JohnP2

I've decided I'm going to return the 12 volt and get some Lh ipos. I need something reliable I can take to the track. If I were to stay with the stick packs,I would need probably eight of them if I'm at the track (in the event I flooded or something else goes wrong. I looked up 4S, and theAs re sems to be a cariety of them.Asnoted, I'm l

ooking for something reliable I can take to the track.

Ona side note, I had my greatesRC-day that I can remember. My son started the break-in of his new cr, ans it strted up kike a chap!

cummins driver

My Feedback: (31)

Do none of you run your starter box off of your vehicles battery? That would be the cheapest option no doubt, but not always as easy since you have to be close to your vehicle to do it. Also, I would imagine a deep cycle marine battery would be pretty good and you could keep it in the garage on a trickle charger for whenever it was needed.

Personally, I hate starter boxes. Thats just my opinion though [&:]

nitroexpress

Did you say that you have a Duratrax Onyx100 charger? It won't charge LiPo batterys.

eddieC

My Feedback: (2)

supertib

Some fuels you are fine to leave in the engine... What I see is that the methanol and nitro usually evaporate out before the engine fully cools down..just leaving behind the oil which protects the internals......

JohnP2

I do have that one, and was going to ask if I needed another charger for LiPos. The stick packs WILLstart it, but as mentioned the problem is I only get so many chances before they run out. I'm really anticipating the alignment pegs I ordered will help, as iwas extremely encouraged when my son started his (new) Losi 8ight on that single motor starter box, with the alignment pegs. Of course, that engine did not have near the compression as this OS does, based on what I saw at least.

How many LiPos would I need to start it, one or two? If I use two, I'm assuming double the power (one for each motor), or will one allowboth motors to reach terminal power?

eddieC

My Feedback: (2)

Methanol evaporates pretty quick, leaving just the nitro and oil. I'll guess you run that engine fairly often. If you park it for a couple weeks, you'll see a thin film of rust forming. The higher the nitro, the worse it gets. 

supertib

I have engines parked for over a year with no rust...... I own hundreds of engines dude, and have been burning nitro since since 1985..... methanol wont attract water if it evaporates out in the first few minutes.... I can open a engine 10 minutes after running it and the liquid inside is not flammable, the methanol and nitro are all gone.............

I can go to my shop and pop open a few engines and take pics..... I never run the fuel out of my engines and I don't use afterun.........My older type of fuel would end up gumming up the engines if left to long, but never any rust....

The worst rustiest engines I have seen are the the ones that were run dry and left unprotected...

to each their own, but I like leaving my engines wet as I feel the oil in the fuel protects them better then any afterun would

HerrSavage

I don't have as much experience as some, but based on what experience I do have, I don't think it makes much difference if you run it dry or not.. I used to do it all the time, now I try to leave some fuel in. I do use ARO when they sit for a long time. But all in all I've never noticed any of the above making a difference one way or the other...

echthelion

either way Two 2cell or One 4cell will get you the same power But your going to have to resolder your box because id not trust the tamiya connectors


PS. told ya so =P

eddieC

My Feedback: (2)

nitroexpress

If your stick packs are in good shape and of adequate capacity, you should be able to go a full day. In a pinch, they can be recharged at the track. But if you're set on ditching your charger and stick packs in order to go LiPo, good luck.

JohnP2

Good luck with what? I really wish folks on here would throw down some concrete advice instead of this "here's how I do it, anything else is wrong". I'm not calling you out specifically (you've typically been the type to help), but let's throw it on the table, sir. Why do you say "good luck"? Is it because you don't feel there will be much of a difference, or do you feelthe it's not worth it, or what? I'm quick to tout things Ihave experienced and enjoyed but have never (or least hope not) tell someone "Oh, you're gonna use an OS #6 plug on your Hyper 7? Good luck".

Once again, please do not think this is directed at you, sir. Instead it's directed at the overriding immensely immature and punk-like attitude that some of the sit-at-home experts get when things are not exactly as have done.

I do think (actually I know)the sitck packs can do the job. However, if there is a a much better way, I'm open to it, of course. It would have to turn the wheel twice as fast for twice as long for me to have any interest.

At the same time, I don't want to get a LiPo just because everyone says it is the best. I'm not interested in having "the best". Instead,I just want something that is twice as good as the 7.2 stick packs. When I hear folks have sitck-packs for years without problems, Iwonder "why the hell do people get LiPos then?'

As noted, IrealizinI am venting, but do not take toward you NitroExpressI I know words on forums such as this can come out wrong, and gettired of filtering through a"ll the :"I know more than the next guy" mentality and consequently, if one deviates fromwhat YOUdo....then it must be wrong

Yes I understand that I am still a "newbie", but know one thing: this is not my first rodeo. In factitwould not surpise me to find I have as much - if not more - knowledge on Nitro RCsthan some of the-mouths on herewhopop off at the drop of a hat but inreality onlyhave 1-2 carsand are better at teaching than doing! They really aren't RC experts, but they love playing one on the Internet. And instead of simply sayin "Here is what I think and why", their true insecure colors come out.

My son and I have accompished a lot in just one year, and I am CONFIDENT this will only exponentiate otver the next 12 months due to determination and passion we have for "the hobby".. All we can do is learn, and continue to learn....and then learn some more (it will never stop, as least I hope not). The best wayt to do this isby doing. However I will ALWAYSapproaxch "the hobby" with an open mind and not **** with someone's decision making just because I might do it differently or have another oponion.

