JH313

Edit:After 4 years with my Nitro Stampede I think it is time for something new. After I upgraded the .15 to 2.5r, I have spent more time on the bench then driving. I was wondering what would make a great Truck. My driving is all in my yard (I don't consider it bashing because my highest jump is off the curb) and I want something with more power and agility. My budget is about $350 max. I am leaving the monster trucks in favor of a short course or stadium truck. The four trucks I have in mind are: HPI Firestorm, HPI MT2, Ofna Hyper 10sc and Ofna Jammin SCRT10, all nitro. I would prefer the 4wd, but if the firestorm is that much better I would consider it. What is the difference between the Hyper and the Jammin? In those two truck manuals, it has a major assembly including the diffs and such. Yet in the OFNA video it has it already assembled? How does it arrive? Also, what are the differences between stadium truck and Short Course? Any info is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Jacob
(I finally decided against the buggy)
(Originally in Stadium Trucks but reposted for more exposure and to different types of trucks).

The_Shark

1/8 truggie, buggie, best bang for your buck, OFNA makes a very well made, tough product a rtr can run you well under $400 bones.

get a buggie and get some meaty, spikey tires and rip it up!

oh yeah, the reason why it was on the bench is because it could barely handle the .15 let alone 2.5, and a .21 buggy motor will rip the 2.5 a new one, even the ofna force .28 will really move out, SOOO much faster (so much)

yakfish

My Feedback: (27)

ofna hyper 7. great buggy, built like a tank and well within your budget.

phmaximus

Thumbs up for hyper 7's here, very durable, they normally ware out pars before braking them....

SyCo_VeNoM

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYLK1&P=7
get some better servos and a cheap 2.4ghz radio
if you want a truck take off the wing, and fling a SC truck body on it

JH313

Why a buggy? I thought they were better for tracks than bashing around in grass? I am probably wrong, but am curious all the same. How would it compare to the short course and stadium trucks? Thanks and at this point everything is better than my benched stampede.

JH313

Also, what is difference between X1X and Hyper 7?

SyCo_VeNoM

different manufacturer
Hyper 7 is by hobao x1x is by hongnor OFNA is only the US distributor.
Personally I bought the x1x over the hyper 7 mainly cause the engine in it. I had good luck with the Force .28's that come in the x1x. Also one guy I talked to that owned both said the x1x was a little bit more durable than the hyper 7 in his opinion (he owned both).

I own the x1x it doesn't go through parts very often. Actually mine is mostly stock. I only added in a CNC'd center brace set to make it a bit more rigid.

As for comparing vs ST's, and SCT's have a MT2 ST and since I got the buggy I haven't used it once since I got the x1x cause the buggy can do everything the ST can do, and not break.

As for short course they have the exact same wheelbase so their handling is pretty similar. If you look you can find tutorials on how easy it is to convert 1/10th scale SCT's into 1/8th buggy.

yakfish

My Feedback: (27)

They are very similar. I have owned both and both were very good. the differences between them are very small but the I felt the Hyper 7 was a bit stronger and the X1X handled a little better. But you really can't go wrong with either one of them!

yakfish

My Feedback: (27)

I have just been looking up these two buggys and comparing features on them again. If you are looking to buy one of the Amain and Tower both have the Hyper 7 for $299. Tower also has the X1X for $389 whiule Amain has it for $299. Just thought I would let you know just in case you descided to go with the X1X doin't get it from tower! Also since the two buggys are so close performance wise I would probably go with the Hyper 7 since it comes with a 2.4Ghz radio system while the X1X is still running what looks like an old AM radio system.

SyCo_VeNoM

wow good catch no wonder tower has them in stock always
When I made the post with towers link I was tired and misread the 3 as a 2

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-4WD-RTR-Buggy

The_Shark

the 9.5 is based off the x1x (actually vice versa) and i love my ofna, it was good proforming stock, and incredibly tough, a few upgrades and its a great rig.

the hyper is based more on new machines, the X1X is based on a dated, but proven design.

newer isnt always better.

elmer84

Caster Racing has a nice 1/8th lineup, prices are great, they have RTRs and pro kits

JH313

Please re-read original post.

JH313

so MT2 VS Hyper SC. opinions?

yakfish

My Feedback: (27)

Hyper SC

SyCo_VeNoM

get the HPI bullet the MT2 is on its way to being discontinued if you want a ST

378

My Feedback: (4)

I'd go for the Hyper 10SC, as it's one of three major brand short course trucks that use fuel to move about. Probably the one I'd buy too. Get the 80% model and swap your engine and radio gear from the 'Pede, just to make getting it going quick and easy. No need to break anything in.

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

Disagreed; if he has a 2.5 he'll need some goofy stuff to make the engine actually work in the Hyper10 SC. Mostly the header, which will be difficult to source for the 2.5-specific exhaust port (unless somebody knows of a way to use a std rear exhaust header on the 2.5? Traxxas makes a spring-type header but it still uses the O-ring ITBJRC and that probably won't seal properly with a normal rear exhaust header) and Traxxas' pilot shaft is wonky ITBJRC and won't accept the normal 1/8 scale type clutch that's used on this truck.

