcat lightnin.



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Old 01-16-2012, 09:13 PM
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Default RE: RedCat Racing Body Question

& da redcat lightnin is a quality piece of machinery dat is definetly worth da money. xerxes shimmd his diffs, spoold his reer, & got a set of rubber radial tires. now its wicked. 40mph
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Old 01-17-2012, 03:40 AM
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Default RE: RedCat Racing Body Question


Quote:
ORIGINAL: xerxes

& da redcat lightnin is a quality piece of machinery dat is definetly worth da money. xerxes shimmd his diffs, spoold his reer, & got a set of rubber radial tires. now its wicked. 40mph
It handles no where near as good as my Tamiya TB03 and the electronics that come with it suck.

If you put a redcat lightning and a Tamiya TB03/TA05 next to each other, you woudn't call the redcat a quality piece of machinery, its designed to be cheap produced, not to handle well

why would you lock the rear diffs if your not drifting, I bought the front locked diff for my Tamiya TB03 and most people I know lock ther front for touring cars (except drifting)




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Old 01-17-2012, 08:19 AM
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Default RE: RedCat Racing Body Question

Quote:
ORIGINAL: Haddi Taha


Quote:
ORIGINAL: xerxes

& da redcat lightnin is a quality piece of machinery dat is definetly worth da money. xerxes shimmd his diffs, spoold his reer, & got a set of rubber radial tires. now its wicked. 40mph
It handles no where near as good as my Tamiya TB03 and the electronics that come with it suck.
If you put a redcat lightning and a Tamiya TB03/TA05 next to each other, you woudn't call the redcat a quality piece of machinery, its designed to be cheap produced, not to handle well

why would you lock the rear diffs if your not drifting, I bought the front locked diff for my Tamiya TB03 and most people I know lock ther front for touring cars (except drifting)




I agree on that point, but try to buy the tamiya for $130 shipped RTR....aint gonna happen.

The lightning is a simple shaft driven 4wd chassis. There is nothing wrong with the chassis layout, or the parts used. Yes, the electronics are cheap, but you could upgrade and still spend less than for a tamiya.
Granted, the lightning will never handle like most tamiyas....but then it wasnt meant to! It is a budget minded, driveway running, basic drifting machine....which it does very well at.

I had the lightning epx pro....brushless version. I ran that car with 2 and 3s lipos...and I jumped it off ramps ect. Never broke anything other than a spur gear now and then. For a sub $200 car that can hit 50+mph on a 3s lipo it was very cool. I wish I hadnt ever sold it, and will most likely buy a new one next spring.

Heck, there is a vid on youtube of a lightning with a mamba system doing 112MPH in a parking lot!

But if you want a Very scale car, that will handle good enough for racing, then yes you should get a tamiya. But for parking lot bashing and drifting the lightning is a good fit.

OH, and the lightning is 200mm. a 190mm could be used, but the wheel will stick out from the body some and you may need to have the body sit a tad high so the front tires can turn without hitting the body.
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Old 01-17-2012, 12:22 PM
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Default RE: RedCat Racing Body Question


Quote:
ORIGINAL: nitrosportsandrunner

Quote:
ORIGINAL: Haddi Taha


Quote:
ORIGINAL: xerxes

& da redcat lightnin is a quality piece of machinery dat is definetly worth da money. xerxes shimmd his diffs, spoold his reer, & got a set of rubber radial tires. now its wicked. 40mph
It handles no where near as good as my Tamiya TB03 and the electronics that come with it suck.
If you put a redcat lightning and a Tamiya TB03/TA05 next to each other, you woudn't call the redcat a quality piece of machinery, its designed to be cheap produced, not to handle well

why would you lock the rear diffs if your not drifting, I bought the front locked diff for my Tamiya TB03 and most people I know lock ther front for touring cars (except drifting)




I agree on that point, but try to buy the tamiya for $130 shipped RTR....aint gonna happen.

The lightning is a simple shaft driven 4wd chassis. There is nothing wrong with the chassis layout, or the parts used. Yes, the electronics are cheap, but you could upgrade and still spend less than for a tamiya.
Granted, the lightning will never handle like most tamiyas....but then it wasnt meant to! It is a budget minded, driveway running, basic drifting machine....which it does very well at.

I had the lightning epx pro....brushless version. I ran that car with 2 and 3s lipos...and I jumped it off ramps ect. Never broke anything other than a spur gear now and then. For a sub $200 car that can hit 50+mph on a 3s lipo it was very cool. I wish I hadnt ever sold it, and will most likely buy a new one next spring.

Heck, there is a vid on youtube of a lightning with a mamba system doing 112MPH in a parking lot!

But if you want a Very scale car, that will handle good enough for racing, then yes you should get a tamiya. But for parking lot bashing and drifting the lightning is a good fit.

