cumminspower5.9

My Feedback: (4)

So guys, I'm pretty sure I'm annoying you with all my buggy questions, and I definitely appreciate it. But I have changed my mind on the Associated RC8.2e. I can't justify spending over $600 on the car and batteries when I have a baby due here in the next week. I have chosen to get the OFNALx2e. It definitely looks like a sharp buggy, no doubt. And the price is definitely cheaper.I will go ahead and throw some Badlands on it for offrad use, plus that will increase the ride height a bit. Got a few questions on it as I have no knowledge of OFNA products. Any instant upgrades I should get for this right out of the box? And I noticed it has2 battery connectors to the ESC. Can I get a 2-1 connector? I was planning on running one 4s battery instead of two 2s lipos.

Haddi Taha

Not annoying me The OFNA Ultra LX2E is a great buggy for bashing. Pyromatic117 has one and if he sees this thread, I'm sure he will tell you about his experience with it. Foxy recommends this one too. Not much that can go wrong, its a ofna so its simple and tough. Are you getting the kit or RTR? The RTR can handle 4s lipo max. If you want to run a single 4s then just change the plug but cut the 2 battery plug things it comes with in a way that you can turn it into a adapter incase you want to run 2 2s packs or 2 3s packs later down the road.

If you plan to ever run 5s or 6s make sure you get the kit so you don't have to buy a motor/esc you don't need, and if you have a radio, receiver, servo laying around then you save more money. You also get to paint the shell your way There is a slight possiblity that OFNA warehouse might in a 1/100000 chance have spares for this cars (its an ofna right?)

Foxy

Agreed, still a sound choice. What I would do with the ESC for a single battery is simply cut the two connectors off (you'll be left with just two wires) and solder an ultra deans on. Simples.

The only complaint I have heard about that car is that with EXTREME bashing (big jumps and roof landings, etc), the shock towers are bendy. To be honest, the stock towers are so cheap, I wouldn't bother with an upgrade. I'd just keep straighteneing them until they became soft, then replace with another stock item. Another trick I've heard is using the stock stamped aluminum ones with a carbon fiber one stuck together with epoxy. This is an old trick for some of the older buggies, I'm not even sure if its feasible for the LX, but like I say, just straighten the stock ones IF you ever manage to bend them, it's no biggie. You could always go for the fat expensive alloy ones some time down the line, but at the end of the day, they will still bend if you land on them from 15 feet at speed.

Some people are paranoid about the plastic rear brace (Pyromatic himself included), but don't be too tempted to try to 'solve' that, as particularly on the rough stuff, the plastic brace gives good chassis flex which is very beneficial to handling. Consider that almost all Xray cars are supplied with composite braces these days, and even those that are not, you will often find that racers have swapped them to composite for racing. Pyromatic installed a full alloy top deck to his, which I'm sure gives him peace of mind, but is not something that I would feel necessary.

cumminspower5.9

My Feedback: (4)

Awesome. Glad there is still some good views of this buggy. I don't really do "EXTREME" bashing per say. The most bashin I do is go to the BMX track and run the track, but I wouldn't necessarily call that bashing since I'm not out to just beat it up lol. I plan to get the RTR version. I'm hoping that 4s will be enough for me, cause in all honesty, my Flux XS on 2s is a lot of fun for me. On 3s, it's too powerful cause you cannot control it. I want to get the RTR as I don't have spare RC part slying around. If I do plan to upgrade and go 6s, I'll just get the motor/esc combo Foxy pointed out when I was first looking for a buggy. I heard the steering servos are crap on these. Is this true?

Foxy

Show me an RTR, I'll show you a crap steering servo.

johndavis

steering servo  i got a lx 1  and the sterring servo was the first thing to go wrong

johndavis

lol , foxy posted the same time i did

cumminspower5.9

My Feedback: (4)

Wait what? lol

Foxy

You heard.

cumminspower5.9

My Feedback: (4)

So all RTR servos are junk pretty much?

Foxy

Yup.

cumminspower5.9

My Feedback: (4)

Whay servo do you recommend for this then? Im ordering from TowerHobbies.

Foxy

Hitec 5645MG, it's not quick, but its strong and reliable. This is as cheap as I would ever go.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXUZ80&P=ML

cumminspower5.9

My Feedback: (4)

The problem with soldering on wires is I can't! I tried soldering deans connectors on a CAstle esc before and failed. I ended up twisting them, then throwing shrink tube on em lol.

FahrtAutoRC

That 's why I went with EC3's, soldering bullet connectors is the easiest thing in the world, and their power handling and ease of use are without a doubt the best I've found for our fleet

You want the best, fullest solid connection you can get too, and this is even more important with bigger power-hungry setups, like a 1/8 buggy

Foxy

There's a guide in the on road electric forum and loads of vids on youtube. Time you learned how to do this.

SyCo_VeNoM

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QznAAwL8rI[/youtube]

cumminspower5.9

My Feedback: (4)

Well I know how to solder, no doubt about that, it's just getting the solder to stick to the wires, and then get that to stick to the gold plated Deans connectors. PITA!

Foxy

I'll do you a video right now. Gimme an hour.

SyCo_VeNoM

is your soldering iron hot enough?
I know I had issues with some batteries getting the solder to hold cause the wires were so damn thick my soldering iron wasn't getting hot enough, and causing cold solder joints which would break. I had to get a soldering iron just for doing connectors that I think is a 275 watt iron
hey it can solder anything in 30 secs flat, and will blow out if on for a min lol

Max_Power

Soldering those should be a breeze. How hot of iron/gun are you using? Most the time I have seen people have "sticking issues" is when they don't have enough heat and are melting the solder with the iron and dripping it onto a cold joint. Sometimes it is easier to avoid overheating stuff with a hotter tool that can put the heat in quickly and not give it time to startdissipating into the rest of the components. I use a 100 w gun for almost everything except PCB even if it means I only have to touch the tip to the work for 1 second or so. You might also try tinning the pieces seperately then joining. One of those skills once you master you will never want to use a wire nut, butt connector, or twisting again. Not trying to down on you, just saying if you can't get the joint you described to take, its a matter of skills or heat level over the materials most likely. Flux never hurt either

Foxy

Just did video with 25W iron. Although I used fairly thin wire, I have no probs with 8 gauge on deans plugs either using this iron, just need to be a bit more patient.

Vid is uploading now, might take a while.

Foxy

Better late than never, watch in 720p...

How to solder deans with simple equipment, random commentary and sound effects. lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sySBPJnGlL4

cumminspower5.9

My Feedback: (4)

Well I can definitely tell you I have been doing it way wrong and the hard way lol. My solder kept falling off the connector... I didn't have a sturdy "stand" to hold everything and keep it in place. Thanks Foxy! I get it now! BTW, nice desk ha

SyCo_VeNoM

love how you almost forgot to say soldering iron in the list of required things