JH313

I ultimately decided to buy the Hyper 10SC. Thanks everyone for the great advice. Does anyone have any tips for the break in? The manual only mentions 2 tanks, the first one idling. I think I will do a shortened, Traxxas break in though. My first tank I will just idle (as per instructions) to allow the bearings and such to break in. I will then do a tank smoothly going from stopped to 1/2 throttle and back at different rates, probably in the street. For the third and final break in, I will do slowly to full throttle and back, but probably in the grass. I will keep the body on due to the fact we are between upper 40's and lower 50's.
Any other advice greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jacob

378

My Feedback: (4)

Try this instead. I used it on my OS 18 CV-RX, and that engine still runs like a top three gallons later.


Step 1: Set carb to break-in settings, fill the tank to the brim, and find a nice, level, smooth surface. A paved parking lot works best, but if that's unavailable, perhaps you can run the bases at a baseball stadium instead. Keep it out of the grass though, the engine won't be making enough power to pull the truck through it during break-in.
Step 2: Start the engine. Get it to run without the glow ignitor installed, and get it up to 200ºF at the minimum. You may lean the HSN up to a quarter turn to facilitate this, I have to do about that much on my engine. Once you have it where it will stay running without the ignitor, leave the carb settings alone, you do want it to be rich at this point. Just, not too rich.
Step 3: Start driving in figure eights, up to quarter throttle. Be gentle, with it this rich sudden throttle inputs will kill it. Apply as much brake as you do throttle. This seats the entire chassis in, not just the engine, and it lets you adjust the linkages without having to keep track of a ballistic missile. Take care to ensure the engine stays above 200 degrees, running with the body on may actually be a good idea in 40-50 degree weather.
Step 4: Burn 90% of the tank through the engine.
Step 5: Shut engine down by plugging the exhaust or by stopping the flywheel with a screwdriver handle or tip of a heavy rubber shoe. DO NOT use your thumb or anything metallic, as doing so can and will very painfully remove your fingerprint and/or part of the flywheel. Both are bad. Plastic and rubber objects are okay, they will be damaged instead of your finger or the flywheel.
Step 6: Allow engine to cool fully. Make sure you set the piston to bottom dead center as well, it might get stuck if it's allowed to stay at TDC while the engine cools. Doing this is easy, gently turn it over and you can feel the compression. Pull it through that, and when it gets easy to turn, leave it here.
Step 7. Revert to Step 2 and repeat two more times, then proceed to step 8.
Step 8: Revert to Step 2. However, modify step three, now you're rolling into half throttle. Do this for two tanks, then proceed to step 9.
Step 9: Revert to 2, mod step three. You can now go WOT. Do this for one tank.
Step 10: Install a fresh glow plug, as break-in is notoriously hard on plugs. Congrats, engine's broken in, time to tune it for power and start carving donuts!


Breaking it in via this method should take about an hour and a half or so. Be sure to let the engine cool fully between each tank.

Beyond this point I do advise you hold back on the long, drawn out WOT blasts for another couple of quarts, as the engine will continue to loosen up over time. You'll notice it both when starting and the power output, which will steadily increase. But, at the same time, you don't need to be careful with it either, feel free to jam the throttle on and let it throw rooster tails. Once you've got half a gallon on the engine it's broken in fully and you're free to let it scream as long as the radio will allow.

JH313

378: Great advice, I think I have come up with my solution:
Tank 1:Get to idle without igniter and allow to idle for 1 full tank.
Tank 2rive circles and figure 8's on pavement at about 1/4 throttle, alternating between short periods of throttle and long periods of throttle.
Tank 3:Repeat tank 1 but at 1/2 throttle.
Tank 4:Repeat Tank 2 but with 3/4 throttle.
Tank 5rive circles and figure 8's on pavement (or grass) at WOT alternating between short burst of throttle and longer times of throttle, lean 1/8 turn if necessary.
Tank 6 and up: Have fun!
I think this is a little overkill as I do very little WOT as it is, distance of my yard max. Also, as I will need to get used to handling I will take it a little slow in the beginning. I also tend to keep my engine a little rich as I only bash.
Thanks for all of the advice, and anymore welcome.

378

My Feedback: (4)

Don't idle the engine. It won't do you any good and it may not get warmed up sufficiently. You don't really want the engine idling long at all at this point, indeed, it's not going to idle very long. It might stay running for 15 seconds before getting unstable and stalling. The rest of that is close enough and will do just fine.


Just start driving it the moment it will stay running without the ignitor attached. You're breaking in more than just the engine, and it's FAR easier to keep the engine temps up if you have a load on the engine.


Future WOT plans don't make much of a difference here. How you treat the engine in it's first ten tanks of life determine how long that engine lives. Using a heat cycle method like the one I listed is a sure-fire way to get a good, long, healthy life out of it. Certainly worked well for me, my engine broken in using it is still running beautifully after three gallons.

JH313

I have 2 tanks of fuel through my truck, but now I am having problems. The engine will start and idle, but one even a blip of throttle is added, it cuts out. It sounds as if it is bogging down and then cutting. This happens both with and without the igniter. There is also a large amount of fuel coming through, is it too rich? Also, does anyone know if the Thunder Tiger R2 glow plug will work with the .18. Thanks for the help.

echthelion

answered your own question its to rich lean it up alittle. im guessing your keeping it at stock needle settings for breakin. dont worry about keeping it there you wont hurt anything by leaning it out alittle to complete your breakin. if its to rich when your breaking it in you wont reach 210 temp give or take. and then your realy not doing your engine anygood