OH, and the lightning is 200mm. a 190mm could be used, but the wheel will stick out from the body some and you may need to have the body sit a tad high so the front tires can turn without hitting the body.
For the money its all right but if you can spend more than better to get a Tamiya. You can't find a Tamiya for $130 RTR, my TB03 costed $150 (special, normally $200) and then $100 for Radio, Receiver, Servo and batterie and I put $100 in upgrades to make it even a better racer plus $100 for a Hobbywing Brushless Motor and ESC to propel it to $50-55mph. So your looking at $450-$500 for a very good touring car that is fast and very track worthy

Some people dont want to pay $350+ on a touring car, then the Redcat is your only option for a car where you can find parts for easily and is pretty descent. I'm pretty sure the onroad version will be better than my buggy as you don't jump onroads lol

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Old 01-17-2012, 01:11 PM
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Default RE: RedCat Racing Body Question

i have had the lightning, tornado and volcano...all brushless versions. the buggy and car hold up the best. shorter arms, smaller tires and such are less likely to break than the volcano's MT tires and longer arms.
my tornado was simply awsome, that buggy took alot of abuse. the stock shock towers did bend, and i upgraded. other than that the only issue was the wing mounts, but i jumped that buggy alot and often landed hard on the wing.

tamiya has some really nice onroads...and then some that are no better IMO than the redcat's chassis. the tt-01 is no stronger or better handling than the redcat. granted, the tamiya has more upgrade options.

personally, i prefer the idea of getting the cheap but capable chassis and then putting a quality (probly tamiya) body on it...since the redcat comes with a very generic body.
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Old 01-17-2012, 07:46 PM
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Default RE: RedCat Racing Body Question


Quote:
ORIGINAL: nitrosportsandrunner

i have had the lightning, tornado and volcano...all brushless versions. the buggy and car hold up the best. shorter arms, smaller tires and such are less likely to break than the volcano's MT tires and longer arms.
my tornado was simply awsome, that buggy took alot of abuse. the stock shock towers did bend, and i upgraded. other than that the only issue was the wing mounts, but i jumped that buggy alot and often landed hard on the wing.

tamiya has some really nice onroads...and then some that are no better IMO than the redcat's chassis. the tt-01 is no stronger or better handling than the redcat. granted, the tamiya has more upgrade options.

personally, i prefer the idea of getting the cheap but capable chassis and then putting a quality (probly tamiya) body on it...since the redcat comes with a very generic body.
The Tamiya TT01e doesn't handle well at all and can only hand a mild brushless on 2s. I was refering to the Ta05v.2 and TB03. They both have TRF416 style suspension (except they have ifs (inboard front shocks for low nose shells) at the front which you can change to standup for easier tuning)

The TB03 has the tbevoV style drivetrain (plastic diff halves are the only thing you really need to upgrade)

ta05v.2 has a belt drive system similar to the trf416 but maybe the pulleys annd diff gears are different (different internal ratio)

I suggest you check the 2 cars out, they are in kit form only so if you don't like building it (which I don't understand why you wouldn't want to build) then its too bad

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Old 01-17-2012, 07:50 PM
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Default RE: RedCat Racing Body Question

last pic is the TB03r which comes with 20 hopups but no tires, motor or shell
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:57 AM
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Default RE: RedCat Racing Body Question


Quote:
ORIGINAL: Haddi Taha


Quote:
ORIGINAL: xerxes

& da redcat lightnin is a quality piece of machinery dat is definetly worth da money. xerxes shimmd his diffs, spoold his reer, & got a set of rubber radial tires. now its wicked. 40mph
It handles no where near as good as my Tamiya TB03 and the electronics that come with it suck.

If you put a redcat lightning and a Tamiya TB03/TA05 next to each other, you woudn't call the redcat a quality piece of machinery, its designed to be cheap produced, not to handle well

why would you lock the rear diffs if your not drifting, I bought the front locked diff for my Tamiya TB03 and most people I know lock ther front for touring cars (except drifting)




xerxes drifts. not competitivly. rubbr radial tires meena he can drive normaly. lockd diff meens dat driftn is jus 1 fingr movment away.
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:57 PM
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Default RE: RedCat Racing Body Question


Quote:
ORIGINAL: xerxes


Quote:
ORIGINAL: Haddi Taha


Quote:
ORIGINAL: xerxes

& da redcat lightnin is a quality piece of machinery dat is definetly worth da money. xerxes shimmd his diffs, spoold his reer, & got a set of rubber radial tires. now its wicked. 40mph
It handles no where near as good as my Tamiya TB03 and the electronics that come with it suck.

If you put a redcat lightning and a Tamiya TB03/TA05 next to each other, you woudn't call the redcat a quality piece of machinery, its designed to be cheap produced, not to handle well

why would you lock the rear diffs if your not drifting, I bought the front locked diff for my Tamiya TB03 and most people I know lock ther front for touring cars (except drifting)




xerxes drifts. not competitivly. rubbr radial tires meena he can drive normaly. lockd diff meens dat driftn is jus 1 fingr movment away.
Personally I would've used very hard diff oil in the rear (or tighten it more if its a ball diff) and put drift tires on then drift but I find drifting a bit boring so I wouldn't buy a drift only car.


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