It's just like the OSe. Someobne (don't remembver who) made a comment "If wheel spin is your thing this engine is for you." However, after I pleaded. this person could not back up his statement at all. ***? Why would someonehave such a bold opinon and not back it up with FACTS

Ugh!!!!! Okay, I feel better. Foxy, feel dree to delete this if you feel warranted. It's turned into a pissing match and I'm getting fed up. I will post my LiPo question in a seperatre thread. Hopefully folks won't have this "I told you so"...or."If you do this your nuts type responses" Just bemen (i.e. ACT like men))

supertib

LOL @ me being a customer !

my panties are not in a knot....I just think your info is not 100% correct ! if you ran some of the high grade fuels like I run you wouldn't have had the rust issues you have seen

and no I am not angry in any way shape or form.......I just don't agree with what you are saying ! and there are plenty of others like me who also agree...maybe because we are using more exotic oils in our fuels......

Also I live in Manitoba, its very humid here........not Hawaii humid, but definitely anything but dry........

Also I have to say the rustiest engines I have seen are from the guys who run them dry then use ARO......but that may also be because they were in humid climates or used crappy fuel, or only put ARO in before they hit my shop...

I also believe we are using more advanced oils in what we do then you aircraft guys do... We are running .21 sized engines up to 45 000 RPM and using fuels as low as 4.5 % oil and 30% nitro...My test Bonito is 2 seasons old, 17 gallons of use, and shows only 0.0005" wear on the crankpin......I have of course serviced the engine over its life, bearings, rods, sleeve honing and resizing, piston lapping etc...But the crankpin is still nearly like new and that engine hits 42 000 RPM all the time.....

And once again I am not angry or looking for a fight...I Am just pretty confident in in the results I have seen over the years working with hundreds if not thousands of engines...... I deal with people all over the globe in all kinds of climates......so i am not talking out my ass on this......Several other engine modders also agree with me too...... But they also like me use very high grade fuels with very high grade oils.....

The manufactures give out generalized instructions that they aim to cover the basics ...they can't possibly account for all the different possibilities and behaviors of the different fuels.......Sometimes what the factories recommend is not always the best advice....like they always recommend running high oil content fuels.... Nova recommends I think like 14% oil for their offroads...Under the assumption all that extra oil will protect the engine...when in reality all that extra oil usually ends up leading to engine damage from detonation....Most people do much better and have much better engine lifespans running what would be considered a low oil fuel by traditional standards.....Why is this ? well low oil fuels tune very easilly...you dont need to run them lean to get a crispy throttle response.... with high oil fuel the only way to make it run crispy is to lean the mixture down and increase temperature...which usually ends up leading to detonation..... Guys will chase the needles all day long on a high oil fuel, juggling between blubbery and too lean and never finding the sweet spot in between, as the tuning window on a high oil fuel is extremely narrow.........By contrast a low oil fuel has a very wide tuning window, and it can be run with a very rich mixture and still give crispy engine performance.....At a lower temperature..... Which results in guys finding the tune easier and not being being forced into leaning the engine down..... Also the oil in the fuel causes detonation, the more oil in the mixture the lower the threshold for detonation.....which is really a bad thing when the only way to get crispy throttle is to run lean because the oil content is so high...which results in damaged engines..... Over all my years modding engines I have seen far more damaged engines from detonation and high oil cheap fuel then I have seen worn engines being run on low oil fuel...............Yet the manufacturers would still recommend we run 15 % oil...... yet I would rather a novice run 8% oil then run 15% oil any day of the week, he will find tuning much much easier to figure out.......

echthelion

no hard feelings here tho i didnt want it to come off "punky" but its hard having a light hearted tone with typed words

its just with me its déjà vu i did the EXACT samething with chargers and batterys

JohnP2

no-no. You are fine, as everyone else on this thread. I am not venting at any one person. Mainly the concept. There are only 1-2 on here I see who constantly ofer NOTHING to this forum with shallow disagreements (and you are not one. Please noone take offense asmy frustration is toward thedeed, not any person. I'm over it anyway ;[-)

echthelion

no worrys

but i felt i should speak up because of my "i told you so"

anytime someone gets frustrated it can take away some of the fun of being on this fourm (been there)just wanted to make sure if it was me i somewhat cleared it up

supertib

But other then some hickups how are you liking truggy so far ?

As you know they are by far my favorite platform..... But to be any fun you need to run a big engine IMO...with a weak engine they are only so so, you need enough power to make them unstable...which a OS 25 has !!!!!

JohnP2

I am LOVINGit. The truggy turns on a dime (it's really low to the ground - I need a set of digital calipers).

The engine. Oh my! Flat out scary. People were coming out of their houses to check it out, as it is LOUD! I got it up to speeds where Isaid "that's enough" and quickly let off the throttle. At one point I did a wheelie, which i did not expect. Once Iget the starter box issues worked out, taking it to the track!!

supertib

they sure do handle good don't they !

Ttowntoolman

John, have you done anything to resolve your starter box power issues man? You never did answer one of my questions.......do you have it wired for 14.4 volts or just 7.2? If this was a kit and you had to hook it up and do wiring you may have hooked it up running with only 7.2 volts. Do the motors spin in your starter box when you put only one battery in it and try and activate it? (stick pack)

Should be wired so that positive (red) wire on battery #1 is conected to the starter box (red). Negative (black) wire on battery #1 should be looped to positive (red) wire on battery #2. Negative (black) wire on battery #2 should go to other source wire on bump box (black).

If your box is wired correctly, it will not function with just one stick pack hooked up.

I dont like stick packs because they were always dead or dying on me at the track. I always have three cars to start on my box(ofna chrome top) every time I go racing, I take the boys. This having to charge between heats got to be a hassle for me because there was always something else I should be doing. I already owned lipo batts so I dropped one of my 3 cell lipos into my box and have loved it since. The box became lighter to carry around and very dependable. Now my boys use it, I use it and a few other guys ask to use it as I leave it sitting next to the pits.

Be carefull with that OS, it been known to eat small pets if not kept on a leash! J/K